WHY IS THE COOLANT KEEP COMING BACK THROUGH THE BOTTLE

they said they did and skim the head .

If you are truly going through that much fluid due to a bad head gasket, you should be billowing white steamy smoke like no tomorrow. Or your oil should look like a smoothie. Are you experiencing either one of these symptoms?

No am not having these problems. Am going to change the bottle and see if that works.This is really strange, I already take the thermostat out and it's still pushing the water out of the bottle.

Take your radiator cap off when the engine is cool. Start your car and watch the inside of the radiator. You should see the fluid circulating if you have removed the thermostat. If fluid is not moving, something has to be plugged. Usually the bottle fills if the engine begins to over heat. How's your temp readings?

It's not overheating and the temp read perfect. When I remove the cap and start it the coolant moves and circulate.hen the pressure build up the coolant push back through the bottle. I must let you know the bottle have a crack on the top. That's the reason am going to change the bottle and see what happen.

Well let us know if it works! Good luck!

Sure ! I will , Thank you .

I noticed that you keep saying water. I live in the northeast where it is very cold so we run anti freeze. Maybe if you are running pure water, it just builds up too much pressure because it can't handle the heat like anti freeze can. I'm guessing you live in the hotter region of the U.S. since you removed your thermostat. Try running anti-freeze and see what happens.......

Am sorry ! It is anti freeze am talking about .

Are you getting heat? I dumped a bunch of radiator stop leak into my system once and it totally plugged my heater core. You had said in an earlier post that you had replaced your radiator. Just wondered if you had used any stop leak.

I have never use stop leak

Check your hoses. Make sure they don't collapse while running and circulating. It is good to replace hoses when radiator is replaced also make sure you have a good radiator cap. The systems on these cars are pressurized and if the cap leaks smoke while car is running it may just need a new radiator cap. Cheap.

Thank you! I change the cap but never change the hose I will do that .

I have seen this on many foreign, all aluminum engines/heads-- The pass-thru holes that mate up between the block and manifold begin to lose their sharp edge on their perimeter,, sort of eroding away towards more of a chamfer. Even a new head gasket has no support at the edges of the uneven roundness of the hole and it too fails rapidly--dumping hot gases into the cooling system for intermittent boil overs. Not sure how to restore sharp clean edges on these coolant transfer passages. This took years and many different people to arrive at this, Datsuns, Taurus, etc., to name a few.

Continuing above,,, perhaps skimming the head AND refinishing the block would restore the edges of the passage ways,, but there will then be compression increases.

I am having the same problem 95 camery changed everything still losing water and getting hot but losing water quicker than you it seems I am feeling very defeated

Marcus, try buying an air bleed kit from your local parts store. If you've replaced everything, the only other possibility is air in the system.

its the radiator cap- they go bad after many many temp cycles. if you have an overflow bottle use a japanese double-seal type cap. problem solved. datsuns didn't have aluninum blocks...

BTW- if your engine is "dumping hot gases into the cooling system"- your engine will not be running smoothly and will likely show several symptoms toward this end. do not use plain water in any engine for any reason other than checking cooling systems and only then for short periods of time. if there is any doubt as to the integrity of head or manifold gaskets, you can always perform a compression or leakdown check.

1991 Acura Integra GS. If the engine is Aluminum and you overheat it at any point things change immediately. I just went through a painstaking process of evaluating my Cooling system and came to the conclusion. Surfacing the head and Blocking the top surface of the block to ensure as flat a contact surface as possible. Good Headgasket and new bolts. Only solution.Very rare for intake manifold gasket to be the cause in these situations. One in a million. I think that with all the time I took to avoid the headgasket fix, I lost time. The conclusive test is usually a compression test where I found a weak cylinder and could see the air escaping all over the intake. The Cooling system is being pressurized and not being able to return from the bottle.

I have a 2007 Toyota Camry that failed oil consumption test. Prior to consumption test I was told the timing chain tensioner needed to be replaced. Now 3 weeks later my water pump leaking and I have a radiator leak. Prior to oil consumption test and timing chain replacement. I had no problems. What would cause radiator and water pump to go out so fast.

