why is my heater not working after putting in heater resister and heater blower motor ?
7 Answers
Do you mean the blower motor not running ?? Are you getting power at the resistor ?? Is the motor getting a good ground ?? It might also be the 3 speed electrical switch for the resistor
Thank you all for responding back to me. Answer to question 1. Yes the water hoses is getting hot. Far as temperature, I don’t know because I don’t have my oil pressure Water Volt triple 3 gauge set up yet. Answer to question 2. I just put in a new resistor and new blower motor. Yes it heat only. I test it with my multimeter and I go a Ohm sounds when I tested heater resistor. Answer to question 3. Yes, the blower is not running at all. Thank you for all your advice. T67
Thank you all for responding back to me. Answer to question 1. Yes the water hoses is getting hot. Far as temperature, I don’t know because I don’t have my oil pressure Water Volt triple 3 gauge set up yet. Answer to question 2. I just put in a new resistor and new blower motor. Yes it heat only. I test it with my multimeter and I go a Ohm sounds when I tested heater resistor. Answer to question 3. Yes, the blower is not running at all. Thank you for all your advice. T67
Hello, Someone also mention to me to change my turn signal. Because my breaks light don’t work when I hit the brakes and hazards work in the front of the car instead of both area. It could be shorten , or an bad ground somewhere. Thank you very much.
Keep going, you'll find the problem but it sounds like you need to go back to basics. It's great you are saving a 66 from the scrap yard. I had a green, 3 speed, 326 Custom as my first car. For your heat, double check the fuse for the blower, the dash switch, and the resistor if you are not getting power to the motor. You can also check the motor by directly connecting it to a 12V source like a spare battery. If it does not run, it is the problem. If it does, then check if the switch works by setting your meter to ohms and its leads to the input side of the switch and. sequentially, to the output terminals as you move the switch through its positions. If that checks good, then measure the resistors. None should read 0 on your meter and should be successively higher resistance. As for your brake lights, there is a switch that is mounted to your brake pedal linkage under the dash. It may not be adjusted so it activates when the brake pedal is depressed or it may be bad. If the switch is working, then make sure your bulbs are good. Look out for corrosion in the lamp sockets as well. I believe the bulbs have 2 filaments - one is the brake and one is the tail light. Hazards are the same bulb and the turn signals and hazard flasher run off of a relay under your dash. Common failure and easy to replace. Good luck bringing that 66 back to life!
Sorry, I thought you had a 66 but I see now it is a 67. Both cars are the same except for trim items so troubleshooting will also be the same.
First of all I would like to say thank you very much to each of you who had responds with their expertise on my issue. Yesterday after work, I went out to the garage to do some more testing on the blower motor and resister. First thing. I used my test light to check the fuse to make sure that was working. When I tests it. The test lighter lighted up. That mean the fuse is good? Correct me if I am wrong. Secondly, I turn the key on without starting up the car and cut the heat on high. I went to the front of the car and taken off the wire harness to the resistor to check if any juice was coming through it with the test lighter and it “didn’t” light up. I took off the relay wire harness near the fire wall and tested that end with the test light and it lighted up on that end. Is that telling me that I need a new heater wire harness? I thank you guys for all the advice you’re giving me. T67