How to fix an intermittent start problem with ram 1500

Do you hear a click coming from under the hood when you turn the key. If so does it happen every time you turn the key over or occasionally. If that clicking occurs when you turn the key over and the car starts but when you don't hear the click the car doesn't start. . . And you said it starts sometime. It sounds like your starter. And keep in mind if your battery gets too low from trying to crank the vehicle the starter will not have enough juice to start.

Seems to be an ongoing issue with the same defective ignition switch in these vehicles as the Ford, Honda, Acura, Lexus, Toyota, and Infinity that all use the same bad parts. Change the ignition switch and consider yourself lucky you didn't get cheated by crooked dealerships and dishonest manufacturers.

Definitely not the starter.. Known to be problems with these Ram 1500 are faulty ignition switches that burn out but not completely so they work intermediately. if you have enough juice in your battery to run all your lights and accessories then the starter would make at least a half-assed attempt.. Ignition switch is something you can do yourself for less than 50 bucks. You tube has a couple helpful videos.. Just don't touch the Airbag screws!!

I had this problem. Try hitting the starter with a hammer a few times. Not hard just like knocking on a door. My 05 wouldn't start and I pulled it for test at autozone and it would test good. Buddy of mine said try hitting it so I finally did and it worked.

I have a 2010 Ram 5.7. Turn the key, gauges radio everything but the starter comes on. The trick I found I'd if I hold the ignition switch to the starting position, 15, 30, a minute, sometimes longer, it'll finally crank over and start. Not sure what's causing this. Almost like a Deisel that you have to warm the glow plugs before you can start it's not sure what the problem is though.

Just tried guruZMR's suggestion and it worked!! Now the real question is why??? WTF

My 2000 Dodge Ram did this yesterday afternoon. Started fine, took it down to the local store, then when I went to start it, nothing. Wouldn't even crank. Fortunately, the local mechanic is right by there, and he came over with his battery pack (no luck), then tried tapping the starter (nothing), so he and a helper pushed it over to the station, which is fortunately, slightly downhill. Now get this: they tried it again, and - you guessed it, it started right up. It was close to closing time, so I left it there, and he's going to see if he can find the problem today. I will see him this morning and mention the ignition switch. Hope that's all it is.

The mechanic said it appeared the shifter was sticking a bit, and thus wasn't getting all the way into "park". He freed it up, and tried running it a few times. Seems to have fixed it, for now anyway. At any rate, if it does happen again, I'll know to try moving the shifter, perhaps out of park, then back in, making sure there's a click, so I know it's in park. Didn't charge me anything.

i have a 2011 ram with same prb but it a loose ignition

I have problems with not starting some morning's. How can I fix that. I get up at 215 am in the morning I need my truck running

Happened to me one time before but worked after a few tries. Happened all day today but i figured out of you just take the key fob out and lock the doors and if you have command start use that then unlock doors put fob back in ignition and turn on and she'll go worked everytime gonna get it replaced tho

I had this same issue. Left stranded like 20 time over 3 years. Changed my ignition switch for less than 50 bucks and BAM truck starts everytime now. so glad.

I had the same problem i cleaned the grounds and positive connections and put a battery that had 670 cranking amps and bumped the key fired right up

My husband 2013 Dodge Ram want start ,he has an automatic starter it starts with it ,his remote and key will unlock door but that’s it he puts it ignition it don’t do anything and the screen reads like it can’t pick up his key ,were on vacation In Texas stuck out

What im finding is ignition switch on mine is the issue even after dealership put in new batteries in both fobics they were convinced that batteries were the issue if i open door and turn key on it will start

Good afternoon everyone I have a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 that I have been having this problem for several years now. I have replace the ignition switch the ignition control module both in the steering column as well I have multiple times clean the cables check the ground Etc. Several months ago I bought a new battery and that seemed to correct it however it has started up again recently. I'm beginning to think maybe something in the shifter or the brake pedal they may be a required connection before the ignition switch works I don't have a wiring schematic but I will update if I have any success in the meantime I'd appreciate any input as I continue my Pursuit.

I have a 2012 Dodge Ram and I have the same issue. I definitely think you are on the right track. My ignition will click, then I have to put my foot on the brake and wiggle my gear shift. This seems to make it start.

