MY 1994 CAMRY WONT START. IT HAS STRONG CRANKING POWER , NOT THROWING ANY CODES I CAN HEAR THE FUEL PUMP COME ON WHEN I TURN THE KEY FORWARD, I PULLED A PLUG WIRE OUT AND CHECKED FOR FIRE, THAT WAS OK. ANY IDEAS

What engine in this vehicle?

5speed 2.2

Sounds like you may have a fuel Delivery problem. Perhaps the Fuel Filter is restricted? Perhaps the Computer is NOT pulsing the Injectors ON and OFF. On the other hand...you may have a Mechanical problem. Engine Compression....Timing Belt issue. What we usually do with a Crank...but...no start condition is to install a Fuel Pressure Gauge....a Spark Tester.....and a NOID light into one of the Injector Connectors. we would also connect our Scan Tool and check for Engine RPM signal to the Computer. Without all this special equipment about all you can do is....perhaps consider a small investment in a NOID Test light....a Spark Tester...and a Fuel Filter from the local Parts Store. While replacing the F/Filter...you can check for fuel delivery to it(Filter). The Spark Tester can check Spark to each spark plug. The NOID lite will check Computer Injector pulses to each Injector. By the way. I would NOT attempt a restart of this engine without checking Engine OIL...Make sure the engine has oil in it not GAS. Smell the oil on the Dip Stick. If you smell GAS..........NFG..................if you start her up...result??.....knock....knock......knock......replace Engine. Get back to us with results.

5speed 2.2

So, I opened the gas cap and listened for the fuel pump but couldn't hear it prime, just a couple clicks. My pump has an access under my back seat. I removed the seat and still do not hear anything. Wouldn't I hear something??? My thoughts are pointing towards a faulty pump.

Would a faulty fuel pump throw a troublecode?

I don't think a Faulty Pump will trigger a code in this Make/Model/Year. I also do not believe this pump will prime the system with key turned on. The pump should run when you crank the engine over. This vehicle should have a DIAGNOSTIC Connector under the Hood ,,,driver side. If you lift the cover and look at the underside of that cover...it will indicate and ID diagnostic terminals. If you very carefully....careful now....connect the Fp terminal to the B+ terminal with a FUSED jumper wire...that should turn on the Fuel Pump. Go to the back of the vehicle and listen to see if the FP is running. If it is...try to start the Engine AFTER you check the Engine oil for GAS. This Diag. Conn. is called DC #1. You can flash trouble codes from here also. Lets Google this connector ans see what we can find. Get back with results.

Do you have one of these under the Hood?

Yes. I do have one of those under the hood on the passengers side of the vehicle. I connected the E1 and TE1 with a jumper wire to check for codes. A previous vehicle that I owned(Geo storm) please don't hold it against me!!! My dad bought it for me! Haha I could turn the key forward to accessory and I could hear my fuel pump hum. Thought all vehicles were that way?.. I'm a girl, what do you expect! Haha

Some of my most capable students in my Auto Shop Class were....yup.....Females. If you wish to continue on this adventure....take you jumper wire and connect +B to Fp. Careful now...do not let B+ touch anything else...only Fp. You might see a tiny spark when you make that connection...that's good. That means you have electricity going somewhere...should be the FP. It should be running and making noise. Good Luck.

Ok, so I did the jumper and when I tried starting it I thought for a second that it might just turn over. I took the jumper off and put my funnel in my filler neck and had someone turn it over and I could hear the fp running. Sooooo....could it be restricted filter? Its 5° here today and my cam is outside....if I put a full bottle of Heat in my gas tank and only have a quarter tank of gas, is that bad? I know it says a bottle per full tank..

Oh and the dipstick doesn't smell like gas....

5 degrees and and a quarter tank of gas...not a good combination. You most likely have moisture in the tank and it has frozen at the inlet filter on the fp. Suggest adding 5 gal. Fresh gas...and you additive to the gt. Do you have a way of heating the bottom of the tank....eg....small electric heater. Care full now...no flame heat.

The Heat that I added was just in case of moisture...but the no start delema occurred prior to the cold weather. I'm planning on moving it inside a heated garage.

Would you suggest changing the filter?

Yes indeed. That may very well could be the root cause of the problem. I would also add the 5 gal, of Gas to the GT. Get back to us with result.

Ok......spidr......give us the good news first.

