Truck suddenly stops running, acting like it's out of fuel. There is fuel in the gas tank and, I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the ignition on. Is there a fuse, or relay that is maybe causing this to happen? Everything seems to be working the right way, it just won't run.

It sounds like a fuel pressure issue. The pump maybe pumping but it might not be putting out enough pressure for your efi system. I believe that truck runs at about 40 psi at the fuel rail. If you hear it it's not a fuse or relay. You will have to check the fuel pressure at the rail, the test port is ontop driverside about 3/4 the way back. Black cap on aluminum fuel line. The best thing would be to buy or rent a fuel pressure test gauge as it would thread onto this port. If not I've used good safety glasses a rag and a screwdriver to check for pressure. Be careful if the pump is good there will be 40 psi. With the motor off check the pressure, start it and let it run until it dies then check the pressure and shut the key off. If it bleeds off quickley and doesn't spray your fuel pump is most likely shot. But because the pump is in a horrible spot check the regulator easiest way is to pinch the return line and start the truck if it doesn't die the reg must be replaced. If you have fuel pressure after the above tests pull a spark plug and check for spark. If you don't have spark check the cam position sensor in the distributor. If you have spark with no pressure it is the pump. Halfway through 1998 GMC switched to a new fuel pump style. The older model has steel lines coming off of the top of the pump to the frame rail and then connects to the frame steel lines with short hoses, you'll need line wrenches and the ability to curse. The newer style has plastic tubes from the plastic pump casing and uses those quick connect fuel fittings and you'll need the disconnect tool. The vin should get you the right part. My brother learned there was two different pumps for the 98 the hard way, haha The tank is horrible to pull and you will need help or if it's a beater the last parts truck that we got some one just cut a hole in the box to do it!!! Have fun. P.S. pull the driveshaft it makes it easier.

i have change the fuel pump,the plugs,distributor cap and rotor and still this truck is having a hard time starting

My was doing the same thing..Was running fine and then turned off as if the ignition was turned of. Would restart after sitting over night and then die again. Fuel pump running, fuel relay good, fuel pressure correct, Problem ended up being no spark. Electronic spark control module went bad and shorted out distributor cap. Replaced both and no more problems.

Having same issue. Ive changed my fuel relay switch, ignition coil, ignition switch, and crankshaft position sensor.. Still no fire. I'm so confused and stumped. Distributor is good, fuel pump good, and its got gas.

I am having the same problem on my 1999 chevy tahoe and I have replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. Can some one please tell me what is going on. It sounds like it is out of gas but i have put gas in it and drove maybe 10 miles and last night it stopped. Last time I put gas in it was Friday and that was about 8 gallons

It could be your massive air flow sensor

Very similar problem... I was driving my 95 yukon gt and I went to back up after driving for awhile and it cut off as if I had lost power. The trucks lights were still on but the truck wouldn't crank I have no power to my electric fans and im not sure the fuel pump is running either.. There is no click as if the starter is bad I've even checked the starter checked the battery checked the alternator and there all fine i talked to a guy a few days ago he said it could be a fuse and I've checked all my fuses and none of them were bad and still nothing.. I have a feeling it maybe a neutral safety switch but I maybe wrong there.. Is there any idea on what might be wrong ?

My truck is doing same as it was last year before we put it in shop , spent over thousand dollars to fix, We changed every thing from distributor, rotor cap, ignition coil, fuel pump , filter, plugs then n now icv n plugs, transmission seals , oil seals ,n plugs.when we got it out shop they said we had fuel that had water that went through injectors, it's pumping fuel to injectors, cranks and kills, anyone can please help I'd appreciate it.

Sounds like the EGR valve is clogged had same issue on my 93 gmc. Replaced fuel pump etc.. Was pissed when I finally replaced EGR valve and it ran like a beast again.

