Stalling out and wont stay running. Acts like it wants to run but gets choked out.

most modern cars have a fuel cut off sensors on diferent parts of the body it might be one of them playing up?

Do u know where they r located at on these types of trucks side of engine or back plugged into fuel pump

Mine was the fuel filter. Replaced it and no more problem.

Ford is the only domestic company to use those fuel cut switches. My 1990 also did the same thing and it turned out to be a combination of the fuel filter and pump. The dirty filter destroyed the pump. Who replaced your filter?

the collision shops maintenance and diagnostic center changed it. my pump is working i disconnected the hoses from the injectors and it pumps out gas when the key is turned on. I disconnected the map sensor and it will idle but still dies when it goes into gear. I have fuel puddling up on top of the right fuel injector. I am thinking that one of the injectors has something inside of it or it went out and the fuel was not getting out like it should, it was holding gas in the driver side injector. So I got a new one but with the cold weather as i was putting it back together one of the connectors that the return fuel line screws into broke. So i am on a hold up till I can find another housing for the injectors.

My pump worked also. Just because its putting out fuel doesn't mean its enough pressure. My truck was putting out 8 psi at idle its supposed to be around 10-13. A minimum of 9 and Max of 13 anything outside of that is not ok. Do a pressure test once you get it back together.

its putting our 10 psi on the fuel. could it possibly be an oxygen sensor? I am just out of thoughts. What is connected or is anything connected to the passenger side quarter panel or the front part of the truck? It ran for a week just fine after the wreck but I drove it for 20 min maybe after I got it back from the repair shop and it sputtered and died on me. Could there be something that they left off? Such as a ground wire or something on that side of the truck?

Yea the plug that controls the electronic timing in the distributor is on the passengers side on the firewall. What is the fuel pressure when its in gear? Could be quite a few different things, including a coincidence that it happened after the shop.

Ok and idk what it is It won't stay running to be able to get a pressure. And yea I think it almost has to be something they have left off or did when doing the repair. Before it went in you could not tell it was in a wreck when u were inside and driving it. But I drove it maybe 5 miles before it started stalling out and not running.

None of this works

Got it fixed a couple weeks Ago. The sending unit went out it was putting out half what it's suppose to but was holding pressure. I replaced the sending unit and fuel pump

would your truck begin to idle high before it died out?

My truck has begun to do this and i do not know if i should take the tank back off and replace the assembly to the fuel pump

Not really it more or less choked it's self out unless you were giving it has in order to keep it running at all you had to 2 foot it.

I've changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, EGR solenoid and valve and now I am stumped beside changing the sending unit.

it was the injector connectors on mine the injectors would pop up..i would just have to push them back down

What was the verdic? Im having exactly same problem,new pump filter regulator cap rotor cam and crank sensor plugs wires

Daniel email me at alonso.escamilla89@gmail.com i have the same issue please help, truck runs for 20 min and shuts off just had injecotrs replaced with used ones i think its the same issue

OK people, I have a 1993 GMC K1500 with a 5.0L and had the intermittent 2 footed get home issue described here. Changed everything from the fuel pump, lines, and filter all the way up to the throttle body. I ended up with a slight different issue with the flooding out at that point that some of you describe. Then I went and changed the Throttle Position Sensor. Nothing. Same problem. I was totally perplexed. As I was staring at the throttle body it dawned on me. No one ever mentions the fuel pressure regulator that the injectors are sitting on!! So, I popped off the new injectors I put in and changed that regulator with a new one. Not the kit to rebuild but a whole new unit. $20 difference in price. The thing runs perfect now. That is the one thing no one ever mentions but it is the one thing that worked as soon as I put the new one in. It was an issue with improper regulation of the quantity of fuel to the injectors and it was flooding the thing out. Hope that helps!! :)

I have a 98 gmc searria 4×4 i checked fuel pressure it was under i changed fuel pump and fuel filter and its still starving for fuel what to do it starts with starting fluid

I have a fully restored 1991 Chevy Suburban that has fresh engine transmission rear end paint interior and I have left nothing undone or unrefreshed. About 3 months ago it quit running cold in Houston and had to have it towed back to Dallas. For all parts below I acquired all parts thru O'Reillys Auto Parts. Hereth begins the diagnostics, no CHECK ENGINE LIGHT was produced. Similar issue occured 3 years ago on an older engine ,same truck. At that time it was a bad EGR VALVE. I had bypassed the vacuum source and it ran fine. So I replaced with AC DELCO EGR Valve and that fixed the issue. That was then this is now!!!!!!!! So isolating the EGR did not fix it this time. Symptoms are: starts, runs fine, until warmed up and then the engine will lose all power and act as if its starving for fuel. Starting there the original tank had broken plastic windage tray baffles in it so I replaced the fuel tank with new tank and replaced with a new pump and hanger assy. No change. Next, took the car to local Chevy Dealer that has several old school techs still working. After running their tests they figured the ECM was failing. So I purchased a reman'd unit thru O'Reillys Auto Parts. Swapped the CAL unit and reinstalled it. No change. Forget the dealer, they were useless. Next, read when MAP sensor can cause this similar condition, replaced MAP Sensor. No change. Next, replaced EGR, EGR sensor. No change. Next, replaced distributor. I had found traces of surface rust on reluctor on distributor shaft so pickup coil maybe effected. New distributor comes with new ESC electronic unit, pickup coil, cap & rotor, also. No change. Next, read somewhere that the fuel pressure regulator diaphram if split could cause flooding. rebuilt throttle body unit, rebushed it and boiled it out and added rebuild kit and brand new Borg Warner injectors. No change. Next, read somewhere that Engine Oil Pressure sender (behind and below the distributor) since it serves and oil pressure guage sender and fuel cutoff switch in case of loss of oil pressure, replace it with new to eliminate that. No change. Next, read somewhere that bad ground wire on Thermostat housing can cause ECM issues. Checked it, cleaned it off, verfied that contact wanhers are all steel and attract a magnet, reinstall the ground wire. No change. Next, read somewhere that Engine Coolant Temp Sensor if malfunctioning could cause the ECM to think the engine is at -40 deg F in dflt mode. This would make the IAC Valve stay or go closed as if ewngine were in cold start mode. This would cause flooding since the injectors are receiving signals from the ECM that its a cold start so needs little air and lots of fuel. Replace dhte driver side (left side) Coolant Temp Sensor (1 wire pigtail) unit. No change. BUT BUT BUT, I forgot that there is a 2nd Temp Sensor (2 wire pigtail) unit mounted very front of intake manifold just to the front of the thermostat housing area. I pulled it and replaced it. BINGO!!!!! Problem resolved. Now I know why ODBI only lasted a couple of years. Its all about luck. Yes..... if I had started with the coolant temp sensor first I would have gotten off cheap. But all items replace can potentially cause this symptom.

