truck won't stay running

After it kills, will it restart immediately? Or does it have to crank over a few times to start?

What I'm asking is does it start right up the first time, then not catch right away after it kills?

ok it will start the first when cold run about a minute or less and smothers out like it ran out of fuel,try to restart it and u can hear the pump motor just for a split second and wont start keep cranking no start. I can wait about ten minutes and it will start fine and then kills out almost a minute. We took the bed off and checked pumps ran a hot wire to them from battery and took fuel pump relay out and startted right up and stayed running so wired em up to run both tanks off of a 3 way toggle switch for front and rear tanks works perfect runs really well.I'm thinking i have an electrical problem now i still gotta fix it right but gets me where i need to go for now

Sounds like you have a faulty relay somewhere. It appears may be heating up after a minute or so, then cutting out. When you bypass the curcuit by running it directly from the battery you're bypassing the problem oviously. Get a clinton or haynes book for the year which has a wiring relay/schematic section. The problem may be right there in the fuse box. Most, if not all of the fuel system circutry begins and ends there.

Thank you OJ havent tried anything on that yet working 6 days a week havent much time,but i was thinking could it be my EEC?

My 1979 F-100 300 cu. in. 6 cyl. would be very hard to start at times and would often die while driving down the road (and would start back up while still rolling) I replaced the fuel pump that is on the side of the engine-no help (but solved an oil leak as it was loose). I took the wiring harness off and cleaned it up and checked for continuity---the wires were okay. I checked the Ignition Control Module (ICM) as recommended in my Ford Electrical and Vacuum Diagram Manual using a jumper as it said to do---it checked out okay. I replaced the ICM ($24 for an improved unit) and now it starts up every time and does not die.

my truck run then it die what that problem

Sounds like you're fuel filter is not let enough fuel to get past to keep the vehicle running and it is running out of fuel than it set for awhile fuel fill the lines and you can start it again until the line empties again.

I have a 2006 Ford f150 I was driving after I pumped gas a convenience store heading on road while driving truck stalled and showed oil pressure oil checked it n was good took it to shop n show code for gas pump they installed new n didn't turnon mechanic thinks it might have a short cause he put it on computer n everything looks good what do ya think

I have a 2006 Ford f150 I was driving after I pumped gas a convenience store heading on road while driving truck stalled and showed oil pressure oil checked it n was good took it to shop n show code for gas pump they installed new n didn't turnon mechanic thinks it might have a short cause he put it on computer n everything looks good what do ya think

I found that my problem was a yellow wire from my sylanoid on fire wall towards the head lights was not getting good connection , some wire nuts fixed it. Could be your problem, wouldn't hurt to check yours hope this helps also emergency fuel pump cut off reset could help

I got a f-150 that's getting fuel and fire. It will crank early in the morning then cut off ten min later . Then it hard to started again. Please help me anyone

1999 dodge ram 2500 diesel starts then runs then cuts out dies new filter new batteries cleaned maps and I.A.T. will remove bed and check ground and lift pump I think it's pump dealers want too much money will do it myself

I have a 1988 e350, 351 engine size. The truck runs rough high low then after awhile stalls while idling. If I drive alongs I don't come to stop it won't stall. We tuned up the truck, then changed map sensor, fuel filter, all the vacuum hoses, the air fuel sensor, but have changed the wire harness believe it's the throttle position sensor. The truck ran fine for awhile then started to act up. Need some ideas

J1988 did you figure out the problem with your truck ? Mine is doing the same thing

Try your timing. After changing out parts our timing was off. We also had to change the distributor. Seems to be ok now but we will let you know it's only day 4 after being fixed.

Shoot it had starting problem with my 94 f 150 5.8 spent a pile of money ready to throw in the towel. Shoot it

I have a 1990 Ford F-150 pull my hair out trying to find out why rough idle runs rich stalls vatic idle wouldn't stay running change the throttle position sensor no effect change map sensor no effect check IAC motor cleaned still no effect finally unplugged coolant temp sensor and map sensor the new one truck crank cold no flooding run smooth low idle let it warm up run decent end of story bad coolant temp sensor

I have a 2006 ford expedition I change the starter I change the fuel pump n the fuel filter to where it will started but as soon as I hit the gas it cut off can somebody okease tell me Wats wrong

i have a 1988 ford f150 5.8 i haveing a problem. i can get in the truck start it runs great i can step on the gas hard all the way to the store.when i get back in the truck and try to do the same thing.the truck want to die out at 35. i let off the gas and the truck dies down and coe right back up but i cant ove por press on the gas .or it will die

My 1985 F-150 5.8L runs good when i first crank it and start driving and get it good and warm up. And when I get to a stop light it dies and will not crank back. And I'm getting towed home. It cools down it starts right up. What is going on here?

