Ford ranger 1999 is running hot ...I changed the hose to the radiator...stll leaking from the bottom of the radiator..I'm at the stop leak phase..now how long will it take to stop leaking so I will know that the stop leak is working..and if not what can be my next step?

May be your head is cracked

If this happens to you: Pressure tested your radiator cap. Then check that your thermostat is operating properly. If its not opening soon enough that can make the engine run hotter than it should. If the radiator cap does not open at the pressure it should, to let the coolant into the overflow tank, the cooling system can overpressurize and that pressure will CREATE a leak to let the pressure out. And it will leak from whatever point can hold the least pressure-which can be anywhere, including the radiator and heater core. If the cap and thermostat check out ok, or if teheyhave to replaced, you may still have a leak afterwards. If you can't SEE a very localized obvious point where wetness is coming out or see a leak STAIN from the upper tank, or in the finned area, there are several common ways the leak can be from the bottom tank itself. One is past the drain plug, Another is from one of the transmission cooler fittings ( which the radiator commonly will have, even if its a manual transmission vehicle) the third is a leak that may be coming from the gasket that seals the lower tank WHERE ITS CRIMPED ONTO to the rest of the radiator*, next is past where the radiator hose is clamped on and the last would be the lower radiator hose fitting where its connected to the lower tank. . *On MANY radiators the tanks are not soldered on, but are MECHANICALLY attached using a gasket to seal them against pressure. If you can narrow the leak down to an area where one of the TANKS is crimped onto the rest of the radiator THAT type of leak can OFTEN be fixed by carefully recrimping the tabs to get a better seal. I had to do that with the radiator on my Bonco2 about 10 years ago and its held pressure since then. I used a vise grip type adjustable pliers and adjusted it JUST ENOUGH to close ALL the tabs BY A VERY SMALL AMOUNT MORE than they had been-and using practically no pressure on the wrench. To do that it helps to mark or tape the screw adjustment so that it doesn't change while you're doing the entire tank. On mine, after I did one complete round on both tanks and reinstalled the radiator, I found that when it reached full pressure it still had a leak, but it was a MUCH slower leak than before, so, I went back and recrimped the tabs a tiny bit more and that stopped the leak completely,