I have an 83 Ford LTD Crown Victoria. The fuel pump stays running when the key is on. Is this normal? The car will not start. There is pressure at the injectors and power at the injectors but no fuel comes out. If I dump gas on the carburetor, it will start but won't stay running. What do I do to fix this?

The fuel pump keeps running even after the engine fails to start. It will only shut off when I turn the key off. Where are the relays and how do I check them?

replace the stuck relay. test and search out the eec relay. You need injector pulse to operate injectors. You need the Ford service manual and the EVTM to simplify. try public libraries or your dealer service. ask for help.

There's also vids on u-tube to understand injector pulse, and removal and manual cleaning of injectors.

Dont hold the throttle wide open, and use a test light to verify injectors. They sell them at the parts store

do you have an answer on why the fuel pump runs all the time while the key is on?

The 4th post tells you what I found most often, sticky or stuck relay. We could often tap the fuel relay and get them to free up, indicating we should plug in a known good one and continue the diagnosis. For an 83, it makes sense to use the ford updated part.

Calling your dealer service to ask about an EVTM can simplify. Their shop foreman could tell you if they still have any year EVTM that would apply to a Crown Vic. before 87

They may even have your answer for reading codes without the "super star II" anmd tell you which kick panel may have the eec relay, etc.

There once was a publication called "Beyond code 11"

This is dangerous in that excess fuel can cause a fire under the hood.There is a fuel shutoff in the trunk also under the vehicle there are leads from the tank leading to the motor. The leads are labeled to and from on some models. Wires may be crossed, fuel pump not disengaging, fuel system needs to be reset to computer with diagnostics. remove the fuse for this when parking the vehicle or disconnect the battery when leaving it sit. Too much fuel can cause the engine to stall as well or gurgle when sitting. Someone discarding a cig for example can cause fumes to ignite. Check your owner's manual for troubleshooting tips and get if fixed at the dealership or however. Hope this helps!

It seems odd that the vehicle can have injectors and a carburetor. you must mean CFI throttle body or FCA. It helps to call them what they are when looking things up or ordering parts. There is a lot of experience correcting books during this era. A newer EVTM was always our answer if we had not found some part location. Once you get the schematics and helpful hints in the manual that makes sense, you can advance to the next problem. "that part never existed" or, an engine is a motor, or "you have to make your own parts", bastiges. Hope your luck is better and tennis shoes has sent you to the diagnostic info with that website. This is why I was saying, you get the latest part from Ford, and ask for help in service. Those guys have seen what I have, and more recently, and know where the books went, or how to look it up today. I noticed the older books were being donated to the city library reference deparrtment after 10 years. newer years taking their place, then, reference systems being put in to take the place of those handy thin manuals.

Automotive database is free at the library too, but their info is only as good as its last update. I looked up wiper testing for a 78 c-10 and they showed it having a BCM....what a pile, I found all the tests for all those rigs in the Motor's manual and the photocopies were a handful of change.

When I returned to run the tests, the guy had ordered every wiper motor possible and went to match it up. After that, we fixed where some stereo jockey had messed with the switch wiring. Then we blew the fuse to find its correct location....so when you ask about an 83 crown viccy ? You get to learn what we did, ask the old man. If they havent fired him for being old, or the wrong persuasion. My prayers are with you.

Part names and numbers are found in the Driver's manual, the Hanes manual for the year of car and doing a diagnostic on the vehicle first will give you the code for them to find the part name and number. Simply put troubleshoot check circuits and fuses then troubleshoot some more. It is usually frayed or rusty wires, loose connections or other simple things that lead to further problems. Call the dealership if all else fails.

Fuel pump running is electrical not anything else so remove the fuse, disconnect the battery, check relay connections with Ohm meter. Check online for recalls. Troubleshoot every part and sensor then replace or have the fuel pump checked. Something is not disengaging for it to continue running. Again check the fuel shut off location trunk or glove compartment.

That's cute,... ever take the cover off a fuel pump relay? Swap it with a like part using the same connector? You would start to see what goes wrong with them. Parts substitution with known good parts saves much time and money... Especially at $89 an hour in 1983. now it's over $120. its like having a switch turned a light on but flipping or pressing has no effect at the wall switch. In this case we tapped them with the handle of a tool usually. after the weakened bimetal gets apart from the field, it can cool and stay open. Next time? happens all over. I went to get a hand ful of them at the u-pull and still substitute them sometimes today. to eliminate that and get my mind on redefining any real issue, in this case, injector pulse test with a test light... like $4 at the parts store. The EVTM is easy reading and big like a coloring book, it has what you want to know, but not what you dont need. You can still get some...Helm publications,ford parts....or used books,...or find them by phone at libraries, then you would see the savings of money time and frustrated confused wonder.

If your basic electrical and care and maintenanc3e are of a clean car with few troubles, the expectations are good. I fit is a few hundred K miles and had battery troubles, that's foreboding. There is a site you can get eec relay testing and photos (easyautodiag.com/ford/4.9,5.0.5.8/eec-power-relay-test-1) That should land you on a nice set of pics and tests. But that is just eec power relay. Understanding the harness and the ways things can go may require that book or you take your laptop out to the car with you. You can download any number ofthings and pay your way through, or you can search by symptoms and make, model, year. The familiarity is hard to teach. I have to go take some meds, have a nice crn viccy.

I did not mention that back in 83 all your power distribution comes from the starter relay by the battery, if that is a mess, the battery spray to stop the acid may be purchased while you are getting what you need so far. you need to clean up any corroded mess, just go part by part, all the mains go to the starter relay where the B+ cable connects. Those harnesses can be damaged by years of no maintenance perhaps. See how yours is. then get repair connectors or insulators or what have you. tape, convelute, whatever likes being eaten.