Power Windows not working

My best guess is the motors are malfunctioning or there is a wiring or switch issue. Check the switchs, check the wires and if all else fails replace the motors

its doubtful that all three motors would fail at the same time, or the switches also would fail all at the same time. but it is very possible that there is a wiring issue to deal with. you may also check the child safty lock again to make sure that that switch is ok for sure.

i have an 07 accord with the same issue..its the main switch...on the drivers side that is bad...its like $150 for a new switch...i have yet to replace mine

Jonathan, I have the same issue with my 07 accord. The driver side window works but all other windows are not working. What could be the issue? I know you said it's the switch. Where do I find this switch?

its the switch on the door that needs to be replaced. its $150 at autozone for a replacement. ive gone to junk yards in hopes of finding an 07 accord but have not had luck

Thanks Jonathan for your response. Could you point me to the exact switch that I need to replace? Is it located on the driver door or passenger? I would appreciate the exact name for the switch if there is any. Thank you.

it is the switch on the driver side door.. the price might not be the same in your area http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Power-Window-Switch/2007-Honda-Accord-EX/_/N-jpn2hZ9cilb?itemIdentifier=909878_0_0_8034%2C78655

My "07 did the same thing, never bothered to fix it!

With my 07 accord I am having the same issue, the only working window is the drivers and no other window works. When I try and lower the window for the back I can hear it trying to go down by the electric swtich going but it doesnt go down... Any advise? I dont want to buy 3 new motors and wondering what I should do.

I have a 2007 Honda Accord the driverside window works but other 3 windows dont, but when u hit the master switch on drivers door to try to roll other 3 windows down you can hear the switch click at the switch on the door ur trying to roll the window down at.

I had the same problem with my 2007 Accord and foud that the problem is the child protection switch in the master window control unit was not resetting. Since this is not readily repairable, I ordered a used replacement from a reputable supplier ($90 new is $250) and changed it out. The fix worked perfectly except that I had to reprogram the keyless entry.

Dosteen: what is the name of the reputable supplier you're referring to?

i went to the dealer in my area, i live in southern NH and it was $180 for a new switch. as dosteen mentioned i also had to reprogram my key less entry

dosteen how did u reprogram ur keyless entry?

My key less entry doesn't work either after I replaced the master Window control unit

I put a jumper cable from the white/green wire ti the 1st large black wire and all my windows work again. I used an old cell phone charging wire

Daniel, could you be a little more specific? Where are the two wires?

I have the same problem everyone else is having. only drivers side works bought a new master switch from honda dealer online 128.00. installed and programmed keyless entry. still no windows work except drivers. will post again when real problem is found.

It's the Master switch. $85.00 on Ebay or Amazon also if you Google Master Switch for ...Honda accord there is a Parts website that has used switches from Hondas and they vary in price from $25.00 -$60.00 based on vehicle mileage.

I also fixed the switch like Daniel did. Pin 1 (black) to pin 3 (white/green stripe) but I used a 15 amp fuse. and jammed it in. it was a tight fit and had to tweak the fuse a little but all the windows now work

THANKS TO WHOM TOLD ABOUT THE WIRES JUMPER, FIXED THE ISSUE, I USED A FUSE IN THE JUMP AS WELL JUST IN CASE, BUT ITS A 50 AMP, ONLY ONE I HAD LYING AROUND AND PRESTO, IT WORKS, I ALSO NOTICED IN THE HARNESS THERE WAS AN EXPOSED WIRE THAT WAS TWISTED POSSIBLY IN MANUFACTURING, LOOKED LIKE A JUMPER WIRE AS WELL, HONDA NEEDS TO STEP UP TO THESE FAILURES, FAULTY WIRING, MY ONLY COMPLAINT THUS FAR ON MY ACCORD HYBRID V6 2007!!! THANKS AGAIN!!!

I have a 2006 Accord with same issue. For my understanding, do I use 2 jumper wires? one from pin 1 to the end of a fuse, and another jumper wire from the fuse to pin 3 in series?

Yes, thats how I did it, soldering it would work better, and then electrical tape, its a tight fit under control housing so use a smaller 15 amp fuse

Thanks! Im thinking of using a fused jumper wire from autozone for $3.99, I hope I can easily emove the master switch and work on it on my bench

Does the main switch come out easily or do I need to remove parts of the door ?

I just checked, there is no space!!! How the heck did you guys put a jumper cable in there??? What happens with the all the pins that go into the connector when you have the jumper cable in?

I had power window issues with my 03 accord. First the passenger the driver side stopped working. I troubleshot To what I beleived was window regulator motor malfunction. dealer wanted 1150 to repair both windows. I order parts for both from 1aauto.com (for 140 total.) With 3 hrs, YouTube and a friend I repaired both windows. It wasn't extermely difficult.

Do you have a picture of the wire jump you placed?

I had the same problem so I took Daniel's advice and now they work just fine! Thanks Daniel

I also have the non working front passenger & rear window

I also have the non working front passenger & rear windows. I contacted the NHTSA re this problem & filed a complaint in hopes this would result in a recall. Too many Honda owners have this same issue with their vehicles. Honda should provide the fix at no charge. Especially since the issue does result from a worn out part. This issue could also involve a glitch in the car's computer & electrical system. My problem started after using my key remote to lower my windows. As owners of these good cars we shouldn't have to jump thru hoops to get this resolved. Everyone having this issue should file a complaint with NHTSA.

I ordered a switch for 65 bucks from switchdoctor.net. im going to install it today and it also cames with directions on how to reprogram auto up/down feature and keyless entry and other functions.

New switch fixed the problem. MAKE SURE YOU REPROGRAM YOUR KEY BEFORE DRIVING CAR!!! I didn't and my alarm was going off non stop

I found that that after putting a new switch in (eventually) I have to be really close to my car for the fob to work. I put a new battery in and still like 2 ft max any thoughts? Wrong battery perhaps. Auto zone isn't the best

DOUBLE CHECK THE CHILD LOCK It may save you from looking like an ass in front of your wife and a couple of mechanics.

This works. Thanks to those above who suggested it. It didn't disable the child safety lock either. I haven't found ANY negative consequences from having done this!

YES. I took it to the Honda place and they wanted 500 dollars to replace the master switch. Using this pic and the above comments as a guide, I hooked up the green and black wires and now all 4 windows work! (All but driver's side weren't working.) I also just cut up an old charger to get a wire. No soldering here - twisting did the trick. THANK YOU!