You might want to spray some carburetor cleaner over the injectors and see if the engine sounds better, if so check with a flashlight and light up behind the injector to see if the spray is full or semi full with some drops coming out.... If so replace the faulty injector.

Mine is doing the same thing and I checked my injectors last week and my #6 injector has moist dirt around it and none of the others do. That's my next replacement.

Has anyone else figured anything else out that helps?

I'm thinking of replacing the vehicle. I grew up with "Don't throw good money after bad."

I am having a simular issue - I have noticed that usually shutting off the engine and coasting for about ten seconds then restarting seems to recycle something and ot runs better most times after that. I have changed temp sensors, replace throttle position sensor, replaced fuel regulator, cleaned throttle body asy. and ignition module inside the distributor. Flashed a check engine light for the first time yesterday...

I have this same issue with a 2000 Yukon, just spent $299 plugs and wires... no help.

I have a 1988 GMC C1500 V8 5.7L EFI. Having the same issues. starts, half the time idles super rought then kills. As soon as its out into gear it kills. I replaced the fuel filter, fuel line and fuel pump. Injectors look to be spitting good and all hoses seem to be good. IDK where to start, everyone thats been buying sensors and what not dont seem to be having any luck, I see someone solved there problem similar to this with a new fuel pressure regulator. Anyone have any different tips?

I don't have an answer but heres my problem .. 1989 gmc K1500 5.7 i'm driving around corner from Lowes and it stalls out like no gas looking at the gauge it seems low I buy gas and pour in gas tank usually kicks over it didn't so find myself pour in gas into the efi body to get it parked .. Summer time 95 outside , I go back to it 6 hours later it starts up I drive it home .

Next day it begins to stall I fill it up new filter new pump drive about a week same thing starts to happen , I drop tank again change pump replace sock , check plugs replace 4 fine for another few days same-thing after warm up stalls out like no gas , putts and then dies until I restart it .

There are so many people with the same issue with no one answer. Have changed the fuel tank, pump and filter. Changed the injectors, rebuilt the TBI and the MAP sensor, as well as the temp cooling sensor on the front of the motor. There is no code given. The truck runs rough, stalls cold or hot. Starting the truck it is hard to start and once it starts, the truck wants to stall when slowing down to turn or stop. Have use both feet to keep it running. The motor sounds rough while driving. Seems to not getting enough gas. Getting ready to change the regulator under the injectors. Hoping this helps, have spent so much time ND money just to get it running again.

Hi, same probs w/ my 94 yukon. Have u replaced the sending unit for the fuel pump? Let me know if changing the regulator works for you. Thanks

I had the same issue and then we replaced the distributer and that fixed it

I have a '92 ford ranger, It'll sit there and idle just fine but when I put it in gear and put a load on it it chokes itself out. I've replaced the egr valve, Fuel injectors, Fuel pump, Fuel filter and throttle position sensor and it still does the same thing. Will idle just fine but when I go to drive it and put a load on it, It just loses all power. I need some help?

Ford ranger try fuseable link

Ok I have a 1994 GMC 1500 sierra 5.0 305 it dies in gear sound awesome in idle but dies have changed the tps,the EGR Vacuum Solenoid the Idle Air Control Valve , TBI Base Gasket,Fuel Pressure Regulator,Throttle Body Rebuild Kit,be for it went out as u would accelerate it would lose power now u start it it runs awesome and dies in less on the gas u put it in gear it dies in less u to foot it need help any one care to pick at it ?

danddraves..... Did you ever discover an answer for your problem with the 94 GMC 1500 that got it running? With all the repeats of the same identical problem on multiple GMC vehicles from multiple years and "no fix" for the problem, I'm beginning to believe that GMC intentionally placed a built in flaw in the ECU.

Win a million dollars. Well at least win the eternal gratitude of all the GMC owners in the country who are experiencing this same identical problem with virtually "all" GMC vehicles. Find the solution to why the same problem consistently occurs.

A year ago, I had a problem with my 95 GMC wanting to stall out when warmed up, then wouldn't restart until it cooled off for several hours. I ultimately ended up rebuilding my distributor and replaced the ignition pickup coil. Problem solved. Now I am having an issue with it wanting to stall right after its started. I have some diagnosis to perform.

