cv joints front diff

It is 2 wheel drive until you put it in 4X4,also they not cv joints they are hub assembly.that should not affect the 2 wheel drive,if it wont move you got more problems,tranny,rearend.

yea you can pull the CV joints out but its bear of a job you have to remove the spindle and every thing to pull them out, best advice i can offer you is to just drive it the way it is, its not gonna cause any more damage than it already has, just keep it in 2WD

Cars have CV joints,not trucks,not even 4X4 is hub assembly.

which explains why every half ton truck and every chevy from halfton all the way to 1 ton with 4wd has 2 front CV joints with a fixed front differential, and cars have transaxles if you really wanna get technical with every thing and yes this truck does have 2 countem 2 front hub assemblys which hold your bearings and your wheel studs

is that not what i said HUB ASSEMBLYS??????

well darling if you knew how to type, and use proper punctuation i wouldn't have read "Cars have CV joints,not trucks,not even 4X4 is hub assembly." you should have just removed the not and the even before hub assembly so then it would read as "Cars have CV joints, not trucks, 4x4 is a hub assembly" its okay though. i mean you shouldnt call me out on the hub assembly thing you are the one who clearly stated that trucks dont have CV joints, i guess his truck is more of a 1/2 ton car then maybe?

Just take the front drive shaft off is all you need to do. You have to leave the CV Joints (which they do have dan) in or you will lose differential fluid and that's not good. You will still have rolling mass but there is not much you can do about it unless you do a lot of major changes.

I think you all should look up what you are talking about....Dodge PUs 2002 to 2008 have front CV joints, also yes you can remove the front axles and have a 2wd and you will not lose diff fluid....

So my dodge ram 2004 1500 4x4 has a suspect front axle. I was going to replace hub assembly, but given that I recently replaced it, and that the axle will not pull out easily, has made me think the axle is the cause of the "chirping" and seizing that I experienced. I am thinking about pulling the axle and running like that till I have time and money to replace it . Any help ?

I have a 05 Ram 1500 4x4. I'm thinking about pulling my front CV shafts because after I lowered the truck 2" with drop spindles they are binding up a little during sharp turns, and I don't ever use 4wd anyway. The diff has seals on the stub shafts (output shafts) so there won't be any fluid to leak out anyway.

Anybody who is looking at this thread now please don't take out the front half shafts and drive it like that. It will not end well I know from experience that the castle style axle nut needs to be torqued to 175 ft lbs to hold the hub assembly together. My hub assembly snapped and the wheel was pointing out. Soo don't do this guys.

All the hub assembly part numbers are the same for 2 and 4 wheel drive, the only difference is 2 wheel ABS and 4 wheel ABS. The 2wd trucks have the same hubs with the splined holes in the center for a CV shaft for the 4wd trucks. I think you just had a bearing failure in general.

Idk kinda funny that they both snapped at the same time less than 15 feet from the garage. And I replaced the hubs and u joints in the half shafts and torqued the castle nut. And so far so good. I have 35" mud tires soo Idk if the extra weight contributed to the failure. The part numbers could be the same I never looked for myself but that's just my experience.

I am also wondering if i can run with no cv shafts. Everywhere i look seams to have mixed answers. I just looked at my 2wd and it looks to have the same bearing and all its even got the spline threw it for a front cv shaft to slide threw. I need my truck for work in the am and my shaft coming out of the front diff is so wore that my cv shaft slaps around on it because the prick i bought it from 2 days ago rebuilt it and did not put the retaining clip on the shaft that the cv shaft slides over and locks on

I've been running without them for 6 years now. what I'm wondering though, can you take the drive shaft out for the front diff without leaking any fluid from the transfer case. I want to take all of it out.

ah,,,ok, that was a bit ago, but if memory servers, the axles spline into the differential and the seal is before the axles. Let me put it this way. We replaced both and didn't drip a drop of oil.

