2003 ram hemi won't start. Red light blinking on display. Started to crank for a 1/2 second and then nothing. Power locks don't even seem to be working right. Battery has full charge. I'm thinkin fuse

figured out my own problem. Same thing was happening with my Dodge Grand Caravan. Lights and all electronics going crazy. Spent a lot of money at the dealer changing relays and more. Came down to a bad battery. Not like the older models that will run okay once they are jumped. A bad battery will cause fluxuation in the electronics system and the car wigs out. Changed the battery and presto, all is well in my world again. Don't waste money at the dealer on these new Dodges. Get the battery tested!!! Always start with the simple stuff!!!

check any ground straps for rust or snapped off or check the main fuses

I had similar problem with 2003 dodge 1/2 ton with 4.7 engine. I turned key to start it up and not a sound. A red light was blinking in the instrument cluster that I had never seen before, the vehicle manual said the red light (#14) was a security system alert. Funny, but I have no security system. Then the other instument cluster lights light the odometer and the gauges started working intermittingly. I replaced the battery the next morning and all is fixed. Autozone employee said old battery tested at 100 crank amps and was rated at 600. I checked old battery with a multimeter and had 12.5 volts, but battery was bad. A voltage reading taken on a unloaded battery can be misleading.

2005 dodge ram 1500 i have a problem does not start I have the check engine light flashing and alarm light flashing

I have the same problem red light blinks and the check engine light blinks on dodge ram slt 2006 and it won't turn on

Has anyone figure this issue out? I'm having same deal :(

I was having the same problem. Had the battery tested and it came back fine. So I had the alternator tested and the alternator was overcharging the battery and came back that the alternator was bad. I replaced that and literally 2 weeks later it happened again. Now after I replaced the alternator my tranny went so the truck didn't run for almost that whole 2 weeks before it went out. There's got to be something else

This works in chevy...for sure....ive done it my self. Unhook both negative and positive post from battery.... Pull away from the battery so you dont accidently touch it. Take your positive wire and your negative(again nothing hooked to battery!!) Hold them together for 10 seconds...then hook the battery back up..get in you vehicles..turn ignition on wait 5 seconds.....after that it should start....if you have 2 batteries unkook both...do this on both batteries...starting with passenger side.. Again when doing this the battery is not hooked up..until after you do the 10 second process. Hope this helps. Sometimes you will still have the security light(little red one) on stereo blink ..if you do...have it looked at. But this process should get your car started and get you there.

I ended up getting a new battery even though the charge said it was full. That new battery fixed the issue. It fired right up and haven't had any problems since

I have a Dodge 2005 1500 crew cab. I had this problem on going for quite a few months. I got a new battery and then a couple weeks later it happened it again. I pop the hood and touch the negative terminal and then open my truck door and all the lights come back on. I can start my truck and run it for the next couple of weeks or so until it happens again. I'm worried that one time I try it and it doesn't work.

Look at your electronic ignition switch on the left side of your steering wheel -the black box under the plastic shell, a$35 part... Totally resolved my two week trouble shooting nightmare... A new battery is just quick fix...

I went to start my truck and it had no power what so ever. I realized I left the ignition in ACC. So both batteries were dead. I charged both batteries and still no power. I read someone's comment about touching the negative terminal so I went and tried that. As soon as I did the lights came on and it started right up. Very weird. Maybe the cable is loose?

Have a 2008 Dodge Ram 1500 mega cab and there is a red light that comes on and I have to shut truck off then hope it comes back on, what could that be???

These trucks are bad about the wires breaking in two under the fuse box under the hood. Don't know why but they do. I would check there.

The wires the lead into the fuse box. Gotta pop up the fuse box.

Take hotpost (red post on battery) off and leave off for about 30 seconds and put back on. Should fix the problem.

Anyone have any other ideas on this matter? I purchased a brand new battery, put it in and all the lights just flash at me disconnected the battery let it sit for 4 hours tried again and everything listed above and the truck just flashes all of its lights at me. I currently have the truck disconnected from the battery to not drain it. Any further feedback would be awesome.