I use to be a big fan of Haynes and Chilton's manuals, but neither was a substantial help in trying to solve my problem. As for my replacing the distributor, it got the truck up and running and at least drivable. However there are still a couple of short gremlins somewhere that I'm going to have to chase down......I was unable to do that with Haynes or Chilton's, (Both manuals are printed and distributed by the same company, and one has things that the other doesn't).....The color codes on the wires were often wrong for "my" truck, and there were several instances where the wire color for a sensor was red with black stripe on "this" page, but showed orange on another page. I ordered a cd that was more tailored to my own vehicle from Bishko autobooks last Thursday evening and got it in the mail today.....If you need a manual to help, I would suggest going either with Bishko which gives more descriptive information on where objects are located on your truck...... A printed manual cost's bucks plus, but the cd cost a total of 46 bucks including shipping....I immediately copied the disk I received to my back-up hard drive, and stored the original disk in a safe place......Individual pages are relatively simple to print from Adobe, and you could, if you wanted to, print out all (over 1500) pages from your computer.....I'll never buy another Haynes or Chilton's....and have one of each that I'll sell to anyone interested for half of what O'Reilly's or Autozone will charge for them..... Oh, by the way, my truck wants to try and stall until it's warmed up......I'm still on the kick that the DRL relay or diode is causing mixed signals to be sent to the PCM....Hopefully the Bishko manual will help me chase the gremlin before it gets wet and starts popping out baby gremlins..... Oh, and there is another place that you can get a manual that is more tailored to your specific vehicle, going back at least fifty years according to what I saw..... Helms automotive manuals.....Both are relatively easy to find on line, if you might be interested.

I have a 94 GMC 1500 5.7 liter 4wd. 2 months ago it started running rough and had a loss of power. I replaced fuel filter, plugs and cleaned distributor points and ground contacts. No change. I took it in to get the emissions test done (required in my state) and it failed on the idle test. Took it to a shop. They did a compression test and flushed the transmission. Mechanic drove it several times, acknowledged the problem and said it's getting too much fuel and at the end of the day said it was the fuel pressure regulator. I got a rebuild kit consisting of new diaphragm and spring. Has slightly more power but still runs rough and appears to be getting too much fuel still. I asked the mechanic if any sensors were bad would I get a light and he said yes I would. No lights but is still not running right and still need to get it through emissions.

93 1500 5.7 here and had same issue as so many out there and did just about everything everyone else did with no change until I started looking at the oil. Although the gauge was good I removed the valve cover and saw I wasn't getting oil up there as needed so replaced the oil sending pump and although gauges remained the same(good pressure, good temp, no lights) my problem was solved. I couldn't tell anyone why I had no check engine or why my gauges read good with it but for some reason the truck didn't stay running maybe my pressure gauge went bad too and didn't notify me something was wrong IDK

I have a 89 chev celebrity when I am in line at the school it will idle high and choked out and died it does this sometimes at a stop light it runs find it only does it at stop lights and at school

I also had a 1989 Chevy Celebrity with the 2.8 V6 and it would idle but as soon as you pressed the gas it would stall out. After 5 months of research and trial and error, computer diagnostics it turn out that 3 of the 6 fuel injectors were shooting a stream of gas out instead of a spray pattern. I replaced all 6 injectors and it fixed the problem

My 88 gmc will run unless I'm turning or driving in 1st then it just dies N won't start for bout 30 mins any thought

Seems like GM has set this up so you have to take it in for service and use their "fancy" computer to narrow down problems like this. It sends them work in their service centers(where they make a lot of their money) and/or makes people give up on them as one poster said "good money after bad". I too have a 97' 5.7 suburban that runs and drives very strong except for it stalls moreover dies at idle. It does a little better when warmed up but still dies. It ran so strong I put a new Napa battery, water pump and Goodyear Wranglers on all 4. Now its worth maybe $1000 because of the idle/dies problem. Has all codes clear but has monitors for O2 and Cat. Nice leather interior and straight body but now it seems to be a waste of money.

It isn't just GM and Chevy that are doing this to their vehicles. Over 95 percent of all vehicles manufactured since the early 2000's cannot be worked on at all unless they are taken to an adequately equipped service center..... The computer diagnostic equipment only narrows the problem down to one of five or six possibilities..... Have seen more than a single occasion where the diagnostics indicated something like an O2 sensor, but be unable to distinguish "which" O2 sensor was bad..... And even then, neither of the O2 sensor's were defective, but the on board computer was receiving an incorrect signal through the O2 circuit because of an incorrect signal from something else being sent through the sensor..... I had, still have, the same idle problem with a 94 GMC C1500. Replaced a 5.0 with a completely rebuilt, top to bottom, front to back 5.7 not long after my problem started..... New ignition switch, computer, all sensors, VSS buffer.....Over 2500 in that truck.....Had one mechanic put a diagnostic tool on it and tell me the problem was with the ignition switch.....until I told him that I had just replaced that less than two weeks ago.....Finally just bought a 90 Chevy with a 5.7 in it and parked the 94 inside a garage.....Where it will sit, started and driven a mile or so ever so often, until the engine blows in the 90.....I can also salvage other parts from the 94 to put on the 90 in a lot of instances.....And I extremely seriously doubt that I will ever own another vehicle newer than a 93.....Have already switched from a dodge man to a ford man to a Chevy / GMC man because of the relative ease in working on Chevy / GMC pickup manufactured between 88 and 93 with a TBI and a non-electronically controlled transmission.....More than the two wires coming from the speed sensor on the tail shaft, and I don't want it.....I actually have two problems with the 94 now; Trans doesn't like to change gears right when driving, which is why I decided to get the 90 and just park the 94 and "maybe" worry about trying to trace down the short in the wiring behind the dash, which is what I strongly suspect is the cause for the not wanting to idle.

