Front AC Delay

Mine is doing the same...won't blow front air for a good 3 or 4 minutes, will have small bursts of air a couple times, then finally blow hard after the delay and works fine after that until the van is shut off. I have replaced the blower motor resistor and the whole blower motor with no results. Help!

I now have the same issue in our 2014 town and country.. Was wondering if anyone found the cause before I start replacing things.

I finally broke down and brought my van to the Chrysler dealership. They, at first, couldn't figure it out either, trying different solutions that didn't work. After 5 days in the shop, they finally found the problem after calling in a Chrysler engineer from another city to solve it. It ended up being the AC actuator mode door. Apparently it wasn't closing all the way, thus telling the computer to not blow air yet. After tearing apart the whole dash to get to it, everything works great now, but I paid a pretty penny for the labor!

What did they end up replacing?

Mine is doing the exact same thing. I replaced the blower motor and the resistor, and the fuses. At least this gives me something to look into. Thank you for sharing! By the way T G, Did they end up replacing any parts or readjusting some things?

my 2014 is doing the exact same thing. I found a service bulletin about the problem from Chrysler https://www.cars.com/articles/2014-2015-dodge-grand-caravan-chrysler-town-country- climate-control-issue-1420683924634/

I had the same issue stated in the first post on this string. The Part was 102.00 the rest was labor. the part is called blend door inlet flap. the dash comes down of course the part is not accessible w/o pulling the dash. 1240. in labor 24/24 warranty and tech never done one before so he called the hotline. It works just fine thanks for the help.

Yup, the labor killed my pocket book. The shop replaced the AC actuator door, of course the part wasn't that expensive, as usual, lol. Been working fine since my original post last year. I also replaced the resistor and blower motor myself with no luck, before finally bringing it to the Chrysler shop. Happy it's working now, since living in Florida immediate AC is a necessity!!

I had the same issue on my 2014 town and country! Using the info from the thread above... I reached up inside the hvac unit behind the glove box. I took out filter and felt that fresh air inlet door, broken and floating around in there. I ordered the new part. So let me say to properly do this yourself the WHOLE DASH BOARD should come out. Half way through pulling the dash in my driveway i realized an easier way. Ultimately what I did was work the old piece out after also taking out blower motor(3 small screws hold it in), take off the old actuator (two little screws hold it it), and work the new door inside the old box through the hole for the blower motor and filter door. The inlet door piece does bend ever so slightly... but enough to jimmy the new piece into the holes (has a splined hole/tab for actuator and a plane tab to ride on). Reinstalled the actuator... and boom! Fixed. I guess the hvac unit needs to sense a positive stop on this air inlet door and if not will not start a new cycle when cycling the ignition. I guess you take a risk of braking the plastic but for me worth it! I would rather avoid a 1500$ repair bill.

I have a question. My Air Inlet Door is broken as well. I began to wonder why it was broken. After removing the actuator I turned the key to the on position and the actuator started turning and would hesitate every so often but would not stop turning even if tried putting some resistance on it. That is what broke the door in the first place. It did not stop turning for about 3 minutes when is evidently when the fan is allowed to blow. My question is, what causes the actuator to turn or to stop turning?

I want to thank Guru9Z for his post. I took apart my wifes 2014 blower housing today. Dropped the fan and pulled the filter out. Had to flex it to slip it off the motor gear and out the hole on the opposite side from the gear. Had to wiggle the gate out the A/C filter cover hole and yes had to flex the material some to get it out like Guru said. I actually fixed it with metal strap, some small screws and the JB weld that hardens with black light. Put it back in same as I took out and voila! Fixed and stronger than ever.

I second David. This post has saved me a lot of money. Took off my blower and filter. Then I just slipped the broke door out, took off the actuator, slipped the new door in and reconnected the actuator. Took time and creative maneuvers but it worked. Thank all of you sooooo much!!!!!!

Thanks for the advice. Can you buy the door separately (besides from a junk yard) or do you need to buy the whole housing?

I went to pull a part but all the ones available were broken. I went ahead and bought a new one on eBay took it apart used the door, actuator, filter and filter cover. It’s actually pretty easy. You remove upper storage compartment the glove compartment the foam insulation under the blower and the blower. You’ll be able to work on the parts from above the storage compartment and below the hole where the blower sits. You’ll remove the actuator and the push the broken door either through the filter opening or the hole where the blower sits. I actually place the new door through the filter housing flexed somewhat and placed it in the holes I then placed the new actuator on and put it all back together and it fixed the problem.

I purchase a 2014 caravan and the after a couple of weeks I noticed the fan delay issue described in this forum. Sure enough, the recirculation door above the cabin air filter was broken at the actuator shaft. I purchased the Air Inlet housing on eBay for $80 dollars and dissembled the door from the new housing, installed it into my van as described in this forum and now everything works perfectly . . . good as new! I am not an accomplished mechanic, just a do-it-yourselfer who wants to save money in the process. This repair only took a little over an hour in total (though I did not replace the actuator as it was working fine) and I would recommend this to anyone with even a little savvy. One point to remember is that the old recirculation door must come out the filter door and NOT the blower motor opening. You can fairly easily get the new door in through the filter door and using one hand in the filter door and one in the blower motor opening manipulate the new door into position and flex it into the hole for the pivots. You should make sure to insert the non-actuator side first as it is easier that way, then the splined actuator side is piece of cake. Also, make sure the new door is installed in the halfway opened position or you will not succeed in installing it. The new door is pretty resilient to bending, but patience is still a virtue here. I thank everyone who contributed something to this solution as it saved me literally over a thousand dollars! One hour effort for this kind of saving is worth it for everyone I imagine.

Clifton’s answer was super helpful. I just ordered the part from eBay for $80, removed the flap, lowered the blower motor, pulled the old flap out, put the new flap in. And it worked. It probably takes 30 minutes. It’s just very uncomfortable down underneath the glove compartment to reach certain torque screws. Here is a video that gives a short visual description. https://youtu.be/zDmQzUXW92o? si=bgT_UM4LnKyuSiyJ

Wow. Thank you so Guru and everyone else. I ended up following the instructions and replaced the a/c inlet door/flap on my 2013 Town and Country. Like Clifton said, I put the right, non-actuator tab of the door in first and then flexed the door to put the actuator side in the half open position. It fixed the problem. I actually made a Youtube video (not best quality but I figured it might help someone). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21ZysQ20jOc