Its not egr valve im having same problem and replaced egr and its still doing it. But it has to be electrical because when i use radio and windows or a/c and brake (brake light) my truck turns off i have no idea

Has anyone gotten this fixed yet? I have a 1999 Yukon Denali, stopped running going down the road, acted like it ran out of gas. Added gas, didn't help. Changed the Crank Position Sensor, didn't help. Changed the Spark Plugs, didn't help. No spark at the plugs, no spark out of the coil, changed the coil, didn't help. Put a meter on the wires on the coil and I have 12v when the key is on but drops to 8v when in the start position. I have 11v coming out of the coil with the key on and 8v when set to start. Any ideas would be GREATLY appreciated! (All fuses have been checked and cleared as good, new fuel pump 3 months a go)

replace electronic spark control module..had same problem. replaced this and runs fine with no prooblems

Changed my ICM, fixed my problem!

here is a page everyone on this thread needs to keep on file. the instructions are clear and easy to follow. and very thorough. it was my ICM as well but only took me twenty minutes to diagnose it and saved me from buying parts i didn't need. http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/how-to-test-the-icm-1

Yesterday i was driving my 99 gmc savanna van and it turn off on me so i was thinking it was my battery so i replace it and it still will not start so i thought it was my fill pump so i replaced it and it still will not start so we put it on the scanner and it said it was my crack shaft sensor so i repalace it and it still will not start do anyone know want it can be please help

Mackshaun. See my above post. ICM seems to be the culprit most of the time. And it's super easy to test and change out. The ICM fits 209 different models so the chance of trading one out of a running vehicle is also very easy

Also the ICM is linked to the crankshaft sensor so that's why it would give you that code

i have a 2000 chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 v8 and my truck cranks but sometimes when I give it the gas it wants to die out after I crank it and ill put it in park and the ndrive again and itll be fine till I give it the gas to leave my driveway then itll wanna die out again..fuel pump is brand new not even a week old because it went out on me..can not figure out what it could be..?? help please?

My 99 Yukon has done this more than once. Driving along and suddenly everything is OFF. I found the battery side mount terminal connection had loosened up enough to interrupt the circuit and shut down the engine. Moved it until it was tight again and bingo,, the truck started right back up. Its pretty scary when you lose power steering , and brakes etc.. but I was fortunate enough to coast to at safe stop. The battery terminal connections are notorious for loosening. Buy one of those ratchet wrenches designed just for those battery terminal nuts and keep in in your glove box.

Im telling you guys its not a fuel issue.. its the battery connection that is loose.

It is more than likely be the security system that is what fixed my truck

Well mine was a loose battery connection that just shut down the vehicle completely while driving. I got out.. wiggled the plus terminal wire until it was tight again on the terminal and went on my way.

If your fuel pump is shot you won't hear it start up when you turn on the key. A relay under the hood for the pump could be bad also.. just put your finger on it while someone turns the key on without cranking over the engine and you should feel the relay click. If it does not, try replacing it. If your engine won't even turn over it is NOT the fuel pump. Its electrical issues on the battery connection or the starter connection.

Could also be a spark issue ,, check the main distributor wire to see if it is arcing. Have someone turn it over and listen for a clicking spark or look for the arcing on the wire that goes from the coil to the distributor.

Dstraugten.... you need 14 v to start the engine. Not 8. Bad battery or loose wires somewhere.. possibly a short or bad ground somewhere.

here is a page everyone on this thread needs to keep on file. the instructions are clear and easy to follow. and very thorough. it was my ICM as well but only took me twenty minutes to diagnose it and saved me from buying parts i didn't need. http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm /4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/how-to-test-the- icm-1

Hi i can really used some help i have a 2000 chevy blazer and my fuel pump is giving me trouble.. like i would hear the pump running and try to start it nd it will run for a while then dies then i would turn the ignition key off nd back on no fuel pump buzz sound so i would let it sit for about 15min nd i would hear the pump running again its really confusing me because i have change the fuel pump nd the relay nd the fuses. So any help or ideas would be great! Thank You !

i have a 2006 ford range an have changed the fuel pump an the spake plugs and fuel filter an my truck stays on but will act like its chocking an i put in first to go and i picks up no gas like iam runing out of gas but is full of gas

I just bought a 91 sonoma..this guys dad died and he got the truck. I bought it and right away put a brand new alternater on it and jumped it off my dads truck. . It was running great. . No misses. Spits.. nothing. . Thn it stalled! I put 4 more gallons of gas in it and it wouldn't fire back up..waotd till the next day and it started right up. . Only for a minute! ! I really don't even think I hear the pump kicking in. . Could someone please tell me what you think. . Any opinions? ?