I fixed it, Climb under the dash, you will see 2 black boxes. One attached to the steering column, the other just above that and about 4 inches x 4 inches in size. Unplug the larger size plug going into the box. This is the anti-theft device. After I did that the truck started right up.

my 2003 ram is doing same thing I lost the actual dodge key so I am using one wit no chip all lights on dashcomes on and the red blinking one as well what can I do so that it will start again

So today this exact thing occurred. Started my truck (2005 Ram 1500 5.7L Hemi, 392,000 miles). It started for about a second then completely shutdown. No lights, nothing electrical working. Low humming noise emanating from the steering column area, and red light indicator glowing on instrument cluster next to temp guage. I tried unlocking/locking door by putting the key in to reset it, nothing. I saw Terry's post above about disconnecting the battery cables and touching them together for 10 seconds, then reconnect cables to battery. Put key in ignition, turn to full on position without cranking for 5 seconds. I had power, all electrical. Truck started. I drove it for about 20 minutes, turned it off and went to start it. Again, same thing. Did the same drill as before. It cleared the issue. Ran it for a few minutes, then turned it back off. Couple hours later it starts up fine. I take it to my mechanic...he runs the analyzer and only code showing is one meaning the battery cable was disconnected. Started up fine. Went to dinner. An hour later, went to start it and nothing. Even tried my spare key --- which the grey color keys do have the electronic chip in them. Disconnect the cables, held them together for 10 seconds, and then the 5 second wait in the cab before starting...which it did. So now I'm thinking it's not the keys, since the spare which is ever used resulted in a failure to start as well. Going to see about replacing the electronic ignition switch and see if that makes a difference. Maybe it is the immobilizer? Battery and alternator tested good. Will follow-up on here if I find anything out, or discover the culprit. If anyone has any ideas...please let me know.

All of your answers sucked. All you need to do is unhook your battery for 10-15 minutes and hook it back up. Then, unlock your vehicle but, DO NOT USE THE FOB use the actual KEY. It started right up without issue, and the antitheft system is also functioning properly.

Between Terry and GuruVWQR4 I managed to get my truck started. I already knew my battery was dead because it was an old battery and I let my truck sit for about two months. The reason my truck sat for two months is because I lost my keys and key fob riding my motorcycle, so I had to get a new key cut. I drive a 2002 Crew Cab 1500 4.7. Well when I put the new battery in my truck and tried to start it with the new key (no chip in my key and it cost me $23) and it wouldn’t start. So like everybody here I got a red flashing light. So I disconnected the battery and touched the cables together for ten seconds and waited 10-15 mins connected the battery. Then because my doors were unlocked I locked them with the power locks closed it; unlocked the door and put the key in the igntiotion and turned the key expecting the click and red light instead my baby fired right up. Now I can’t drive it because I don’t have it tags and insurance but it’s been a couple days and it’s still starting with no problems...for the video gamers follow my mixer and me on Xbox and PS4 Sm0kinV3t90

this only happen when you unlock your door and, if you do not do it correctly, the safe mode is activated, so only locks and unlocks the door and solves the problem. But to fix it permanently, it is necessary to put a little oil in the lock

I have a dodge ram 1500 2004 with no start or crank wont hear fuel pump kick on all the the gauges seem to not work i tried pluging a scanner and it wont rear. All i did was change spark plugs. I check all my fuses and fuse 23 was the only one blown i tried to change it and put a good fuse and it would blow it as soon as i put it in, so i know i have a short somewhere i look around and realize that one off the injector wires was touching the valve cover stud i separated the wire and the fuse did not blow up. but truck still wont start im stuck with it any ideas

I have a 2014 ram 1500 that has a blinking red light and no power to anything but instrument cluster . I replaced battery and tried a couple of things mentioned on this site but did not fix it . The problem is the end of key fob was wore out and you have to push in on key fob hard and then turn normal for the fob to work so replaced fob back in business. The grooves on end of fob get wore down over time. I hope this helps someone with there problem.

I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500, the driver door lock actuator has been making a weird noise, sometimes won't lock driver door, does a whining buzzing noise on the automatic lock when start driving and when I press the lock switch. Now my truck won't start and the anti theft light is flashing. My husband tried the unhooking the battery cables and reattaching...still won't start. I bought this truck used and have never had the key fob, just a key. Neighbor is saying it's the ignition switch or the main brain. I can't help to think the actuator failing and this anti theft not letting my truck start is connected. Help before I have to tow it please!!!

Ended being the battery.

Ok guys. Check door jams, dodge are notorious for lock and window wires breaking there. When they do your security system could be triggered thinking a break in. Also explains parasitic draw because you have a short circuit. As for gauges and lights, that's the security system. Do yourselves a favor and check wires next time you open the doors. It may pay off, it did for me