Just for everyone who is using the jump wire fix.... this causes the switch to constantly draw a trickle of power from the battery even when not in use. So if you leave your car for a few days it will kill your battery. I went on vacay for a week and came back to a dead battery. Just an FYI. And to the guy who used an unshielded paper clip.... you're lucky you didn't have a car fire. Be safe

What is the exact switch you are doing the fix to? I assume it's in the driver side door?

No, Thom. The driver's door was the only one that worked at all. The wireover job made them all work again. And as far as draining the battery, it doesn't and I have found no negative consequences from having done it.

What switch did u wire over is what I am asking. Where is it?

Just like in the pic posted by Cobbler above, I did it and poof... like magic everything works. Don't know if it drains battery yet since I just fixed it today. Everyone should just fix this without replacing the master switch because you would have to re-prog some of the features. The thing NOT to do is to dismantle the master control switch. You can connect the jumper cable without touching/dismantling anything else. Also, to be on the safe side, I wrap all the exposed wires with plastic tape (any 99c cheap tape seem to do the trick). Shame on Honda for not fixing this despite substantial complaints.

did as the pic said and wallah... it works!

Thanks Cobbler for posting the picture it sure did help a lot.

Can anyone tell me where the switch is located? In the door? Under the hood? Dash??

#Thom: It's the main 4-way switch in the driver's door. #Regal Fineboy: You're welcome. Glad to help!

I have a 91 Honda Accord EX that I had for quite awhile N my driver side door works N my passenger side did but the back doors haven't worked, I have straight wired all three passenger windows N they work but will not work with button on each door or with driver door button have switches buttons on the three N still don't work. Can anyone give me a hint to wat has happened and also cud I try the jumper idea spoke of on this yr of car? Thanks! Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Do what cobbler pic says two black wires to the green and yellow wire it works, untill u have enough to get a main switch i tried it works thanks for the pic cobbler quick and easy.

Thank you cobbler for the picture and Daniel for the the wire over solution! As a smoker solving this problem was critical.... I own a 2007 Honda Accord. With any electrical work you should first disconnect the battery to avoid a short and blowing a fuse. I used a lighter to strip a small section of each of the wires described in cobblers picture, then cannibalized an old charger for the for the splice wire, I twisted and tightly braided the wires then wrapped them with a hardy bit of electrical tape. Be sure to insulate the wire splice with something(electrical tape wire nut rubber strip of duct tape). I believe the battery drainage issue stems from the splice becoming grounded or touching the relay itself. I have not had the battery drainage issue but if I do I will post with the problem and solution. Attached is a YouTube video for accessing the drivers side window control module. I also attached cobblers picture. https://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2015/09/2 1/21/43/pic-1879759851817501619- 1600x1200.jpeg http://youtu.be/bEzq4HrRYuI

THANK YOU COBBLER!!!!!!!!! OMG.....OMG.... THE BLACK TO THE 3RD WORKED ....IM SO HAPPY. THANK YOU!!!!

2007 honda accord window switch has any one had any problems when connecting the wire together like cobbler said? Any bad notes?

8 months later and still no detectable problems, still works perfectly.

Guys, Same problem with my 2006 Accord. I lowered all four windows using the key remote, and only the driver's window would operate thereafter. The other three would not work from the driver's door or from their separate door switches. Turned out I had inadvertently hit the window lockout switch; when I reset it, all worked normally. I've never owned a car where the window lockout switch disabled any windows from the driver's door, much less three out of four, but that's how the Honda is wired. Before you attempt any of the jump wire fixes suggested or buy a new master switch, check the lockout button. Closely.

How do you unlock the lock out switch?

Hey everyone I have the same problem in my 05 Accord coupe. I bought a new master switch and I was so happy that I came 3 days earlier than expected. Replaced it but the passenger window still doesn't work with the new switch. You can hear the clicking at passenger window switch. I'm so. Upset I was for sure the switch would fix the problem. I'm guess my next step would be to replace the MOTOR? HELP!

Thanks, Daniel!!! This also works for Honda Odyssey. Looks like they have the same switch.

Hi guys I was having the same problem with my 07 Accord's windows so I took it to a garage and the guy connected two wires on the switch and the windows started working. I don't know which wires he connected but he did tell me that the switch is faulty. The windows work perfectly but there a few thing that I noticed and wanted to know if others have also seen these: 1. when I open the driver's door it does not show on the display that the door is open. the display shows for all the other doors and the trunk so I guess the display is ok. also after unlocking my car if I open the driver's door the car still locks after sometime but that doesn't happen if I open any other door. it is as if the car does not recognize the driver door or it being open. 2. When I use the window lock button the windows don't roll down from the driver's door buttons but they still roll down from the other door switches. It is as if the lock button only works for the driver's door buttons. Has anybody else noticed these things after they jumped the wires? If it is only me then how can I solve these problems? also sorry for the long post.

Yes - Saifmaniar mine did this too "2. When I use the window lock button the windows don't roll down from the driver's door buttons but they still roll down from the other door switches. It is as if the lock button only works for the driver's door buttons." I haven't noticed my driver door light being faulty though.

the cobbler works thanks i went to auto zone & got a pack of 18-14 gauge quick splices for 2'99 put 1 wire in each slot pressed down & clamped it done no cutting no burning of wires it was so easy

RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Move the driver's window all the way down by using the driver's window DOWN switch. 3. Open the driver's door. NOTE: steps 4 - 7 must be done within 5 seconds of each other. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 5. Push and hold the driver's window DOWN switch. 6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 7. Release the driver's window DOWN switch. 8. Repeat steps 4 - 7 three more times. 9. Wait 1 second. 10. Confirm that AUTO UP and AUTO DOWN do not work. If AUTO UP and DOWN work, go back to step 1. 11. Move the driver's window all the way down by holding the driver's window DOWN switch to the AUTO DOWN position. 12. Pull up and hold the driver's window UP switch to the AUTO UP position until the window reaches the fully closed position, then continue to hold the switch for 1 second. 13. Confirm that the power window master switch is reset by using the driver's window AUTO UP and DOWN function. If the window still does not work in AUTO, repeat the procedure several times, paying close attention to the 5 second time limit between steps. If it still does not work, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A.

My 03 coupe does not have that wiring configuration. #1 terminal is black but #2 is light green. I do not understand this problem as ALL diagrams show 2 black wires occupying the first 2 terminals on the master switch.

image of my connector, the jumping of these wires does not work..

@Doe, it does look slightly different but mostly the same to me. You connected #1 and #3 didn't you?

I can't seem to find the pic. The link is not opening.

Reply someone... all my Windows not working and I need to try the jumper thing.