Crank Position Sensor ... not positive but might be

I can fix your problem if your truck is sputtering dying out wont stay started acting like it's out of gas I know what's wrong I changed the throttle body gasket I changed ignition coil I changed throttle body positioning sensor I changed fuel pump i checked for vacuum leaks I changed the distributor the rotor wires I even put a new oil coolant hose on and plugs but to no avail nothing worked. I have a 95 1500 Chevy Silverado my truck was acting like the O2 sensor was going out it was acting like it wasnot getting no pressure it seem like I lost pressure but tonight I got my truck running it is running good it was the coolant sensor

i have a 91 GMC 1500. my truck will start, run normal start-up rpm's for a min.. then drop and stall. it will run and drive with the 2 foot method but on top of the stalling issue the radiator hose is tight and builds up pressure. the trucks sounds great while running and has no power loss when driving. any idea's on were i should start?

Check gee value gee motor sensors on tbi and map sensor and purge valve

Check e.g. r valve and e.g.r motor. 2 throttle sensors. Map sensor. And purge valve

Coil pack

My dad has been trying to get his 94 Chevrolet Silverado 6.5 diesel engine fixed for 3 years. It will crank and run but when he take his feet off the accelerator it will shut off but crank right back up. He has replaced the fuel pump, coil pack, and other parts. He has had it put on a diagnostics machine and mechanics that claimed they know about diesel engine look at it but didn't know. However, he still has been unable to find out the root of the problem. He really wants to get his truck running back the same instead of driving and it quit at the light or whatever that's dangerous. Does anyone know what could be the cause??

check the distributor because on my 95 gmc 350 it die at stop sign or when put into gear and the distributor was all rusted out and just no good

Hi Daniel my dad said he don't have a distributor on his truck because its a diesel engine. Is your truck an diesel or gas engine?

Mystery chevy problem: I have 94 chevy 5.0 tbi. Same problem after some painful diagnosing found the pcv hose at the tbi was cracked and causing the problem! Hope this helps!

While it is evident that there are a multitude or problems with chevy's that can be a direct cause of the problem, there is a single important thing that most people don't think to check.....The problem could lie in one of the "conveniences" that your specific vehicle "doesn't" have.....Many chevy's manufactured during the years that are apparently most often effected by this problem have electronics and electrical connections in place though the specific vehicle does not include the convenience that those electronics and connections go to.....You don't have daytime running lights on your vehicle?....You still have the diode circuit that would normally activate the lights whenever the vehicle is started.....If that diode circuit is still in tact and the diode is still good, it won't affect the electronics in the truck..... If the diode is defective, then current can flow in the wrong direction and cause a direct short that will shut off your engine just like the shut off circuit of a lawnmower engine.... The problem "CAN BE" where you think that you don't have a reason to look, but actually do.....My problem, after installing a completely rebuilt, top to bottom, front to back, engine; was caused by a dead short through decayed circuits behind the dash that aren't even used by my truck but are still connected in such a way that they act as a "kill switch" when voltage leaks through to ground at the wrong time.....You can through everything you want to at it.....I did.....Hopefully your own problem might be in something simple like a cracked distributor seal, cracked hose, defective diaphragm in your tbi, loose chassis ground, of maybe it will be a leaky diode in a circuit that you shouldn't even have in your truck.

hi I have a 1997 chevy silverdo and has a 350 5.7 liter vortex I was jumping a lady cuss here car dies than I got home turned it off few hours later it didn't wont to start I got it to start it will run fine in idle but whin u put it in gear it miss fires what do I do I all ready put new plugs now it starts right up but still runs bad in gear what do I do

My problem was a coil pack. I can't say what your problem is or anyone's problem is cuz apparently several things fix this. The coil pack was one thing that no one mentioned. I assumed I wasn't running on all 8 cylinders so checking Spark is relatively free I would start there

