why truck won't start after it get hot maybe twenty minutes running

It's fuel injected so it's not vapor lock. Vapor lock wouldn't cause a slow starting speed either. Chances are good that It is a bad starter.

Will the vehicle keep running once started? Or does it kill on the road then only restart after it cools?

I have the same issue. Have had the cam positioning sensor replaced, and the distributor, plugs and wires replaced. Still has the problem. Starter turns over fine but seems like all cylinders aren't firing.

I don't have the answer just the same problem, truck will start cool but not when it is hot. I have read many related problems with this same truck with the same problem. It's looks to me that we are all having the same problem. But so fare no one has the answer, can you help. It looks to me that the electrical system will not let the truck start, as if there is a sincere that is bad.

I have the same problem

I have run into the same problem, and I suspect bad wiring. I have noted exposed wire in key places, such as the radio frequency interference dampener on the distributor, as well as at the fuel pump relay.

I have been working on my truck of and on for 2 years. It is a 95 F150 with 5.0. I am having the problem you guys are talking about and trying to fix it. I'm the greatest when it comes to working on vehicles but I am not scared to do what ever because I love the learning experience. Today it started ran great got hot and died. Wouldn't start back up. Let it sit till I got home from work and it fired up like a beast and ran great. Didn't run it looks g enough for it to die again. It would be great if any of you could help me out. Thank you.

Sorry I am not the best when it come to typing. I meant to say I'm not the greatest. Also I didn't run it long enough for it to die. Big thumbs small buttons.

Trub: Since your knowledge is limited and you're willingness to learn is high, may I suggest a site for you. It's called AllData.com. For about twenty bucks a year or fifty bucks for five years you can purchase a very in-depth digital repair guide for your make, model, and engine for your vehicle. There are step by step repair guides and troubleshooting for every aspect of your car. There is a sample vehicle available where you can "thumb" through how the book is set up. Just click on the DIY section of the site.

That is awesome. Thank you very much. I will definitely check that out today. Thanks again.

So... I tried a few things, tested some stuff, found that fuel pressure cuts out right before she dies, have been testing everything in the fuel system. I am told that the module is bad, which would make perfect sense. But with so many things that have been replaced on this truck and not fixed it, it is hard to want to throw more money at the problem.

Same problem I will fix it tomorrow hopefully I think its a bad starter or timing is off or hot

I have an 89 f 250 mine wont restart when hot. I can move the distributer and it will start again. So weird. When its hot it sounds like the battery is dead and wont turn over till I retard the timing.

Ok I have a 1990 ford f150 300 6cylinder iv replaced starter solenoid coil and still not wanting to start don't seem to be getting fire what could be the problem any suggestion from any one here I really like this ole truck and I will do what ever it takes to get her back on the road plz help me

Go get a spark tester at the local auto parts store for about twenty bucks and test each plug wire. It's simple. If the tester flickers when you are trying to start it (check all wires) then your problem is elsewhere. If no flickering begin checking backward to find the cause of no voltage.

Have any of u tryd replacing coolant temp sensor

Is the heat shield missing around your starter to protect it from the exhaust? This may be the problem. Install a heat shield or install a new starter...

i have replaced the starter on mine haveing this same proble,. so make sure if you replace starter you replace solinoid. it wont solve the problem but will keep your truck in good shape with the battery i replaced all plugs and plug wires at first time it started right up. but when she gets hot it dose seem like a wireing problem becuase the battery is draining when its hot. make sure timing isnt off. cause thats the only thing i havent done. and will be doing this week. with so many people haveuing the same issue. and none haveing figured it out. it could be the age of the truck just comeing threw or wireing. if the timing dont improve it then im out of ideas on it. but she shiuts for an hour maybe two she always fires right back.

Guys I had the same problem a year ago. On a 1995 f150 inline 6 5speed. Mine would do what all y'alls is doing and it ended up being the distributer the whole set up cap and all was changed out problem solved

have this problem i will not quit until it is solved if by chance there is pure failure who would be willing to join in on a class action lawsuit mine is a 2006 and yes it has a 6 cyl when it gets hot bam wont run this is pure bs for FORD to leave us it's customers hanging in the wind like this ! so is anyone on board if I fail ?

I have a 89 351 automatic transmission 4x4. I have the same problem.

Same exact problem on my 95 f-150 4.9L. Runs great first start but after 2 miles or if very hot outside, it heaves and misses and eventually shuts down. Starts after sitting for 45 minutes again. I did replace rotor, cap wires plugs and coolant temp sensor as well as the starter. No fix. Had it to 2 different mechanics who stated fuel pressure was good and so was spark...

Turned out my f150 89 had a bad fuel pump.

I also have a 95 inline 6 manual transmission with the same problem. I have changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, battery cables, fuel pump, fuel filter and I am in the process of changing the starter. Nothing has seemed to help. In fact, it seems to be getting worse. I would be willing to go into a lawsuit, but don't know where to start. I also don't want to throw any more money at it if it is just going to crap out on me.