Cobbler... Yes I jumped them... the 2003 /coupe is different as the ground comes from the master switch and not body ground. I have accomplished getting the passenger door operational by jumping the 12v hot lead from the yellow/red wire adjacent to the green /black in the passenger door switch. This gives me passenger window control ONLY through the passenger door switch. Apparently I have an open circuit between the master switch and the passenger / rear power window relay. The grounding of that circuit operates the master switches control of the rest of the windows by closing the circuit of that relay.

BTW, FYI, the left door window does not use that power window relay for it's operation. Only the passenger and in case of 4 door the rear windows. Also the child safety lock out cuts the ground to that relay to prevent operation by kids. If your lock out is defective this will cause the windows not to function. If you listen carefully when engaging the child lock out and disengaging you should hear the relay clicking under the left of dash above the fuse box. The relay is hidden above the fuse block. You have to remove the entire kick panel to get to the relay.

Doe, is that yo reset the passenger windows and back window the steps you added , or just to reset the driver window. I jumped all the window like the other comment said worked fine but want to just have it normal .

MATA: The reset is for the 'auto' up and down for the 'drivers window' and for the remote to control the windows. when replacing the master switch if doing so killed those features. If you jumped the connectors(cobblers way) you have just improved the grounding circuit of the power windows. It is still 'normal" per say, just improved the original design. If you did what I did and have control only from the individual door switches, then you could have an open / shorted wire between the child lock button or a bad kid lock switch on the driver master switch. Hope this helps.

ussi, we cant' help you fix a setting in your browser, as we don't know what one you are using and this isn't an IT thread. If you are not seeing the images there is something up with your browser.

I tried the Cobbler method on a 2006 Accord, and it fixed the back windows but the passenger side is still not working. The passenger side clicked, eventually went down, and it took forever to get it to go back up. It is currently not cooperating at all. Is there another way to get the front passenger window operational again?

Can anyone repost the picture? I don't see it. Thanks

Doe, thanks for the additional info. So i was able to use the jumper cable to fix the issue. The thing I find weird is that I had access to another driver panel from another 07 accord - when i replaced it with the original from my car all windows worked! Its as if the issue is in the driver control panel But if I understand correctly, the relay that you mention is defective is the one you mention that is hidden near the fusebox. To properly fix this issue would pulling the relay and checking for the issue there be the proper solution? How difficult would this be?

simsin, If you have replaced/exchanged the drivers door window control switch and everything worked, then the problem is probably in the other . There have been numerous problems with window switch control units internal grounding from the PCB inside that driver control unit. The relay has to be functioning as it controls the other 3 doors ( 4 door) (passenger door if a coup). If the other doors are working then the relay is working, However, That relay is not used to control the driver door window (no relay involved) . Getting to it is only problematic because the trim panel surrounding the fuse box has to be removed to get to it. Other than that, it just plugs in like a fuse would. It appears you do not have to do this.

The "cobbler" method works thanks...i only connected the 1st black wire to the 3rd green/yellow wire and everything works perfect.. but i notice you also connected the 2nd black wire...? Should i be concerned?

i recently got a new switch, and everything works except the driver window does'nt go down or up, and i tried jumping the wht/grn wire to the blk ground wire to see if it worked and it did'nt make mine work unfortunately, but at least i tried. my car is an 03 accord coupe LX, and originally the buttons were broken on my original switch, so i had to buy a new switch from honda, so my switch is new and good, and i was able to open and close the driver window with the old switch, by removing the window open/close buttons, and stick a thin metal stick inside the hole where the buttons were, and use it to slide the little white plastic slider inside the slots in the circuit board to open or close the window, but later on i noticed that the drivers window would'nt open or close anymore using that method, and i was wondering if its possible i could of shorted something in the system out while doing that ?, using that metal stick to put in and move the sliders ?, cause some of the time i would just stick it in there as i was driving without looking inside to line it up, and i would just be guessing by feel, as to where it was and stuff, and that was'nt a good idea. the fuses are good and relay good too. i tried testing the window motor on drivers side, going by the steps in the helms manual, and i think i did it right ?, i hooked test leads with clips to the pos & neg clamps on my portable jumpbox and put small nails in the clips at the other ends of the test leads and stuck them in pin 1 and pin 4 of the 6P connector which i unplugged from the motor, and put pos and neg according to the chart and pressed the window button and it did'nt do anything? but seems like if motor was bad, i would of had some signs or symptoms leading up to it failing ?, such as seeing the window get slower while going down ?, or that kind of thing ?, and it was'nt, and was previously working perfectly, and only problem was the broken plastic buttons on the switch ?, its just frustrating and i've become obsessed with trying to find out the cause of this !, it gets stuck in my head and is real hard for me to just drop it, even know i am not real experienced with electrical troubleshooting, but i do what i can to test things, going by manuals or the internet to go by. i have a feeling it might be something in the wiring maybe ?, cause after testing the different color wires in the harness going to the switch, with a test light, some of them did'nt show any voltage when it said they supposed to show it ?, the test light lit up while probing at the red/blk wire as i pressed the window down button, and the grn/wht wire and the yellow wire both lit up and showed voltage while key was to the "ON" position. i don't think any of the others showed any voltage ? any help or opinions on what i can check or what could cause this, i would really appreciate it.

blkcoupe808: Did you check both locations of fuses? One under the kick panel on the drivers side under dash AND under hood in the engine compartment fuse box? By sticking that metal strip in the switch, you could have easily shorted the circuit and blew a fuse.

t48135 : THANK YOU for the solution and the laugh! All I had to do was turn the safety switch off. I don't ever use it and never thought of it. I was reading in the car and must have turned it on when my arm was on the armrest.

Doe, thanks for trying to help guide me in fixing my problem, but my mechanic friend looked at it a few days ago and found out the motor was burned out, from me not sliding the little slider inside the slot on the circuit board, where it was lined up to the center mark every time after i used it, so he said it was as if i held the window up button and just held it there constantly, even know the window was up and there was'nt any more room for it to go up with, and therefore burned up the motor. he removed the window motor and regulator, and took apart the motor and sanded the brushes inside down a certain degree and put it back together and put it in and the motor worked again!, and he did it for free, so i was happy, but who knows how long the motor will last after sanding the brushes down ?, but i guess i will see.

greart help my question 2008 accord is there only the 1 screw in the panel holding the control panel in//? APPEARS TO BE A PLACE IN FRONT OF PANEL THAT COULD HAVE A SRCREW UNDER IT BUT CAN T SEEM TO GET IT OPEN HOW TO GET PANEL OUT//?

i went on majestic honda website and looked up the parts for a 2008 accord, and selected the catagory "door lining" or front door lining", and thats where it shows the parts diagram picture that has the master power window switch in it, and it looks like there are maybe 1-3 screws that point up underneath the switch unit, but can't really tell where exactly they go by the picture ?

