is there a fix

There are a number of variables here...first off..How old is your battery...(found easily by the knock off labels indicating the date of the first charge) Secondly, automakers combine grounds...i.e. the big 1/0 black cable is put on the same planet as the tiny 750 mA or whatever drives the ECU...this 1/0 cable also attaches to the motor block...so the starter motor can enjoy the 300 cold cranking amps potential...this 1/0 connection will "weld" itself into position as there is Variable Amperages required here and crosses into the "weld" zone for a couple of seconds at the very least...in doing so creates "brown power" that is to say produces varying Amperages and Voltages....just what the ECU doesn't want...so yes trouble codes will appear as the ECU and chassis gets comprimized power....what you must do is disassemble the connection to the frame from the 1/0 cable and wirebrush it clean with a coarse wirebrush...will see the full potential finally, and the ECU will be reset~

Now we can retrieve the OBD-II codes...but it doesn't stop there...the TPS is most assuredly worn out...just an example...not to say you must replace this the diagnostic codes should reveal this~

...it doesn't stop there...If you are having increased idle speed and reduced performance, you could need one of these (fuel pressure regulator)...as this will NOT appear on your OBD-II codes...at all~

...also butyl rubber will crack and leak...take on oil and become unreliable...recommend replacing all vacuum hoses with silicone ones~

that ought to keep ya busy for awhile :)

The P0001 DTC code is one of those codes that is very uncommon and is likely intermittent. Fuel volume regulator

see...this whole time was under the assumption that there wasn't a code for fuel pressure....thought this meant bad warning light...it could mean anything...kinda like the B9 control robot flailing his claws in the air saying "warning...warning"~

We all learn somethin' everyday. eh Judge?

...well when we are depending on the computer to get it right...it's kinda like the Pakistani's do not trust pills...but if you crush it to a powder...they will take~...it's like, take a powder, man~ you see there is little tangible...that is to say one could put a finger or soldering iron on to make good again...so much is in the hands of our designers who am certain they are smart enough to figure out ALL scenarios..no?~

It is about the faith in your fellow man/robot to come up with the correct determination...the TPS is a prime example...a man presses the pedal...the computer knows how much the pedal was pressed...if feelin' goofy on account of...say a rainstorm followed by freezing conditions....or just plain worn from daily use WILL issue erratic suggestions to the computer who hopefully is smart enough to say "this ain't right" and toss out a CEL~

worst case says "FULL ON" then "NOT PRESSED" then FULL ON and PRESSED HALFWAY...all in a split second...more than a human could possibly to...but enough to continue running....lousily~ (is that a word?)~

thought these would certainly be optical devices...but they are not...no better than ye olde potentionmeter....in effect~

Yes, H25...if I could stop pontificating (bitchin') for two seconds I would agree...Indeed you have to learn something new....faster than the rate that you cannot remember something old~

Louse. Noun. Plural: Lice: insects of the order Phthiraptera; slang, lousy, covered with lice, filthy, dirty, repulsive. No form in adverb.

runnin lousy...now it runs decent means something in various parts of the US...decent means the naughty bits are covered up...this 440 runs decent, but burns oil is another way of presenting that word...It was a decent slice of pizza~

Louise the Louse~

Hello wounder if you got turbo in your toyota. I got turbo in my 2000 toyota and have the same problem whith the engine light turnes on.I do just take my battery cabel of + and hold it avey for about 15 secend from the battery and then put it back and the light will go awey.I have asked whats the problem for this .The servise man says you must come in here when its on.Had done that 1 time but they dident found the reesen. Then my engine is 1.6 liter. Is it 1 galon in usa dont know.But if u got turbo and its not work like it should the car dont accelereit as it should there is a little thing in the turbo dont know the english word for it sorry im from sweden but its get durty so it stops working correct.So go to an toyota shop and say my turbo doesent work it needs to get clean the little thing inside it to work correkt again.The operaitor car fixer know then what its all about. And it doesent need to be replayst by new one just do be cleand its cheaper but dont think its cost so mutch to change the little thing inside the turbo to a new 1 then you now it will last another at list 10.000 swedish miles its about 6000 usa mile.Well hope u did get some help from this. Yoy can write to me ( sprad@spray.se) if you got any cuestions.Havent done any fiix about the engine light so before you go to the ....dont know the word for it but where they check your car so its legal to drive and ewerything work.Take awey the + cable from the battery for 15sec end the engine light turnes off and then drive in to the car checking place.and then it will pase.The light turnes on for me about 1 a week. then i stop and do the cable thing and drive awey again until next time.

....it's always going to be bad ground~ either has varying voltages and amperages available through a corroded connection or imbalance resulting in failures~