You can take the driveshaft out and pull the cv shafts, just leaving the diff mounted under the truck with no ill effects. As long as the output shafts seals are still good, no oil will leak out.

alls I know is you do not need to pull the axles and run your truck with just the hub assemblies it will not work

without the Axle through the hub in the nut on it it has nothing to hold the back of the bearing togetherso I recommend no one takes the Axle out and tries to drive it that way

The bearing is the same for 2wd and 4wd.

the hub assemblies for 2wd and 4wd are the same part number. however, you can NOT remove the cv axles (half shafts) and drive that way. the hub assemblies are the same part number because the 2wd dodge ram has spindles on both sides that slide through the hub just like the cv axles on the 4wd models. what i have done in the past on my 2003 dodge ram 1500 4wd is to leave the inner cv joint and spline in the hub assembly and remove the rest of the shaft going to the differential. and no you will not lose any fluid.

The spindles and hubs are the same for both 2wd and 4wd. I have 2" McGaughys drop spindles/knuckles on my '05 1500 4wd. You won't lose any fluild when you remove the shaft from the differential if the output shaft seals are good.

if you remove your cv half shaft and try to drive. you will not go far. my mechanic removed mine... and two new hub assemblys and a tow truck bill later, we realized that you definitely need that axle and nut to keep the new bearing together. this is from experience.and a day full of aggrevation. mechanic ended up seperating the half shaft and using half of it with the big nut to hold everything together. this was for a dakota

The only thing I will say is if you are going to drive slow and a short distance to get your truck home or to a shop for repairs, pulling the axle out is fine but you must be EXTREMELY CAREFUL. I just recently replaced the hub assembly on my 96 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 because the wheel bearings were shot. In the process of getting the spindle out of the old hub assembly, it got deformed to the point the hub nut would not go back on. So I took the axle out. 3.5 miles down the road the hub assemble separated from the base that bolts to the knuckle, wheel bearings went everywhere, and the tire came off with the hub and brake caliper still connected to the rotor. Here is the end result in the photo below and I am still trying to find a salvage yard with the spindle and knuckle. As you can see in the photo, the tire came off with such force it snapped the ears that help hold the brake caliper in place clean off.

Are the half axles the same on both sides on 2005 dodge 1500 4×4...

interesting that folks on here are unclear on very basic information. Please understand that a 2004 dodge wheel hub for a 4wd is not only identical to a 2wd, but they are also mounted exactly the same. YES previous dodges needed the cv half shaft to hold them together, but NOT this year. take the time and look around....you will see the 2wd version has NO spindle nut and no other means to secure the hub BESIDES the 3 bolts on the back. again, reiterating, the hubs are identical, 4wd and 2wd. Also, to clarify, the "half shafts" DO contain CV joints (constant velocity) just like a car. This is very very common, especially on 1/2 tons. The "hub assembly" and the "CV joints" are actually unrelated....you can have a hub assembly with a universal joint, or a hub assembly with a CV joint. Please raise the intelligence bar.

I think some people here are confusing independent front suspension differential that is cv-shaft n bearing hubs with straight axle also known as solid axle setup , hence a leak if axle is removed. On 2010 IFS Dodge Ram 4x4 the differential will not leak if cv-shaft is removed!! If it leaks replace the seals. I have ran my truck Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 WITHOUT the cv-shafts and not had bearing failure with 35" tires. The front drive shaft can also be removed n driven with NO leaks as it does not have a slip yoke at the transfercase . I have a hard time believing the cv shaft nut torque holds any part of the bearing together and the cv shaft certainly doesn't hold tension on the bearing as the only thing differential side of the shaft is a C-clip.

GuruYVG87, thank you. I’ve tried telling them the same thing over and over again, yet those that have now clue keep chiming in.

If you take the cv joints out of a 2006 dodge 1500 you will have a hole on each side of the diff where the fluid will leak out. Just pop in a new bearing 3 bolts or a new cv shaft on each side and you can sell your 4x4 for 1/3 as much again EASY.

If you sheared the cv axle splines ya musta jammed the thing into 4x4 going backward on very hard dry pavement. Guess you shouldn't drive a 4x4 anyway...

You will not get advice on how to do the wrong thing from me. Proceed at your own risk.

HE! Mark you know what I`m talkin about or ya from DODGE.

Bought the thing used from some moron...

Drain the front dif and you wont have a leak front driveshaft should be removed at that point you have no use gor fluid to be in the diff anyway...easiest way cut out the ujoints and leave the halfshafts in the rear tack weld them in place after removing front dtiveshaft or cut them in sections after rrmoving c clips and pumkin cover to drain and access them