Hi Doe, I have a 2004 coupe. Could you explain how do we jump ours for my passenger side window to work? Do i do 1 and 3 or different sets of wires? Please let me know.

Safai: 1 2 and 3... "IF' your problem lies in the master switch on the left door. The passenger doors (and rear doors on the sedan) operate off the relay under the left kick panel above the fuse block. This could be your problem. If the wiring in the right door is the same as my 2003, you can temporarily check to see if its a relay problem by jumping the yellow/red (12v hot) wire (next to the green/black) to the green /black in the 'right' door switch connector. This will supply that switch with 12v and will operate the door ONLY from that switch. (with the ignition on). Don't leave this jumped it could cause other problems. Make sure your child safety lock-out is working and it is off. It's the thumb button with red/orange stripe on it located on the left master switch panel. Also your fuses. You have individual door fuses in the kick panel on the left inside under dash AND under the hood fuse area. Hope this helps.

Doe, my driver window does'nt work again !, previously i posted i got a new master switch for my 03 accord, but the drivers window did'nt work but everything else did fine, and my friend found out the motor was burned out, and he sanded down the contacts on the motor somehow, and got it working again using the same motor, but recently i went to try it at a drive-thru and it does'nt work again !, so would you say its best for me to just get a whole new motor ?, or a used one in good condition ? or should i try to sand those contacts down a second time ?

jonathan: Yeah... get a new one, don't go with the cheapest you can find if you can. You don't have to buy a 'honda' oem but you get what you pay for. The modification to the old motor was a temporary fix at best.

alright thanks for the quick reply, i'll take that advise and i had a feeling it would be better off with getting a new one, especially since the drivers side window is the one used the most, and even more being a smoker, and its just something you want to work and be as reliable as it can be, and with a used one, you would'nt have that piece of mind, cause you would'nt know how long it would last and work for?, and possibly go out soon?, but i have a feeling new power window motors are expensive?, but i'll have to start checking around, but would you say there is a big difference in quality between a honda oem motor vs. some other brand motor ?, i mean would it be better going with an oem one? cause people say that about everything else it seems. thanks for your help

Jonathan: The left (front on a sedan) is the most likely to go out, you're right its the most used. Sometimes the others go out from lack of use and lock up in the track. Then people lean on the switches thinking its going to make it move through force, Its a human thing. Sometimes breaking the switch AND burning out the motor. When you get the part you will get the entire mechanism, referred to as the "Window Regulator":. EBay, Amazon, and I use on occasion, www.parkhondaoemparts.com. Even AutoZone and others carry the part. The good thing about local purchase is the warranty. Good Luck

oh, so when you buy the motor, you have to buy the whole regulator assembly, which the motor is attached to ?, is that what your saying ? if so, i did'nt know, why could'nt you just buy only the motor part itself ? would'nt that be cheaper ?

Jonathan: If you look closely you will see that the guide assembly and track are permanently attached to the motor. You can take the motor apart but actually removing it would be extremely difficult if at all. Then reassembly would be next to impossible if you accidently moved any of the pieces as not they would be out of sync and the window wouldn't go all the way up or all the way down. Some early GM models allowed you to remove the motor and buy separately, however I have not seen a honda regulator for quite some time come this way. The price for a GM motor back in the day was 30 bucks, the complete regulator was 45... with all new cabling and 'plastic' guide parts... if you catch my drift.

yeah i get what your saying, at first i thought that my friend who fixed it by sanding the contacts inside the motor, just removed only the motor, but now that i think of it, i think he slid the whole regulator assembly with motor out of the door, and worked on it from there. from reading all the multiple problems everyone seems to have online with the power windows and switches on the 03-07 accords, it almost makes me just wish they were manual roll-up type windows and forget worrying about anything going wrong, like i have in my 90 crx, i don't mind roll-up type windows, is there any way you have heard of to be able to convert the accord power windows so they are manual, roll-up style windows ?, or doing something like that ? just wondering if its possible or if so, how hard it would be ?

another thing i thought of is, would there be any way to just use the working good motor out of the passenger side door window and use to put in for the driver side ? or not ?

No, the motor mounting would be reversed, and looking at my old regulator assembly, The motor assemblies from all venders is twice the cost of the regulator. Autozone shows a motor price @ 110.00 and regulator @78.00... ebay shows regulators from 35 - 125$ - no motors separately. It appears that the mounting brackets cannot be exchanged either. The motors gear direction and position is mirrored. You could go to a salvage yard and get one or even convert it to a manual and get rid of the motor assembly completely. Modifying the door panel trim to accept the crank handle. The door frames should be the same.

thanks for the info, i want to search and see if theres a post from someone who did convert power windows on accord to manual roll-up kind ?, and just see what they say, as far as describing what is involved and stuff....?, and it seems that power window components would be more valuable than manual window parts ?, since they are electronic and have the master switch panels and all that, so it seems like you could make the money back for what you paid for getting all the parts to convert it to manual, assuming your power window parts all are in good working order, maybe i can just do a manual conversion to just my drivers door ?, leaving the pass. one as power, cause really thats what makes power windows convenient, how you don't have to lean all the way over to reach the passenger window crank and roll the window down anymore, and only have to press a button, but the driver window never bothered me when having to roll it down manually, cause its easy since its in reach, the majority of the time, if i do roll the driver window down, i put it down only around 3"-5", to get fresh air or when smoking, but more if getting food from drive-thru, or using a keypunch to gain entry some place like a storage unit or apartment complex,

I have to do this fix for a friend's 2008 Accord 4-door. Can I get the master switch out of the door without removing the door panel? Or does the door panel need to come off?

dagonic: I am familiar up to the 2007, the switches are held in by push in clips... I believe the 2008 is the same. You have to carefully pry up from the outside rear of the escutcheon. Lift up and back.

