Electrical Problem new battery keeps needing jump start

JP, these issues can be a bear to figure out. The issue is that many things still need access to power when the ignition is switched off. If you have an electrical test light you can remove one of the battery terminals and then connect the test light "in- line" to the battery. You can remove all of the fuses and then start putting them back one at a time until the light lights up, that what is pulling power. Now this may be normal, you will need to look at a manual to see which items still have power when the ignition is off. I had to do this with my boat and it ended up being a short in my radio that was drawing 4 amps when the system was off. Usually a radio only draws a very small amount of power to retain things like your preset stations. Good Luck.

JP...You have to remember that when you jump start the jumpers are mostly connected the the cables and not distectly to the battery...there could be a faulty connection between the termnal and the pole of the battery. When trying to crank have someone listen for a loud click from the starter solenoid if you hear the click and the engine does not crank over it means the contacts in the solenoid are defetive. You can also check this by putiing on the head lights and If the light does not go very low when carnking, the soleoid is not energizing the starter. To check alternator measure voltage at baterry terninal and when you are able to start the engine check the voltage again...it it is not a few volts higher with the engine running you alternator is defective. To check for battery being discharged by some apparatus...get a DC amp meter with a 10 amp capability and connect is in series with the positive batter terminal...turn off eveything in the car and the ampere drain should be minimal and if you remove the fuse for the ECU it should read ZERO.

sfreeberg595, would that work here, because to many of the circuits are "Hot-Constant" on this vehicle,so not sure if any of those would show as a draw as soon as I plug them back in, or if they wouldn't show as a draw until the part that is powered by each "Constant Hot" fuse is turned on. Alfonso,deffinitely not a contact problem at batt terminals. This has happened before, but I load tested the batt back in Nov 16 & replaced it with a better one, because the one that was there(less then 2 yrs old) had prematurely failed. Replaced it on 11/23/16 w a brand new 5 year batt, and everything was fine up until 3 days ago when it all started again, hence my thinking that it is either the vlt reg built into the ALT, or a parasitic draw down on the batt. My thought on the starter is that it does work fine every time whether off the battery or with a jump. I was windering if the solenoid on that could be a parasitic draw due to something internally, I was just wondering about an easier way to check for a draw down, because the Starters & ALTs on these are a royal pain to get at and pull so I was trying to avoid it if poss. Question for you now is if i do what you said w the ammeter, wont all or some of the fuses that are "Constant Hot" in the fuse panels show as a draw? If pull the ECU/M fuse, that doesn't kill current to everything in the car does it? I thought the ECU/M only fed certain control/accessories.

Your problem could be larger that normal draw..Did you check the Alternator? The way i stated is very easy and very accurate. The volatge regulator in the alternator uses a controlled voltage but the output rectifier diodes in the alternator does not...one leaky diode can dischager your batterry in no time flat. To check for this condition the engine shoud be cold and if you have a leaky or shorted diode in the alternator the housing of the alternator will be warm or hot...it should not be so if the engine has not been in use..

i was told from a mechanic that he worked on one and the alternator had to be a dealer alternator or it would not give enough also check the battery sensor hope this helps

HEY! Did you ever find out what was wrong with the car? I am having the exact same issue right now! I do hope you respond!!!

I am having same issue as well

Ive got a 2011 hyundai santa fe. Replaced battery with new battery twice. Battery keeps getting drained needs to be jump started once a week. Everything in car is turned off. Help!!!!!!!

Same question for a 2008 Santa Fe!

3 mechanics no one could diagnose my 2014 hyundai santa fe limited

I have the same problem with santa fe 2015

New alternator, New battery. Battery light still on and alternator not charging battery. Reading 11.8 /11.7v while running. Any help?