Gurudjjk8, your problem sounds like a crank sensor issue to me. Test the resistance cold and then after it dies and compare readings with the specs I'm sure they're easy to find

my 1981 f350 engine start but when turn loose it die

I try starting serval but as soon turn loose of key it dies

GuruZXSF5 that sounds like it could be the ignition switch that is at fault. Its the electrical component right behind the key/tumbler mechanism, when you turn the key there's a little finger on the end of it that turns the switch. One way to test my theory is to get a remote starter switch from the parts store, hook it up to the starter so it will engage the starter, turn the key to accessory (one click before start) and hit the button to start the truck. If it doesn't start the ignition switch is your problem, if it starts and dies like it's doing then you have a different problem, probably still ignition related

I have a 2004 Ford F150 V8 and it will start at a low idle and after about 30 seconds to 1 minute shut off and when I go to start it again it will spend over about 25 times before it starts but only at a idle you can put your feet on the gas after it's sitting there idling and nothing happens it continues to idle for 30 seconds to 1 minute can't figure out what the problem is help please

Mine does the same thing but starts right back up after it another out what's wrong with mine

Almost forgot, sorry. With the Deathanol fuel these days, rust and crud form in your Tanks and Lines, and make their way to your Fuel Filter. That thing NOBODY ever thinks about, but they are all important now. I worked on a 2003 E350 Van for the last 3 weeks, I warned you that I am OLD, and I have never seen a filter, in my long life, that was packed full of brown, rusty crap.

I have a 2008 Ford F150 4.2 when you start it it idles rough and Shakes when you're driving it down the street when you start off it idles really rough don't want to go but when you get to a certain speed in Idols itself out

I have a 1995 Ford that went died going down the it's getting good fuel to it but it will try to start but want stay running what could be the problem

I had the same problem listen seriously it had me spending money like crazy anyway change your mass air flow sensor it should work fixed mine after trouble shooting . Well signing off. Name: POSSE!. Lake City FL.

I have 95 f150 that will start and idle for 30seconds and die like its outta gas.If I hit the pedal it dies faster then when restarting it will pop n crack like the timing is off then eventually start and idle then die again.It doesn't have the Maf sensor only the map sensor.Almost everything is new.Any body have any ideas??

I am having the same problem

Ok guys a lot of time and miles take a toll on parts. the thing you don't consider is when you start a engine. The very first thing you must do is turn the drugging (key) did I say key. ? yup. Just like your power Windows the contacts inside. Get coroded and wear out the very first thing you need to check is the ignition switch down under the steering column only. a 7 dollar part but carries a head of a load down the road

Hi my name is Andrew I have a 1987 Ford F 150 2 wheel drive 50302 when you're driving it the check engine light will come on come off come back on stay on then the truck will stall out I put a brand new distributor coil I can't figure out why this thing keeps stalling out?? 609-618-4421 that's my cell phone number if somebody could call me that would be great thank you

I have a 200 Ford f150 xlt, and the fuel thottle position shows bad the truck turns over but will not start is the sensor the reason it want start.i need help please.

It ended up being the Map Sensor for me. I replaced the egr, egr sensor and egr valve control solenoid. vacuum hoses. idle control sensor. there was a hole in my egr pipe . i replaced all and the truck would still turn off when i tried to idle it hot. the truck would idle once i unplugged the power to the egr valve control solenoid. The Map sensor fixed the issue. Thanks @J1988, 1995 f250 5.8l

Got one that runs fine for 100 miles or so. Then once you turn it off, it won't start. Put more gas in it and it will start right up and run fine until you turn it off. If it's below about a half a tank, it won't start.. Any ideas?

