Acceleration problem..Can duplicate with motor off.

Welcome to the world of Automotive Service and Repair. If you ever become bored with retirement....consider a new career as a Car Dealer Technician. As a DIY vehicle owner.....if you have to guess as what part to replace......always replace the easiest and cheapest parts first. I suspect you have a bad Throttle PEDAL Sensor. The best place to perform all that back probing is at the Computer. There ...you can monitor all the signals going in....inputs....and....out...outputs. I try avoiding back probing because to can create bad connections if you get to rough with your technique. A SCAN TOOL which can read input and out put signals AND...Graph those signals, are in my opinion best. Before Graphing scan tools...I used to use a lab scope to analyze inputs and outputs. Very accurate. Having said all that....may I suggest you connect a Scan Tool which has Graphing capability and view the input and output of the PPS. Get back with results. GOOD Diagnosis so far.

Suggesting...using a lab scope...back probe the Pedal Position Sensor for input and output glitches. Absent a Scope....use a Graphing Scan Tool and graph the inputs and outputs of the Pedal Position Sensor....the TPS.....the throttle body PWM signals. It would be nice to have some one else step on and off the gas pedal during these tests. This will allow you to observe the TB plate and the graph and compare its position to the height of the Gas Pedal.

Another thought. Are you the original owner of this vehicle? Do you remember receiving a Recall Notice from Toyota concerning....... Unintended Acceleration?

Just noticed your answer regarding checking recall notices. Here is an answer I just separately as well as I am not sure how to respond and where at this stage. Asked by GuruPKPHX about a second ago about the 2006 Toyota Camry XLE Question type: Maintenance & Repair This an Update to my original question on this subject: Acceleration problem: Can duplicate with motor off (2006 Camry XLE 66,000 miles) To: Tony Ciccotelli: (and others) 2/3/20 Monday 3am **New to your forum so I don't know exactly how to reply to your email comments to my question. So I am leaving a comment as an answer on the forum with a photo. Another question, how can I reply to your email messages - the address says NO REPLY. By the way, I could not find your answer on the forum but I did get an email from you (2 of them). Thank you. Sorry I posted the same question twice since I thought I did not enter the first one correctly. ** You mentioned I should replace the lowest cost part to first replace if unsure of the actual culprit. You mentioned the PPS or Pedal Position sensor. as the possible problem. ** As I mentioned in my original question I did remove the pedal and measured the resistance of the 2 pots on the sensor versus Pedal Travel and plotted it on a graph (See attachment). The results agree quite dramatically (good correlation) (see photo in attachment) with a wonderful instructive video for everyone I found at YouTube Channel Toyota USA by Paul Williamson of Toyota University. titled: Safety Features of Electronic Throttle Systems (ETCS) Toyota. See this link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOaYGSU3boM I ** Strategy 1: Will go ahead and back-probe the PPS with ignition on, motor off to confirm actual operation. My only method is to back-probe the connector at this time very carefully. If I measure both sensor voltages proportionately rising with pedal travel while the Throttle Body vane does not move till 50% pedal travel is occurs then I can confirm the Throttle Body motor is the next problem assuming the motor output from the PCM computer is fine.. Do you agree with this strategy?. ** Strategy 2: If I decide to replace the Throttle Body, I priced a TB at Autozone by Durolast and it is $212 less 20% discount so would be one of aftermarket lowest cost solution or I or the OEM part for $356 online from toyotapartsdeal.com.or similar site. Probably not worth returning it if it does not solve the problem, but an option. ** I will double check if there is any recall of my VIN regarding acceleration issue but I believe that did not apply to my particular auto. Thanks for the reminder. MarioG - GuruPKPHX

Your analysis of the PPS seems to indicate that there is no issue there. You mention the Throttle Valve at times will not begin to move until a 50% throttle valve opening is commanded by the Computer? I hope this is correct? Do you have a Oscilloscope?....or.....Does your scan tool graph inputs and outputs on this vehicle? It would be interesting to graph the signal from the TPS back to the Computer while you step on and off the throttle from idle to wide open......then continue to graph while returning to idle. Should be a nice smooth up the hill...then a nice smooth back down the hill. If you had a dual trace scope....you could monitor the PWM signal the computer is commanding to the Throttle Motor. This would check TPS function and the computers response ....Command......to the Throttle Motor. Final question. Have you road tested this vehicle? If yes....did the Check Engine Light come on at any time? where there ever any stored codes in the Computer?

Pkp....tell us the good news first?