I was driving 1998 k1500 it just shutdown no warning now won't start I have changed fuel pump relay cam sensor Crack sensor icm distributer throttle position sensor changed pump also run new grounds changed pcm I'm pulling my hair out any ideas??

I have very little fuel preasure also changed fuel filter first

i have a 93 vandura 2500 its doing the same thing but it may be bad fuel pump. it ran smooth every day then when i went to start it, it sounded like it was out of gas and it has over a half tank. i really dont want to drop the tank i was thinking if i go to replace the fuel pump i could cut a hole out from the to from inside the van.

I have a 2000 Gmc Yukon denali 5.7 cranks But No start I changed distributer cap rotor sparkplugs , plug wires, fuel pump, coil I checked all fuses even bought extras, and Nothing still No spark in the #1 sparkplug, does anyone know what else it can be?? Can it be the Trimming that makes it not spark?? Or can it be the Computer?

It's a loose timing chain in the manifold plate. stop wasting money on anything else I just solved everyones problem.

i have a 2005 1500 Silverado fuel pump is new just put it in yesterday changed plugs in it has 60 psi at fuel pump but has no pressure at the fuel rail when I check it

Got a 1991Chevy 1500 silvardo no warning just started sputtering then shut off changed fuel filter alternator won't hole idle turns back on immediately mash gas it starts sputtering again charge battery it's fine battery goes low it starts again rough idling help please

98 Chevy had the same problem. I changed every Freakin sensor on it. Last ditch effort before the fuel pump was going to be the Cam Position sensor. I removed my distributor cap to find a fried rotor. I changed the cap and rotor, runs like a scalded ape now. I guess it should after New TPS, IAC, Fuel pump relay, Fuel filter, air/fuel modulator, Fuel injector flush, cleaned mass air flow sensor, etc. It all could have been avoided if I checked my rotor. I never suspected it...

STOP REPLACING PARTS AND FIND THE PROBLEM. THERE ARE TROULE SHOOTING SITES THAT TELL YOU HOW. SPARK OR FUEL IS THE PROBLEM. NOW TEST ALL REALTED. CHECK SPARK FIRST. THEN PUT A PRESSURE TESTER ON FUEL RAIL AND TEST FUEL PRESSURE. THROWING PARTS AT IT WON'T FIX IT WITHOUT COSTING YOU TIME AND MONEY. PERIOD.

I have a 98 Inc Sonoma,can't hear the fuel pump.I put it on the start position bleed the rail ,GAS CAME OUT BUT VERY LITTLE AND NO SPRAY.PLEASE HELP

I have a 98 Silverado that's straight piped, no cats or mufflers. It's been that way since August. It's only happened twice so far but when I hit the gas the truck would go fine and then it would stop getting power but I'd still be on the gas. When I pull over and just cuts off and when I try to crank it up, it would turn on for a few seconds and then cut off again. Is the problem that I have no cats or maybe something to do with fuel pump or sparks?!

I have kind of the same problem I have a Note 2 6 inch lifted Tahoe it had a stock exhaust and I took the muffler off put a Cherry Bomb muffler on it but I don't think that's my issue after running it for a little bit I can put it pedal to the metal and it spits and sputters sometimes it will even cut off I change filter for fuel and that didn't work but I can get in it when it's kind of cold and put it to the floor and it's just fine does Chevy have a weak fuel pumps? And I can put it in neutral and put it to the floor and she's got full power so if anybody knows please help

Check your distributor cap same problem driving down the road truck died. My wires to my cap were corroded. Put new wires on runs fine