Hey Gary- I literally did everything you described for my 1992 F-150 4.9L as well, dual-tank. It continued to kill MAP Sensors and run rough/stall without my foot keeping in RPMs as I switched and held the brakes (automatic E40D). I literally had the hole in the egr pipe, replaced the egrs, vaccuum hoses, AIC/ICs, TAB/TAD as well and TPS. HOWEVER, you may find in 4-6 months or sooner you'll have another MAP sensor fried and back to running rough. 2-3 MAP sensors later, your TPS and your MAP will become faulty and you'll also receive a bad ground fault to MAP and a bad ground fault to your fuel pump(s). I've repaired every vacuum line and had a master mechanic go over it, so I think it's not a vacuum overload that's grounding out these sensors (1 possibility). I have an amp plugged into my speaker system that grounded out and is half-working, but it has its own ground direct to the battery so although it could be grounding out sensors, I doubt it. So that leaves a ground out that somehow is tied to the MAP and *maybe* fuel pumps. Reading up above, a gent suggested power lock windows ground out fault (I don't have those) and ignition switch ground out in the steering wheel column. I'm thinking I need to investigate my steering wheel column's wiring diagram and see if it shares a ground with the fuel pumps and MAP sensor (probably does since it's part of the ignition start-up). I also tested the inertia safety switch relay that could short out fuel pumps, that wasn't it -- those things are hardy until you get into a high g-force crash. I say all this because I've been messing with this for 2.5+ years and I think I've got it narrowed down, but I think based on your line-up of parts you changed-out that you might start to have MAP and TPS Sensors go out and it will look like a semi-functioning bad- ground fuel pump also at times. However, the pumps will work GREAT when it's cold out and below freezing also (another interesting symptom of this entire scenario). It's probably worth it to check your ignition switch and cylinder so you don't go through 4 MAPs and 2 TPSs in 2 years like I did.

I replaced ignition switch in my 1988f150 it would start and instantly dies so i replaced it and it started drove down road 2miles died and now it's doing the same thing start and die after putting new ignition switch in can someone please help me out

It won't start stalling until after it's been drove for 30-45 min or so. It usually starts right back up but will stall back out when I put it in gear. So I have to hold my foot on gas to get it going.. thanks

So have any of u found out ur problem? I have a 1990 f150 5.0L and will start right up when cold but stalls out after a minute or two ,once it reaches normal operating temperature . it started doin this while parked in middle of winter one day when i went out to start up to charge battery. (Its like its not getting gas or like something is getting hot and then cutting out the engine) Sooo did any of u find out what the problem was? I had holes in egr pipe so i replaced egr pipe, checked egr valve, and new starter .i also replaced fuel pump and eec relays as well as distributor including cap ,rotor , p.i.p sensor AND ignition control module mounted to distributor. It runs quieter wth new distributor because it SCREAMED before changing that. I also unplugged engine coolant temp sensor to check it and it didnt make any difference and my CEL light came on when i unplugged ECT sensor. The ONLY key on engine off code im getting is code 84. Which is Egr vaccuum selonoid CIRCUIT FAILURE . i have no continuous memory codes that come up and i am unable to get (Koer) engine running codes.i havent changed the map sensor tho. Btw i only have the single rear fuel tank. SO have any of u with the 8th generation bricknose figured out what ur problems were? I do have an amp hooked up. And also i seem to have alot of wires going into my door even tho its manual windows and manual door locks.should only be 4 speaker wites going in door. Whole truck is manual EVEEYTHING. Manual tranny and manual 4X4 ,no a/c . thanks for any help or input.

Also if you don't know yet try checking your spark plugs and distributor connections

Im having issues w/1981 Ford RV. Had to bypass fuel pump(no idea why,but it worked) to get it fired/idling. Everything seemed fine..until driving it above 30,it dies....could almost start right up as it rolls(ignition is hollowed out, almost as if stolen) i have to use screwdriver to start. (DOESNT LOOK BAD AT ALL!,NOT) When it starts it eventually dies again (i also have air filter off..not sure if that adds to issue. It def seems an air/carb issue...any ideas? thanks

I have a Ford F-150 5. 0 will start but won't stay running anybody here

Ok question. My 1993 f150 5 speed has a new altanator and it runs but when u unhook the jumpers it run but then dies what could be the problem why is my motor not staying charged?