Status 2/20/20: ********** Problem solved on 2/18/20 *********** 2006 Camry XLE 65000 miles ********** Tony, ********** * A. Unfortunately there are two threads on this issue which is my fault in the original submission. i have been posting my status answers on another thread with the same title that first starts in the original submission with the date 1/31/20. I will keep doing that. You have been posting your moderator comments on this duplicate thread, I just discovered. I appreciate the comments.. ********** * B. I fixed my Acceleration problem on 2/17/20 and posted my troubleshooting process in detail on 2/18 in the 1/31/20 thread. I also added a collage photo on 2/19/20. I will add the same collage photo to this post to be helpful to anyone reading this thread. ********** * C. The final no cost fix was to rotate the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) 3/32 inch with the two screws on the slotted holes (not circular) of Toyota Pedal Sensor 78030-33022 on the Accelerator Pedal assembly 78010-33010. This part uses resistance type technology for the potentiometers. Later model years used Hall Effect Sensor technology. ^^^^^^^^^^ * D. Troubleshooting history with final resolution:*****(1) 1/30 Described initially failure modes (50% throttle and 10% play), *****(2A) Checked fluids, installed new battery, Cleaned Throttle body and MAF with CRC cleaners, *****(2B) Lots of research on the internet on the Throttle Control System (Throttle Sensor and Pedal Sensor with redundant signal Fail/Safe/Limp features, Throttle Motor - H- Bridge circuit output, ECU / PCM computer), *****(3) ODB2 Scanner testing (No DTC or check engine light ever observed ) with INNOVA 3160b with graphical and live data features to read the TPS% response *****(4) Back-probed with a DMM signal resistance and voltage levels of Throttle (Hall Effect type) and Pedal (Resistor type) sensor signals as well as Throttle Motor leads voltage to ground and differentially across the motor pins (All parts measured good with system not in a failure mode, Pedal voltages were correct at all positions while the Throttle motor signals and Throttle Sensor only responded at 50% throttle), *****(5) Performed 2 driving tests days apart which each were every important in discovering important points of the acceleration failure (Drive Test #1- Discovered Left Foot Brake solution with 10% pedal solved the failure problem (I then back- probed the pedal), Drive Test #2 - Discovered a very small or minuscule depression of the pedal solved the failure problem, using the left foot to brake the car. *****(6) On 2/17 ********** ********** * E. Regarding your questions to me. **** (1) Yes, I did use the TPS% live data from the ODB2 scanner to observe the smooth (no dropouts or erratic changes) rise and fall of the Throttle sensor signal in response to Pedal travel. With the Ignition on, Motor off, I was able to duplicate both failure modes of the system which had not trouble DTC ODB2 trouble codes or check engine light (At 50% pedal had same reading as at 0% pedal). ****(2) There were no stored codes (standard or enhanced). I was able to erase any created DTC codes easily with the scanner. **** (3) There were no recall notices for the car (4) . **** I did not feel I needed to pursue immediately getting a 2 channel oscilloscope because of the type of failure I was experiencing and used my Scanner and DMM for my initial steps. ********** Mario - GuruPKPHX

WOW....very impressive.....excellent work. You might consider getting back into the field. One other item comes to mind. Toyota....because of the Unintended Acceleration fiascos Recall.....started reprograming Computer to fail safe mode when it sees the gas pedal AND THE BRAKE pedal on at the same time....just in case the AP gets stuck in the down position. They tried using the installation of a slug in the AP assembly to prevent WOT sticking....then followed that with reprograming the Engine ECU. WOW what an adventure that recall was.

2/21/20 Tony, ********** Did you notice how I made my last multi-paragraph answer easier to read for everyone by adding 10 Asterisk marker between paragraphs and 5 asterisk markers between subsections. The reader can easily skip to the next paragraph to get the main points. Glad I figured that out since I was not happy with losing the formatting between the paragraphs in your forum. ********** I would like to make a suggestion for your forum that you add the actual posting date as well to each posting as fixed and useful information in referring someone to a particular post, since you do not have posting ID numbers. ******************* Regarding the car: Still running great with the acceleration fix. Only use the car about 1000 per year since we have a primary car (2013 Lexus ES350) which is around 7000 miles / year. Worth about $4000 with 65000 miles and needs a paint job. Costs $1150 / year with low mileage option in insurance. Maybe its the right time to sell it and use Ride Sharing when I need it. ********** Not planning to come out of retirement. ********** Mario ** GuruPKPHX

Posting dates....a Big YES for me. Not coming out of retirement? Good for you. Hope you have enough stuff around that needs fixing. I have been retired since 2011. Still fixing things. I would be totally bored otherwise. Good luck and lets here from you once in a while.

Get a used one at scrapyard,,,cost under 50$,,,,,,,,,plug it, it will work,,,,,,