So I changed my fuel filter and the car started perfectly. Drove it around a bit and noticed a big performance difference, but when I went back out to leave the car wouldn't start I noticed my intake house was torn at the engine ads and I ducked taped it got the car started again and I went driving driving a bit I'll find it when I went to start the car later again it wouldn't start now I can't get it started it up what's up with that

Hmmm...interesting. Well...could that fuel filter be once again restricted. Is there fresh fuel in the GT? I would be tempted to remove that ff and wipe the inlet with a clean paper towel...then blow through it with my mouth. I know this sounds yukki.....but it will indicate if the ff is restricted. I also tap the inlet side of the ff onto that clean paper towel.. dirt...water bubbles????...gt needs to cleaned out

Ok. I blew through the old one when I got it off the car and the fuel that came out was really brown and nasty. It looked like muddy water. But it wasn't hard to blow through at all. I thought that it would have been difficult to blow through if it was dirty enough to restrict fuel delivery?.... But for the car to start and run fine and then not start at all every time I turned the engine off makes me think something else is going on? after I installed the new ff I went and filled a gas can with fresh fuel and put it in my car and then when I started it the exhaust was smokey (whitish) and had a strong exhaust odor to it which is not normal for my car. Last night after it failed to start and I finally got it started again I drove about 20 miles turned the car off for about an hour and then it failed to start, again. I eventually got it to turn over and pumped the gas pedal getting it to barely stay alive for 30 seconds or so....but it sounded like it was choking, really rough idle.

Would sea foam help

"brown and nasty"........NG.....from where I sit......you most likely have a failing Fuel Pump. The FP is accessible by pulling the back seat cushion. However...placing a new FP into a nasty GT is not how we repair vehicles. The GT should be removed and cleaned out. Yes, there may be other issues with this vehicle which must eventually be addressed. How much time and $$$ do you want to put into a 1994 vehicle? Clean the GT and install a new FP is where I would start. Sea Foam??.....I do not think it will clean up the muddy water in the GT.....won't hurt either. Let us know what you decide to do?

if the fuel pump is failing would it start every couple of days and run fine til I turn it off and then n it start again for a day or two. I can hear the pump run but smell fuel inside the car. I have the back seat out and the cover off if the access to the pump.

Also when it does run it seems to use alot more fuel

The only way to correctly check a failing FP is to install A Tool called a Fuel Pressure Gauge. .......preferably when you have a no start. I can only guess that some of that Nasty in the FT has migrated into the fuel injectors on this vehicle. NG. We tend to fix what we see obviously wrong then proceed from there. Yes...a failing FP could function....then...not function properly. That's when you need that FP gauge to confirm the diagnosis.

I was putting the new fuel pump on and just ready to put it all back into the car when I noticed a wire is slightly exposed that is attached to a small grey fuse looking deal. The rubber coating has pulled away from where it is attached. What can I do to fix this issue

A picture of this wire and it's connection would help. If the wire in question has a solid connection.....I would apply a dab of 2 part epoxy on the bare part of the wire. Follow directions on the product. Epoxy Cement hols up well in harsh environments. I wonder what that old FP assembly looked like upon removal?

I had the car running after the new fuel pump install and it ran it is still having a starting issue where it will start and run fine but then it just won't start. It could be an hour or three days. And then it will just start right up and run fine again like nothing ever happened. Last night I was on a steep hill and when I started to take off it just died and now won't start. I'm we pulled out the spark plug and tested the spark....it was orange. Not blue. Shouldn't it be blue? If it is an ignition problem can I pull start it? If the coil is bad would it spark?

We use a high voltage spark tester to check Ignition Coil output. Available at the Auto parts Store and rather cheap. The one we have looks like a spark plug with an alligator clip on it to attach to a good ground on the Engine. This tool is plugged into each SP wire and the engine is cranked over. If the ignition system is in good shape...it will fire this SP Tester consistently. Indeed...the spark you are seeing should be a consistent Blue .....in theory....but that depends on atmospheric conditions. That's why we use this Spark Tester....which requires 25,000 volts to fire. Yes...and ignition coil going bad will cause the driving conditions you describe.....so will a fuel delivery/contamination problem. So which is easier....checking that new fuel filter again for restriction/contamination...or replacing an Ignition Coil? Which is cheaper?

I went to put new plugs in yesterday and i couldn't get two ofof them loose. They were sitting in oil. I guess from the time someone put oil in it and spilt a bunch, it must have ran down into the holes where you access the plugs. What should I do? I don't know how to get down in there to clean the oil out before I remove the plug.

I do not think there is enough oil down there to be concerned about. However..you might take some paper towel and place it down the hole with the plug in place and let it soak up the oil. We usually use compressed air and blow out the oil.

This is unbelievable..... last night, I drove the car to the store, came back out to leave and when I turned the key, there was complete silence. It wouldn't even crank. But I had lights and horn etc. So I pushed it across the lot and popped the clutch and it started. Went home and tried starting it an hour later and it started just fine. I'm starting to lose faith

Keep the faith. Think of this experience as a challenge and a new adventure. Think about how much we have learned up to this point about this vehicle. OK...so now we have a NEW ISSUE?? Engine does not Crank....not even a click or 2? We would get out volt meter and begin a systematic check of the Cranking Circuit. With out a DVm...and the training required to use it ....try this. Keep a medium size hammer in your car. The next time she fails to Crank Over....rap on the starter motor a few times...then...attempt another start. If she starts...you have a bad starter motor. While you are waiting for another no crank....visually check those battery connections....also the connection on the starter motor. Look for a funky looking white powder/corrosion. Been a long time since I have seen anyone push a vehicle...then pop the clutch...for a start. Congratulations.