Its got individual coil packs no distributor. Thanks tho

I have a similar problem,i have a 1999 gmc sierra w/ 6.0 . truck just died on the highway like it ran out of gas but I just put 15 gallons in it. Came up with a crank shaft sensor code. Replaced that and now the truck went from just cranking over with no sign of starting to cranking over a few cranks then sounds like it wants to start but never does just stumbles over its self. since then ive checked fuel pressure 50psi ,I have spark at every coil,changed the throttle body position sensor, and camshaft position sensor. still does same thing. Any suggestions will help

Hey Kevin, sounds exactly what happened to me here's a page to a quick diagnostic test here is a page everyone on this thread needs to keep on file. the instructions are clear and easy to follow. and very thorough. it was my ICM as well but only took me twenty minutes to diagnose it and saved me from buying parts i didn't need. http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4.3L -5.0L-5.7L/how-to-test-the-icm-1 Also the ICM is linked to the crankshaft sensor so that's why it would give you that code

I have a 95 Chevrolet Blazer with the vortex engine fuel injection it'll run for 15-20 minutes and then it'll just want to shut down on me and then I don't want to start back up I'm done check the fuel pump fuel pumps good how to change the air flow controller have changed the map sensor and still want to keep running for about 15 minutes and then shut down and then I don't want to start and then when it does I will there's a popping in the motor is that the fuel injectors

I have a 1996 GMC C1500 V6 Vortex 4.3l with a 5 speed tranny, I have a fuel problem I've replaced my fuel pump because it wasn't coming on, I replaced the sensor, ICM , fuel filters inside and out of tank, spark plugs an wires, distributor cap and rotor ,and starter cause it wouldn't crank finally it would crank but still no fuel. my injectors are not coming on to give my engine fuel. any help

I am a mechanic like dog is a cat, but... This happened to me after work today. It shuttered and died and wouldn't start back up. It is the ignition module right by the coil. The fuel pump worked fine. Took the coil wire off and cranked the truck over no spark. Took the ignition module to oreily's to get it tested and it was bad. The module cost me $90 and a case of beer for the guy who was kind enough to stop and help. I hope this helps.

I was having same issue..truck would die after 15 mins of driving then wouldnt turn on till next day..was stummped cuz it would still turn on but die..changed icm..coil..even took apart my plenum to clean my injectors...fuel pump would engage...had pressure at port on top....after spraying starter fluid into throttle body it would start but die rite away..so after a week of fighting with truck i decided to change fuel pump...turned out to be the answer to my nightmare..my old one wasnt putting out enuff pressure to engage my fuel injection..so yea a fuel pump can b tricky if it wants..

My 93 chevy k1500 has no power to injectors why is that so

im been a mechanic assistance for six yrs i never seen this happen before i have an 97 C1500 Chevy 5.7L spider fuel injectors truck just died on me try to get an jump engine just spin over an the dam battery died left the truck at toco bell over night next night i got an tow from a friend i change the ignition model an the rotor got my fire back too the the plugs but those old plugs was an dark orange i took number one plug out put it on the exhaust manifold that how i check for spark the only thing i notice battery voltage was 14.7V drop when i turn on the ignition key pump on voltage drop to 12.7V change out the ignition coil charge the battery again got the battery up too 14.7V engine turn over twice slow crank no start had me thinking crank sensor since oil coming out of the crank sensor i check my OBDll scanner no codes never mess with the fuel pump because that valve on top the the intake got an gas line with the truck too bleed the air out or put a fuel pressure gauge on it like everyone says this type of truck will not start if it low pressure have to be between from 55-65 PSI i press my valve down had pressure when i change out my fuel filter or check out the MAP sensor

i also change the cam sensor too i dont have an fuel pressure gauge

Hello

Anybody noticed any issues with fuel delivery with replacement fuel pump with external strainer? Fuel pump works but inconsistent fuel delivery which causes a "no start" issue. External strainer sits on bottom of tank which could cause fuel delivery issue. Switched to fuel pump with internal strainer and never had any issues since

