STABILITY CONTROL AND ABS LIGHT

Most common cause is a bad wheel sensor check that out first. Does it brake weird? lost of break fluid?

THANK YOU THE EXPLANATION. ACTUALLY I FEEL THAT THE BRAKES ARE NOT WORKING AT ITS MAXIMUM CAPACITY SEEMS A LITTLE HARD WHEN TO STOP. BEST REGARDS

If this is happening to you, skip to the solution below.  Sure it is lame, but better than hundreds if not more in parts and labor.  It is a 2nd home car, left it sitting for 6 weeks.  Started it and every time I just started and turned to the right, the TC light flashed and it bogged down, then I'd put on the brakes and get a sickening feeling, pulsing, sound of ABS trying to do something and then both lights came on and went off/on a few cycles but generally stayed on.  Really annoying because no problem when I last parked it. So I went to Advance and got the codes read: Codes C1236 (Speed Wheel LR Input - Signal Missing) and U0414 (Invalid Data Received From Four-Wheel Drive Clutch Control Module) The guy sells me the sensor for $29+, I take it home, take off the wheel and check and yup, the metal ring on the hub behind the brakes is indeed split and loose and spinning on the hub.  So the "kids" who had taken over when I got back initially said I couldn't return the sensor, but eventually succumbed and were able to do it (still in sealed bag, receipt from an hour before, etc.).  One counter guy said I might not even be able to get the ring or get it pressed on (after I read that requirement on another forum) and might have to buy the entire hub assembly.  Lawd y'all, this is just a cheap part time car for running around the granddaughter. So, I go to the JB Weld.  This is a legendary epoxy for making "weld-like" bonds between metal, plastics, etc.  I've generally used the "regular" version that takes a few hours to "set" and day or two to fully "cure."  They have a "Marine" version for outdoor, waterproof use (after curing) and I considered that but it's set and cure times were really long.  Considering the limited access to this spot without doing more than taking off the wheel, I went for the "Quick-Set" version with a 6-minute set time and fully cured in 4-6 hours.  It "only" holds like 4000 psi where the regular is 6000 psi or something but this isn't a stress part, I needed to be able to get it to set quickly. I mixed up a nice dollop of each tube and then took a tree branch stick I'd broken off from a nearby shrub (not at my home, or shop) and smeared it all round the hub tapered surface the TONE ring presses onto with the ring pushed toward the outside/wheel out of the way.  Once I got a nice coating all around the lightly rusted surface the tone-ring had been seated on, I pressed the ring back into place making sure the broken part was toward the front top where I could squeeze it.  It hurt but I repeatedly squeezed it with my fingers to try to get the split part as close together as possible and assuming some of the JBWeld was in the gap.  Within a couple of minutes, it set well and was back in position. Sure it was a bit sloppy, and it is clearly something I'd never do to one of my collectible cars, but if you have a cracked tone ring and it is still in place and not broken off and lost, this is a successful repair.  I don't know how long it will last but since these are very simple systems and the sensor only needs to see the pulses from the tone ring, like who really cares? $4 repair instead of hundreds or more (something I couldn't do at a vacation home, and apparently you need to press the tone ring on if you can even get it all disassembled and get a new ring).  Good luck!