For David and the 1997 Silverado.......I am far from a professional mechanic, just barely under being a shade tree mechanic, and the primary things that I "think" I might know about mechanics is directly from working on my own 94 GMC with a 350 TBI, (which has a transmission out of a 90 S-10)........Two different trannies, both L60 trannies, but the one out of the S-10 "IS NOT" electronic controlled but has the throttle cable connected to the carb, and the electronic cable that would normally plug into the tranny lying loosely atop the transmission unplugged......The diagnostic test ("ALWAYS") shows multiple transmission problems, along with a couple of others that show a defective sensor, such as the O2 sensor, (your vortex will have two O2 sensors that either may register as a problem, but isn't really the problem, only a problem because the signal going to the O2 isn't correct in the first place, so the signal coming out will be wrong no matter how new the O2 sensor is.)........A lot of problems may cause the diagnostic to say one thing is wrong, but the only reason that it is wrong is because the signal coming to it is wrong, and not because the sensor itself is defective, or the cause of the problem.......The older model with the L60 tranny only has a single ignition control module that controls firing, and everything else in the truck......The new model L60E has an additional VSS (variable speed sensor) buffer that adjusts the shift solenoids inside of the tranny.......The vortex has the ignition control module, (main computer brain), the VSS, and a separate computer module for the transmission itself.......Your problem "CAN BE" in either the ICM, the VSS, the TCM, (Transmission control module), a ground wire to either of those modules, or within the transmission itself...... I was able to adjust the throttle cable at the carb to enable (barely satisfactory highway operation), drivable with babying.......Your vortex "IS NOT" going to have the throttle cable to adjust......Your problem ("merely a stab at a guess") is inside of the transmission that prevents the transmission from dropping down to a lower gear through the internal shift solenoids, causing the truck to try to take off in a higher gear, which causes the engine to bog down, or choke and die instead of starting to roll when you give it gas.....With my 94, after a newly rebuilt block, and all top end engine parts replaced with new or rebuilt (everything), it was the adjustments to the throttle cable that actually made any difference in keeping the engine running long enough in idle to enable the engine to actually pull out in the higher gear and gradually adjust to smooth out the rough start.....The engine that came out of the 94 was actually a 5.0 instead of a 5.7, so the stronger engine enabled the take off under a higher gear, but "DID NOT" address the transmission problem itself........I had three primary options. Either have my L60 rebuilt, at least 1700, buy a rebuilt L60E for 1300 and install it myself, (risky because I still was not 100 percent certain that the tranny was "the only" problem), try to rebuild the tranny myself, (very risky), or a forth option of taking 1500 and buying a different chevy that the complete rebuilt 350 could swap over into, (so long as the tranny was good).....I found an L60E that came from a chevy with a 5.7 vortex that "WOULD NOT" work on my 94 because of the speed sensor location on the transmission..... Both the L60, and the L60E on the older models have a speed sensor on the tail shaft, while the newer L60E has a speed sensor connected to the shift linkage on the drivers side of the transmission near the fly wheel.......I know, from internet research that the wiring could be (re-engineered) to enable the change over in wiring from the transmission, but it simply wasn't something that I felt comfortable with trying myself, and the (licensed Chevy mechanic authorized to service Chevy and GMC) said at first that he could, then later changed to (It's impossible)..... That's when I went with taking1500 to buy the new to me truck......A 90 Chevy with a 350 TBI and an L60 with the throttle cable instead of electronic solenoid controls, and a tail shaft speed sensor.....I "could" take the tranny off of the 90 and put it on the 94, or take the newly rebuilt 350 from the 94 and drop it into the 90, which I plan to do one or the other when it become necessary to do one or the other to keep (a) truck drivable.......However, I also still have the tranny that came out of the 2000 Chevy that may or may not be in good condition...(A remanufactured tranny) sitting on a pallet.......I would happily sell that tranny for 100 bucks cash (AS IS), you come pick it up for a hundred dollar bill and you're on your own, don't come back;.....Or 250, you come pick it up, install it yourself, or have it installed, and if "the transmission" doesn't work, bring it back and get your 250 back, no other questions asked, though I would take your word that it wasn't operational..... Actually the primary reason that I would even charge the 100 bucks is because I had to take the dad blame thing off, and I personally think that taking it off was worth the 100 bucks for labor.....(And I just reminded myself of another possible problem with your truck, which can be simply a defective speed sensor on the transmission linkage, instead of the main computer, Transmission computer, Variable speed sensor buffer, or faulty ground.....because the faulty ground "could" be through the speed sensor itself).....Take your truck to Autozone or O'Reilly's, or some other similar auto parts vendor, and have them do a diagnostic test and give you a print out of the results listing the primary possible causes. Autozone and O'Reilly's provides this diagnostic test free, because they want you to buy from them.....But like I said, the diagnostic tool only points at "possible" causes, and the "possible cause" may be another problem that causes the incorrect diagnosis.....If you find an experienced, and reputable mechanic who won't rip you off, (yeah, I know that that may be impossible), instead of a mechanic who is authorized as a Chevy service mechanic for warranty repairs; you may have better luck with actually diagnosing and correcting the problem without it costing you a small fortune...... Or you can go to bishco and buy a tech manual tailored to "your model" according to the VIN number on the vehicle instead of the generic manual sold by Haynes or Chilton's, that covers multiple tranny's, multiple engines, multiple different wiring configurations, multiple different sensors and sensor locations, etc., and attempt to do further diagnosis on your own........Or you could always make arrangements in regard to the extra L60E that I have, and take a small gamble on losing a hundred bucks.....The core charge on the tranny would be around 350 if you swapped it when buying a reman through Autozone or O'Reilly's.........That would save you having to buy the reman for around 1700 bucks, changing the tranny's and taking the old tranny back to Autozone for the core charge of 350.....Since I would be happy to rid myself of the extra tranny, other possible arrangements "might" be possible and could include delivery to your place using my truck, but that would certainly cost you for my expenses in delivering it to you.......could include me giving you limited aide in changing the tranny out. (I won't change it out for you, but can provide the transmission dolly and jacks used to get under the vehicle and disconnect the tranny from the engine, change the fly wheel if necessary and all the rest, but "YOU" would have to do the grunt work, could even use my personal tools doing it).....But that's slightly more of a gamble on your part, because my personal expenses to deliver and help change them out "would not" include any kind of money back guarantee on anything other than the 250 mentioned earlier....Or you could bring your truck to my place and we switch it out under a shade tree, thus cutting out delivery expenses, but still having to pay something for using my tools, equipment and aide.....Changing a tranny can be done by anyone who can turn a wrench and follow simple instructions on what bolt to take out when...depending on the problems encountered, in as little as a couple hours, or as much as most of the weekend......I AM NOT a mechanic by trade or profession, but can turn a wrench and follow instructions, and HAD TO figure out how to do most of the grunt work pretty much on my own using a tech manual.....because I was tired of getting ripped by (licensed, bonded, insured mechanics) An experienced mechanic with a shop, the right equipment, including a hydraulic lift to raise the entire vehicle to work on can swap out any tranny and have you up and running in less than four hours from the time you drop off the truck, "EVEN WITH" unanticipated problems that the inexperienced shade tree mechanic would run into a snag with,.....such as the newer models using nylon inserts on the drive shaft and u-joints instead of small bolts which require destroying the insert in order to separate the two shafts if you have to separate the shafts from anywhere except the u-joint that connects the drive shaft to the rear differential......At any rate, there are "SOME" options that may be available to consider, depending on how far you want to take a gamble and do things on your own.

