1998 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE, 5.0 L, Extended Cab, it gets error codes P0102, P0108, P1351 and dies or stalls all the time?

Asked by HawkNo1 Oct 24, 2016 at 08:41 PM about the 1998 GMC Sierra 1500 C1500 SLE Extended Cab SB

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I changed the the coil and the part that runs the ignition system and the oil. Including the distributor and coil and the coil controller, crank shaft position sensor. My engine dies all the time and I cannot drive it due to that reason. I had a mechanic say it was a fuel pump but why does it fire up and run sometimes. Plus I replaced that about 7 years ago and it should be running just fine. I never let the gas go dry so it should be fine. I honestly suspicion something like the timing chain or something serious internally because it is not running right when it does run. It feels like it is rough even though it sometimes idles good. But it spikes high on the tachometer when it is running. I also have to keep it over 1K rpm's. I can't drive it because everytime I try to it stalls and dies but in ideal I can run the rpm's up to 5K with a few bogs in it but it runs for a while before it all the sudden dies. The only code I have are the P0102, P0108, P1351. I'm at a loss and I do not believe it is the fuel pump.

8 Answers

144,885

Agree with Js08016,but all so check the fuel pressure,this will confirm if it is pump or not,

1 people found this helpful.

I changed the fuel pump and fuel filter. When it is cold it ideal for a while then it stalls. But when I drive it it stalls and costs then goes again. When it stall it loses all power to the tachometer. It goes to 0. I am begining to fill like it is a electrical problem. Someone told me its because I have so many keys on the key chain it ruined your ignition switch? One of my keys is so worn out that I can pull it out with the engine running and it still is running and I can reinsert it in the ignition switch and turn it off. But I checked the gas pressure and it is at a idle 56 psi. I'm at a loss here.

One other thing. I was wrong. The mechanic said he just turned on the ignition key and did not fire up the engine when it read 56 psi. My bad!!!!

I put a heavy duty ground wire from the engine to the fire wall with dielectric grease to prevent corrosion. Still stalls. A year later and tons of money into parts and it still stalls. A recent mechanic told me when I replaced the crankshaft position sensor I also should have replaced the camshaft position sensor? I honestly don't even know where the camshaft position sensor is or what it looks like but the crankshaft position position sensor cost $75. Why didn't when I purchased it and it is not mentioned in anything I've read about the crankshaft position sensor being replaced. Does anyone know a good mechanic and honest one and not too expensive one on Bethel island, California?

Reach down and push on the crank sensor connector and see if you hear a prime. If so you got my problém a bad connector or break in the wire sending signal to icm

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