Voltage regulator

What is voltage car running at battery? With loads on and running?

I don't know. I just know when I had new alternator but a bad battery once I got the car started it did not do the flashing once I change the battery and the serpentine belt now it does the flashing thing all the lights in the entire car. What's the car is warmed up and you have all the lights off in the car it won't surge like that but once you turn the headlights on it starts to do that flickering thing

But even that only happens sometime

It's weird because before the altanator started making noise and I changed it it did not do this. And even after I changed it the car still done good. I just had to jump it to start cause bad bat. Now everything is new. Everything surges. I had to use it to jump my dada truck it was doing all that but when I hooked jumper cables up to my car in his truck my car started acting normal but the minute I took the cables off the light started surging again

Did you change alternator with battery hooked up? If not, what cable did you take off to disconnect battery?

Did you get the correct amp alternator?

Did you clean all connections to make sure you didn’t have voltage drop?

Yes I got all right stuff and at first I forgot to unhook bat but when I realized my mistake I unhooked all connections to bat, positive and neg

Got a read out of everything from auto zone after cause I thought I got a bad alt but all reading a good

Any electrical work always disconnect the negative terminal and make sure it will not touch battery post during work. I have seen too many circuits, computers and components damaged due to this error.

I know it was a mistake. Sparks are what reminded me. Just don't get why it dud not do it when there was a bad bat. And why it won't do it sometimes after car has run for awhile.

Chrysler and dodge vehicles are sensitive to the correct alternators. I am not a supporter of Duralast electrical parts. I get an OEM part. These come with a price but you get what you pay for.

I don't use cheap part. I got one of the more expensive one it's nothing wrong with the alternator I had all that check I still have the readout

The cheap alt where well under 100 buck the one I got cost almost 200 after core

I just replaced a Dodge Grand Caravan and it was $339 after core but it was the correct alternator and it communicated correctly with ECM. Owner was impressed with horsepower improvement and accessory functionality. Load test it didn’t even budge a tenth of a volt. Again, you get what you pay for.

So is there any way to fix the VR in my PCM

Resolder or replace PCM once you rule out battery, alternator and wiring. Remember you sparked the wiring. Did you ruin the “new” parts?

And could I get a used one from junk yard and put in my car without having to have anything programed

There is actually a company in Florida that repairs these boards and sends them back very quickly. I feel it is a better option and less expensive in the end

It is not the bat and alt I don't know how many time.i have to sat that both are new and top of line

One spark is all it takes. I could send you diagnostic invoices for years with this issue of DIYers trying to fix their own issues and frying parts or creating a partial working part that fried part of a circuit. Experience has seen it. Just trying to help you not to spend unnecessary dollars. Good luck

No I am thankful for all you have said other then going back to alt and bat. They are not and of good Audi and have been tested

Keep me updated on what you find.

Will do