94 Topaz Lower Control arm

I know your post is old, but to anyone else this may help... #1 I would recommend visiting "www.tempotopaz.com". #2 Go buy a used Haynes or Chilton Tempo/Topaz manual OR an original dealer Ford Shop manual is EVEN BETTER!!! #3 I'm going to assume that you have already removed the balljoint end from the hub/steering knuckle with a pickle fork... otherwise that could be putting a huge amount of tension on the bolt in the frame!!! ;) #4 I have had the same problem as you, you just need to wedge a decent sized pry bar(or better yet a crow bar!!!) between the frame and bolt and give 'er a few times... :) If that doesn't work, hit it HARDER with a hammer (and be prepared to replace that bolt, as it will likely have stripped threads from the removal process, plus who really wants to reuse 20 year old hardware that your life is literally counting on...) So again, any strong piece of metal that will fit and gives hopefully 2+ feet of leverage, (more length is better)... as long it will not break from the force of prying on it... Just watch what (or how) you're wedging it against something, preferably the frame, because the tranny & relatively vulnerable transmission pan is right beside the driver side control arm... ;) #5 You can try hitting it with some more penetrant, (but really to be very effective, (that might require waiting hours or days for bolts that are rust bond/welded... (hopefully a non-flammable kind) because in the next step, I'd clean the bolt off of any penetrating oil, use a sprayer from a garden hose to get as much off as possible heat the bolt a bit with a propane torch, (nothing really high heat like oxy or you're liable to melt something or do some damage, NOT GOOD!!!) ;) #6 I'm again going to assume you might not have adequate impact extensions to maneuver them into place over the bolt head inside that unholy small space in the frame, but if the bolt truly is rust bonded to the frame... I suggest purchasing said extensions, preferably an impact rated ball joint extension, which has saved my ass on numerous occasions (or you can just buy a whole impact set with one in it, but impact kits sometimes range from $30-40 on sale for a small low quality kit to well over $1000...My recommendation on that is to buy one with a lifetime/exchange warranty if you want to keep costs reasonable, but if you spend the cash on a crappy quality set and it breaks outside the warranty period, you'll be SOL... This happens quite often FYI... OR if you want to skip the fancy impact extensions, using at least a 2 foot long 1/2" breaker bar should be pretty cheap to break the rust bond... (worked for me after a bit of waiting, because I couldn't find my 1/2" balljoint impact adapter at the time)...there's 3/4" breakers too, but having fun fitting them in that small frame hole... Cutting it is another option too...with a dremel or something that would fit in there, but I'd use that as a last resort...and only after you can actually move the head of the bolt with a socket... which honestly should just require a pry bar and hammer after the bond is broken... :) Hope this helped someone... (it applies in principle to many other cars too, just use some common sense when prying against things... like making sure its not plastic, or weak metal,etc...) but if you're truly stuck after all of that, just call any mechanic and ask what he would do? :) Good Luck!

I did exactly what you said in #1 joined that group they helped, after reading what they said job was done in about 10min. Thanks for posting though maybe someone else will read this. Thanks

No problem, glad you worked it out! :) ~Matt

Next time, remove the inner pivot before you remove the swaybar bolt and that will keep the inner pivot from binding on the control arm