I have a similar problem with my 2016 ram. It will start with remote but will not go into drive seems like a security problem any advice?

I put above that I fixed it with the ignition switch. Same issue. No mechanic can help. Driving me nuts!

I had a variant of this problem today: remote Key lock/unlock was not working along with not turning over or crank when trying to starting. all other power working, lights, stereo, etc... had the Red lightning light on the dash. I was able to reset the computer on the truck by unhooking both battery cables from the battery and then touching them together. DON'T DO THIS WITH ONE CONNECTED TO THE BATTERY, COMPLETELY UNHOOK YOUR BATTERY FROM BOTH CABLES before touching them together. did the trick. lock/unlock worked, and it started right up. some crazy kind of hard reboot of the computer that my buddy found online while we were troubleshooting...

try your spare key/fob. when the inards fail the car will start up and run for a few seconds and die. over & over & over and --- you get the idea.

I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 and it starts and drives but when I turn it off then try to start back up it don't I have to wait a few seconds then it will start back up.

My 96 ram 1500 is doing the dame. Clicking under the hood and then starts. Has anyone determined what it is?

Kyle did you check all ignition fuses it's different for every vehicle. Check Ignition and fuel pump fuses under the hood and interior fuse box even if not blown corroded connector could be an issue and the IOD fuse... plus the ASD relay and Fuel pump relay ...Swap the ASD relay with Air compressor one try to start then check air conditioner to see if it works... then swap air conditioning one again with Fuel pump relay start it and check that air is working again then you know your relays work. If that's OK then it's before all that like ignition switch break in wires in the steering column or bad ground break or short in OBD 2 port...or security issue for the vehicle maybe not reconizing the fob or key may need security checked with key or fob. Possible it's the body module uhhhgg cars!!!

The one think I can't figure out if a ignition switch can work just enough to start the car but not enough to send the right voltage to the ASD relay .... if not the car wants to stall runs rough because not enough voltage to anything!

Sorry guys typo in last comment it's suppose to read The one thing not think .... I think! Lol!

Hey guys I came across this on the autozone sight for repairs it explains the (Skim module) Security Key Immobilizer. I hope it helps all of us ... you have to copy and paste the website into your search on Google or whatever you use foxfire explore chrome whatever. .Sentry Key Immobilizer (SKI) System it could shut down ignition! https://www.autozone.com/repairguides/PT- Cruiser-2001-2005/Electronic-Engine-Emission- Controls/Sentry-Key-Immobilizer-SKI-System/_/P- 0996b43f802e2b80

Hey guys just came across this as well ... If you need a new (SKIM Module ) Security Key Immobilizer Module lovate around the key barrel (see my previous answers for Web site) make sure whoever is programming ithey need to disconnext the battery and discharge it or skim programming won't work.

Sorry last comment t that's locate around the key barrel.

I agree with security issue. About twice a year I have the same issue where everything works except for the starter engaging and I don't touch the switch or gear shift all I do is disconnect the battery reconnect it and it starts immediately

I agree with security issue. About twice a year I have the same issue where everything works except for the starter engaging and I don't touch the switch or gear shift all I do is disconnect the battery reconnect it and it starts immediately. Obviously any clicking would indicate a starter issue.

I agree with security issue. About twice a year I have the same issue where everything works except for the starter engaging and I don't touch the switch or gear shift all I do is disconnect the battery reconnect it and it starts immediately. Obviously any clicking would indicate a starter issue. Touching only bat cables would also rule out ignition switch.

My 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 did the same thing. All power on but nothing happened when you turned the key. I just disconnected and then reconnected the battery and it turned over. Problem solved for me.

I hv a 2001 dosge ram 1500 same problem wont start intermediary soon there after perviously runing. I believe there are wiring issues on these dodges . wiring that runs to the ignition . somthing has to be geting hot in there iam thinking a constant wire since after runing tue voltage gauge climbs slowly after already runing ... Iam going to tear open the coulm and check it out n trace every wire till i find it. Since this truck has left me stuck at least 15 times since i have owned it :(

I have a 2010 dodge ran 1500. I can even get my key fob to go in. I had a really had time getting it out this am.