My 1994 Chevy 1500 5.7L has the same symptoms. Runs great till it warms up. I have to put it in neutral and up the RPMs until the light turns green. When I take off I have to baby the gas peddle. It does it going down the freeway and I have to downshift to get it back up. I changed the O2 sensor, distributor cap, and rotor. Still the same.

I have a 1993 chevy suburban that has all the same problems

CLEAN ALL YOUR FUSES THIS CORRECTED MY PROBLEM WITH A 1995 GMC YUKON. WITH THE SAME PROBLEMS ABOVE.!

Your fuel pump runs off of the distributor only his 90s model Chevrolet eggs it’s your cull that’s heating up and shut it down in most cases

fuel filter or clean your throttle body

Mine is doing the same thing right now and it's the sensor that's on the throttle body the AIC sensor which is the air intake control sensor. If you replace the sensor it will more than likely stop with the idling problem if your RPMs are going up and down and acting crazy and they're going down below 500 RPMs that's what your problem is.

Does it happen to have a code coming up about the throttle body or pedal position sensor?

so is there an actual answer here??? 1993 chevy Cheyenne v6 now a 1993 Cheyenne with a 5.7 350 v8 5.7 from a 1994 Chevy silverado same issue in both motors. Loses oil pressure fuel supply slows or stops and truck stalls. Replaced the following: fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel lines, distributor, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, map sensor, crank sensor, throttle sensor, fuel injectors, throttle body, computer, oil sending unit, fuel pump relay, fuel regulator, and the rest of the sensors that I can't think what they are called right now too much exhaust fumes I guess. Ready to blow it up!!!! HELP

I had this same problem and solved the problem. I went back to Ford. Never had that problem again.

Fixed my problem as described by others. This truck has 150,000 km. After running fine the 305 would not start. Then it would start and run great then all of a sudden had to two foot it back home where it stalled. Turned over a while and then it would fire up - run for three minutes - stall and then turn over without starting again. This continued for a day and I had to leave until I could get back to it. A year later returned to where the truck was left, threw the battery back in and it fired up fairly quickly. Let it run for five minutes and then revved it up a few times. After back to idle it soon stalled out again and back to the same bull. The first time I went through the TBI and installed new idle air control valve and set the idle. New plugs, cap and rotor, I checked the ohms on the temperature sensor and they changed as the engine warmed up - so I knew it was fine. I removed the black plastic foot long cover on the passenger fire wall - removed the white plastic retainer - and unclipped the connector to the fuel pump relay. NOW THE BEST PART. The following is what got the truck running - NOT a new fuel pump or fuel filter or temp sensor etc etc. I decided to remove and buff clean every ground connection and related body bolt I could find under the hood. There were two on the metal bracket the fuel pump relay was mounted with and another about six inches to the left of these. On the thermostat housing mounting bolt were a couple more. I did the battery negative cable too. The connection to the fuel pump relay were shot with contact cleaner liberally and blown dry with compressed air. Also the temperature sensor connection plug and sensor itself and blown out with compressed air. I did the other wiring harness connections around the TBI too - just for the hell of it, She started right up as usual but this time did not stall out - and has not repeated the problem since, A week now. Winter time in Kelowna and my truck is running great again, This just cost some time and patience. Too easy.

Spoke too soon. 1992 Chev 1500 p/u. On the ninth day it started all over again, just like before. More research and found out the following. The fuel pump relay which is located on the passenger side engine compartment firewall - behind a black plastic foot long cover - can be removed while the truck is running. If the engine stalls then the oil pressure sensor (located below the distributor between the fire wall and distributor base) has failed. I disconnected the fuel pump relay and the truck stalled. On the other hand if you disconnect the oil pressure sensor and the truck stalls then the fuel pump relay is bad. Now good luck trying to disconnect the oil pressure sending unit. It is located at the back of the intake manifold and below the base of the distributor. Because my truck stalled after I disconnected the fuel pump relay I made the decision to replace the oil pressure sending unit. To do so I felt pulling the distributor was the only way to access it. Put the motor at top dead center on #1 cylinder ( the rotor actually points to this cylinder when at TDC) and removed the distributor as well as a module and bracket to the left of the distributor and gained the clearance I needed. Unplugged the sensor and had to use a 14" crescent wrench to remove the sensor. My 1 1/8 open end wasn't large enough to fit the sensor size. It broke loose rather easily and I was then able to unthread it by hand. I decided to replace my distributor too because it looked pretty ratty inside. A new not rebuilt distributor and the sensor cost me $245.00 Cdn. Now it has been three weeks and all is well with the truck again. I know maybe the distributor may have been the problem but the oil sensor did not pass the fuel pump relay puling test.

