Ok guys I'm planning to built a custom project F-body and i was wondering if the stock 10 bolt could handle 600RWHP ?
13 Answers
It could but i wouldnt trust it. I would go ahead and spend the extra money and get a Moser 12 bolt and not have ta worry bout it. Im pushin around 530rwhp and broke my 10 bolt twice before getting the Moser. No problems since.
I thought about getting the Miser 12 bolt, but as I looked into it I found out it probably wouldn't fit on my Project car, which BTW is a 1992 Firebird, I found someone had welded a 12 bolt onto the frame but I didn't want to have to do that :-{ The stock GM 10 bolt 7.5 can be broken with 300lbs of Torque so I figured Upgrading ro 8.5 would at least be able to withstand at least 550 to the wheels.
Sorry about the Mispell, I thought maybe adding Moser Axles would help it along with a new auburn 3:73 or 3:23 gears. I figure as long as I don't put Slicks on it It wont break. What do you think ?
the weak point of a 10 bolt is where the axle tubes flex at the pumpkin. you can strengthen them by welding braces/brackets at the top and bottom of the axle tubes at the pumpkin. then get upgrade the internals.
That may work, i would try to upgrade to a 31 spline axle as well. And as for gear ratio it all depends on what you plan on doing with it and what trans you have. with only a 3 speed auto such as the TH-350 3.73's have excellent low end but top end is terrible. 3.42's are a pretty good all around gear.
I'm thinking about getting a Performance Built 700R4 Overdrive Automatic, And While I do want to have powerful Acceleration I'd like to take it to the drag strip with some 18" Torque thrust wheels, and be able to go 80mph on the highway while doing under 3000 RPM. I'm not 100% sure which one fits that profile best.
With that set up and with what your wanting to do with it I would recommend going with a ratio somewhere around 3.73. I'm running 4.10's with a Monster stage 4 4L60E and a 3000 stall converter and at 80mph I run about 2900-3000 RPM
Short answer? No. Not for very long, anyway, unless you're very lucky. Also, unless I'm much mistaken, 7.5" and 8.5" gears are not interchangeable. I can pretty much guarantee you'll be upgrading to a built 12-bolt or a Ford 9-inch at those power levels. Of course, you could run the stock rear end until it goes "boom," and delay the upgrade at least that long.
I can build it for you. We specialize in gm tranny's
So if with the 3.73 I'll be turning 3000 RPM at 80 MPH, where would the 3.23 put me ?
moser 12 bolt or 9" is where you need to be if it is truely making 600 rwhp. what kind of power plant are you putting together. im 501 to the wheels 10.13@131
in my opinion the 12-bolt is the better choice , if you are racing it 4.11:1 or 4.56:1 . Use Strange Axles Weild wheels. McReary makes nice street legal slicks as well. Have fun. Also suggest ladder bars and and a good 6 point cage to get the weight transfer off the line right to the rear axle. All that power isn't any good if you can't get it to the ground.
Well I'm gonna start with a new aluminum 350 block and work my way with forged internals, Lunati cam, 28lb injectors, 1.6 roller rockers, SLP TPI Intake, 52mm throttle body, hypertech chip, LS1 exhaust manifolds, ( Needed because Headers usually aren't legal here in California and won't pass smog emissions ) SLP Ram Air Cold air intake, Magnaflow full Cat-back Exhaust 3" all the way with twin dual exhaust tips with an angle cut, plus dual Magnaflow catalytic converters, stage 3 700R4 and so on.