I have a slightly different problem and would apprecaite some advice on how to solve it. I bought an 07 Accord 2 months ago, It had the window switch replaced 1 year ago because only the driver window worked. All windows worked when I bought it but now when I roll up the driver's window using the auto up feature, it will roll down about 2" after going all the way up. It will repeat this pattern whenever I use the auto up control. The window doesn't drop/fall, but appears to roll down like the down button had been pressed as I can hear the motor still running. The window will roll up and stay up using the manual up. The remote auto roll down feature works fine when I use the FOB.

boilerMaker: If I had to take the first guess, I would say that the window sensor is detecting that it has come into contact with something and the safety feature is auto rolling it back down. If the window is binding in any way it will cause a false trigger. 2nd guess: The programming of the auto up and down is corrupt. try to reset it. Do each bullet in step 4 within 5 seconds of each other. The front passenger's power window must be reset from the front passenger's power window switch. 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Move the power window all the way down by using the power window DOWN switch. 3. Open the driver's door. 4. Do the following three times before going to step 5: * Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). * Push and hold the power window DOWN switch. * Turn the ignition switch ON (II). * Release the power window DOWN switch. 5. Confirm that AUTO UP no longer works. If AUTO UP still works, go back to step 1. 6. Move the power window all the way down using the power window DOWN switch. 7. Pull up and hold the power window UP switch until the power window is all the way up, then continue to hold the switch for 1 second. 8. Confirm that the power window control unit is reset by using the power window AUTO UP and AUTO DOWN function. If the power window still does not work in AUTO, repeat the procedure several times, paying close attention to the 5 second time limit between steps.

Thanks Doe. I ran my finger around the edge of the seal and found nothing. I then sprayed the side tracks with silicone. While the window went up/down smoother, it still rolled down when I used the auto up. I'll try the reset procedure this weekend and follow-up with you. Sorry this is leading down a different path than the original question. I thought it may be related.

I've got the same problem as Chad. I have a 2005 accord coupe and my passenger window will not go down. However it does make a clicking noise when u attempt to bring it down. The driver side window cooperates mostly but not all the time. Quite often I'll try to lower my driver window and it won't go; then I'll wait maybe 15 seconds or 30 sometimes and it will. However I'm mostly concerned about getting the passenger window to go down. Anybody?

To expose this "switch" and add a jumper do I have to remove the entire driver side door panel or can I access it through the armrest? (2006 Accord)

jeffin its easier to do the job if you take the panel off... if the loom retainers are all in place, you wont have a lot of slack to move the connector around...

I have a 2006 Accord and had the same experience. Drivers side window works but the other 3 do not. I too got a clicking noise but no movement from the 3 windows. I carefully used a putty knife to take the panel off, access the switch, and there are 2 connecters. I got 1 connecter off, which was the smaller one (side mirrors), could not for the life of me get the larger connector off. I then put the keys back in the ignition, I tried the windows again and they worked! I did not replace anything, my best guess is that a wire might be a bit loose, and while wrestling with it to get the connecters off I may have put it back in place. Anyway, I was able to get my passenger window back up, all windows, locks and mirrors work. Not real sure what I did but before replacing anything I would try to do what I did. Zero cost and took about 20 minutes of my time. More than likely I will not use the 3 windows much simply because I don't trust it. Nothing worse than having a window down and possible rain/storms on the way...

You probably did what you said.. fix a corroded connection between the grounds and the switch. If you could not get the connector off... you may have a burnt connector and it welded one or two connectors together. It can happen when small kids in the car push the switches and hold them down heating up the circuit or people resting their forearms on top also. Glad you got it figured out..

Hi Doe, i m a noob with cars so please bear.. i have a 2001 honda civic and and both of my rear windows don't work.. the rear switch doesn't work and using the driver master switch doesn't do anything.. i noticed that initially only rear right had this issue then few minutes later rear left stopped working.. any clue what's going on ? Thanks

sahil..... not that familiar with that year and model. I would start at the fuse block and check that all are good. Later years had two different locations for window fuses. under hood and under dash. Each having its own fuse. Fuses don't blow for no apparent reason, so replacing them won't necessarily fix the problem. Motor/regulators go bad, and sometimes one after the other, like headlights, age factor playing the key. If the fuses are good, I would suspect the relay(s) this is where I do not know how exactly the circuit is laid out. You would have to google a schematic for it. I will check my library of schematics to see if I have one for that model/year.

Have a 2005 accord sedan, slightly had my windows cracked open in the rain the other day and I'm guessing maybe some water got in. The windows all worked that day because I rolled them up when I realized after about 2 hours of light rain. Next day only drivers side window worked. Like others I only hear a click when trying to roll down other 3. Should I replace the switch or try the jumper?

I checked all fuses and all are okay. I did notice under the hood there is 40 fuse instead of the 50 that's recommended in my manual. I suspect that's okay though since it's been there for maybe 12 years. I just picked up 14-18 gauge quick splices at autozone and will try that out first.

The 18-14 gauge quick splice worked! This thread is full of awesome people, thanks for all your input. I'm still curious if I should only use this as a temporary fix (and still replace the main switch) or leave as is with the splice? P.S. Check out the Honda airing out with the windows down today!

So this thread was very helpful. The jump wire worked perfectly though there may be something to reports that it being a constant drain on the battery. When I hooked it up, I immediately heard a click with no key in the ignition so it now has some sort of constant power. The battery was dead a week later. Truth be told, this vehicle is sitting and will be sold soon. Perhaps if there's a drain on the battery, it's not noticed if the car is driven on a regular basis. As I said, this thread was very helpful in identifying the problem and ruling out the motors. If there is in fact a drain on the battery, I will replace the switch and remove the jumper wire.

G9CR - This 'drain' I believe is necessary for remote activation using the key fob keyless entry.

2008 Honda Odyssey- I used the black wire to green/white wire jumper solution to fix my three passenger windows which not working. Worked like a charm, BUT now my automatic sliding side doors have stopped!

try the reset procedure posted above... keep in mind that this is for a 2003 accord... maybe the same, link to odyssey---https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wTNR1w7gPNE

If you look at the wiring diagram there is a separate relay for the passenger and rear windows. there are three separate fuses. I f there is no power at the the fuses the relay is probably bad

I have an 06 Accord with the same issue. Will try rhe Cobbler and Doe method. Will let you guys know how it turns out.

my windows have been toast for years now...now my sunroof wont go back, it attempts to, but I dare not try too much more just in case it gets stuck on open and won't close back....any thoughts on that issue?

Angel: In regards to your sunroof, make sure that all debris are removed from the track, use compressed air if possible then some WD40 to loosen the junk accumulated around the position switches in the back and sides of the tracks. When done some white lithium spray grease on the tracks, using sparely. depending on the year (google your year if this is incorrect)---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/86-9th-generation/337946-moonroof-reset-procedure.html

I have replaced the master switch and that did not fix the window problems as explained by others. Is the jump the only answer?