GuruQK3PP8, get a new alternator. Check your grounds. Test your battery. You didn't give us much to work with, so do the basics first. Check your alternator ground. Check your solenoids/starter solenoid. Hell if all else fails an ICM may need to be replaced too. Then a starter switch. If you can check voltages, do that. You probably have a distributor-mounted ICM by the way so take a look at the wires on your distributor as well and look for chafing/ground outs bare wire touching bare wire or metal frame. All that can cause phantom drains that drop your voltage beyond the minimal operating required, particularly if your battery is not weak. Think about it, you've added EXTRA voltage to your battery with a jump start. The alternator is doing its job if it's not willing to overcharge (ramp up) your voltages. So you likely have a voltage drop down the line form the ICM to distributor or something that cannot be compensated for once the additional voltage from the jumpers is removed. That's all my theory/experience anyway, but the ICM, starter switch, starter switch relay, and distributor are hot spots once you check your starter solenoid, etc (but you kinda bypass the starter solenoid, so again thinking it's past the battery if the battery is strong). Oh and if you can run it for a bit and get a check engine light while jumped, do that and get your codes if there are some! You'll probably get some indication of an ICM or low voltage or voltage ground out. ICM feeds to the ECM and hands off to the ECM (or maybe it's ECM feeds ICM and hands off to ICM) upon engine start. Believe ECM hands off to ICM. So if the ICM is bad, it won't be able to keep your engine going (regulate voltage) once you remove the juice if the battery is good. Yeah, that. I had that problem. Was amazing difference once new ICM was installed, but also the distributor cap wires were chaffed and disconnected/bad connections causing the symptoms. This all in turn was causing the MAP Sensor to blow every 100-300 miles. NAPA was on the "this is the last warrantied MAP Sensor you can have" stance when we finally figured it out (and found a bad engine ground and battery ground, basically both engine block and battery negative were grounded to same frame point, big no no -- ground to two separate frame points!)

Ok guys I have an 1992 f150 xlt it will start up run fine but after an minute or so will die like someone turns the key but it will fire Wright back up and only dose it at an idle any answers text 8167038323

FIRST: Once you know you actually have a few gallons of gas in the vehicle, make sure you have a good fuel pump. If you have a Shrader valve (like the valve stem on your car except no rubber) on the fuel rail you can check it for pressure or at least see if fuel bubbles out. SECOND: Replace the fuel filter unless you just replaced it, but also make sure there are no air leaks in the filter you may have just replaced. THIRD: Rough idle? Replace the IAC, Idle Air Control Valve, they are cheap enough that wasting time cleaning your old one costs more than buying a Standard Brand (lower cost, but not the super cheap China versions... which are worth a shot, but not the savings). FOURTH: Battery MUST be fully charged, completely grounded too, so check grounds including the wires under the battery tray which are pinched by the battery sometimes. FIFTH: Some models of F150's have an issue with the Fuel Pump Relay and Fuse under the hood where it melts and shorts out. Sometimes, the under hood fuse block/relay tray actually melts underneath and needs replacing, so pull the relay and fuse and look at the plugs to see if they appear melted or distorted. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f150forum.com-vbulletin/2000x1515/20171125_210245_52c8882a3f169982368617f573dc661a50e986df.jpg Also... "Used" non-burned trays work as well as new ones if you need to go that route. There are relays/fuses made that are elevated so they stay cooler and there is no rhyme or reason why this happens except maybe excessive heat under the hood. Once you know these are good and that your engine has compression and spark as well, then move on to other 'might be's' such as: Ignition switch. ECM. Fuel Pump Driver Module!!! https://www.f150forum.com/attachments/f4/503874d1501331128-fuel-pump-driver-module-check-yours-dc804121.jpg Most likely, the problem will be one of the issues listed. The modular engine is a race engine and Ford vehicles are well made, but when something is bought used, we never know what the truck or car has been through or who's hacked it up on the side of the road or added strange extras and compromised the computers and alternator, etc....

I know this is an old thread but I wanted to share. I was having the exact same problem as Pelfrey44. The truck ran fine a few weeks ago when last driven, but all of a sudden the truck started and ran fine for a minute or so, then sputtered and died. Sometimes it would start immediately, sometimes it had to sit for a few minutes to start. Sometimes I could keep it running by messing with the throttle, sometimes not. Unplugged the MAP sensor and it stayed running. New sensor on and it runs fine.