I have the same problem with my 95 ford straight 6 it ended up being the ignition module

If the starter turns easily when warm, but doesn't want to start, replace the O2 sensor. It is most likely the problem. I'm having trouble with my 87 F.I. 300 turning over when gets warmed up. Turns over, but laboriously at best. Like a boost of compression , yeah, right. W.t.h.?

Your quite possibly in need of a new 02 sensor. Worked on my Ford Aerostar. Cheap fix too.

Timewalk63@gmail.com I have 96 f150 4.9 with the same problem I'm going to change the distributor and ignition module . I'll post results any other suggestions would be great !!

Hi, saw these post and decided to write as I am having the same problem with my 1996 F150 4.9L Truck. The first time this happened, I was getting gas and it just never started. I looked for spark and there was none. I replaced the coil pack and that solved the problem for a little while. I also changed the wires plugs and cap and rotor just for good measure. I drove it for another 5 days until last night as i was pushing the engine uphill it quit on me. I was on a steep incline. Luckily there was a guy who actually had a tow rope and pulled me up the hill and I coasted to my house from there. I had tried to start it a few times on the hill with no success, then while I was coasting home, still no start, even tried to compression start it, again no start. Sitting there the guy helped me check for spark and it had spark. I thanked him for the tow and asked him if he could turn over the engine while I listened one last time, he turned it over and it started. I have a feeling it is an engine module or oxygen sensor. I would appreciate your help if you get this email. Thanks, Quintin

I HAVE SIMILIAR PROBLEM TOO WITH MY 1990 FORD F150 302 MOTOR. MY IGNITION CONTROL MODULE WENT BAD 2 YEARS AGO. I PUT NEW ONE A WEEK AGO ON AS I THOUGHT IT WAS IT AGAIN. I WOULD TRAVEL A COUPLE OF MILES ON SAME ROAD THAT IT JUST SHUT OFF, BUT PUT IT BACK IN PARK AND WOULD CRANK BACK UP. AFTER PUTTING NEW IGNITION CONTROL THAT WASN'T AFTER MARKET, BUT A TRUE MOTORCRAFT ONE, IT WENT DEAD AGAIN, BUT WOULD CRANK BACK QUICKLY. I DON'T KNOW IF I GOT A BAD MODULE OR SOMETHING ELSE. IT TURNS OVER FAST, BUT TAKES A BIT TO FIRE OFF EVEN WHEN FIRST COLD CRANKING IT. I NOTICED OTHERS SAID A OXYGEN SENSOR IS SIMILIAR IS DIAGNOSES. ANY THOUGHTS ON THAT BECAUSE WHEN MODULE WENT BAD IT WOULD TAKE A WHILE TO CRANK AGAIN, BUT NOW IT CRANKS UP QUICK AFTER STOPPING IN HIGHWAY. HELP ME FIGURE THIS GREMLIN OUT..

Most likely your manifold is is leaking or gaskets are going bad in turn heating up your starter. If your starter will heat up to a point where you can only wait for it to cool down before it will start again. Try possibly fabricating a heat shield. Good luck

Yes a heat shield on the starter. I have a 64 Mercury Comet with a 302 out of a 68 mustang. Having this problem. My prior car was a 68 El Camino that did it as well. Starter gets hot from exhaust and won't turn on anymore. Sometimes 20 minutes sometimes two hours waiting for it to cool. All you new car guys with your 86-93's. Always worried about sensors and electronic parts. I have spark, fuel, water, oil. That's all I need to run. If the starter isn't hot. I'm working on a shield today for the starter. Also timing was an issue. I too would advance or retard my timing can't remember which. But it seemed to help for a little while

I have the same issue. Mine is an 89 F250 351 Windsor 5 speed manual 4X4 I bought it 12 years ago. It had many problems but starting hot or cold wasn't one of them, ran like a champ through all for seasons. About 4 years ago I stalled it in traffic and it wouldn't start, had the dead battery effect. Someone offered to jump start and it fired up. Then it shortly after, it began to not start after driving till warm. I carried a spare battery around with me and that worked for awhile but soon it wouldn't even fire with a jump. I have resorted to only driving if I don't have to shut it off or will have it shut off long enough for s cool down (about an hour) then it starts right up. I have replaced the O2 sensor, full tune up, new starter and battery cable including starter cable, new solenoid, new TPS, and yes I changed the temperature sensor (not temp sender) Yet the problem still continues. The truck is solid and very road worthy with only 105,000 original miles. I also owned a 88 F150 with 249,000 miles on it and never had an issue like this in the 8 years I owned it. I am at my wits end on this one and could use some advise.

Try and replace the switch that chooses the fuel tank. Since ive done that I haven't had a problem.

Above I stated I replaced the fuel pump, but I came across the issue 100 miles later. so then I noticed the switch that chooses the tank was hot and replaced that.

