Working on timing belt replacement and .....
Hello Again,
Replacing the timing belt on my 1993 Subaru
Loyale 4wd Wagon and I'm confused regarding the
seals. I ordered the timing kit assuming the seals
would be included : ( no such luck...
Rowefast if you read this, can you tell me which or
how many seals I should be replacing. I'm thinking
there are 3 ...camshaft seal x2 and 1 crankshaft
seal? I apologize in advance, but it gets confusing
when ordering.
No apologies needed, look at this sight for what the seals look like... https://www.carid.com/1993-subaru-loyale-engine-parts/dayco-engine-timing-belt-kit-57968626.html
Looking at this, you may not need to replace if it is not leaking. See if there is oil coming out at the crankshaft. This was the seal I was thinking about... http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/bca/rnt_1038_p04_ang.jpg
The camshaft seals are also available at O'Reilly, but just look to see if there leaking behind the camshaft pulleys. The pulleys would have to come off if you need to replace them.
Ok, I'm going to look now. I had some leaking but it looks like it was coming from gear shift box, maybe a bad gasket. But I will check it out now.
A WOMEN AFTER MY HEART !
Hello Rowefast, I have some leaking behind camshaft pulleys and so I better replace seals like you advised earlier when I decided to take on this project. But I have to ask, should this ? Camshaft idler pulley (see pic please) be spinning free? It's feels frozen or really difficult to remove. Any suggestions are always appreciated
Good morning Mic70, Have you tried to pull the bolt out? And is that just a idler pulley? If it is then that is the cause of the timing belt stripping out. I'd have to check more on that if it is more than just a idler pulley. So to the seals. You will need a seal puller, a hook like tool that cost around $11. to pull the seals. By the sounds of it all 3 should be changed. To put back in the seals you'll want to find something of the same diameter, or close too it, of the seals outer diameter to push the seal back into place. Tapping the end of the tool that is against the seal. There is more money I see to be spent here as I see a water pump that you would want to change also.
Thank you for quick response, yes it is the idler pulley, unable to take bolt out. I will look for the tool. I figured the water pump was going to be another adventure..I feel overwhelmed but I can do this! I have read book, Google and watched videos and I just want to do it right. I don't want to give up on this car just yet, I use it to go skiing in Nevada. Also, I did order the kit from CariD and they are great, should arrive today
Be careful not to snap the bolt off on that idler pulley, it definitely needs to be replaced. Try working it back and forth, do not stretch the bolt. Take your time with it. Sometimes tapping on the end of the bolt head wakes it up so it can come out. Just don't be mushrooming the bolt head, need to get a socket on it. One other thing is your going to want some assembly lube of some sort for the oil seals. It would go into, on to the rubber part of the seal, the sealing surface. So just focus at one thing at a time now.
Ok I will do that for sure. I will pay attention to the details that you provide. It's been so helpful : ) Thank you.
Brave soul.... A few hints: Subie's water pumps are golden, so unless yours has a bit of pulley wobble or coolant leak evidence I MIGHT not bother to replace. The oil pump's rear 0-ring seal is known to crack and allow slow oil leak. Easy to replace while in there. Use Gates t-belts as this is a weak design where the driver side belt barely meets the need of driving the distributor; hence that belt's lifespan varies from 20 minutes (the record i'd heard of!) to 6 years. So be VERY careful aligning pulleys AND getting tension correct! Good luck.
Hey there Mr. Subaru from Boston, I know you have a lot of knowledge on this, and I am sure all of us appreciate your input, so if you can also keep an eye on getting Mic70 threw this, that would be extremely helpful. Thank you.
Yes, thank you for looking out. You guys are the best!
Ok, now I'm ready to change belts, but I really need guidance on the timing marks. I was looking at the diagram and my question is regarding the cams and what top dead center is....sorry, the marks are not really top center. Where am I timing from, a mark or little hole on cams...the fly wheels has two sets of marks as well...help
I forgot the engine size, remind me please, so idler pulley is replaced, oil seals, water pump ok?
Chase good pics online, as you do NOT want to get either cam one tooth off. Watch or secure each cam as you mount belt so as to not rotate a cam off-position.
Rowe, it's most probably the 1.8L.
Here, it is on this sight... http://www.justanswer.com/car/1u834-need-timing-marks-1993-subaru-loyale-4x4-sw-flywheel-mark.html
Yup...that's it.
