My fuel pump stays on after I turn the car off what could be the problem?
Is the key still in the ignition? If no, do any other accessories still work (IE: radio, turn signals, etc)? If yes, then I would check the ignition switch to see if it's shorting out & remaining "on", otherwise, check the fuel pump relay & make sure it's not stuck closed (you should only get continuity across one set of contacts on the relay - if you have continuity across both, then its stuck closed). If your relay turns out to be good, check to see if the relay's power circuit is energized with the car off. If so, the problem is either a short in the relay control circuit, or a bad ECU. If the relay's power circuit is not energized, then you're just going to have to start following the wire back from the pump to the relay, checking every so often to find out where power is shorting into the circuit.
This is an EXTREMELY dangerous situation, especially if you were to have an accident. Good suggestions have been made here, please do not ignore this problem.
There should still be an inertia-based cutoff switch, which I believe is located very near the pump itself, which is designed to cut power to the fuel pump in the case of an accident. That being said, I would still take care of the problem as soon as logistically possible.
Thanks guys for the replies, It happens when i turn the car off with no accessories on it doesn't have any patterns it just happens some days and then other days I'm always hearing it on when i turn the car off I can get the pump to shut off by just turning the key but not starting it, it always shuts off but its just a concern because before I had to rely on taking off the negative cable so it wouldn't kill my battery, could this fuel pump problem be a cause of why my car is sputtering? Thanks once again for the replies
It really sounds to me like you've got an intermittant short in the control circuit of the fuel pump relay. That would be the first place I'd look. On a side note, it might be easier to just remove the fuel pump relay when you stop the car instead of removing the negative terminal each time, as I'm sure you're probably doing a bit of damage to the terminal if you're fully retightening it, and leaving it loose isn't adviseable either, as it will affect a good many electrical systems in your car, as well as running the risk of damage from electrical arcing.
I have the negative cable connected completely now, where exactly would the relay be located? could it be a bad relay because some people have told me that the relay could be bad and if i replace it the problem would be fixed but I have noticed when the negative cable isnt tight my car seems to loose power. Its just an odd problem that I havent ever experienced an any of the other cars I've owned and the most recent problem that is happening is my revs sometimes will only go to 3000 rpms and at most 4500 and the car acts like its a rev limiter, I ve looked up on forums what it could be and I read it could be something with the HEP or map sensor, Im just at a lose with the Daytona it just seems like problem after problem, is this a common thing with these cars? Thanks again for the help!
The relay is located in a black rectangle box on drivers side underneath the hood it will have several relays in it along with fuses I'd replace the relay it only costs about 10 dollors at your local parts store.
ACTUALLY I AM HAVING THIS VERY SAME PROBLEM,I HAVE A 1992 CROWN VICTORIA AND I TOOK IT TO BE SMOGED AND WHEN I GOT HOME AND TURNED MY CAR OFF THE FUEL PUMP WAS STILL RUNNING AND DRAINED MY BATTERY. SO NOW I HAVE TO GO TO MY TRUNK WHERE THE INTERTIA BUTTON IS AND WHEN I WANT TO DRIVE I PRESS IT AND WHEN IM DONE DRIVING I HAVE TO SMACK IT TO MAKE IT POP UP TO SHUT IT OFF... WHAT CAUSED THIS TO HAPPEN AND SHOULD I JUST GET A NEW FUEL PUMP? AND RELAY? OR BOTH? OR HELP...
every electric motor in a car has a relay and a relay is nothing but a switch to turn the fuel pump motor off and on. Inside the relay has a set of points that opens and closes and what happens is the points get carbon on the surface and they stick together. that's when you smack it then it opens the points and shuts off the fuel pump.