I have a 99 oldsmobile vracada was going 70 and it died webt to restart sounded regular but like it had no gas. Poored gas into carborator or whatwver still would not start. Still sounded like was crankibg fine then new battery died so its on highway while me and my baby walked to closest hotel ive had no problems till now plz help

here is a page everyone on this thread needs to keep on file. the instructions are clear and easy to follow. and very thorough. it was my ICM as well but only took me twenty minutes to diagnose it and saved me from buying parts i didn't need. http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm /4.3L- 5.0L-5.7L/how-to-test-the- icm-1

I just broke down on tbe side of the hwy 5 hours from the house. my 98 gmc 3500 has been just shutting off out of know where. I got it towed to a mechanic a few days ago and it started up for him and he didnt have any issues. no codes or anything showed up. After messing with it on the side of the road I noticed when the engine started to cut off i pushed down on the fuel pump relay and it immediately corrected the engine malfunction. I did it few times after that to see if it was a coincidence and that was the issue. I put paper towel in the fuse box to push down on the relay. works lime a charm and im back on the road.

have a 1995 gmc yukon it bogs out alil bit when i drive and at idle it jumps sometimes and is low. so i changed map sensor idc sensor tps sensor plugs wires air filter fuel filter and fel pump but nothing then i notice when i change the fuel pump it didnt wana start so i checked the relay swap that with the oil pressure sensor since it connects to the fuel pump but nothing notice the wire inside the connecter poped loose so fuel pump turned on now it takes a few times to crank then it will start? wtf!!

I have same problem on my 99 Tahoe 4wd. I can hear pump, fuse is good, checked the line to see if it's getting gas to engine and it was. It'll crank and run for about 30 secs and die

Probably continuem transfuncioner

Check oil pressure sensor.

My truck stalled on me while driving its a 90 chevy c1500 with the 5.7L tbi.. I had replaced the fuel pump and relay not to long ago.. It would crank but wouldnt start.. The issue it had it was that the injector cables had worn out and created a short.. Once those were replaced it hasnt stalled anymore

Not trying to say if my problem is the same as everyone else's on here but I figured out what was causing my truck to die I have 97 gmc z71 ext cab after 7hrs straight working on the truck I figured out what was causing the truck to die while driving it after changing the fuel pump out 3 different times new fuel filter fuel pressure regulator,icm,iac motor and tps sensor the last thing I checked was the wiring harness to the fuel pump but that wasn't the problem either has anybody on cut their bed where the fuel pump is to gain access to your fuel pump to service it cause you think it's a short cut will it's not here's the problem with that method the guy I bought my truck from done the same thing only problems is when you cut that bed where the fuel pump is at to create an access point to the pump you have no support left at that access point if you just made it where you can push the access back like a flap will when do that it bends that metal and when you close that flap it's bent downwards creating a dip in the metal which is going to hit the tubes on top off your fuel pump causing the tubing to break loose and suck air into the fuel system causing the motor to lean out and die if your bed is cut and it's just a metal flap there cut it completely off the other thing is if you have a metal fuel pump sending unit hanger assembly with metal tubing coming out the top it can be 3 tube or 4 start your truck and let is idle reach down and pull up on one of those tube it does take much just pick up on a little bit if the motor dies you need a new hanger assembly it runs about a 120.00 dollars and find a way to either weld your bed back up or put some kind of brace on the flap to keep it from hit the tubing on top of the hanger assembly

ok I have a 98 Chevy Van with a 350 motor.... having some of the same problems everyone else is having. It started about a month ago, went to leave the house backed out put in drive and it just shut off. Changed the fuel pump, still nothing cranks but wont start, changed fuel pump relay, nothing... primed it up a few times fired right up. Ran for a day then did the same thing going down the road it just shut off. Let it sit a couple days went and tried to fire it up and it did start, ran for a month. Then it does it again going down the road just shuts off outta nowhere. After googling and reading changed the ICM still nothing. Changed the distributor cap and rotor button still nothing if anyone could help that would be great

Well, here's one for you. 1994 S10 Blazer with 4.3l. Truck runs great, however, periodically will shut down while driving at higher speeds with AC on. Turn off AC, will crank right back up, and run at 70 MPH for forever. Turn AC back on, run no more than 30 minutes, shut down. Runs perfect with AC on at lower speeds (55-60 MPH). I think something may be heating up and killing it with the AC on, but haven't found a connection anywhere. Any ideas?