I have a 99 Dakota 5.2. Every now and then it won't crank or half cranks. Once I get it to start, it will start right up time after time. Someone told me the ignition switches go bad in these. Just haven't had time to check it out yet. Had battery checked at 3 different places, all said the battery was bad. Hmmm. -20 degree weather,been sitting for a week, jumped in and started right up. Don't think it is the battery. I think those places are set up to say your battery is bad to sell new ones.

Not sure how to get some input. My husbands truck 2009 1500 ram started this morning but the heat the stereo the signal lights nothinh would work...... N the wipers wpuld not shut off unless u turned off the truck. So strange. Anyone have a answer to this? Thanks

I have to hit the fusebox... I thought it was just "restart the computer" by disconnecting the negative on battery (and it coincidently worked but was not the problem). That's when I got the bright idea to check fuses (none blown out) Every time it doesn't start, I hit the fusebox because I was mad when I realized it wasn't "reset computer". Sometimes i hit it a few times. This often required action never let me down - yet! Last year, it started about 2/3 of the time for a couple of weeks, then worked ALL winter long, but did it to me 2 years ago in a snowstorm for about 1/2 hour, then started right before I was going to call tow truck, so, it's not anything expanding due to hot summers. I post, hoping for an answer, but also to let others know that there's "this" possible problem, too, concerning 06 ram 1500. Obviously, it's something not connected tight in the fusebox but everything's tight... Maybe it's a cheaply made part right below (probably the relay, IDK). If it's broke, it keeps fixing itself.

Mine does the same thing

I had the problem where my key did not open the door or the remote started to not start the truck my key switch would not start the truck one of the helpful topics take the negative and positive terminal off touch them together for 30 seconds reboot your computer and mine started thanks for the help

I had the same issue on an 2000 ram 1500, like Robert said, hitting the fuse box worked for me, more specifically the engine inline in the top right corner. I noticed the bolt holding it down was loose, and noticed it was stripped when I tried to tighten it, but hitting it or pushing down on it did the trick. But now no luck with that either. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

GuruZMR suggestion worked on my 09 Ram 1500 5.7 after I had a dead battery recharged but then no crank in park or neutral. All dash lights worked & could no jumpstart. Inserted key turned to start position and after a count of about 25 seconds it burst into life. Then started straight away the next time. This is my second ignition switch!!!!!!! after 4 years & 70 000 Kim’s.

I have the same problem with my 2012 ram 1500 I have been dealing with my truck not starting turning off while driving for a year. It was no big deal cause I could slip it to neutral and start it up, but my not be on the first turn. But now with turning off sometimes 60 times in an hour drive, it's time to fix it.BUT IM Actually posting to let you know it is your ignition switch module. So when ur truck starts and drives but I say u don't have power windows, automatic lights don't turn on, no radio, no, HVAC system well that is due to the position of the key fob still in the start position slightly, if u were to slightly turn it counter clock wise u will have full access to all vehicle features and they will all resume where they were left at (on/off) but I do mean slightly cause the next position u are heading to is, well u guessed it, OFF, a position I have experienced alot but if I want I can physically hold the key at any position so it don't move and it will never die on me if I hold it in the start position ( but only function is just driving with no extras that does mean no turn signals even, but u don't have to worry about it turning off. Or u can turn it ever so slightly and when and the vehicle we electronics all turn on then hold it right there and I mean right and your good it'll never die. But if u move it, u will experience 1 of the 2 depending which way u move die to the left or just drive with no extras but u get to where your going without the hassle of the restart restart restart restart oh and alot of try to starts cause as done as u try to start and u let it turn on its own to the run position will it went just a little to far back and it's off. So let's say u don't even have to hold this with your hand either u u were crazy and rigged something up that were to slightly rotate the fog clockwise or pull the top of the fob to the right it would be as though your hand was there holding it while it wasn't there.

Sorry forgot to give the rest of info. So u can either buy a new ignition switch or just pull out the one u have and clean the 4 contacts. And as soon as u open it u will see why I said clean it and u will see where the contact is made. Remember those are electrical components so clean properly, such as using some delectrical grease

Had similar issue with my 2010 ram 1500. Drove me crazy as after it was towed to dealer and taken off truck it would start. Dealer couldn’t reproduce. After going on for several years I had the dealer put in a Stars report and before I could get home they had an answer back from engineering. Problem is a known problem with the valve pack assy in the transmission. This was replaced and problem resolved. Point here is if you are having weird issues with your truck have the dealer submit a Stars report on problem. This issue does not show up in any service bulletins so the dealers technicians have No idea of what the problem is. You can surmise why they do this!