I WAS JUST FOLLOWING UP ON MY PROBLEM WITH MY NEW MODULE I PUT ON DISTRIBUTOR. IT WAS HARD TO TROUBLESHOOT PROBLEM MY NEXTDOOR MECHANIC LET IT RUN FOREVER BEFORE IT FINALLY SHUT OFF. SO FOR HIM TO TEST IF NEW MODULE WAS BAD , HE HAD TO TEST IT WHILE IT WOULDN;T CRANK, BUT TRUCK CRANKED RIGHT BACK UP. THEY ALSO THOUGHT IT COULD BE ELECTRONIC PICKUP IN DISTRIBUTOR. SINCE THE MODULE WAS REPLACED JUST A COUPLE WEEK EARLIER, THEY DECIDED TO JUST REPLACE IT HOPING I JUST GOT A DEFECTIVE ONE. SO FAR SO GOOD AND MAYBE JUST A LITTLE DEER BLOOD ON THE TAILGATE TO FIX IT. P.S.--HE DID NOTICE WHILE LEAVING MY TRUCK RUNNING SO LONG TO GET IT TO SHUT OF A PUDDLE OF ANTI-FREEZE WAS LEAKING OUT--HAD A BAD WATERPUMP HE SAID.. STILL HAD A BIG COST AFTERALL--LORD HELP!!

I have a 1996 Bronco 302 auto 165,000 miles. It has not be abused or mudded, highway driven. It starts right up when cold, it starts right up if it is warm and it hasn't been sitting warm for over 15 mins or so.. BUT if you drive it and park for over 40 mins or so and come back to go somewhere it will turn over fine, at normal speed but the engine will not start up, UNLESS (this is crazy) you pump the accelerator, then is starts like its sputtering then it runs fine. sometimes when i do this it is like the engine doesn't start trying to run right when i let off the key (I let off the key because it is not starting just cranking over) like the switch wont let it run till i stop cranking it .. I have replaced the following with new parts. Distributor, fuel pump, fuel regulator, wires , intake vacuum pump, both temp water sensors, oil pressure sensor, fuel pump, water pump, radiator, clutch fan, alternator, and some other stuff. I took it to a shop in my town and he had it for two weeks with a fuel presure gauge and a spark tester hooked to it at all times with no luck. then i took it to the FORD dealer (Langdale ford ) they said it cranked fine all the time for them... A side note, sometime the Bronco seems to all of a sudden to have more power and then sometimes it goes back to not having good power.

I have the same problem, starts cold no problem. But when its warm it turns over for a while then starts. If it doesn't catch it simply wont start till its cool again. I did figure out that if I pump the gas it starts warm no problem. Now I need to see what part of the fuel system is causing the problem.

I have a 2001 ford F150 with a 4.6 that has the same problem for about a year. It really didn't bother me much because I would start it up in the morning, drive it to work - Then it would cool down - Then drive it back home 9 hours later. So the other week I had stop at store on the way home from work and went to start it up after a few minutes and it just wouldn't start, but after 30 minutes it started without a problem and I drove home. I have done a few of the repairs that some have posted in this forum, but one post on a Ford Forum suggested switching out OEM PCM power relay (I purchased a Borg Warner relay - Part# R3177). After switching out the relay I drove my truck around town and then parked the truck in my driveway. Turned it off, waited a few seconds and turned it back on without any problems - I turned it on and off a few times just to make sure it was not an anomaly. I guess the real test is when the ambient temperature is around 80 degrees. Hope this helps.

I have a 1989 Dodge Dakota. I had my Distributor and all the wires changed everything in the timing and running. A few weeks ago my muffler exploded going down the road. I had to cut the exhaust pipe off in front of cadilladic converter because it came apart also. so since I put the exhaust pipe back on and got the truck running my truck has started not cranking when it gets hot., So now to shield the starter or maybe replace it them shield the new one. The starter heating up is the only problem it can be. Yes I have replaced the coil. everything is new even the fuel pump and all my censors.. So before doing anything I suggest the starter or your coil.. I know if I replaced the bushings in the starter will solve it.. remember if your vehicle is over 10 years then you are more than likely going to have problems..

If you had a shield for the starter prior to taking everything off I would say you have to put it back or replace it. If you post your question again in the Dodge Forum you will get more answers. This form is F-150 and is this question is 3 years old.

Change starter relay my sons 89 gt same crap now works perfectly

Check an see if there is a hidden fuel filter inside a black plastic fuel housing inside the frame rail between the fuel tank and the in- line pressure fuel pump. It has 4 fuel line ports, Use a band type (oil filter) wrench being careful not to break the black plastic bowl unscrewing it. The filter inside is 1 1/2" tall by 2 3/4" across.

I have an 89 ford probe gt.....and its doing the same thing....

I think if you wrap heat cloth around starter it will help, these trucks have headers on them and it is too hot for the starters!

change out the fuel pump relay. when it gets hot it quits working. had same thing on 89 bronco.

Having same problems with my 86 f150 302 am replaceing stater and solanoid. Tomorrow. Will let you know

My husbands 06 f-350 diesel starts up great , but once he shuts it off after it's warmed up , it could take 30min to and hour to cool down before it starts . His mechanic is stumped . Did anyone fix this problem? By the way , the truck doesn't die or shut off while running . It just won't restart after it's warmed up .

My husbands f-350 D is have the same issue . It starts up great , but after it's warmed up if he shuts it off , it will not restart until it's cooled . Could be 30 min to 1.5 hours . His mechanic is stumped. Did anyone find a solution ?