GuruRQKMC- I've been dealing with the entire MAP Sensor every 300-500 miles warranty issue for 2 years now. 7 MAP Sensors later, I will tell you to check your Transmission Connection Plug to the Wiring Harness (on top of transmission). My pin that went to the MAP Sensor was completely corroded and broken off. You can get a new vehicle side plug at RockAuto for about $14. As for the tranmsission side, the tranny pan has to come down and you'll have to go to a transmission shop or a junk yard to see if you can find that part to replace if it's corroded badly. ALSO, check your MLPS Neutral Safety Switch. IT can be adjusted, but pre-1995 there is a corrosion issue. Buy a 1995 version for your truck and replace. It also can cause these electrical gremlins. Once you're done with the transmission side, be sure to follow any codes left regarding IAC, EGR Valve/Solenoids, TPS, MAP, fuel selector switches, etc. These will all short over over time if you have a short starting there at the transmission. I know because I paid for all of this and did a lot of the work myself as we chased codes. Please please please follow your codes too. Any transmission codes saying a ground out is occurring or a ground at the map will indicate you should be looking at the tranny first, then clear codes and go again. I know those are "high- end" codes, but at this point I think it's worth looking at your tranny pins. Any repairs for electrical be sure to use some dialectic grease to assure you get the best lifespan out of the components too. After ALL that, the only other thing is check your start solenoid for corrosion, check your amps. If you hear humming in your speakers, your voltage regulator that moderates ac/dc conversion is probably eff'd in the Alternator and you'll want to consider changing that out too to eliminate anymore electrical gremlins. Finally, I will say that the Ignition Control Modules are known to go and an easy replacement either on the fender wall or directly on the distributor. Scrutinize the wiring at the distributor (mine was corroded a year ago and needed repairs). Check the ignition starter switch and consider changing it out if you're at the very end AND scrutinize all the wiring there. This should get you through the process that I went through with the best foot forward. I started small and ended with the transmisison and it cost a lot of time, money, and over two years. Just check grounds and wires and pins at the transmission to start and consider upgrading the MLPS or replacing or adjusting at the very least (youtube has videos, very easy to do the MLPS adjustment or swap).

I have a 2009 f150 that runs great bit it will die once and a while when it comes to a stop. It will also act up when we put gas in I have put new Fdm on it replaced fuse can and the only code ot gives is o2 sensor can anyone help please

Mrd782000 i have the same exact model and same problem literally just started. Same code to 02 season but no other codes idk what to do

I have a 89 f150, 4.9 300 efi. It’s starts ok but once I get about 2 miles down the road the truck will jerk forward a few times then I’ll lose my throttle with the engine still running, I have to turn it off and start it up again and again while slamming the throttle and dumping the clutch till I get it back home, can anyone please help I’m lost with this truck.

i just had same problem . thought it wasnt getting gas. i changed fuel fiter drained gas and still starts then dies.like it was choked out. it was a loose air inlet that has a sensor in it. i guess .check your air intake if its loose it will keep dying . so easy fix after all that. I just pushed it back on straight.

To Guy 330: I am and have been dealing with the exact issues with my 2000 f150 xlt 5.4. I thought it was a vacuum leak but cannot find one anywhere. I am going through sensors like crazy. One fails, I replace it just for another to fail. I am going to check out the ignition control module, I did not think of that. I recently had to replace the intake manifold. After that now I am having an issue where the truck idles rough. The rpms are surging at idle and occasionally it will stall. Along with that, my temp gauge with peek, but the truck is not over heating. So, I change the Coolant temp switch. The temp gauge dosnt peek anymore but it will go up close to where it peeks and my truck seems like it wont shift properly. Still it seems as though the truck is not overheating. I'll pull over shut it off, start it back up and everythings normal again for a few miles. I just put a new erg valve and sensor on it, coolant temp sensor, new fuel filter, fuel pump. I was reading what you were telling another guy about the tranny plug and the wire that goes to the map sensor being corroded. The weird thing is I am not getting any codes for that. I am getting the Po171 and p0174 which indicate a vacuum or faulty map sensor. yet cant find any leaks and the map sensor is new. Anything ironic thing happening as well is, the heater will be blowing hot and all the sudden goes ice cold, stays like that for a few mins and goes back to hot. But just changed the thermostat when I put the new intake manifold in. Anyone have any suggestions? I am going to try the ignition control module. I appreciate everybody's input and advice. Thank yo.