Here is a video on installation of the timing belts... https://youtu.be/ZG1p70E4VXc
Watch this on the pulleys, just in case you missed anything... https://youtu.be/1VTQyQ0irH8
Yes 1.8 L Im replacing idler pulley, compressor/alternator belts, oil seal, filter, water pump is good. Now I'm ready to start. So I am going to get coffee and watch the links you shared before I proceed..... Subguru, I'm going to keep in mind not to disrupt cams. I will start with the drivers side....wish me luck! Thanks guys for being here on this fantastic site : )
Mic70, remember to rotate the drivers side cam timing mark 180° once the timing belt is on, before putting on the timing belt on the passenger side. Signing off for the evening.
Will do! Thank you Rowefast. Goodnight
If you get frustrated or lost go for a walk instead of having a beer, as the latter might suggest you just "try it" in haste when unsure.
I am unable to take this nut off oil pump to change seal. Is there a secret or am I not strong enough?
Did you need to change that seal? But anyway same way as the timing gears when you pulled them off, see that hole? Sick a screwdriver down threw it and catch it on the outside of the pump, whatever it stops against. Hold the screwdriver and you loosen the nut.
I would have thought it wouldn't need to be messed with.
Ok well, I had leaking from there. I got it off, so I may as well change it. For some reason, I think Subaru guru, mentioned that this should be replaced.
Make sure there is no wobble, play in that shaft, and as long as you got a seal, may as well...
I'm referring to the o-ring seal BEHIND the oil pump!
Ok, got it. Everything done, started car and I smell something, not sure what it is. So I'm afraid to test drive it. Car sounds ok, not too sure. Probably going to change spark plugs, check distributor and have my friend double check timing. I want to say it smells like burnt rubber or burnt oil.......... : (
You perhaps got oil on things that heat up, so wait until it all smokes off. DO check timing. That old motor prefers decent copper plugs.
Ok, great. Thank you
How is that engine running Mic70! The last I seen it was just burning off the oil residue...
Hi, The car so far is running great. I am waiting for friend to bring timing gun back to me to test it before I take it out for a drive. I still ca not believe I did this! Thanks to YOU and SubaruGuruBoston, I was really second guessing myself and got frustrated at times, but hey it was a good challenge for me. I will let you know the end result after I recheck time and take it for a long drive. Thanks so much Rowefast. : )
You are so welcome. :) Glad to be of help.
Mazeltov! Your left side t-belt will last 1-8 years, so enjoy every minute of it. Get some bigger wheels with stiffer UHP tires for better handling...and stay away from synth oil for this old 1.8i.
I am HAPPY to say that my car is running great. Today timing was checked and with a little adjustment to distributor, my old subaru is back on the road. This is definitely a mission I could NOT achieve without the help of car gurus experts ROWEFAST, SUBARUGURUBOSTON and ASKTRANNYMAN! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
I knew you could do it! Happy trails...
Geez, I did not think I would be back this soon. But my mission continues...... unfortunately my happy trails did not last long. Yesterday, after driving the car around town for a few days, I felt it safe to take it on the highway.......just before going into 5th gear, I hear a grind and I could not get into 5th. Then I felt my clutch go floppy, no resistance and the gear shift was frozen, could not get into any gear. After pulling aside safely, I turned the car off, then was able to put into neutral and all gears when car off. WHAT DID I DO? PLEASE ADVISE
Your clutch cable wasn't secured properly, or its tensioner broke. Probably not a big deal. However, these old Loyales were known to "lose" 5th, requiring a bungy cord to keep the shifter in gear...but that's not what you've described, so just play with all the clutch actuation stuff.
Ok I will check it out. So I guess its a cable and not hydraulic?
If I can remember correctly Subie didn't go to hydraulic clutches until 1996 OB?
If perchance yours IS hydraulic then of course look first for a stuck or leaky slave cylinder (these can be salvaged with steel wool and a new 0-ring!), or a blown master cylinder up top. Or lack of fluid!
I see a clutch cable called out for this one.
So I thought. Hydraulic not until 1996 2.5 or 1997 2.2?
I didn't look any further than this but the 1993 Legacy had a hydraulic clutch system, the Loyal with the clutch cable listed up to 1994, then they must have stopped making the Loyal after that as there are no listings after 1994.
First gen ('00-04) Legs had hydraulics? Just can't remember....shigh. But yes, the "DL/GL" was continued after its "natural" product cycle of '85-89 as the "Loyale" to provide a lower price point for those who could still bear its weak twin t-belt and meager, but gutsy, output. I was REALLY happy back then to leave that era and get on with the far better Legacys.
Yes, '00-04 have a hydraulic clutch.
