My Ford F-150 will crank, but wont turn over

Fuel pumps can be defective out of the box, did you check it prior to installing the pump? Try using a fuel pressure gauge at the test port on the rail and see if it is within specs.

okay thanks. Its just weird because the pump was brand new. I was looking under the truck last night, and noticed that i didn't even have a fuel filter hooked up. It was just the lines and an empty space. I moved the lines around and gas came out of the line.

If your line is separated, be careful. A fuel pump can produce as much as 40 psi. If you turn the key to on, it will give you a fire hose effect. Also, once you install a filter and hook the two lines together , the system will be under pressure once the key is turned to on. Check the net for a video on how to relieve the pressure if you have to disconnect any lines in the future.

Having same problem, after multiple test, found out no pressure from (new) fuel pump, 0, before that need to make sure you have voltage to fuel pump. Battery voltage 12v and check inertia sw, also voltage on relays and make sure pins on relays are not pivoted or corrode for a bad contact. I have a 2003 f150 4.6L

So should i replace the fuel pump? My battery is bad as well. I may need to purchase a new battery. As far as the inertia switch, are all of the buttons red? I think my button is white. Also, i noticed that i didn't have a fuel filter after trying to crank the truck. Ford said that the fuel pump relay switch was okay. what about my pressure switch?

If the fuel lines were parted (filter removed) and left that way for a long time, remember; the lines are steel and if condensation develops inside, there is a possibility of rust. Check your fuel lines carefully and flush. Remove the fuel pump and also test once off the truck to ensure it is working.

Happy new year to you all! Oj, will sea foam help clean out my fuel lines?

If the fuel lines were parted and there is a possibility of rust in the line I would replace all the lines. If you break rust loose and everything is not completely flushed out, you run the possibility of clogging up fuel injectors down the road. Drop the tank and remove the pump. You can bench test it to determine if it is still good. At the same time you can flush and clean the inside of the tank of any debris which may have collected over time. The concern here is condensation forming in the tank, especially with the use of ethanol blended fuel.

Are the fitting for the missing fuel filter still on the line or are they missing? Was the line cut to remove the filter? Check the entire line for blocking kinks from the tank to the engine. Is the original line stainless steel? What condition does the outside of the line look like corrosion wise? If you intend to reuse the old line, run a little gas through it to see what comes out the other end. Use compressed air to blow out any sediment which may be present.

Yes the fitting are still there. No the line wasn't cut. How do I check the line for blockage. I sprayed starting fluid into the throttle and it started, but killed after about 2 seconds. The lines doesn't look that corroded. Gas actually came out of the fuel line when I discovered that the fuel filter was missing. I'm getting ready to remove the bed of the truck so that I can check the fuel pump. Will an Eletric impact wrench with 240 lbs of torque do the job? Just checked the bolts for rust. They seem okay.

If the engine starts with starting fluid they you are probably good to go at that end. Since you do not know how long the vehicle sat, or what, if anything, was put in the tank, I suggest. Remove the tank from the vehicle. It's probably easier to remove the tank than the entire bed. Once down, disconnect the fuel line leading to the filter disconnect and use a small compressor to blow through the line. Do the same on the return line to the tank and also from the connection on the rail back to the filter connection. You can use some mineral spirits and a garden sprayer to pump through the line to see if any crud comes out. If you are sure the line(s) are clean and usable, pump some denatured alcohol through the line(s) to make sure all the spirits are removed. The alcohol will dry quickly through evaporation and no residue from the spirits should be present. You can clean the inside of the tank the same way with mineral spirits. If you get a lot of rust coming out you may consider replacing the tank. Use a light to check the inside. Rinse with alcohol.

If you are going to remove the bed, I suggest you spray the underside of the bolt(s) where it connects to the frame with break free, or some other anti seize fluid first and let it set. If you can adjust the pressure on the impact wrench do so and work your way to a higher setting if necessary. You do not want to spin the bolt within the threaded connector and strip it. Be careful and check all your electrical wires making sure nothing is secured to the underside of the bed. I'd disconnect the sockets from the tail light housing and secure them via tape to a location where they cannot be damaged when the bed is moved. Also, Disconnect both battery terminals from the battery. Electronic devices, including the PCM do not react well if you accidentally reverse the polarity to it via a short. I'd go a step further and unplug the connections to the PCM until the bed has been replaced and all connections checked.