GuruZNMP1: Unfortunately This problem Is a wiring grounding problem within the electrical system. Somewhere within the loom a ground has been severed. My best guess is in the door jam area where the loom passes through into the door. This kills the ground plain on the PCB in the master switch. This is MHO, and is speculation as I have never found the culprit, and now the grandkids Accord is among the dead in the wrecking yard.(thanks to yet another uninsured, unlicensed 18 yo out with daddy's SUV w/ permission) But I digress, so the jumper creates a new path for the ground. It will activate the relay, but that is always the case with remote door and/or start,

The local auto parts store consultant suggested that this not be done for fear of an electrical fire and short. What are your thoughts?

well from experience in this forum and in others, it has never caused undo battery drain nor fire, not even a heated wire situation. You are merely giving the ground a new path so that the master switch can function. In actuality the fact that the master has no ground is a cause for concern, so far as an electrical fire goes. This circuit is protected by MANY fuses. You could increase this protection, if you wish by using a fused jumper. Get an inline fuse connector with two leads and a push in fuse.

My Accord is a 2007. 3 windows out except driver. Clicks on the 3 not working. So power was available, they were getting a signal but not flowing electricity, so the analysis of a lost ground makes much sense. I used the splices mentioned by phillip07 (about one year ago) and it worked perfectly. Get the 18-14 quick splices and remove the flashing inside which provides a block/end to one of the wires. Open it up, cutting it back/out - easy to do. Splice the two wires, just as the Cobbler picture shows and you are done. For information on removal of the switch assembly, see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U944r88-kkQ. I used a plastic tool against the clips on the OUTSIDE of the switch housing - opposite to the back window switches and the front well for the front switches, then released the top clip and it was out with a bit of persuasion. Overall, this was an easy fix. Everything is working fine, including the roll-down of all 4 windows.

Hi everyone. I would NOT recommend jumping pins 1-3 except as a quick-fix. It does indeed drain the battery with 80mA passing through my ammeter. The real problem is that on teh circuit board, vibrations and poor plastic mount design cause the laminate to wear through, exposing a trace. When moisture gets in (which will happen over time) the trace corrodes and the plastic easily breaks the trace, causing this notorious "driver works, but none of the other 3 do but I still hear relay clicks coming from those doors" problem. The real solution is to solder to fix the trace and trim plastic to prevent future problems. A coat of super glue over the trace or electrical tape is a good idea after fixing. If this type of work isn't in the cards, then you can find a used one. go to car-part.com and search "window switch (front door)" -> "driver's, window (master)" $40-$50. You can remove your radio control module and swap if you want (and not have to reprogram) - but that requires removal of the circuit board. thread with detailed info: http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/47505-power-window-problems- anyone-4.html

Alex... first of all. if you have read MANY of the answers and questions, you will find replacing the master switch (either used or new) does not fix the problem. Secondly, if you have any kind of remote start / door opening system, this 'drain' is present as the relay and receiver has to be live in order for that system to work.

Doe, MANY of the users report that replacing the master switch actually works! If it doesn't the Power Window Relay is likely defective or the corresponding fuse is blown. As the for the "drain" being present, this is false - shorting pins 1 and 3 bypasses the relay that would otherwise only be energized ONLY when the transmitter allows - the circuit is not "live" during standby. attached is a schematic for Odyssey 07-08.

First of all, this is a thread about 1st Gen accords for the most part, at least this is where my comments were limited and also the original person that suggested the fix. Secondly, all the 'references' to buying a switch and it fixing their problem, start out by stating, I have a different problem or similar problem. No doubt that in some cases it is the switch. Your diagnoses of 80mA is not the common drain amounts (again on the accords) and in 07 and up (various models at different years) the system was dramatically changed and the odyssey was completely different. The design of the master is of a completely new production model. The relays 'on the 1st Gen accords' were rarely the cause even after 15 years. I have had the patch in my 03 for almost 1 1/2 years with no battery problems whatso ever. Now granted I live in CA and don't have to deal with subzero temps, but then again those temp will weed out weak batteries regardless of this patch. Lastly, If the switch or relay was 'always' the fix, then this thread would not even been started. Certainly wouldn't be chronic over many early years and specific models. This is just one web page, do a search and you will find 10x the posts. I believe that there is a difference in the relays of the older accords, they were a 2 stage relay not just single which may be the reason your example of an 'out of subject' model reacted different. I don't think the wiring is even close to the 1st Gen accords, which would definitely cause unforeseen problems.

here you go: 2006 Accord. same function, bridging 1-3 energizes the power window relay by skipping the door multiplex unit (which has a broken trace), leading to drain. I remeasured mine to 100mA. Small, but 1-1.5x normal drain. So one could say your battery would drain approx twice as fast with this hack. https://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Honda-Prelude-Accord-Civic-S2000-2001- 2006/Wiring-Diagrams/Wiring-Diagrams-71-of-136/_/P-0996b43f80375289

ok alex,, you get the last word...however riddle me this.. if you have a old accord and the freakin windows don't go down in 100 degree temps.. a new switch @ 120$ doesn't fix the problem, and the local mechanic can't fix it.. what dose the average person do?, that can't afford a new car, or someone butchering around in the loom, dealer and honda won't recognize a recallable item, and your 3 year old is screaming in the back seat because they are exasperating in the heat. Listen to your over use of technical jargon to feel superior and the need to be right about something?, OR fix the thing with little or no consequences FOR 4 bucks worth of wire? AND if you have a little bit of knowledge put a two pole switch in between, and when your done driving for the day.. break the circuit? Enough already... smh.. the internet is full of people little 'practical' knowledge and full of armchair experts. and forget about the FACT that my accord has operating windows, has had operating windows for almost two years, AND never has failed to start because of a dead battery...

it is your car and you are welcome to do as you please, BUT if you insist on encouraging others with this method, be sure to caveat emptor. I'd be happy knowing that if I go on a trip twice as long, my battery will still be ready when I return. I do think that putting a switch in between is an acceptable solution, but if you're going to solder anyway you may as well just fix the trace and be done with it.

Ebay is the best! Check that its compatible with your key fob !!!

(today is 24 juin 20018) Cobbler answer 2 years ago (see above) Whit a photo of a connextion wire for windows that do not work on a accord 2003 (three windows, the helper one and the rear windows. i punch a needle through the wire no1 and wire no 2. And all the windows works fine. I take off the needle. And that reset the main thing. All is ok. IT IS NOT NESCESSARY FOR SOLDERING!! THE MAIN THING FOR THE WINDOWS IS RESET. BELEVE ME!

I used a fork connector end to connect wire #1 and #3 on my mother-in-law's 2006 Accord. It's the perfect width and you and shove the forks between the housing and wire ends. No splicing or soldering necessary.

This is the fork connector I used as described above

After seeing Andy's fork connector....I took a 3 amp fuse and jammed it in the 1 and 3 slot and it worked like a charm....I have a 2007 Honda Accord and couldn't find a matching power window master switch so this was a great work around...