Do you have the 4 or 6 cylinder?

4cylinder

The water pump doesn't have to be removed to install the timing chain. So that didn't cause your water pump to leak. It just decided to fail. Are you sure that the radiator is actually leaking or is it just a loose hose clamp?

I truly don't know. The dealer was doing a warranty enhancement and correcting the oil consumption problem and called stated water pump, radiator, serpentine belt and need spark plugs replaced. Just seems odd I had car at shop 3 weeks ago and no problems.

Yeah, who knows what they really did then? What did they do for work to fix your oil consumption issue? Are you finding drops of coolant on your driveway? Sometimes these dealers see a woman come through the door and just make up a laundry list of things to replace. How many miles on your Camry? Was your timing chain making any noise? Did they replace the chain or just the tensioner?

They currently are working on my vehicle. I haven't seen any coolant on the ground. I never heard any noise but was told the tensioner had to be replaced before they could start oil consumption test. My vehicle failed and they repairing now. That's why I have so many concerns. They changed the tensioner 3 weeks ago and they never discussed any other concerns. Someone told me if they replace water pump and radiator they shouldn't charge labor because they have to remove in order to repair oil consumption problem.

Check out this article I found. It sounds like if you fail the oil test, they should be covering all parts under your cars warranty. In the article it states that the piston rings must be replaced to stop the oil consumption. This means they have to take off the entire top half of the engine. Why they would be replacing a tensioner and chain is beyond me. That has nothing to do with oil consumption. I think these people are taking you to the cleaners. Did they explain the "cure" to fix the oil problem? They may stick you with a very large bill if they're actually replacing the piston rings. If you are over the 60K warrany limit, they may be setting you up for a big bill. Here's the article: Toyota Issues a TSB On August 11, 2011, Toyota issued a technical service bulletin (TSB) [1] to dealerships which says: “Some 2006 – 2011 model year vehicles equipped with the 2AZ-FE engine may exhibit engine oil consumption. The piston assembly has been changed to minimize oil consumption.” And that “P030# (cylinder # misfire detected) DTC may also be set as a result of oil consumption.” Unlike a recall, a TSB is basically a set of instructions given to dealership mechanics on repair procedures and warranty information. In this case Toyota says repairs should be covered under the standard Toyota Powertrain Warranty (60 months / 60k miles), but only after a test. The dealer is told to confirm the engine’s oil level, mark the dipstick and then advise the customer to drive for 1,200 miles before returning for an inspection. At that time, only engines that are more than 1 quart low will have their warranties honored.

Thank you so much...they are trying to take me cleaners....I might be in court if they don't do what's right

Hi, i have a question. I have a toyota camry 2007 le, 4cylinder. My car is taking water really quickly. Like if i fill it up with water, (without starting) and totally fill it, i would take a normal drive for like 8 or 9 miles and again, it would start getting heated, and i would have to put around 3 or 4 liters of water in that again to fill it. My radiator was leaking before, from the top, like the plastic cover from where the water goes in, that was leaking, and i got that fixed. there was no heat up for 5-6 days after that. I was going to another city and i pressed the accelarator hard on my car. on the way back, my car started heating up, seemed the radiator was empty and so was the overhill box that holds the water. right now, it gets heated up quickly, all the water disappears. ( not using coolant cause it finishes up really quickly). when i fill the rad up with water, there is a sloshing (water moving) sound from the dashboard, which gets louder as the rpms go higher. the sound is like water is moving on a stream ..like water is going into a box or something. i have removed the thermostat. (for the record, the oil is not like a milkshake, there is no smoke from exhaust pipe, there is no other signs of a blown head gasket). Plus, i got the car lifted up totally and carefully inspected everything below, but there is no sign of a leak. Please help, im really really fed up.