Sal in Clifton nj. I'm done with Dodge rams because of starting issue. Dealer wants 500$ to fix problem. They really got you over a barrel. I'll never buy another vehicle with a key fob

Hey guys I had a similar problem with my 97 Dodge Ram. I'm going to back ground in electrical engineering so maybe we can figure this out.. I'm thinking that Ramjunk is rot on in his assessment transmission module has something to do with it. I've been fighting the same for well over a year constantly randomly dying going down the road not wanting to start back up for a minute all the way up to days before it will start back. But I'm thinking that this is not just a single problem this is multiple problems that's causing everyone to have slightly different symptoms and it all has to do with the steering column. I noticed after a while that I was having a hard time putting it in park I have to jam at Park before I could start it wood nightstands for the safety feature but also had to replace the factory coil with a mega Coil that came off of a compressor motor. It was the only way I was able to get my motor running and get Spark so I believe it also has something to do with a buildup of resistance from connections and the feedback through the ASD circuit. If you add In any issues with the ignition switch then you have a recipe for disaster. Its all several small problems with connections from the fare box that feed the electrical safeties & supplies the ASD circuit which will Cause almost every single one of the issues we all are having. I'M going to dive in on this issue & I promise I will figure it out. Also ifyour having electrical issues it goes without saying that Dodges are absolutely the worst for complicated electrical issues. I once had an issue with the headlights, 4WD engaging, interior lights, & a no run condition that Was caused by the chime module in the drivers Kick panel that tells You a door is ajar. Wish me luck men. . . . & ladies ! lol I'll probably need it.

I have a 98 Raman with 3.6 6cyl. Engine used to die at speed while turning, usually left. Lived with that for two years , turned out to be the power control module , PCM or brain box. Got one from a place in Florida online, pre- programmed for my van. 149.99 Now I am having the , doesn't start unless jumped, trick. I have the 12.5vdc at the battery. Gonna try the new ignition. I have also had the bad rotor and cap problem. Left me stranded on dauphin island while pulling a boat on a two lane causeway 55mph speed limit. I fixed it by taking apart the ignition system from inside the van. Have no idea how or what was wrong, but it ran for another 3000 miles before it developed the PCM problem . Gotta love mopar! ,

I have a 2011 ram 1500 . not sure if i have a fuel pump or ignition issue . if im lucky I can get the truck to start it'll run fine all day long until I turn it off. That's when the fun begins . it will crank in the start position and stay cranking in the on position until I turn key all the way off. However with a brand new fully charged battery I can put a battery charger to it and it will Start right up . occasionally it will Start and immediately die but after a few times will stay running at an idle up to an hour that I know of for sure . However this trick will not work if im trying to jump from another vehicle battery it ONLY works with the big charger I have . once it is running 99% of the time it runs fine and as long as I dont turn it off for to long will Start up fine . leave it off to long same problem comes back . after reading several things it has symptoms of both bad ignition bad fuel pump . all my problems started after replacing a little black box that connects to my ignition and my gearshit. Battery alternator starter all brand new definitely not the issue . However on fuel pump side of things I cant hear it kick on after turning key to on position however stick battery charger on it starts right up . on ignition side of things if I don't disconnect my battery it will drain over night . I read the ignition switch can cause this but unlikely with a fuel pump . I also read a faulty ignition can shut off fuel system . any help or suggestions ? Dealership wants to charge me 300$ to put on a machine to tell me which it is . then if it's fuel pump that's 400$ if it's ignition switch after programming its 700$ . which part would you suggest ?