Faulty fuel pump relay can be effected by temp. If the truck still cranks over and no fuel is delivered, change the fuel pump relay and check fuel pressure. Topically a bad fuel pump won't have that sort of consistency. If it isn't the relay or fuse, check the ignition switch.

Has anyone had luck with heat cloth around the starter? Same issue in my 1984 F150 302

My 92 F150 with the 5.8L is doing the same; starts and runs great, but once it gets hot and I shut if off, it can be hard to start like the battery is dying. I'm going to try the heat shield on the starter. For the others here I use to have an 86 5.0 mustang GT that would cut off and the mechanic (by luck) found a sheared cotter key in the distributor housing; replaced it no more cutting off problems. Fun car to drive

Has anyone thought about the flywheel biding the starter up? My 93 starts fine when cold. But once warmed up very hard to start. Like battery is dead. I also get a knock in the truck. Really leaning towards the flywheel heating up and the crack expanding. Will be replacing it shortly. Bye f-250 351w

I hear everyone saying change this and change that, and nothing but money spent happens. I'm not a mechanic or an electrician but I've had a lot of old trucks. From my experience its always been a bad,corroded or dirty connection somewhere in the harness, under the door on the driver side and any other place that wiring is exposed or like one of you mentioned by the starter and manifold where it can get hot and burn. I'm in the same situation as the rest of you and I've just started to trouble shoot the wiring harness at key spots and so far found two issues. This is what causes the vehicle to die slowly. Chances are the was one weak connection, and then there were two, and three until it died. Get where I'm going with this, make some coffee and get at it, hopefully you'll catch the culpret right off but you got to start by looking at what started to go wrong first. And just a note, sensors don't usually quit working no matter what Joe mechanic is saying over there I've found that rarely to b the case. If a warning comes up or motor runs different its because the sensor is doing its job.the wiring or the module it is controlling will always be your problem, and o yes, leave the timing alone, also a rare occurrence. Peace

My 86 ranger started surging some miles down the road then the engine would die. starting back up running great again after setting a good while, Found the problem. There was a small hidden black filter housing just past the fuel tank inside the frame rail, The filter inside was becoming clogged While driving, The fine debris in the filter housing would get stirred up re-clogging the filter stopping the flow of fuel. problem solved after changing the filter.

Same problem,bad fuel pump.

I replaced the ballest resistor wire on my 89 no problem starting since

1996 E250 econoline 4.9L inline does same thing. I ask people at the gas station if I can leave the van on bc it has to cool down for 10 mins before it starts again. Its annoying, but steady. No fix found yet

When your vehicle only starts when it's cold it's a ignition coil or distributor

I removed my Cylinder Head Temp Senor in my 2001 Ford F150 4.6 part# F65F6G004AB. When searching for the part on the Ford Parts website I found that the original part has been replaced with part number 8L3Z-6G004-A. After getting my new part home I was examining the difference between the two and looking at the sensor, I noticed that there was a slight bulge all around the middle of the prob section of the OEM sensor. After installing the new CHT sensor I took the truck for test run to get the truck up to operating temp. Before I installed the new sensor after I parked and tried to restart the engine the truck would not start. It would turn over, but would not start. I also noticed that I did not hear the fuel pump turn on after the key was turned. Like others, I have replaced/cleaned out sensors relays, ports and hoses etc, but stop short of replacing the fuel pump and the PCM. In my case I knew that it was not one of those two because the truck started every time when the weather was cool (below 70 degrees). After installing the new sensor the truck fired right up(It has not done this for a while) after sitting for a week. When I returned home and I turned off the truck then turned it back on the truck fired up. I did this a few more times to test. I also waited 10 minutes to let it heat soak and turned the key and the truck fired up again. Hopefully this is the end to my troubles.

Anytime a ford has stalled when hot but starts and runs fine it has been the ignition control module. 1985 f150 straight 6 - 1982 ford bronco straight 6 1996 f150 straight 6 1987 E150 straight 6. I have had this happen to me every single time i buy a flrd straight 6. Do all yourselves a favour. Buy 2 ignition control modules and if its the older syle install both. When the day comes your fuel tank is full and you get that jerking stalling farting motion. Go unplug your old one and carry on. Switch out the dying one when you can. Any old school ford owner with a straight 6 will tell you to always have a second ignition control module handy for this exact reason. My dad cut the 1985 ford f150 in half and made a trailer out of it just because it broke down on us when going camping one summer and no one could figure it out. I have more stories but lacking time. Its always been the famous i.c.m.

I had the same problem. Will not crank over smooth at operating temp. I installed a starter shim that I purchased from napa. I believe the part# is 655- 1188. No more hard cranking issues when eng gets warmed up.

Check your ignition module located on drivers side fire wall. Two screws easy fix just went through the same thing on my 94 r300

Had the same issue with my 89 F250. Starts great when cold run it and try starting again in the warm weather and sounds like a dead battery. Changed everything! Battery, starter, starter solinoid, plugs, cap, rotor, distributor cap, battery cables. Finally got the notion to replace the cable from the solinoid to the starter with a heavy duty cable (thinking it might be a heat soak problem). Haven't had any starting issues for the past year.

