my heater fan stopped working, i have changed the blower motor but still nothing, what else should i look at.

Since you Checked everything else, my last thought is to check the blower switch and if that's OK, it might be the blower motor burned out. But let's hope not.... Let us know what you find, OK ?

OK, I see you did the motor change. The switch is all I can think of at this time..... sorry my friend !

The same blower is used for A/C and heat. Before you spend more money. Run a wire straight to motor from battery, positive side. If motor runs it's ok. Next thing mounted to top of housing for A/C is a resister block. That's how fan speed is controlled.If that fails you will have no blower. If that's OK thin check fan speed switch in dash.

92 GMC Sonoma 2.8L - I got the same issue,but I've replaced the swith & resistor.Still nothing.Now what is really weird is that I can switch the positive to the grounded body & it will spin!!The only thing about that is,is that it is strait wired to the battery for test reasons.What is going on with this new motor & no juice to the motor itself?I've been working on this issue for over 3 months & nothing is working.

Your new part wont bench test? is there a ground lead attached to the body of the part ? Directions are prob. in every other language. does your schematic show a ground jumper for the truck?

Check the relay for the blower motor, it connects up with the hot wire that comes off the blower motor ,it has contacts that kick in when the switch on the dash is turned on, they work together, I had the same issue, and thats what it was...

Please upload the truck's scematic if you can. power distribution center should provide power to the fuse panel, then after the fuse panel it should goto the blower speed switch, then to the other components. The ground side should get its ground provision thru the 3 legs of the blower resistor. You could pick your schematic from the ones they have on the autozone website perhaps ? the asker said 93 S-10 and checked their fuse and replaced their motor. They seem to replace parts without testing, or reading the schematic ?

I've found out that that there a 4way pigtail that connects everything the pigtail in that connection has more than likely burned up or melted plastic onto the connection pull that apart and look

That's interesting, chris, you just described the results of excessive current draw by a worn, damaged motor. A connector that fits poorly, or wiring inadequate in its design. The fuse would have repeated failures without being diagnosed, but just repeatedly replaced and even increased to a greater amp rating. If this system is wired as a simple circuit and has a ground side resistor to provide speed changes, that's how it reduces the current flow. when using "hi blower" the resistance would be in the melted connector you found. If this system is controlled by a more complex climate control it may be scanned or self tested. Having the right schematic helps any tech see whats in there for components, but the diagnosis may be along the same lines for either system. Good find, buddy.

Yes Danny but in my case no fuse was blown at all it just stopped working all of a sudden. with a test light and volt meter help track the issue down once I figured no power was getting to the motor it self but of course the blower motor was changed out to a brand new one to prevent this from happening again

Then the melted connector experienced enough heat to make it insulate itself. current flow stopped. but the failed part, did so, without melting the fuse first. could something have stopped the wheel turning ? or was connector fit too wide? You could just make sure your new connectors fit well, and bench test your parts, inspect where they go, etc.

You describe a design that has failed wire/ connector, melt down, but did not melt its circuit protection, I for one, would look into a service bulletin possible to send me to an updated part(s) harness, or connector, change in service protection value determined by its manufacturer if it were a customers car. You can do whatever to your own.

Oh yes even on my own personal vehicle I work on which is a 1994 chevy s10 blazer I make sure all parts are brand new OE parts. The old blower is bad of course had to find out this way. Of course new parts and a new 4 way connector including relay and resistor just incase since of course it's a brand new blower. Since my kids ride in the car I want to make sure it's sage as possible

Your info helps others look at that connector, then measure motor amp draw or, listen to it , can be enough. an ohmmeter on both sides of that connector can reveal resistance exceeding .5 ohm for each wire. I think that was all the asker needs to get it going. pending his individual findings.

I have a gmc sonoma 1995. My heater quit no defrost nothing. Also. My turn signals dont work. Checked fuses. There ok. And my radio not working as well. Please help. tamalajohnson82@yahoo.com

Double check all fuses even the relays. And harnesses

We have been discussing connectors that cannot carry the amps, we suspect the way they touch inside the plastic is a wide fit, and less metal is being used since the days when they were trouble free. That's for the ones with plastic melting. we also suspect the blower can be having difficulty turning and it could be drawing more amps. Now, if your vehicle also had fuses shared by both circuits or three circuits, you could read your fuse panel direction for your make, model, and year in your ownwrs guide or the service manual. every pickup does not have only one possible cause, especially at 20 years. so chris is right to say keep looking, and use a tester if the fault is not visible. A 12v test light is 4 bucks and is useful for years and years to answer simpler electrical questions that can cause the confusing symptoms.

Same problem....Put in new motor and new resistor. Nothing. I am showing 11.88 volts at plug where it plugs on to motor, but the motor won't run. I can run a hot and ground from the battery to the motor and the motor runs. Thought plug might be bad, but I backed up some six inches from plug and hooked a hot and a grund and plugged the two wires on to the motor...nothing. Plug has voltage, but motor won't run. Hot wire from batter to motor and it runs....I GIVE UP.

FIXED Same problem.....91 Chev van V8. No blower motor.....AC or heat. Fuse Good Relay (fan speed under hood) on firewall replaced Still no power getting to blower motor (purple wire) Mechanic found the harness plugging into the fan switch in the dash had melted. Unplug and take a look at yours. A.C. and heat blower now work. I was surprised the meltdown in harness dident blow any fuses

We've got a little extra weirdness going on in this one '92 s10. The blower will work, but only after tapping on the resistor/relay/fan speed switch. Changing the fan speed or turning the blower on or off will cause it to fail again until you give the relay another good tap or two. We replaced the part, but the new one does the same damn thing. Any ideas? The power to the plug seemed fine with a test light.

Have the same problem Did you find a cure?

I had the same problem with the blower motor. After checking everything I thought. I finally check the heater fuse under the dash and I found the problem. AP

im having the same issue with mine im getting power to the relay but not from the relay to the blower motor ive replaced the relay along with the switch motor and resistor and still no luck