Listen guys, stop throwing money at the fuel pump. CHECK YOUR ICM ON THE DISTRIBUTOR. Just take the cap off and it's the black sensor with the two wire connections to it. Autozone and other parts stores can test them for free. I had my 93 4.3l would start but then die after 3 minutes. Only one port went out and it wasnt adjusting fuel air mixture so when it would warm up it wasnt getting the right mix and die. I put hundreds into it until I figure that out. Then it died on me 6 months later, again it was the ICM. The replacement part had completely failed so it just shut off would crank but do nothing. PLEASE LISTEN GET YOUR ICM CHECKED, it can make you think it's a fuel or an electrically problem but it's really just the brain not doing either

I am having similar issues, i have taken my truck to multiple mechanics and each one gives me a different answer, and cost me more money, still don't fix the issue. My truck is a 1993 5.7 c1500 i have done almost all the remedies above. My Truck starts fine idles fine most times. You can throttle her up in park or neutral and she screams let off and she settles back to a good idle most of the time. Try to take off and she will idle fine in gear with no fuel. Give it fuel sounds like its dead but let off the gas and she comes right back to life. Tac drops down to nothing like the engine is dead but like i said let off the gas and she roars back to life. you have to feather the throttle to keep it running and take off but it don't die unless you come to a stop then the two foot meathod comes into play. injectors are pumping fine. After sitting a few hours and jumping back in it starts idles up then falls on its face and dies. It fires right back up and idles fine after it bounces around a bit as soon as you put it in gear it starts idleing ruff and wants to die it dies at stop signs and red lights fires right back up idles fine till you put it in gear. if you push on the gas while it is acting this way it bogs out and tries to die, unless you can feather the throttle just right less gas is more gas if that makes since it runs right at 1500rpm at 60 mph if you feather the throttle and just keep giving it gas she goes but different pressure on the throttle is a major difference the slightest pressure she bounces to life a quarter or half and she acts dead tac drops to nothing you hear nothing let off the gas and she comes back to life. taking off at red lights is horrible. Throttle throttle throttle just keep hitting the gas at different pressures till she takes off. Runs 55-80 most times no problem especially after she warms up. But if you slow down and try to get back to 55-80 say your running 60 and have to hit the brakes give it gas it acts like it does on start up and have to find that sweet spot in the gas if you can, to get it running or it starts stalling and back firing out of the throttle body. I have swapped plugs wires, cap button fuel filter twice to be on the safe side, egr, throttle position , mass air flow and all the sensor boxes on the engine. i ran new wires to the starter battery and power wire to the regulator switch on the fire wall. Im at a lose. After it warms up it drives awesome rides like a Cadillac until then it is possesed. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for some of my terminology im no mechanic, but it seems like neither are the shops i have taken it to either.

After the new dist etc and running good for four weeks it did the exact same thing as before. Turn over w/o starting. A NAPA was next door and I remembered the only thing in the fuel pump electric circuit I did not replace was the fuel pump relay. ( It had pasted the previously mentioned test). Figured why not change it? 25.00 @ NAPA, plugged it in and she fired right up. It has now been running w/o incident for over two months.

Control module inside distributor caused intermittent fuel delivery

My 1992 Suburban had the same exact issue. And I'm going to just say what I did and it actually worked. So as I slughishly get my truck home and inspecting it a little bit I found out that my fuel pump took a shit. I was a little strapped for cash and I was in the middle of swapping parts on some Civics I had that I was working on so I thought why not try a fuel pump from one of the Civics. So I put the fuel pump from the civic in the suburban and went to test it and it started up with no issues whatsoever. It actually worked. I'm just saying how I got my truck started again. Made by General Motors... Fueled by Honda lol Maybe this will help somebody save alot of time and money.

Hey Kaitlyn, was the Honda fuel pump you used a externally mounted pump - drawing through the dead GM pump inside the tank? Or was the tank dropped to replace the GM intank fuel pump with a Honda intank fuel pump? Just wondering if a second externally mounted fuel pump can pull through a dead intank pump.

holy holy

How many of you have taken your multimeter and checked the ohms between the negative battery terminal and the grounds on the intake manifold? Should read 0.005 or less ohms. If not clean the body ground near the battery add a new wire from there to the main ground on the intake manifold. Will fix most of all your people's problems,if you've already checked all the basics that everyone says they have checked

Not sure if this will help anyone, I have a 92 GMC with 5.7L 350, experiencing the same prob, I've changed out everything, ICM,ECM,tps,IAC,new pump,fuel pressure switch, temp switch, finally being frustrated I ran a wire from battery to a switch to the g terminal on the obd1 connector(fuel pump) started the truck , turned the switch on, and it stayed running, turned switch off and it still runs. Have no idea how , but it seems to have fixed it.