I have a question. I have the problem discussed above but in reverse. Only the passenger window rolls down. It works from both driver and passenger switch. No other windows work. Would the splice work? It is for a 91 Honda Accord.

1st you need to verify if the motors in the other windows actually work or not. In the instance of the issues most of the other people here were having, you could hear clicking at the motor switch. If you aren't hearing anything at all...you need a little more diagnosis.

I second to jumping 1 & 3 using a push-in 15A mini fuse holder on my 07 Accord V6, it works like a charm! I used wiretaps instead of soldering since I can’t bring a soldering iron to my parking lot, I don’t have a garage and very long extension cord... I live in a 2nd floor apartment complex building! The second I connected the two points on the harness, I heard a “click” from behind my dashboard, I thought “hey, I guess that engaged the switch!” I put the key in and hit the window switch...a koolaid smile from ear- to-ear! Although I am alittle concerned about the battery drainage. Should I just wait and see what happens or should I just get a replacement master window switch and patch up the cuts from the wiretap?

Thanks to everyone here windows work great again !!! Just did the jumper trick and all is good again! Easy peasy!!

The jump pin 1 to pin 3 worked on my 2007 honda accord. I dont know if it will drain your battery or not but I know there is constant power to the windows because I can roll them down without the key being in a fwd position.

Hi Doe and everyone.great thread. 07 accord. Driver window came down half way.stopped. Dash lights fuel gauge etc quit at same time. No windows work. Checked fuses.car starts and runs fine. Any tips appreciated. Need window up and fuel gauge

Where is the Right Rear window Relay Located on a 2006 Honda Accord EX-L.....All windows work from there Switches on there doors but the right rear wont go down from the Master Switch it will go up if i use the switch from that rr door to roll down. What is the FIX ? Could it be a relay if so where would that relay be located at ?

Try plugging in mini fuse in position 1 black and position 3 white green.. I used a 7 amp that way its safer then a hard wire connection... worked for me... as far as battery draining not sure... will see. With mine.. the child protection works when I do this.. I push button and 3 windows do not work, push again and 3 windows work. I assume if I keep the button in this position where the 3 windows do not work … in child protect mode ...no battery draining happens. Guess will find out, but beats going for a new part if this work.. Hope this helps.

Cobbler's jump worked on my 2006 Ridgeline. I used the wire from a twist-tie -- couldn't get the 3 amp fuse to make the connection. Thanks so much all! I had that Kool-Aid grin too, when it worked: nice project to do with my son. I include the Ridgeline wiring harness -- looks about the same, but our wire looked a little whiter than the wire in Cobbler's picture. Andy

I used Cobbler's method for my 07 Accord and it worked perfectly! I did use a fuse in my jump because it was only $4 to get a fused wire connection at Auto-Zone. Thanks everyone!!!

I have a 1992 accord lx replaced master window switch and regulator and motor on passenger's side and passenger side still dont work. Does it have a fuse for just that side

Hey Doe, or anyone else who may help: If I use a 2007 Honda accord DX-G master switch to replace the faulty 2007 EX-L (2.4) switch would there be any compatibility issues? Thanks!

That picture and the description worked perfectly to solve the described issue

05 Accord sedan. Same as Jose above, my rear windows go up with the master but they won't go down. They work fine from their own switches up and down. the malfunctionIt first happened with one rear, then months later with the other. Child safety lock is off and i tried the 1-3 jumper wire out of desperation, too but no change. Tried a known working replacement master from another car and tested mine in the other car. They both worked fine in the other car. Made no difference in my car.

I also have a 2007 Accord and at one point was having the same exact issues where driver window was the only one that worked. But then after some time even the driver window stopped working. I plan on trying to Cobbler method so hopefully that still works and my issue isnt something else

Update, I did the jump short as shown in the pictures and now all passenger windows work but driver side still doesn’t. If this is all that’s possible I’ll gladly take it, but if anyone has any ideas I’ll take them. Driver side window switch still clicks when I try to put the window down but no motion. I guess it could just be the motor but that’d be a weird coincidence I feel like

I found out the problem was one of the harnesses next to the fuse box by driver door were loose i pushed in all the harnesses and the windows started working again. Hope this helps someone

Thanks to all you who gave advice. Thank you to Alex as I think your answer fits my situation the best. For years I have had GHOST in my machine. A SWEET 06 Accord Coupe. I had a daily 2-3 hours drive and the windows sometimes driver sometimes passenger would roll up or down by themselves. At other time I would pull up to the fast food window and mine would not roll down, at first then it would. To make this shorter. They did all sorts of different things. Now here I am a bench tech and I have seen similar things to what Alex said about the lamination coming apart. I will take some pics after I take out the switch. I used to make a similar fix on laptop power port jacks all the time. I hope I get to pull out my Weller solder pencil!! :) We shall see.

I did same as others, connected first 3 wires and it drained the battery completely. Car doesn’t start now. I used soldering and then electrical tape on top, any suggestions? Thanks

I did the jumper wire fix about four years ago, thank you all who posted about that. I do know, If the car sits for more than two days, it won't start. Found that out when I parked it at the airport for a trip. It really wasn't an issue till I bought another car, SUV to drive in the winter and now if I don't run the Honda every other day it has to be charged up. Here is my question: If I want to fix it right so this battery drain stops, how do I do that? Order the switch? Or is it a ground issue?? Any help or suggestion is appreciated.

Cobbler's hack worked for me too. Those who are worried about battery drain are misunderstanding what (I think) this hack does. After some electrical testing, I think the issue we're all experiencing is a defective child lock switch. The child lock switch normally sends current to the other 3 window motors when NOT activated, and cuts that current when activated. When the child lock switch fails, current isn't sent to the other 3 window motors regardless of the position of that switch, so the motors refuse to operate. The hack simply adds current back in - permanently - so the child lock switch becomes inoperable. This hack is putting the car in the exact same position it is normally in when a working child lock switch is in the Unlocked position. The black wire we're tapping into doesn't carry current when the car is off (no engine or accessory mode). So this hack can't drain a battery any better than leaving a working child lock switch in the Unlocked mode with the car off would drain a battery. Only when the car receives accessory power is ignition on power does that black wire receive current, send the current to the other 3 motors the same way a working child lock sends current when in the Unlocked position, and all works. All you've changed by inserting this hack is removed the ability to Child Lock (e.g. disconnect current from wire 3 when car is on).