I have a 2007 f150 V8 Triton. I'm having the same problem with starting up while engine is still hot or very hot out. But mine is not turning over or clicking or anything. when I turn the key, nothing happens. no sounds or anything. is anyone else having that same issue.

I have 2012 F150 with V8. During winter it starts just fine. I’m now in the process of moving (about 180 miles away) and it’s summer in Texas (temps up to 100+). Started fine at home, then after a couple of hours driving, I stopped to refuel. Got back in my truck and nothing. It won’t turn over at all...nothing at all from engine. All electrical equipment in the truck works fine, but it seems no power is getting to the starter. After a little while, e erything cooled off and truck started just fine. Drove another hour or so and stopped to unload things at new place - got in to start and nothing again. Got it towed to Ford dealer and all they could come up with was to replace 3 of the relays. Headed back home and it was just fine. A few days later, I made another trip and same thing again. Once I got it started again (after cooling down), I made it home with no issues, but I never turned the truck off.

been having same issue with 02 f150 and its something in the security system making the keys look unreadable. after i unhook battery for a lil bit it dtarts and runs fine a

Did anyone ever figure out what was causing this ?.....Because I have a 2003 fordf-150 and it's doing this....please help me figure this out.... My husband of 13 years... My soul mate ....my best Friend in the whole world Went to the gym 6 months ago and had a heart attack and died at 54 years old..... And this was his truck and I want to take care of it but I don't have a lot of money for mechanics to line their pockets so does anyone have an answer

I figured it out folks, Electronic Fuel pumps are built so that Gas will keep them Cool, So, If you drop below a certain amount of gas it either fries the pump or causes had starting when it gets warm so if you can keep at least a Quarter tank at all times, personally I think a class action is called for because we were never told this information. That's all I have to offer 12 Mechanics later

I have 1994 ford 150 truck it start but when I take off it go to jerking

Will a352 fix in a 1994 ford f150 truck

I do not have an answer.....just the same problem Replaced fuel pump, fuel pressure gauge, fuel relay, COMPLETE TUNE UP- plugs, wires ,etc etc even after spending over $2,000 in repairs, still bucks, hesitates, does not start after 20 minute running, most of time will start after 1 hr +

My truck has been in the shop 3 times now. The last time they did a "wire overlay" from the starter relay to the starter. All this means is they tie-wrapped a new wire from the relay directly to the starter, bypassing the wiring harness. Everything worked ok for a few days. On Tuesday of this week (7/3), it was in the mid 80s and I had to run a few errands. A couple were close to home and not problems. Another was across town (about 10-15 miles) and I went into the VA clinic for about 39 minutes. When I came back out, same thing. I turn the key and nothing - the starter doesn't turn over at all. It's not a weak battery - checked that already. Now it's in the shop for the 3rd time. Thankfully, I'm a middle school teacher/coach and am off for the next 2-3 weeks, but then everything starts up. I'm at a loss, the Ford dealer is guessing, and I don't trust the dang truck any longer. Any suggestions!!?

Buy a CHEVY!

Just kidding^^^^^^

I own three Bronco's 93 5.8, 94 5.0, 95 5.8. It seems to be the number one cause of no start after running ,and trying to restart is the ICM, and or PIP. Get your self some simple tools....fuel pressure gauge, and a spark tester. Start with checking for spark first at spark plug ,then coil. If you have spark , then the ICM is o.k. No spark, good chance is the ICM is bad. If you have spark, then check fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Zero to low pressure, bad pump, or clogged filter. If you hear the fuel pump cycle on, and pressure is in proper range, pump, and relay is good. Right now my 94 start's up fine, but after driving it in 109 degree temp., I stopped it , went to start it, and it wouldn't start. turns over fine, but won't start. Had it towed home , turned key a few times, I could hear the pump cycle on, then it stopped. Checked fuel pressure, it was zero because pump would not cycle on. Went out the next morning, it started right up! I didn't run it long, just parked it, and will figure it out later. It could be the ICM heating up, causing a no signal to the fuel pump, then when it cools down I get a start.

there seems to be 2 no start heat problems, 1) cranks fine- won't start, like there's an electrical problem. 2) cranks fine but it's starving for gas. mines the latter, thought it was a leak in the injectors , pulled them, all's fine, fuel pressure fine, n ext I will change the coolent temp sensor

Did anybody figure this out. I have an 89 bronco 302 and when the engine gets warm and it’s hot outside I lose fuel pressure. Someone help. I have changed everything. I haven’t relocated my TFI module yet but have done everything else. Showing no codes either.

I have an 89 e250 5.0 Eli Seems Ike a lot of us are having the same issue. But this thread covers many issues. Mine is that it runs like a top then dies as if I turned the key off. Just dead. Trying to restart results in a “dead battery” effect. Last time this happened it cranked so slow it was as if someone had a ratchet on the flywheel and was cranking it by hand, but it started. This was after waiting for 40+ minutes. I have changed Distributor Temp sensor Power relay Fuel relay Alternator In tank fuel pump Hp fuel pump And the brain None of these had any effect. People mention the heat shield around the starter. Will a hot starter cause it to die in the first place or just not restart? i am really at a loss here, and I am usually pretty good at this stuff. Any real help would be appreciated.