Muhammed, if you have lost a great deal of fluid and refilled the system, you may have a large air bubble. That can cause an overheat issue. I would try an air bleed kit at the auto store. I would also inspect my radiator core ports to make sure that they are not plugged with rust. If after doing that and the car still overheats, I would suspect a bad water pump. The water sound you hear is most likely the heater core filling back up.

hi Guys, a lot of people/mechanics were telling me that my head gasket it gone, but i did not see a single symptom of a blown head gasket as i mentioned earlier. Luckily, i got it checked up with a friend. the problem was very clever (lol). my heater was blocked, and the water was not leaking in the front seat but it was leaking in the rear. The sound of moving water that was coming from behind the dashboard was because the heater core was sucking water and leaking it into the car. once the heater core's connection was made directly (alternate solution), there was still sound of water moving while braking, but that was just of the left over water that would leak and the noise finally went, with the overheating issue.

My 93 V6 Camry keeps displacing the fluid from the cooling system into the overflow bottle, It doesn't seem to lose any fluid. I have tried to bleed it several times and have changed both radiator caps with genuine Toyota caps, but I can't seem to get it to stop permanently displacing the coolant.

Miles667, If it's not over filling the reserve bottle to the point of over flow, then what you are experiencing may be normal. When hot the car will discharge what it doesn't need back into the reserve bottle. When it cools, it will draw the fluid from the reserve back into the radiator. If the car is not running up into the red zone, then everything should be fine. If it's running hot, I would change out the thermostat next.

Thanks for the quick response, Reelin68, But the issue is it's depositing it in the overflow when hot, however will not return it to the system once it has cooled down. That has to be done manually.

Do you think it's possible that you have just over filled the system and it's just getting rid of what it doesn't need? Or will it keep feeding the bottle until if spills out?

No, I'd fill it to the full line, start and drive it, and it would be overfull. I'd then wait until the next morning, only to find that it has not gone down from the overfull amount it was at just after driving it.

Right, but if you drive it again will it keep pushing out the fluid to the point of over filling the bottle? If it does, I would change out the thermostat next.

It only pushes out a certain amount, but stops after reaching that set amount. I ended up changing the thermostat with a genuine one approximately 3 months ago. It's a bit of a head scratcher, because I've either replaced or recently inspected the most likely candidates, Radiator, caps, Thermostat. I can't really think what else it could be. Aside from a improper coolant bleeding issue???

So it will push out that initial amount and then no more? I would say drive it. As long as it's not pushing it out on every drive and over filling the bottle to the point of over flow, I would call it good. Have you popped the radiator cap after a cool down to see if the radiator is full? Even though it has pushed some into the bottle? As long as the radiator remains full, you should be okay to drive it.

Yeah. Basically once the certain amount of fluid comes out, it stops. Once it's cooled down, the levels in the radiator are lower, and I would re-add the difference from the raised levels in the overflow, only to have the cycle repeat again. It's weird because it's only recently started doing this.

My 2000 Camry is run at normal temperature radiator is full but I see a little bit of antifreeze on the bottom shroud on the blow the radiator don't know where is coming from have not had to add antifreeze do not understand do you have a clue

Any clue on what's going on

Anybody have any clues of what's going on

JeremyCro, There is a drain valve at the bottom of the radiator that screws in. Make sure it's tight. You may have a pin hole in the rubber return tube that goes to you radiator reserve jug. Check all of your lower radiator tube hose clamps as well. Or you may have a small pin hole in the very bottom of your radiator. If you're unable to locate the leak, just keep an eye on it and if it gets worse, you will be able to locate it. You can always have the radiator pressure tested if you want to make sure there's no hole in it.

i have a question. I have a toyota mark2 2.0L 6cylinders import,it was overheating and the antifreeze would boil over,so i took out the thermostat. When trying it again this time the temperature gauge just stays normal,but the antifreeze still boils over. what could be the problem? got a new radiator last year

generaldt, are your cooling fans working? If not, that may be your issue. If fans are working, I would purchase a block tester kit at the auto store. It will run you about $30. It will test for a bad head gasket. If it passes, I would try a new water pump. Here's a short video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4FoUc6fRNs

The fan is working.i tried to flush out the radiator 4 times but the water always comes out green..its less green each time but still not clear. When you open the radiator cap, is the liquid always supposed to move??because yesterday after i drained the radiator and refilled with water,when u look at the liquid with the radiator cap off..it kinda moves a little then it stops..i observed it for a while and it was not circulating and the radiator got very hot. but the temperature gauge is not showing signs of overheating anymore. as soon as i drive it,15 mins later, the water is boiling and over spilling. yet i took out the thermostat too. Put it in boiling water and it opened,then closed when i took it out the boiling water...so i really dont know whats wrong

Generaldt, if the liquid is circulating it would appear that the water pump is working. I would buy the block tester kit and try that next.