I have a 2005 model v6, 3.0 Honda accord the same problem only driver side window working and no other AND I FOUND THE SOLUTION As mine is a right hand drive car there is a fuse box near the accelerator padel and there exist a relay box in which a black relay showing PW this is the main cause of the problem. I removed that relay and took a simple wire and inserted one by one to the relay terminals (short or jump the relay connection) and tried to operate the windows and it worked. Now I am waiting for the same configuration relay for replacement. Or else I will just fix the wire with a proper fasner connection

ALL -- I did the jumper for the switch years ago. The car is NOT driven regularly, and after a few days, the battery drained. Removal of the jumper fixed that problem, but still left the back and front passenger windows inoperative. The fix is much easier than the jumper. Just BUY a new switch module, it only costs about $35. There are multiple suppliers. Mine came from SwitchDoctor and was a plug in that required a minimum of programming. Their site tells you how to program the auto function and the radio module. After dealing with dead batteries, driving the car just to charge the battery and repeated fixing and replacement of the jumper (removal to test battery drain), the simplest and most durable fix is so simply REPLACE the switch. Even if you do NOT reprogram, all the windows will work immediately. Just BUY the right switch and save your time and effort. My unit cost $37.50 delivered! Make your life easy - replace the switch, it ain't hard.

The 1st pin (black wire) to 3rd pin (green wire) also works on 2006 Acura TSX for anyone wondering

The jumper method definitely works, and it definitely drains your battery. I have had to jump my car so many times, I'm sure the battery is trashed. I ordered a new control unit. $30 on Amazon!

For all those people worried about the battery drain you can just use a small on- off push switch instead of a wire to join the 1st and 3rd pin. Just make sure the switch is on the outside and that you turned off when not in use. It looks weird but still better than the battery drain.

If you are going through that much trouble, just replace the damn switch - it is only $40 and easier to do than you think

Readable version with paragraph spacing as this site removes them.

Finally after months of research I was able to to figure out what really caused the click sound. The click that we hear is basically the switch that is turning on(controlled by microcontroller) but without the power supplied by the power relay the windows don't roll down. It is caused by a broken circuit as seen in the picture. There are basically 4 ways of fixing it. I will start with the easiest. Method 1: buy the switch just like @JakeyR said which cost $37 for the LX model from the switchdoctor.com ( does not work with EX model ) LInk: switchdoctor(dot)net/honda-accord-window- switch/honda-accord-master-power-window-switch-2003-2007/ Cons: some people have issues trying to re-program their key. Method 2: short the 1st (black) and 3rd (green) wire just like the people in this post did. It is extremely easy. ( link: youtube(dot)com/watch?v=Q52Hea4-MrU) Cons: shorting this wire actually completes the power relay circuit by connecting the power relay to the ground(shown in the picture) . This however removes the control from the microcontroller( 4th pin) to turn on/off the power relay . The microcontroller is designed to turn on the power relay only when the switches are pressed . But without this control the switch has power all the time which is causing the power drain reported by multiple people on this page. Explained in this video (link: youtube(dot)com/watch?v=6RTKsTAU4bs) Method 3: soldering the 3rd pin(from the second method) and the 4th pin of the microcontroller. This restores the connection of the power relay to the microcontroller allowing the microcontroller to control the switch. This 3rd pin is the same pin that eventually connects to the black wire( from the 2nd method) . This video explains how to disassemple the entire switch and how to solder the wire. ( link: youtube(dot)com/watch?v=hotWhazi5PE) Cons: using this method skips over a resistor( black one) . To be honest i don't know what it basically does. Method 4: TRY THIS ONLY IF YOU ARE REALLY CONFIDENT AND KNOW ABOUT CIRCUITS The circuit is broken as seen in the second picture. This can be fixed with the use of a conductive ink pen which is $6 on amazon (link: amazon(dot)com/dp/B00OZATJ3A ) . This hovewer is a little difficult and should be done carefully. The red line that you see in the pictures is the circuit that follows the 3rd pin to the 4th pin of the microcontroller. If you see that the circuit is broken like mine(2nd pic) use this method. step1: use the video from the 3rd method to remove the circuit board from the main switch board. step 2: figure out if there is a break in the circuit as seen in the pic step 3: there is a plastic coating on the circuit which needs to be removed to expose the copper wire, this can be done by slowly scratching the outer plastic with the help of a small screwdriver. The copper wire can be seen in the 5th pic. step 4: use the conductive ink pen to carefully draw a line connecting them. Complete the broken circuit as seen in the 6th pic and DO NOT connect it to any other circuit. step 5: use an insulating tape to cover the line that you drew so that the problem doesn't resurface in the future and to remove the possiblity that the line that you drew connecting to any other circuits in the future. Cons: you will need a steady hand to draw a line to re-connect the circuit. If the line gets messed up use a slightly wet paper towel to rub it off and then follow up with a dry paper to remove all the moisture. Also there is a possibility that in the future the line that you drew could disconnect. DISCLAIMER: I'm not a professional and the methods that have been discribed are my personal experience. Please use at your own risk. AND FINALLY THE REASON WHY WE ALL HAD TO GO THROUGH THIS TROUBLE. I think the 3 bumps (6th pic) that you see on the plastic shell that covers the circuit board rubbed against the board and overtime eventually rubbed off the entire circuit including the plastic coating and the copper. some more info: the clicks that you here when you try to use the passenger or the rear window are the switches that are connected to the microcontroller. In this case these switches are working perfectly fine. The problem arises because the microcontroller is not giving the signal to turn on the power relay which powers the windows. Thereby the window motors do not have power even when the switches are working. GOOD LUCK !!!!

Guru9W4NB4: Thank you so much for your thorough work on this! I tested Cobbler's hack and it worked. But I wondered about the click when I put in the jumper and came back to read more. I am glad I did! After reading your post, I look more carefully at the board, and indeed the trace you pointed out was broken. I ran a wire from the solder point for the 3rd pin on the connector to the solder point for the 4th pin on the microcontroller. I dabbed some insulating paint on the joints, put it back in, works great! With the jumper in place, the window lock worked and the window controls would cut out ~30 sec after taking the key out. But I could not hear the relay click on the left end of the dashboard. After I installed the wire between the two solder points, I hear the relay both when the window lock was toggled and when the widow buttons were operated. I have every confidence that this was the right fix to the problem. I appreciate all your work on this problem. Your post should be marked as a solution to this question so people search will find it straight away. Cheers!

Guru9W4NB4 THANK YOU!!! I'd given the board a cursory inspection, but my middle aged eyes didn't register the damage to that silly trace. Fortunately, I was able to scrape solder-mask from the trace on either side of the damage, and bridge the gap with a single strand of fine wire by soldering it to the trace. A fine-tipped soldering iron is pretty much required, but if you have one the procedure is actually pretty easy.