I was having this problem with my solenoid and after I replaced it I covered it with a heat shield and is doing fine now, u could try to do the same to your starter out of some sheet metal

I have an 89 f350 crew cab starts up and runs like a champ....and doesn't stall out but if you turn the engine off while it's hot it may not start again until it cools down.....the battery cable feels very hot....I suspect that replacing the battery cables with heavier gauge cable may solve the problem.. as Katrina stated 2 months ago on this thread.. it solved her problem..i bought this truck used about 20 years ago... has run great but experienced that very persistent problem as well as as problems related to the fuel selector switch... over the years i replaced the engine.. new gas tanks new everything.....very reliable but don't turn it off!

I have a 95 F150 XLT, with 5.0. After it blew an upper radiator hose six months ago, and got hot before I could pull over. It would run fine until i shut it off. then would not restart until it was stone cold. 5 to 6 hours. I've thrown $$$ at it to no avail. New dist, modules, coil, etc. Today after reading this thread I replaced the 25 dollar temp sensor. Problem solved. Runs and starts like a dream every time !!! Me and my pocket book thank you...

This thread is conflating at least 3 different problems. As for the "starts great when cold, but when hot, it labors to turn over as if your battery is half dead. Battery is actually fine and hot when checked. Let it cool, starts fine. Some possible causes have been mentioned: 1: Hot starter. (maybe so hot increased electrical resistance makes starter weak) I would suggest placing a fan blowing on the hot starter. If it works fine in shorter time, that is the problem. 2: Hot solenoid: same solution, but you might try bypassing the solenoid by jumping the two main poles with a screwdriver. If it cranks fine, that is the problem. 3.Binding at starter and flywheel. cool it off with air or water. Or, add a shim to slightly angle starter away from flywheel. check for improvement. If there is binding elsewhere, I would expect a worsening problem and maybe catastrophic failure. 4. Advanced timing seems unlikely to me. Engine would run very rough and gas mileage would be very bad. 5. It never hurts to check cables and connections for loose, dirty, rusted connection. Heat will make any resistance greater. hant's all I got.

We are having a similar issue with our E150 Econoline Van. She starts and runs like a champ with no problems, but if we drive any distance she will start again and either struggles to stay running or goes 3-8 miles down the road and dies. Twice we were stranded so long along the highway we called a tow company and after trying one more time (after 30+ minutes) she’ll start again. We literally drove her home for 600 miles and never turned the engine off when we stopped for gas and never had a problem...only when we actually turn the motor off. We just replaced main fuel pump and front tank pump and still had the same issue after making s test road trip about 150 miles. It’s back at the mechanic but they can’t replicate the issue because nobody can drive it for an hour at the shop. We’re going to try and drive it and take it back to them after about 100 miles or so and hope to find a solution. It definitely seems like a fuel issue, but why only after running for X amount of time and why only after turning engine off and trying to restart?

H0neybug this may sound a bit ridiculous but check your battery cables and the connections on the starter the alternator and your ground. These wires can heat up and act faulty. When you're starting your vehicle the wires are all cool and all you need is that first start and it'll run forever but after driving for a while they Shake around and heat up which can cause your intermittent starting issue. May not be your issue but it's worth a check trust me hope you figure it out soon.

I had a problem with my 1989 F150 inline 6. Started up fine when cold, after driving for a while to warm up, turn it off for a little while, try to start and wouldn't start easily. I could push the gas pedal down all the way and it would start. It also would be rough for a while until it calmed down. Also notice that sometimes at a stop light the rpms would fluctuate. The solution for my truck was a new fuel pressure regulator, I used NAPA part 2-19502. I hope this is a good part because I don't want to have to replace it again. I was able to replace it without taking the upper manifold off. No way I was going to go through that. It took me about 1 hour to replace it. I had to remove one hose, it was a hose that went under two other hoses. I got a 5/32 hex with a 3/8 socket, it was about 1.5 inches long. This allowed me to get the rear bolt off with some extensions that pivoted slightly. This 1.5 inch long socket also help me get the rear bolt back on by carefully placing the bolt back in with just the 1.5 inch 5/32 hex socket sticking straight up so I could squeeze my hand in and start the bolt. I got the bolt to stick to the socket with some chewing gum, high tech. That was the hardest part of the job. Also recommend a telescope magnet to get the bolts when you drop them. Happened to me once and I was lucky to find it. It made a huge difference replacing the regulator. Now my truck is running smooth and starts fine.

This is your problem: replace the Pick up coil in the distributor, under the rotor, it is bad overheating, and when it does this the truck looses its knowledge of where and when to spark, it was a problem in many ford motors, mustangs, and the lot, they all used the same distributor style, and use a good replacement part, do not mess around with this. spend the money, and drive on!