Thank you. I doubt the local dealers here have such a kit but i shall check. I live in Namibia

Oh, well now, that's a different story. You can try a compression gauge on all of the cylinders. If one cylinder falls well below the rest, odds are you have a bad head gasket. There are also visual indicators. Such as milky oil, oil in the coolant, white steamy exhaust, gas bubbles in the radiator, coolant disappearing for no reason.

Hi got an mg zs took to a garage and he said not the water pump and changed inlet manifold gasket but the the water still bubbling and steaming and he said not the timing belt looks new what should I do and said not the head gasket

I am driving a 2006 toyota camry 2.4l 4 cylinder ex-japanese. mileage at 145 000km. Recently the upper radiator tank cracked and lost all the coolant. I got it fixed. however since it was fixed it is taking all the coolant from the overflow tank to empty. temperature is always normal level. no white smoke from the exhaust. no any other funny noise. what could be the problem of the overflow tank drying up.

Hello GuruTL67V, I have the exactly the same problem as yours except that my car is 2010. I fill the overflow tank and takes 10 miles and find that is totally dry. the mechanic told me that the blown gasket is the problem but there is not white smoke from the exhaust. I am fed up and do not know what to do!!!!

I have a 1994 toyota camry 2.2 liter engine. Changed the timing belt about 3000 miles ago. Didn't change the water pump.. Started having a coolant leak and could see that the radiator had a leak. Changed the radiator and was still leaking but not at the extent that it had before. Took all the covers off the timing belt again to check the water pump.No easy task by the way! Couldn't see any leaks. Let the engine warm up and could see a tiny drip coming from the transmission area. I knew there wasn't water circulating through the transmission. Followed the leak up and discovered that hidden in back of the distributor cap and the air filter to the turbo is where the heater hose connects. There was the cullpret after many days and a few gallons of antifreeze and just a few words that my wife didn't appreciate. Hope this helps someone,

Addressed to Reelin68: Because you obviously understand Toyota Camrys, I'd appreciate your opinion on the following predicament. Our 2007 Camry (which has worked flawlessly- -except the TSB oil consumption issue that was fixed) evidently had a radiator leak or explosion last week while being driven. Once the car was pulled over it 'seized' and was billowing smoke. Thank fully it didn't catch fire, but once a trusted mechanic looked at it, we received word that it was actually 'hydrolocked' for a time, but they were able to drain the coolant from the cylinders and get the engine to spin, just not turn over. We have asked them to open it up today and see how much damaged actually took place so we can decide whether or not it just needs new cylinder heads, etc or a whole new (used) engine. My question to you is this: should we invest $2,500 -$3,000 to make some minor fixes (avoiding the $5,000 option of replacing the engine), or is this perhaps the first of many things that will potentially go wrong with a car of this age (140,000 miles)? We have heard from some mechanics that Toyotas from the 2008/2009 era are showing frequent engine performance failure, especially the radiators. How can we find real data about whether or not this is a common problem or has been a TSB issue before? At the very least, what would you do if you owned this Camry? Evidently, it was 'very low on coolant' and needed a refill just 6 weeks ago when it was in for service. I'm seeing a recurring them from reading the above postings and comparing it to our problem this past week. (radiator leaking, etc)

Got a question my Camry is leaking water from the back side toward the fire wall , let me say pissing it out. I changed water pump , timing belt. No smoke just steam. No milky oil. Plenty of power just pissing coolant. What could it be ? Can’t afford a expensive fix. It’s a 94 Camry XLE V6 3.0L. It also has over 300,000 miles on it.