1992 f150 4x4 5.0 (running bad after engine warms up)

This is a 5.0 electronic fuel injection motor with true duals.The truck also has a slightly high idle but when reving the motor in park it doesn't miss at all only misses while driving. could this be timing related? I have changed the fuel filter,plug wires,cleaned the cap and rotor and took ignition module to a o'reily's store where i had it tested and the ignition module passed. Any help would be greatfully appreciated. Thanks

Fuel sending unit....Had the same problem with my 1994 f150 5.0 dual tanks. My front tank pumped fuel just fine, idled fine, drove fine for first 10 mins. But when engine warmed up the truck would just bog down when I hit the gas. Found out that when fuel sending units go bad, the circuit will have a resistance issue. The fuel temp goes up after driving for a little bit which starts the resistance issues in the circuit. The fuel pump and the fuel sending unit are two separate things, but are attached to each other. When the fuel pump is bad the engine won't start. When the fuel sending unit is bad the engines Boggs down after it warms up. I had a code 542, bad ground. At first I thought it was a broken or chafed wire, but it was the sending unit. Oh yea my fuel gauge was stuck on FULL all the time before the fuel sending unit replacement, now it reads normal. I learned everything on YouTube, from guys like Eric the car guy, Scanner Danner, and a bunch of others. I learned how to pull the codes on an odb1 system, test the fuel sending unit Before dropping the tank, how to drop the tank The Easy way, clean the tank (very important, don't drop in a new fuel unit in a dirty gas tank useless your into throwing money away!) use Apple cider vinegar, it works the best and it's cheap, no joke. I hope this info. Helps.... I sent a couple of days researching on YouTube, once a lot of people where saying the same things, I then knew they were telling the truth. Just YouTube it! Now I'm learning how to weld my own Duals and convert the rear end to Posi.

Check for codes then get back to us.

I have a 92 ford f250 4×4runs great cold but when it gets hot it will die we have put a new map sincere and computer and egr vaul and idle air control so what is making it die when it gets hot

Vapor lock?heat affecting bad fuel filter?there is a thing on the distributer or the ignition module that's rectangular and requires electric grease on it or temp grease.i had one go out on me once.its too near heat if it's the one on the distributor on the top of the engine.mine died when driving after a while.i also know a chrome part that sits on a triangular base I forget the name -fuel proportioning valve?it goes bad on I think 89-90's.i had to replace one.way in the back by firewall .follow fuel injector tubes back to firewall.ford mechanic told me he had seen a lot of the two things I just mentioned.worth ruling out.you can test the ignition part by taking it in and comparing it with a new one by using an ohmmeter.the ohms reading should read the same.when an electrical part goes out ohm- resistance reading changes.test it with new one at auto parts store.if you learn to use the ohmmeter- multimeter you can save yourself some money on diagnostic garage costs.good luck.check out you tube on these 2 things and also auto electrical part testing with hand held ohmmeter.they sell them also at auto parts stores and at Sears and Menards.i paid only 60 bucks for mine.vood investment.you can test sensors too.

aarona74 did you ever figure out the problem I’m having the same issue and what’s crazy is my fuel guge don’t work it’s on full like PuertoRicanredneck says. I did. It think that would have anything to do with how the truck would run. Mine runs fine until about 15 minutes into driving then it’s hesitating bad.

i have a 92 f150 302 5.0v8 im having same problem runs great when cold but after it warms up it starts jerking and engine check light comes on what is the problem?

Map senser

Same problem but on a 93' E150 5.0. Parts I've replaced so far: Canister Purge Valve, Lower Intake Manifold (For other reasons), MAF/MAP Sensor (Whichever one is mounted on the blower motor housing and NOT the single port TB), Distributor Cap and Rotor, Spark Plugs & Wires, Thermostat & Housing, TPS. First start on cold has expected results...until 3rd gear and things start getting heated. Everything begins to lose power and sputter unless I put mu foot in it. Going to try a couple other things today. Replacing the fuel filter, egr valve, and fuel pump/sending unit.

Ran it for codes, got a 122:TPS below min voltage , 123:TPS above min voltage, 126:MAP/BARO sensor +/- normal, and 327: evp/ept circuit below voltage. It idles fine now @ operating temps. Still has the 3rd gear major power loss though. Nervous to try and drive it any amount of miles so I won't. The TPS and MAP/MAF are brand new. Have to wait till tomorrow for EGR.