1993 Honda Accord "P" light and "d4" stays on...Little power
Asked by kdd Sep 28, 2010 at 01:21 PM about the 1993 Honda Accord
Question type: Maintenance & Repair
I have a 93 Honda Accord and having issues with power. The "P" light and the "D4" light will stay on. This has been happening and the d4 light would flash. It would cause very low power, so I learned that when I start the car, make sure the d4 light isn't flashing. If it is, I would turn the car off and then turn the key over to see if it was still flashing before I started it. The problem now is the light isn't flashing, it's staying on. I had to drive home at 30 mph because the transmission wouldn't kick in. After driving 10 miles, it all of a sudden kicked in. This morning, went to leave and the car wouldn't even pull the hill in D4. Had to put it in D2 to get it to go. What do you think is the problem?
13 Answers
the clutches are probably smoked. It probably needs a tranny which is usually worth a couple thousand...
the trans computer is going in limp mode. check the codes and go from there. youll prob. need a trans
you really need to check your codes 1st be4 listing to that dude about your trans is toast. The pass side kick panal there is a 2 pole BLUE conector. Jump it off with a paper clip and turn you key but don't start the car. You "d4" light will blink your codes. long blink = x10's short blink = x1's (so if you get a long blink and 2 short blinks your code is 12) here is a code list for when you check your codes...Use the TCU codes for the trans long blink = 10 short blink = 1 1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1 2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2 3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor 4 CKP - crank position sensor 5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor 6 ECT - water temperature sensor 7 TPS - throttle position sensor 8 TDC - top dead centre sensor 9 CYP - cylinder sensor 10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor 12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve 13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor 14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve 15 Ignition output signal 16 Fuel injectors 17 VSS - speed sensor 19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve 20 Electrical load detector 21 VTEC spool solenoid valve 22 VTEC pressure valve 23 Knock sensor 30 Automatic transmission A signal 31 Automatic transmission B signal 36 traction control found on JDM ecu's 41 Primary oxygen sensor heater 43 Fuel supply system 45 Fuel system too rich or lean 48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor 54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor 58 TDC sensor #2 61 Primary oxygen sensor 63 Secondary oxygen sensor 65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater 71 random misfire cylinder 1 72 random misfire cylinder 2 73 random misfire cylinder 3 74 random misfire cylinder 4 80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected 86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem 90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area 91 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor low input 92 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow TCU Codes: 1-Lock-up solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted. 2-Lock-up solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted. 3-Throttle Position Sensor circuit open or shorted. 4-Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer. 5-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit shorted. 6-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit open. 7-Shift Solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted. 8-Shift Solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted. 9-Counter shaft or transmission speed pulse generator open or shorted. 10-Coolant Temperature Sensor open or shorted. 11-Engine RPM (Ignition coil signal) open or shorted. 12-(No code 12 used) 13-Main shaft speed pulse generator open or shorted. 14-Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted. 15-Kick down switch circuit shorted
I think you problably need to: replace sparks plub wire, then have a mechanic check the computer for you. then u will be all set
In this same situation described above. I believe the TCU and the main relay are the culprits. To what degree each plays is still a mystery for me. However, I I disconnect the battery and reconnect I can hear the main relay click. Then the selector D4 light goes out while in park. When selector is moved to D4 only the D4 light will illuminate and the car shifts perfect. Then after shutting the car off it will go back to the same problem. A new car could fix this problem once and for all. Does anyone have any insight? New TCU and Main Relay are my current thoughts and a prayer, because I already did those repairs
I agree with your thoughts. I replaced the main relay first and then the TCU. It fixed mine. Good luck and it's easy to do it yourself.
My 92 Honda Accord did the same thing the problem is the tcu lost its self the turn key off and on light went off then car would shift
I get code 17 on my 1992 honda accord n after i put it still give me that code
1993 Honda Accord Automatic, - Doesn't shift well, D4 Light on always ----- I changed the 5 electrolytic capacitors in the TCM, and now it shifts fine but the D4 light doesn't come on, even in D4 shift position. The two 15 ohm resistors are okay. Does anyone have a schematic or repair manual on the TCM (tranmission control module)?
Honda said it is normal for the D4 light to remain off after you fix this in certain years. It will not hurt anything. It is a programming issue and they are working on new programs for the new cars only since it's not a danger.
PorterClinton answered 4 years ago
Have my 89-year-old mothers 1993 accord lx-shifting problems the P & D lights stay on-would not shift automatically-was ready to buy a new unit TCM from Solo Parts which require a VIN number to make sure the correct one-before I was going to order-removed the negative battery terminal from the battery for 10 minutes-bolted the negative terminal back on the battery-car shifts fine-working as of now-for your information only God bless
I have a 93 Honda Accord the D4 light does not come on and it's very sluggish I have to start in first gear or D3 what can cause that
My D4 Light stayed on (not blinking) no matter what gear I shifted into - even in park or neutral. And although D4 Light stayed on, the tranny would not shift into D4. It shifted fine from first through 3rd, manually and automatically. I followed someone's advice and I disconnected the negative terminal from my battery for an hour. When I hooked the battery back up, the D4 Light was normal again, and a test drive resulted in the car shifting perfectly again. The lights were all back to normal as well. I replaced my tranny and TCU in 1993 Accord LX with a 2.2Liter engine about a year ago, so you can imagine how upset I was getting at the mechanic who gave me a 3-Year, 36,000 mile warranty on parts and labor. My concern was how much was the mechanic going to try and get me for "normal wear and tear" on his work. Here's hoping it still works tomorrow!