Can I drill straight through and replace the motor mount bolts with a bolt with a lock washer and nut on the bottom?

Back in rustville (milwaukee, wi) we'd simply grab a fat washer that had enough clearance to accept the bolt, and WELD that sucker all around..that'll teach it to move around on us!

a helie coil kit is made for such jobs, parts store, if its an ear of the casting theirs no water jacket in them

7jim, helicoils only save the threads, not the entire assembly from jiggin around. this cat Gus1957 is thinkin' bout drillin possibly into the block...this is madness- probably needs to throw some steel up in there to weld to-

wait ,it would be aluminium cast, block with steel stamped mount bolted in that got ripped out from block ,a threaded stud ripped out,jackrabbit starts off the line,you know we still do then try to re bolt boogered threads with all thread, soft as butter,pulled again now big booger up ,probally on a portion away from main casting or couldent get nut on back, ???aaa what think?

it will, steel bolts are stronger than aluminium, by far,if you can get in their ,maby a 90 * drill, no torch 800* melt torch 2100*

...keep your fire extinguisher handy~

oh wait you've got to have clearance for the nut, maybe 7Jim is onto something, wasn't thinking the engine, more the engine mount, which you can weld, build do whatever you want. The aluminum block is just a pain in the ass. Use a heli-coil as jim suggested if you don't have enough clearance for nut and bolt.

...but 'motor mount' is your concern, tons of wiggle room to make it right!

You can weld with aluminum/wires nearby, just use a sheet of steel as a blocker! throw a floorjack under the motor to jack it up to give yourself some clearance~