My 1991ford f150 started this problem start ok first time it would die then when you tried to start it it would spin moter but not fire.i checked the coolent level and added a gallon of antifreeze and a half gallon of water oil was down one quart.now it starts every time and runs great I see no leaks that is why I was asking about a low coolent sensor that would keep it from starting

I have a question on a 1999 Ford f150 pickup when I try 2 start the pick it clicks in the dash and when I have someone elce tern the key and I lisen under the hood and I don't here no clicking or nothing iv checked the battery and everything I could think of what 2 do and nothing and after the truck cools down after a . It starts what can I do 2 fix the prablim

Try getting some exhaust wrap the exhaust could be putting off to much heat and frying the starter until that can cool down did that to my bronco and never had a problem now my f150 is doing it to just replaced the alternator on it

For those of you that have trucks that are still running fine aftere theyy are warmed up, but hard to crank over like dead battery or super high compression, it could be leaky fuel injectors flooding the engine after you shut it off. Test the fuel pressure at the fuel rail and make sure it holds pressure for 10 minutes after shutting off.

I had that problem and when I was cleaning my injectors I noticed one of them was leaking and I replaced it BAM! Problem solved. I bet people with this problem runs there truck a while then let it sit for 30 minutes or so and crank it smells strong raw gas smell.

pick up in the distributer

I read many of the replies.... they all make for a fine laundry list of parts to build a new car.... Yet, noone suggested having diagnostics done, to determine what is wrong. Seems all car forums are like that..... Diagnostics=Rip OFF / Replace the kitchen sink and all else = no hesitation

1989 f250 4x4 yes the notorious hard cranking after 30 minutes running. Starts like a charm when cool. Bingo that's the problem, right? Like most I have a new battery, starter, fuel pumps & fuel selector (2 tanks) that was a different issue didn't effect starting. Anyway, to figure it out starter gets hot after running. I suspect a heat shield may fix this issue. Possible to wrap exhaust pipe as well near starter keeping heat away. Just make sure your battery and connections are good.

Coolent temperature control

Took me 30 minutes to skim through every answer. I realized something. Just don't buy a Ford.

I have the same problem in my 1995 Ford f-150. Have tried lots of things, been in shop several times, big bills!! If anybody gets a good solution please post.

Okay. So Ill add another to this. 1990 f150 4x4 302 manual. I have the problem that some others have . Problem is it starts and runs but after shutting it off ,wont start until it cools down again. Wont start when hot. Will start if only run it for a bit and shut off but nit if it runs 20 mins+. It Sounds like dead battery but obviously its not .What i get from this thread is that it is either 1) coolant temp sensor (my heat gauge is not working so possibly) 2.) Timing. I just Put in a new complete distributor,one with the ignition control module mounted on side of dizzy. My dad thinks this is the problem. Others mentioned it on here too. 3) ignition switch . The switch inside steering column. ,NOT the key tumbler/cylinder whr key goes and not the ignition control module. 4.) Heat from exhaust heating up the starter. 5.) Flywheel/starter binding. My dad said he checkd thst but that was last summer. Said it didnt need shim or whatever. So all parts i actually NEEDED. I have put brand new plugs, fuel pump relay as well as EEC ( computer) relay . I Needed those for another issue. I properly diagnosed those. I Also put brand new starter. Dont think i needed it honestly . Also put about 4 new starter solenoids (the one mounted to inner fender near battery). ppl kept telling me THEY were the problem. Well ive bought 4 now,all 4 cldnt have been bad.i dont think i needed those either as problem persists. I Started replacing those a cple yrs ago when starter wld stick on after truck had started up and was running. Now cld it be the Key switch and/or tumbler??? Also we put in a new oil pump because the oil pump driveshaft snapped in half one winter and fell into pan. Ever since THAT happened and i put new oil pump and all the other things listed like the distributor, relays ,starter ,and starter solenoid , ive had this problem of it not wanting to re-start if its warm like battery is dead. Let it cool down or wait til nxt day and starts fine. With what i have started what would any of YOU try first ? Timing? Then coolant temp sensor ? Then heat shield between starter exhaust or exhaust wrap? Then key switch and key cylinder/tumbler? Any suggestions wld be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

I understand this post was a couple years ago, however, after spending an hour reading how many people this has affected, and because these trucks are not only still out there, but continue to have this issue.... SO, if it’s been answered, I couldn’t tell you, but I CAN say, that the same Garb happened to me.,,, 1990 F-250, 5.0L, with 76k Original miles..... So, after I pulled the positive cable from the battery and solenoid, pulling the solenoid side first, I had my firearms resting on top of the passenger side fender, where there just happens to be a small scratch down to the steel fender, and where normally I’d brush it off because, well, it’s an old Ford with a common enough issue, this time I DID NOT dismiss the very faint electric shock in my forearm, the shock was less than half of what you’d feel from an almost dead 9v battery touching it to your tongue, but yet Noticeable enough to feel something,,, Realizing that shouldn’t happen, it was telling me that I myself standing there holding the Pos. Cable end, was effectively a better ground than all the cable installed aftermarket or OEM.,, never the less, better... Not Good... so I spent the next few minutes to a half hour craning every wire, cable, braided ground, chassis, frame, engine, etc, u til I felt I was able to get as many as I could, with the tools I had..... and on the side of the road..., With that finished, I got back in the truck, and just touched the ignition switch/key and barely bumped it, and she fired right up! In fact prior to this, my idle would fluctuate, ran somewhat poor, idle would surge at times, all around, not as good as its run in the past, and I’ll tell you what, EVERY issue I had prior, is now GONE! I drove about another 25-30 minutes until hot, stopped (in front of my shop, shut it down, tapped the key, and she fired right up, with ZERO hesitation!! Whereas before when hot, sounded like BOTH of my 1,000 CCA 6 month old batteries were completely dead! Not anymore! Hope this helps guys and girls!!