If I take my relay switch out and the pump is still on what can it be? the key is turned off out no ass on it only goes off when I take the + battery cable off but my truck has a problem ideling and staying on please help me?!??
i have problem too. when i turn on ignition switch, a fuel always keep on without off. what is my problem?? please help me.
a normal car should switch on then after few sec, it switch off. what the problem i have now. what should i do? any answer for auto parts? sorry for my bad english. i still learning. bruneian
My Town & Country minivan 2011 just got a new fuel pump and it stays on when you shut the key off I know that's not right maybe it's a relay I am going to take it back and tell them to fix this or my battery might die from this being on
I, too having problems with fuel pump relay. I have a 2013 Chrysler town n country. First we were told by Auto Zone rep, that it was our alternator. We changed it n battery was still being drained. It all boiled down to the fuel pump relay. After turn vehicle "off", keys removed from ignition, we could hear the fuel pump still running. WE removed the fuse, and it's still running. Can you please explain to me, (A middle-aged female with NO vehicle verbage/repair knowledge) what problem my van has and a solution for it, please. And like the people here in Hawai'i says, "Mahalo" ( Thank You)....Ro-Ro
Lehua_71, if you ever get an answer, please post it up. Someone I know is having the same issue. I removed the relay and fuse to the fuel pump, in a 2013 Grand Caravan, but the pump still constantly runs.
There has to be some sort of common issue with these vehicles. Something is causing a short in the fuel pump wiring. Dodge needs to recall these vehicles.
my 2012 dodge caravan is doing it too
Mine is doing the same thing. I also have a 2012 Dodge minivan. When I cut my Van off, the pump continue to run until I remove the 20 amp fuel fuse. If I forget to remove the fuse, after about an hour or so, it drain my battery.
Jonnnyboyjr2 dodge makes a 78 part that bypasses the 1200 Modular dodge knows it’s a problem my cost me 280 with parts and time and my mechanic
Three days ago my 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan started suffering battery drainage due to something running while the ignition is off. It takes about 1-2 hrs to completely drain. You can hear something running and can feel vibrations only on the fuel tank... I checked the fuel pump for a relay and could not find a relay (only a fuse). Pulled the fuse and nothing changed. I stumbled across this "FUEL/DSL LIFT PUMP" fuse (attached photo) and I pulled it, then whatever was running stopped immediately. I replaced the said fuse and it started running again... All of this was done with my keys in my back pocket. I'll be replacing the fuse to see if that will correct the issue and test when I don't have places to be :)
I did a little digging and found that there was a recall for this but ONLY for 2011 - 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokees and Dodge Durangos. Not only can the fuel pump relay stay on but in some cases, it can shut off causing the vehicle to stall while operating and resulting in a crash! Do be careful out there guys! Apparently, no one has died or been injured enough to warrant an expansion of the recall to other models. I'm a little perturbed by all this now as it has been going on and off again for me for about 4 years. Here are some links that may be helpful: NHTSA's Investigation on this matter: https://www.nhtsa.gov/vehicle/2012/DODGE/GRAND%252520CARAVAN/VAN/FWD#inve stigations •••••••••••• Some guy showing you how to make a bypass for the relay: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ncYo3QduGU •••••••••••• These guys that may have several different options to solve the issue: https://www.verticalvisions.com/tipm-fuel-relay-solutions.html#symptoms •••••••••••• The R09 Recall and Dealer Service repair Instructions (PDF): http://www.verticalvisions.com/documents/CCI10262015_00000.pdf •••••••••••• Hopes this helps some of you guys!
Update: Replaced the "FUEL/DSL LIFT PUMP" fuse (20A) about a week ago. So far, so good. No problems with battery drain or hearing a motor running after ignition shut-off. I hear it's only a temporary fix to a deeper issue, but I'll take it for now!
Thank you for the update
This is happening with my 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan. I had it checked out. Wires were all good no apparent shorts after testing... hooked up to cars computer and it had 127 codes. Cleared codes. Van has ran perfect for a week.... now I’m back to square one. I just unplugged the negative battery terminal to suffice for the night. Has anyone else had this happen? I’m going to opt for the TIPM by pass on its next trip to the shop.
There is no user serviceable fuel pump relay on these. It's part of the totally integrated power module(TIPM). A new one retails for about $1000. Chrysler sells a external relay kit for less than $20. A good mechanic should be able to install it in about an hour. The part number is CBWP R091 AA.