Steven did you ever figure out the issue? I have a 2011 1509 and its been driving me crazy for almost a year! I had a new fuel pump put in becuase one place insisted it was it! I said my fuel pump was replaced 3 years ago! Well when i picked it up nope still wouldnt start right! I said SEE this did not fic the issue! Let me go back to say in july my alternator went, after that i noticed lots of my light bulb adapters were melting! Ok then aug was when i was on a trip and it was not starting well at all!! The day i had to have it towed it would not start at all! Thats when they did the fuel pump! Picked it up same issue then again that night i was starnded in orlando and luckily 3 people tried jumping it etc etc after 2hrs the damn thing started! I took it to dealer they said it was the TIPM and did a by pass. It starts! But now doing it again! But my truck starts rightbup fine no stutter now crank click half crank wind up noise! But with the key it has issues ever other time! I dont know if i should get a new TIPM or do the ignition switch or the starter etc! When i bring it to mechanics i doesnt do it! I have recorded the noise they all say no thats not the starter no thats not the ignitin! Im dumfounded and fed up! HELP

I had issues very similar to this, i thought for sure it was the relay or maybe the starter. I bumped the ground and the lights flickered. I cleaned all the surfaces of the ground wires. Started right up.

my 2017 RAM wouldn't start after a short run to the store. Lights, alarm, power locks and my retractable side steps worked but the screen was blank except for a message that my remote start was locked and that I needed to start my vehicle in order to reset, which of course I couldn't because nothing happened when I turned the key fob. so, I disconnected the battery, and everything came on, truck started. Not sure if this is a one-time issue as I may have turned my truck off while in drive or something else caused it to play dead. Has anyone else had this issue with the same fix and is a reoccurring problem and what's the fix.

Problem solved. I was having the same problem with my 2011 ram 1500 4.7 liter truck. My truck only has a little over 28,000 miles on it and was running perfectly when I shut it down the last time for the summer. My indicator lights showed the infamous red lightning bolt on the dash along with other lights so I figured the battery was low, but it was OK. I checked out several leads from links on the internet but nothing helped. I had checked out all the fuses and reseated all the relays in the fuse box and I was about to try out some other leads from the internet when I got the idea to test the identical relays in the fuse box by exchanging their locations two at a time ( since I did not have a way to test them out of circuit ). There are eight small ones that are identical ( Omron 68083380AA ) and then there are two larger ones that are identical. ( If you look at the inside cover of the fuse box it shows the location of all the relays and fuses and what they are used for. However it's very difficult to see this on the inside of the cover since it's black on black, so you would want to use your cell phone and take a few pictures at different angles that you can look at with much more scrutiny.) I started with relay # 4 and relay #9 since they were closest together. it turns out that relay number 4 (it's for the run/start circuit) and relay #9 was for the HVAC fan motor in the dash. I jumped in the truck and lo and behold it started right up as if nothing was wrong and the fan motor in the dash for the AC did not run. That was my problem. Now I have to go get a new relay for the heater fan circuit in the dash. I will be getting two of these relays so that I will have a spare one in the glove compartment at all times. Since they are only about $25 apiece and easy to change out, what a great item to have if you run into problems on the road especially since they use eight of them in the fuse box for various Circuits. I followed a lot of the links online that pertained to intermittent starting problems and run problems. I'm thinking a lot of these problems could be linked to relays that develop faults in them overtime that are intermittent. They are typically made with a fine copper wire wrapped around a tube to make an electromagnet. Inside the tube there's a metal insert that gets pulled up into the tube when the relay coil is energized. When this metal insert moves, it mechanically moves the switch inside the relay to make the connection that they want to use for the function it is designed. Over time this thin copper wire could develop a hairline fracture somewhere in its length that could make the solenoid not energize at all (all the time)(MY CASE) or it could be a case of making the connection intermittently based on the outside temperature, vibration while driving the car, or just energizeing it ( as in turning the key to start could make the starter solenoid click but before the starter can engage to start the car the relay coil faults open and the fusebox relay drops out stopping the whole process ). If some of these relays become intermittent they may cause some check engine codes to be thrown which could lead to incurring extra costs that are not needed. Just a thought.........for some of the hard to explain situations, 3 new relays for $75 for the do it yourself guys could save $$$.

All you need to do is replace the contact and plunger in your starter. The starter is easy to take out of the vehicle with the right simple wrenches; since it is gear reduction it is light to handle. Below is a youtube video. This video does a complete starter rebuild/ cleaning but all you have to see is 2nd half of the video which shows changing the contacts and plunger. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9nGhxE6HFdA

possibly the Nutral Safety Swtich