Car won't crank again. This time it threw a code12. Code 12 Engine revolution signal missing...is that my distributor?

Yes indeed.....the rev signal is coming from the Distributor. But...without that signal you would not have spark at the SP....so....let's make sure we are on the correct diagnostic path. This engine will CRANK...but will not Fire up(Start). Is this correct?

The first issue was The car would turn crank but not start. Put fuel filter and fuel pump on...then still had random no Start issue. But then all of the sudden it would not crank. Had lights but no sound when I turned the key. That's when I popped the clutch and it ran fine for a week. Still had random no crank issue. So the last time I tried to pop the clutch it started but died...the same way that it did in the very beginning... I never got a code to come up until the other night while itwouldn't crank...it was code 12

Ok...so now we have a no crank. Let us assume the battery and battery cable connections are clean and tight. The battery is good. Take a small hammer and rap the starter motor a few times and see if engine will crank. Careful of those rotating parts. Someone raps...someone else Cranks at the same time.

I have a new battery and cables are tight and clean. I have done the tap on the starter thing....nothing happened.

Without doing some electrical testing with a voltmeter try slightly moving the gear shift lever around while attempting a crank and start.

Poops forgot. You have stick shift on this vehicle. Hmm mm. There must some sort of safety to keep you from starting in gear. I think this vehicle has a clutch Switch? Look under the dash by the clutch pedal. Do you see any wires there...and somethinges that looks like a push button?

I have the same problem! ran great. than went to start in the morning just cranked over no start. that was two days ago. just went out to start it. flashed right up. 3 times in a row.1994 Toyota Camry Wagon 4cyl. Strange!!!

Well here we go again. Read this thread carefully. Where do you want to start?

It just snowed over a foot last night and still snowing. I will start the trouble shooting tomorrow when I can get it into my garage. Will keep you informed.

OK folks.....what's new with the issues on these vehicles? Give me the GOOD news first.

Good news is I got the beast running. the problem is it runs great when idling till it warms up than it has an odd miss. driving it it runs great than at a stop light it has the odd miss and seems to want to stall.

Should we try Flashing the Computer for codes?

Another thought.....EGR Valve and Modulator. Check Vacuum Hoses for cracks/Mushy ....and filter under cap of Modulator.

Spidr...any good news or updates on this vehicle of yours?

You had the answer for my problem. took it in to get the code read and came up with EGR valve. Will be removing and cleaning it in the morning. Thanks for your help!!

Ok...let us know the outcome.

So...jake...what's new?

I have a 2008 Dodge Magnum v6 Everything is fine as far as battery and spark and fuel brand new fuel pump just installed the problem is that when I do go to crank it it's like it's a continuous run trying to start but cant and I have to turn the key off and after a few hours or so of it sitting it will start. The car has done this to me 3 times now and the first 2 times was before the brand new fuel pump was put in but just the other day I ran an errand and I was starting to make a u turn and the car shut off in the middle of the intersection and it would not start up again I had to get it towed and even as of right now it still hasn't started it's just doing that continuous turn over without starting. I did put a little gas in the engine and it started up for a second but shut off again I checked all the fuses and they are all good I even switched my fuses around but nothing has changed..I don't know what else to do

Consider installing a fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pressure against specs. Is there a fuel filter in this vehicle? Any warning lights on or flashing When the engine does run?

Flaca...did you ever resolve the issue with this vehicle?

First of all you are wasting time and money, trying not to waste time and money, but also causing yourself a big headache. Here are my 2 solutions: (1) have it towed to a Toyota dealer, let them diagnosis it themselves and inform you of what is wrong, have it towed home, and make the repairs yourself. (2) check all fuses under the hood and inside the vehicle, replace the EFI relay under the hood, replace the fuel pump relay behind the glove box to the left, check to make sure your getting power to the fuel pump, replace the fuel pump with a new one if you are, replace the ignition switch, replace your vehicles ECM. Now after all that replacing, hard earned money spent, rent due, and throwing new parts at the vehicle it would have been cheaper and easier to follow my first solution. (Most car manufactures keep certain repair procedures and solution to themselves and only for themselves. That's why you actually need a "Professional Automotive Technician", preferably a Toyota Technician to diagnosis this vehicle and not an Automotive Mechanic.

PS...If the ECU is getting power and when the jumper is installed across B+ and FP, the fuel pump should be getting voltage. check that it's getting 12V DC at the fuel pump, on the blue wire with a black stripe. If not, there has to be a wire break or disconnection somewhere between the diagnostic port's FP terminal and the fuel pump. It's a blue w/ black stripe wire for that entire run. It runs from the FP terminal over to the circuit opening relay, then back to the fuel pump along the driver's door sill. If there is 12V DC at the pump, check the ground wire in that connector for resistance to ground. It's a white wire w/ black stripe.