BUICK ROADMASTER CRANKS THEN SHUTS OFF AFTER 15 MINUTES

No need for a mechanic yet! Try this one last thing before you give up. Open your hood and look at the front of the engine driver side. You will see your coil and the ignition module bolted to the front of the head. Remove the assembly and have the module checked at a local auto parts store (advance auto does this). If the module checks out bad replace it and if it is OK replace the coil. My 96 roadmaster estate wagon did the same thing and it was the module. Good luck Dan

I replaced the ignition control module and it is still is doing the same thing.I found out that after the car shuts off and I try to crank it again it is not getting any fire.I tested it with a fire tester.I am thinking that maybe it is the distributor,although I hooked my car up to a small computer and it had a code about my MAF but I don't hink that is whats stopping it from firing.

Opti spark distributers do crap out. My second roadmaster had an issue with the distributer. (had a real bad misfire. engine code showed multiple spark misfire) I replaced the dist and the problem was gone. I bought a brand new complete distributer assembly (comes with cap/rotor and disitributer approx $225). since the water pump has to come off i took no chances. I took the old one apart to find that the two small screws that hold the rotor in place had come loose and one had fallen out and was mashed up by the rotor. was a wonder the car ran at all.

Well dan I did replace the ICM but I did not no it was an ignition cil right up under it until i though about what you said and I did some research on it and I think that it may be the problem and since it is only 35 bucks I am going to go with that first.Do you know how much it is to get a new key made for the 96 roadmaster.....with vats on it..?

The key is chipped so you are looking at around $60-75 range. Good luck keep me posted on your progress.

Well I thought the chip in my key was bad ,turned out I have a bad ignition switch so the car will not start.Now I can't see if the new ignition coil even stopped the problem I had.All the mechanics I know act like they are scared to install an ignition switch.What would you reccommend.Should I buy a manual and do it myself.?

My suggestion would be to check out a library (or internet) and and see what it would take to do the switch. I have done them before but not on the roadmasters. I would guess the switch is mounted on the column behind the instrument cluster. I would takle the job BUT not without doing my homework BEFORE buying any parts.

If you are getting a VATS fault code when you try to start your car here is what to do. At the base of your steering column find a two wire plug. It is the VATS wire. Unplug it and study the type of plug it is. Take your key to a shop that installs car alarms. Have the shop put an ohm meter on the chip in your key to determine the resistance. Ask them if they have a resistor to match the key. Go to Radio Shack and buy a plug to match the one in the car, a black plastic box about the size of a postage stamp and a resistor to match you key if the alarm shop didn't have one. Open the plastic box and cut two notches to insert the two wires from the new plug. Attach the resistor to the two wires and enclose the whole thing in the plastic box. You will have a plug assembly about the size of a key fob. Plug this assemble into the mating plug at the base of your steering column. You now have bypassed the VATS and you can buy keys without the chip installed. Much cheaper fix than anything else.

I have a 1996 buick broadcaster that I thought the fuel pump was bad but it wasn't cause I brought a new one and still can't get power out of the fuel pump it want make a sound need help please