Keep your trucks on a preventative maintenance ritual... 1992 GMC YUKON MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE Change Oil and Filter every 4000 Miles (Synthetic) Changed oil at 205329/11272020. 209329 next change 4000 miles. Add 1 oz Sea Foam to oil 1 oz to every quart and drive 100 miles prior to change. Steam internals with water before smog check. Oil changed and steamed internals. Passed smog with new cat. 11272020 Change Power Steering Fluid and Brake Fluid. Check for leaking High/Low pressure hose. Skipped due to fluid is clean 11102018. Change next. Check Radiator Fluid (top off with purified water or antifreeze mix.) and Radiator Hoses for weakness. 183800 2013 New radiator hoses and Radiator fluid. New top hose about 2016 191144 miles due to rubbing. Check antifreeze. Check PH of Antifreeze. Alkaline test strips (8.5 to 10 is good) DVM to 20V Pos. in Antifreeze Neg. on Ground. (.00 to .30) good. Use Hydrometer to check gravity. Firewall hose to radiator changed June 2019 205329 mid pm check hoses check ok. 205329 topped off Antifreeze. Drain plug leaking. New drain plug 12202020 05312021 Clean and Re Oil Air filter. 11102018 204412 cleaned Check serpentine belt, replace belt at 70000 miles if needed. 11242020 205329 checked ok. Near end of service life but no cracks seen. 05312021 removed and checked when replacing water pump. No cracks at all. Belt and all pulleys checked ok. Unknown when last belt was changed. Speculate 40k miles left to change. Change at 245329 to be safe. Add INJECTOR CLEANER every oil change. Sea foamed and steamed 11272020. Lube chassis ( to lube front chassis, turn steering right full.) Has new Pitman and idler arms. 09212021 205329- Removed rivets and Replaced front upper and lower ball joints with Moog ball joints. Upper torqued to 18 ft lb(Ball to arm) 75 ft lb (castle nut), lower 100 ft lb (ball to arm) 90 ft lb (castle nut) . Axle 165 ftlb, Caliper 35ft lb, Tie rod end 40 ft lb, Used red locktite. New front bearing hubs approx. the same time All joints lubed check ok. New rivets to spash shields. New wiper pivots. Top off washer fluid. Washer fluid ok 05212021 Check tire pressure 38 psi. Tires topped off 11272020 Check tires for cracks and tread depth. Checks ok. Tires reasonably new. Check hydro module. New breaker installed 11102018 11242020 new wires installed and repaired air leak. Hydro operating well. 05312021 changed water in hydro. Check change or clean PCV valve. Replaced PCV 11102018 204412. Replace at 234412. Change motor oil every 5 years regardless of mileage. Silicone doors and wiper blades. New wiper linkage 11272020 Change mileage sticker with appropriate miles. 209329 Lubricate Key Lock Holes, ignition and front hood cable open pull (only WD 40). Lubed Dump Catch Can. PM @ 209329 4000 Miles, Check oil bucket if full and needed to take to recycle and if oil filter is available. Fram PH30 Short Fram PH5 Long Wix 51046 Short Wix 51069 Long Change Transmission OIL and FILTER every 30000 miles CHANGE DUE @ 213000 miles. Two more oil changes. Oil still red, not burned brown. Order pinless accumulators for trans/Torlon check balls/valve body gaskets. Check Battery every 3-5 Years Interstate Purchased from Costco March 12, 2019. Under warranty. 05212021 added battery tender plug to exterior front hood for maintenance charging when not in use. Change rear differential oil and front differential oil and Transfer Case every 30000 miles 212000, Front Diff and TCASE to be changed. Rear diff changed at about 205000 due to replacement of rear seals. All diffs to be changed @ 242000, AFTER next front diff and Tcase change @ 212000… Check axles at wheel for play and grinding when spinning, (New Front Hubs @ 205329) Check drive shafts for U joint failure. Replaced front diff seal and front bearing hubs 205329 09/21 Check Brake Pads / Shoes for wear every 30000 miles 9/2014 186000 replaced front pads with metallic. Check / change brake pads at 216000 30000 mi or when sensors begin to make noise. Check brake pads next (Minimum 3 MM thickness) New rear shoes at 205000 due to oil leaking on shoes and replacement of rear seals. Fronts change possibly at 216000. Shake front axles to check front bearings regularly. New bearing hubs 205329) Fronts check ¼ left at 09212021 205329 Tune Up at 30000 Miles 231000 NEXT TUNE UP wires cap rotor module only. 11102018 Changed coil, cap, rotor, module, wires, plugs. Iridium spark plugs do not need changing for 100,000 miles. Next spark plug change at 305412. 05/01/16 192300 changed intake manifold coolant sensor. Replace at 292300 (100K miles) Inspect / Replace Serpentine Belt at 50000 Miles. Replaced tension /idler pulleys, unknown when. Inspect pulleys. INSPECTED belt and pulleys (Need to take off serpentine belt to test/spin pulleys) , checked ok at 11242020. 05312021 removed belt and rechecked pulleys. Checked ok. Belt had zero cracks and very good condition. Change fuel filter at 15000 Miles. Last changed 196444 miles. Earlier changes make fuel pump last longer. 186559 Fuel pump relay replaced. Replace relay every 30K miles 216559 miles. Change fuel filter at 211444 15000 miles from last change. Order fuel filter Change Check Coil every 50,000 milesHEI pickup coil resistance should be between 400 and 900 ohms, wire to wire, NO resistance, either wire to ground. Be sure to move the connector around while you resistance test, as the pickup coil wires can break right at the terminal i. Replace at 251412 50000 miles Coil replaced at 201412 11102018 Check Tires for Cracks and tread / Change Tires every 10 years or low tread. 12282015 190000 miles 4 new tires installed changed all four with Cooper AT’s 2015. Change at 2025 or if tread is bad/ high mileage. Check ok. Replace PCV Valve @ 30,000 miles. Replaced at 201000 miles. Replace at 231000 11102018 Change fuel pump every 100,000 miles. 186559 2016 replaced fuel pump relay. Fuel pump overdue for change. Has never been changed. Keep fuel over ½ full and fuel filter changed. Fuel pump motor and sock needs to be changed only if failing. Fuel gauge working. Check light bulbs and lighting. 11242020 replaced front marker lights with LED due to failed bulb.

the damn cable from the accelerator pedal to the throttle is what did it for me...headache for sure

It has been over three years and the truck has not let me down - not even once. All the work previously done may have been avoided if I had changed the fuel pump relay first. ( see my previous posts). All the work ended up still producing the same results, until the day I changed the relay. Now over three years w/o an issue. The first relay had passed tests every time. An intermittent failing of the first relay was difficult to believe. But three years seems to suggest that is exactly what the problem was.