Blown EGR valve in 2002 Ford Escape V6. Doesn't appear to be a clogged catalytic converter

The check engine light has been on for about 5 years. The first EGR valve blew on the 14th. The second one after only about 100 miles. The next one after being parked for 10 days (but being run a couple times to keep the battery charged). The total miles was about 150. The next one blew after less than 10 miles. I made it the rest of the way home (about 70 miles) with only the problem of the engine running very rough. BTW, I am a female with no mechanical experience. I am learning as I go

Your cataytic converter should get hot but not glowing hot. On a properly working converter, the exiting gasses should be at least 100 degrees hotter than when they entered or basically the back is hotter than the front due to the gasses going through the precious metals in the converter. About the only way to sensibly check is with a digital laser thermometer. EGR valve on your car should work by vacuum so if there's a vacuum leak or the line isn't properly hooked up, it might fail.

How do I check for a vacuum leak?

With a vacuum gauge. They come in kits with tubing and fitting for less than $20. Most of them also are calibrated for fuel pressure reading... something that might come in handy some other day. Normally with a vacuum leak the car will run like crap at low speeds, however the vacuum line to my EGR valve rotted away and I never noticed. It wasn't until I got stopped at at a roadside smog check and failed the 2500 rpm NOX test did I notice the vacuum line was toast.

HHHMMMM...Interesting. It has been running weird at low speeds. Sometimes I have to "jiggle" the gas pedal to get it to go and when it catches it will surge ahead like it got a big spurt of gasoline. Can someone direct me to a specific place where I can see a diagram of where the vacuum tubing is so that I can check my car's against it? (2002 Ford Escape V6 2wd)

You can start by tracing out the tube that attaches to the top of the EGR valve. If you can locate the PCV valve in one of the valve cover, it's also hooked to the vacuum system, so there are two lines to trace out to see if something is unattached.

I know where that first one is! So I know what I will be doing part of tomorrow! Thank you for your time and help

Also, the brake booster on the master brake cylinder has a good sized rubber hose on it, it's also a vacuum line which assists your power brakes.... all a part of the vacuum system.

Can I just google image for the vacuum system diagram and get what I need to see?

I tried it, didn't see anything usable. I have Service Manuals for cars and they don't show the vacuum system. I guess they expect people to trace them. Hopefully you find a leak otherwise you're kind of back to square one. Good luck

Thanks for all your help. I am not afraid to get dirty and will be out there tomorrow doing what I can. Many blessings on you

I had this same issue on my 2001 Ford Escape after gutting the first 2 catalytic converters and cutting the 3rd one off the issue went away and I haven't blown another egr valve

Depends on wether your state does emissions tests or not. I had mine done through a muffler shop after making sure it was legal Jim.

need to see codes but also have passeges for egr checked for carbon blockage