truck cut off while driving and won't start back up
I was driving and the truck cut off. it was like I ran out of gas. I though that the safety switch tripped so I checked that and it was ok. I sprayed starting fluid in to the intake and it starts but cuts off as soon as the fumes are gone. when I turn the key on I can hear the fuel pump running and I put a new pump relay on it. there is a valve at the end of the fuel rail when I open that valve with the key on fuel shoots out so I know that I am getting fuel to the fuel rail buy its not getting to the engine.
9 Answers
Well, we do not know what year truck you are driving, but moderate age trucks with injection have a test port on the fuel rail. I do not suggest to defeat the mechanism on the rail as fuel will shoot out all over the place. If you suspect the fuel pump, purchase a test gauge and test the pressure properly. A decent one is about fifty bucks.
2002 4.6 my truck start sputtering and dieds out after driving about 7 miles and after a couple hours it will start up run fine, but it keeps doing that
Did you ever find out why your truck was doing that? Mine does the exact same thing
My 96 f150 does a similar thing. It runs fine after a while but then shuts off while driving and acts like it's not getting fuel, and when I try to restart it it will either just crank over and not start or will start and run for a few seconds and then shut off again. It's getting fuel to the rail and has new fuel filter and pressure regulator but still no change it does it on both front and rear tanks.
My 96 e250 is doing the same thing, but electric. Runs great, warms up good, goes dead. Cools off, starts and runs good .... heats up, same thing, dead as a hammer... cools off ... help! $600 in parts so far ...
My 95 does the same, I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel regulator, ignition module, ignition Coil, cleaned the mass air sensor and egr, a full tune up and cleaned the injectors. Nothing has helped. I just found out it may be the distributor. Does this sound correct? I'm over $1000 in parts so far.
[888]Kansas/DH answered 4 years ago
Part# DU-50 probably should change the ignition module while your at it. Use OEM parts.
I actually did change it also.
SmudgeAndBlur answered about a year ago
My 2001 F250 6.8l v10 has had gremlins since I got it. I've swapped wires, fuel lines and fuel filter, fuses, relays, solenoid, battery, alternator, now it's all about testing which fuses are staying active and sucking my battery dead. When it's power not fuel, the first thing to go is ABS, the last thing to go is power steering and you'll be in limp mode by then. If you don't have a battery gauge this is a good way to know it's a power problem.