I have a 2000 Chevy express 3500 having same problem I turn the AC on and it blows the Distributor cap did it to me 3 times already Van will just shut down as long as I do not turn the AC on runs fine turn the AC on it blows the distributor cap I change it and it runs fine again I am thinking it might be a badd compressor pump pullin too much amps

Has everyone checked their grounds? One on frame near gas tank and filler neck. (Main ground for fuel pump harness). Main engine ground on driver side of block below exhaust manifold. One right below driver door on frame. One on front of engine cross member. Then two on firewall above left of brake booster. I was having a lot of the problems being discussed on this thread. Just for s$#ts and giggles I thought back to the best lesson I ever learned while working on motorcycles, when all else failed... check your grounds. When checking all these ground locations on my 02 Silverado, I found that most connections had rust or factory paint beneath them. A new fuel filter. A clean mass air. And good bit of ground cleaning I had my old truck back. Good luck to all.

I have the same problem with my 92 chevy 5.7 it jst quit while going down the road and now itll jst turn over but wont crank. I have changed the throttle position sensor still doing the same thing it also got a new distributor cap all new wires and spark plugs. If the fuel pump or any other fuel related problems went out will it make the truck just quit or would it sputter and then die like it ran out of gas. It also has brand new alternator and battery.

When I turn my GMC 1500 1993 and I just got it from a guy who had it in the backyard of his place. It starts and I have to keep my foot on the gas for it to run,and when I get my get my foot off the gas it shuts down and floods out. Why this truck won't idle and run by self

I'm thinking adding some blinker fluid on right side only will fix tbe problem! Lol...I've been a mental bowl of spaghetti reading all the fixs that work for everyone trying to keep up! Sounds like need to check every thing! In the end, I too feel it's the ICM and or EGR. The oil pressure sensor will have your tea pot winking at idle after warm. Good luck folks!

It is the Map sensor not allowing it to get enough gas by pulsing the injectors it'll pulse to injectors a little but not enough to keep it running. The quickest solution I have is just to unplug it and the truck will run fine

I scratched my head over a truck for 3 days before I finally figured it out and it was by chance.I just unplugged the map sensor and it fired right up and stayed running. Before it would start and idle for a minute and then die, and it was starving for fuel, but the injectors were pulsing.

Go to this link: https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/4.3L- 5.0L-5.7L/how-to-troubleshoot-a-no-start-1#1 It covers step by step procedures and gives explanations on how things work on these engines.

Keep in mind on some of these chevy trucks, vans , from 96 to 2000 The BCM is a sneaky devil located under the dash it will shut you down while driving and you will throw money at it and it still wont run after a good drive wait 6 to 10 hours and it will start right up like nothing was wrong mine caught me three times on the highway BCM means Body Control Module

I have a problem with my 2000 Chevrolet Z71 it starts then dies, I took the fuel lines from the fuel pump off to the engine it ran then died, I then put that back on took the fuel line off from the tank to the pump it ran out and ran so and died?? So what's the problem??

check fuel pressure supposed to be 55-60 if not change pump and filter mounted on the frame

My 1998 chevy Express van will do just fine for about 15 to 20 minutes, then it will jump out of OD into third. Then I can pull up to a traffic light, when i get the green light and accelerate it will skip and sputter and if i ease off the accelerator it will stop skipping and sputtering but if i give it gas it will spit and sputter. If i put it in neutral, shut it off, start it back up, it will run fine for a little while.

Please check fuel pressure 55-60lbs replace fuel filter first then go after the pump in tank next if you have the cool off and start up issue means you run the truck for a while then it just dies cools off starts up like nothing is wrong then its your Crank sensor. GM crank sensors do this sometimes with not throwing a code or check engine light. if you have a tranny issue tranny goes into limp mode like up above that is the temp sensor near the thermostat housing 5.7 or on the 4.3 engines front left side above water pump sneaky little devels lol Good luck all !happy cruising