my Lincoln town car is slow to accelerate

sounds like one or more emissions devices is not all that. suspect the EGR, but not only will it get plugged with carbon and become more-or-less inoperative, the instructions to this unit should not be bogus. See if you can pull the trouble codes up, the guy at your auto parts store should be able to help you for free on this...with the hopes of selling you replacement parts...see if you can get a printout from this supplier, then we can go down the list...

Well I have a 1994 town car and it did the same thing so I went parts store and got a fuel filter now car runs like new so my 1998 town changing her filter to if I runs better

I was so surprised that worked every one said massflow the injeters but I glad only twelve dollar filter

Oh I have three town cars 1993,1994,1998 so all kinds of problems I have had my cars have to run good they are limousines

My 1998 what it done just sitting was putting new fuses in now my key won,t start car have not found problem yet it has 273000,00 on it They replaced motor with 2000 wt '

,,,impressive!

Thank you Bob and Steven ! Did not have time to answer earlier. The EGR sounds like it could be the cause of the lack of torque. Especially since the idling sounds irregular, with some unwanted variations in revs (the engine tends to accelerate by itself when idling). Since it's a brand new car ;-), it makes sense, parts have to be replaced. "Check engine soon" on the dashbord that comes and goes, but emissions and oil consumption look normal (had the car checked when I bought it a few weeks ago). The car belonged to an elder man who switched to a brand new Lincoln. He probably only drove the car in town and never "gunned" it. Hence the horrible mileage when I got it, 13mpg in town on the first refueling. I did some highway and now I clock something like 15.5mpg in town. I'll try to get a reading of the onboard computer, but here, in the neighborhood of NY , mechanics tend to charge 100$ just to say "hello" and there are no autoparts shops as one can find in "normal" areas. Anyway, since I love the car (I used to live in France where vehicles are more like Barbie toys) and am so proud of driving a genuine American product, I have no choice, I'll invest in it ;-) Thanks to both of you, I'll keep you posted as soon as I fix the problem. Franck

Just found the possible answer while browsing on the net: defective MAF (mass air flow sensor): "A failing mass airflow sensor can cause the Check Engine Light to come on and engine starting/running problems. If the mass airflow sensor (MAF) is not functioning correctly, the vehicle may lack power when accelerating or going up hills." Sounds like the exact symptoms. I guess that it might induce the engine to run too lean at times hence the lack of torque. Got to fix that, it can't be good for pistons heads, valves and spark plugs (overeating). I'll keep you posted Franck

yes...as I stated there are a number of devices that can cause a "check engine" and subsequent lack of performance...Franck is onto something, but the MAF takes the readings at the front of the cycle MAP checks afterwards and EGR is the thing that does the work of pipin' exhaust on de-cel~...so any of these devices might be responsible, the O2 sensor will cause a 'too rich' condition if not doin' it's job properly causing the Catalytic converter to stop functioning and will make with the black smoke~ drive out to the 'burbs, my man- Steven---away from the hulllaballlo of the big city, then go to a NAPA store where they will be happy to look at your codes and sell the needed parts to you.

http://www.whitepages.com/store-locator/NY/New-York/NAPA-Auto-Parts

Thank you Bob. There's a NAPA 2 miles away from home, that's great news ! Thank you

Judge, Steven, sorry for the lack of news. Here's what I did that seems to have fixed the problem so far. Not an add, I give you my word. I treated the engine with microlon (what one calls a "snake oil"), a product I've been aware of for 20 years. Not available in France (of course..), waited for an opportunity. Results: -7% in consumption, no downshifts when it was the case, smoother engine. On top of it, I finally understood how to drive it: the car seriously pushes at max torque (makes sense), which, if I'm not mistaken, sits at about 3500 revs ? I'm used to 4Cyl., more linear it seems. Anyway, I also pushed it a few times, the car belonged to an old man, the engine most certainly was "dirty" ;-). The treatment works in to phases: cleaning, and treating. I was concerned with the cleaning stage: you basically overfill with some kind of very light petroleum smelling liquid (one quart). evaporates after an hour. The other stuff (a few oz) looks like regular oil. Takes about 1000 miles to complete the treatment (some kind of zinc based chemical, probably vitrifies ). So far 500 miles, I'll keep you posted. The third par of the treatment, I did not dare: you pour a bottle of a whatiamaycallit liquid in the fuel tank filled to a quarter, same type of resin as the other stuff, and have to drive at least 2 hours or 100 miles (refueling mandatory ;-), lest the resin solidifies in the system. I don't really see the point, as only the upper part of the cylinder (where the piston doesn't go), the injection pump and perhaps the valves "seal" will be treated, and considering the risk of f...g up the injectors, I preferred to pass. I'm not really sure the stuff works: consumption is better, but temperature is higher, less pressure-oxygen, less fuel injected. Power is far better (feels like 15-20hp more), I probably cleaned the engine by revving it a few times (no "service engine soon" anymore). We shall see. Franck

here it is

engine

I have a 1998 lincolon, she sound like she misfiring but have a slow start in speed before she take off. I have to flood the gas until she pick up speed. somebody told me it was my pistons.

Its your fuel injectors have a least aquarter tank and put the strongest GUM OUT.No lasuc gum out take some where you can punch it good. should clean your injectors out. and always use 91 octane no regular. car was built to run on 91 octane

I have to change the transmission on my 1993 Lincoln Towncar Signature series and im going to buy a used one my question is what other years/models will be compatible???

I had issues with my 94 Lincoln Towncar sputtering when trying to take off. It would idle fine, but when I'd press on the gas it would feel like someone rear ending me until it warmed up. I took it to the dealership and they placed a fuel filter on it and said it was a fuel restriction problem. They suggested replacing the pump, which was $671.00 parts and labor. I decided to take it home and do the whole "process of elimination". I started with taking the MAF sensor off and sprayed MAF cleaner in it and I placed a new air filter on it, I also sprayed carb cleaner in the EGR valve and in the Pressure regulator while it was running to get the carbon build up off... I did this all in 10 minutes or so at an Autozone parking lot and now the car runs like new. $31.00 dollars well spent.

I have a 1995 town car an it act like it's not getting anuff gas it will started sometimes an cut right back out I had it for like 3 week's an I'm tryin to see what will cause dat it's getting gas but da pressure is shoot up it's more running down can anybody help me out an tell me what dat might be cuz I'm thinking bout getting it away from me now but I love it if yall understand what I'm saying town cars make u fall in love with dem I'm thinking it's my fuel filter but not sure now it act like it want to start but won't

I believe my transmission is going out on my 1990 town car 5.0 won't go in reverse or past 2 gear it fills like once it reaches about 30 mph its like its just reving high a lil an sometimes out of nowhere it fills like the emergency brake is on then shortly after its like it took its self off emergency brake what do u guys think

i have limo town car 1996,it runs good but it does go to reverse gear.pl.any idea.