I have 1989 Ford motor home, F-250, 351 Windsor, fuel injected. Went on a holiday and drove about 1 1/2 hours on the highway at about 60 to 65mph. When we got off at the exit the engine seemed to sputter a few times and then again about 3 to 5 minutes later. Engine was running at the hot end of normal on the temp gauge. Drove her 20 minutes to the park and shut it off to register. 5 to 10 minutes later, got in and started fine. On the way home all was going well. Driving at 60 to 70mph, some steep hills, when we changed highways, coming off the ramp, within minutes the engine started losing power and started back firing. By the time I pulled over the engine died and would not start again. It turned over fine and seemed like no fuel to run. Let it cool while I checked under hood and inside bonnet. Except for the heat, everything seemed normal. Turned over but wouldn't start. Got it towed home and after the tow truck left I tried to start it and it started fine. I noticed when we pulled over and here at home that the inside electrical, (fridge, microwave, water pump, stove fan and Iights), are not working. Also the secondary battery is not charging and only at about half charge. All work when switched to AC power. From what I'm reading, I'm going to check all wiring 1st. There are many answers here, but the heat, loose or bare wiring, sound most promising. Possible heat shielding and maybe sensors. I'll get back if I succeed.

So I need help as well my 93 runs good when it runs but when it gets hot it starts missing when you first start it it takes forever and when it does fire it runs rough very tough for about a minute

91 ford start great drive around and then just shutoff kill all power to everything try to start it back up in the on position will not start, but if I turn it to the off position it starts right up drive a two ot three block shutdown. Changed Ing switch Same problem HELP! Willie

What ignition switch did u replace? Thr was a recall for the big white plastic one on steering column. Im gonna try to get mine done or replace it myself. Right now ive been starting it by crossing out the starter relay on inside of fender wth a screwdriver.

I have the same problem. Starts fine when cold. Won't start when engine is hot. Been to three mechanics lots of stuff replaced (as noted above). Makes no difference. Problem remains. Please let me know if anyone gets to the bottom of this.

I have found out that there was a recall for the electrical ignition switch which is on steering column up under the dash. I have same problem as eveeyone else, the truck runs fine til u shut it off and then won't start when warm unless u let it sit for about an hour. Acts like battery is dead and hard to turn over even tho battery is still over 12 volts. But I also have had the problem of the starter staying on even aftr truck starts so its something to do wth that switch. My 1990 is part of the recall for that ignition switch up under dash on column and Im Guessing it wasn't done since this truck changed hands so many times. I rigged up my own switch now rather than turning key so starter doesn't stick on however it still won't start aftr I've driven it and shut it off. My guess wiring and/or so.ething to do with that switch cuz the problem isn't just with the 1990 f150. It's a range of years and Ford has other ignition/keyswitch related recalls I seen , just not for my year but others close to it .

2018 F-150 5.0 same problem. starts fine and runs great as long as you leave it running. When hot and you stop it the battery is dead. t sit for an hour starts right up. Crazy

There are at least about 4 different problems being described here. As for motor cutting off while you're driving, had that problem in an 82 GT ford mustang, it was the "ignition box" located on the drivers side firewall, this happened in about 1985 or 86. Had the same thing happen in my 1985 ford pickup 302, happened in 1995. It was the stator module, which replaced the "box" in earlier models. When they go bad they would cut off when they were hot. I am about to replace the stator module again, same thing. As for Jeremy who said his starter stayed on after starting, I had this happen and had to replace 2 starters and 2 or 3 solenoids and cables ( I cut them with tree limb cutters to stop the cranking) it wouldn't stop cranking even with the key turned off. It turned out to be the small ground wire, not the big ground cable, that runs from the battery ground. My mechanic added a new small wire from the ground battery post to the firewall, that solved the continued cranking. I don't know which previous mechanic left it off.

my '96 F150 would not start when hot. Repair guys (three different guys) ran diagnostics and couldn't figure it out. None of them tested the starter. Yes, it was the starter. I replaced it. Problem solved.

It is either the plug in connector at the bottom of the dizzy not connecting properly or the trigger in the dizzy. Been there, done that.

91 F150 straight 6. Starts cold, never dies, but won't start after driving and warming up. Will start once it cools down for about 20 minutes. After buying this a few months ago, I found that the previous owner had replaced the battery, battery clamps, and almost every sensor and module (found the sensors and modules and the boxes from the new ones under the seat lol). Going to start with checking wiring and adding another ground wire, and adding a heatshield to the starter. I'll try to follow up with results.