i checked the socket and bulb they appear fine.when i check the wires going back i have power for the blinker but not the brake light. same wire right?

You probably already know that the tail/direction/break light is a single, two filament bulb. The dimmer of the two filaments is the Tail Light (only) while the brighter of the two filaments functions as the break and flashing light (emergency and direction). The main power for the break light comes from an orange wire from the fuse box, through the break light switch, out on a white wire, up the steering column to the turn single switch. The break light IS the turn signal and emergency flasher. The white wire from the break light switch to the turn signal switch illuminates the bright filament on both sides. After the turn signal switch these will be the green and yellow wires. If you have a flashing turn signal then I suspect the switch located at the break peddle linkage. It may be stuck, damaged, mashed ... in the open (actuated or "pushed in") state. With a volt meter (or 12v tester) check for a constant 12v on the orange wire going into the switch. If NO; replace the break light fuse. ("STOP/HAZ" - 15 amp) If YES; check for 12v on the white wire out of the switch when the break peddle is slightly depressed. If NO; replace the break light switch. This switch may also have a connector that goes to the automatic speed control used to disengage the control when the break peddle is used. Make sure it is reconnected if you replace the switch. NOTE: It has nothing to do with the break lights. If YES; check for12v at the connector at the base of the steering column. If NO; Either you have a bad wire or a bad connection in the connector itself. If YES ( and you do have blinking light on both sides); you most likely have a bad turn signal switch. With the turn signal switch in it's neutral position the white wire supplies power to both bulbs on the green (right light) and yellow (left light) wires and bypasses the blinker relay at the fuse box. Changing the turn signal switch is not too complicated but you will need a wheel puller tool ($20 to $30). Be very careful when dissembling the horn switch! Make sure you notice where all the little parts go and DON'T lose any of them! The most difficult part of pulling the steering wheel is that it has a tension spring held in place with a keeper ring. This ring comes out pretty easy but the spring MUST be compressed to replace the ring. This is a very strong spring and difficult to compress far enough to replace the ring. The switch is replaced with three screws and comes with the wire harness and connector (hard wired to the switch) that runs down the column. One last test before pulling the steering wheel is to test for 12v on both the green and yellow wires when the break peddle is depressed. If not and you did all the other tests then pull the wheel!

Added: Remember that the power to your lights is "switched" so the key needs to be in the RUN position. You don't have to actually start the engine.