ON THE FREEWAY MY EL CAMINO RUNS N QUITS RUNS N QUITS AT 60 MPH

I would bet that you are not getting enough fuel, the float system and or fuel pump just cant keep up with the demand at high speeds. Its hard to say which one so If it was me I would change both. New filter and blow out the fuel lines as well.

Sounds right, the other possibility has to be baked wiring and what circumstance exists for ignition parts to fail. it would lose spark. you could rig a test if the fuel idea checked out ok with correct float level and idle mixture, fuel volume and pressure, no obstruction. at 60 and that RPM

While you're in there eliminate vacuum leaks. note any other symptoms that also exist whether they seem related or unrelated.

EGR works at cruise, see if that opens too far or sticks open.

I knew one similar to this once where the content of the fuel was waxing the guys pump valves, additives really did not mix and emulsify, the alcohol would clean the valves in the pump, then the other liquids would wax them, it was worse as the summer months made his "tank mix" vaporize in the line, and his pressure decrease, then a volume problem comes and goes. 3 pumps later, The space amoeba was drained from the tank and separated out in a pickle jar. carb spray in a can cleaned the pump again, fresh Gas from a fuel station found through (puregas.com) in this area listed by state, then street and city was found and the problem stayed gone, and every person who added fuel to the vehicle was advised.

Another one with similar symptoms that came and went under load on the freeway was just the simple module, pickup coil, cap- rotor, wires and plugs changed back to A/C delco. (a part at a time, mind you, because the guy had his own ideas) He eventually had it cranking but no spark, and actually inspected the parts, found evidence at every step in the process.............................................................................. So, really, you need to verify, be prepared to test, run the test when it acts up, and then decide.

I am going to put a elec. fuel pump on give that a try & blow lines I tried in second gear 4 speed & it did it at about 30 mph. it had a complete tune up just a 2 days ago it did it than too a macanic at his shop said it needs a fuel sencer I dident think they had sencers back than

Does he mean sender? The sender has a tubular shaped filtration "sock" ....with age, not immersed, they can get brittle or even crumble, so you use shop air and blow back into the tank looking for resistance or partial blockage. Newer designs use a different style of filtration and the sock can be replaced. The old ones lasted forever under the conditions they were designed for. Fuel is different now. you could still need to drain and inspect the content, run pressure and volume tests first (complete tune -up operation) then look for restriction at that part of the fuel sending unit (sender). A/C delco FLS1093, or try www.opgi.com. Inspect your tank, where the straps hold it, etc. clean it out, or coat the inside or repair/replace it as you see the need for it. Once it actually fails a test that is actually run, you can take the necessary steps.

If you find damage and degredation of the parts, you may need to protect against ethanol (ethanol shield) is one touted additive I heard of. Other vehicles with a hose in the tank have simply degraded the delivery hose. In my experience. look at how yours is currently running parts to complete the task, in case there was some past change by a previous person. I have seen grinder pumps used trying to go on the cheap, they make an awful noise, do not last long, and regulating their output...locating and wiring them, protecting them for safety, by that time and $... you could do it right.

twice

I FIGERED IT OUT BLEW OUT THE AIR CLEANER POCKED HOLES IN AIR CLEANER TESTED IT OUT RAN GREAT IT WAS NOT GETTING AIR BOUGHT A NEW AIR CLEANER DRIVING IT EVERY WHERE NOW TROUBLES SOLVED

You could pick the 7th post as helpful, the simple idea of inspecting all the parts in use for obvious problems and restoring those choices to A/C delco parts. A "full tune up" includes an airfilter. At every oil change, inspecting it is recommended. The A/C delco parts work flawlessly, the longest. You can get them if you ask at many parts stores, or even have them drop shipped to your front door. That's how I help friends who expect eternal flawless operation. But never have any money. Their expense "figers" out to be lees as a result.

Excuse me, (less)

I think you should try checking out the distributor. Sometiimes the contacts become faulty.

He already decided his airflow was completely blocked. at least that was the story even after a "full tune up" and several posts about why he couldn't just restore it to correct a/c delco parts and save time and money

ITS THE HEI DISTUBETR MODULE THATS THE CAUSE OF ALL THAT TROUBLE IT GAVE OUT WOULD NOT START ENGINE I WILL GET ONE ON MONDAY TO REPLACE OLD ONE NO ONE GOT IT RIGHT I AM SURE ITS SOLVED NOW

OOH THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP GAVE ME IDEAS TO LOOK AT A LOT OF HEADS ARE BETTER THAN ONE

you could select the seventh post then, about restoring the module, being sure you have an ac delco part, sometimes the other parts can be best redone along with. The resistances in the parts can add up. so having quality ones seems to reduce them damaging one another, or failing one byone. You could help this thread by picking the posting that sends you there. nice to hear you had it act up enough to find the problem.