Chevy S10 overheating

Do a pressure test with a cap stant pressure tester, find the leaker- the fact that you're losing heat tells me there isn't any coolant in there. Tighten the breeze clamp, replace the severed hose, make it stop losing coolant. then we can talk.

The coolent level hasn't changed since I flushed the system and replaced the radiator last October.....That is the first thing I checked. I will do the pressure test though just to be certain and get back to you on that.

if your coolant has been bad...real bad, the waterpump can go bad in a most exrtrordinary way, the shaft will feel normal (no play there) but the fins disintegrate, leaving you without flow, and although everything seems normal is failing to move the coolant along at a healthy pace. not suggesting this happened, but if your coolant (the one you took out) seemed to be full of disintegrated water pump, rather than just green, would start to suspect a bad water pump...in this manner. No leaks, just annoyance.

Sounds like your water pump might be bad. Check to see that it is working

Beat me to it bob. Sounds like you might be on the right track.

dandyoun, could not believe my eyes when I first saw this condition in '93....maybe once or twice before, but theyre pretty good at makin' non-self destructing pumps anymore.

what must have happened is the 50/50 mix was mixed with Clearlake water for half, which was full of evil spirits (acid) and gobbled the cast iron up. Bought a 73 celica that had a buggered coolant jacket. Nothing we could do there, sadly it was on a 350 mile trip to LA~

I will check out the water pump....I really don't believe there is a leak or that the radiator and thermostat (replaced new last October) is the issue.....And...I have taken a 1500 mile trip in this truck from Illinois to PA since October...it is just now having the issue.

ALWAYS buy pre-mix! do you really know the Ph of the water you're mixing with?....I'm going to have to say NO.

I never mix my antifreeze...I always buy the premix stuff...

heather, is there flow when you remove the cap and peer in (cold, of course) coolant flow?

Yes there is flow

My 85 z28 did about the same it had sit for several years and when I started bringing it back to life the fins on the pump were bad. No tell tell sign of water out weep whole on pump. Just overheating with little to no water flow from pump.

we could dismiss the lack of heat for your mechanic failing to "belch" the system of air [can be a real nasty problem], so what happens is the coolant loop has got air in it. You should have someone who has no regard for gettin' burned to unscrew the exit clamp with the t-stat hot and open to get rid of the air, if you're lucky they give you a shroeder valve so you don't have to resort to risking physical injury.

water pump job is going to set you back probably 150 plus 60 for the pump and will take all morning.

You could insist they belch the air out, tooo-

OK, you've got flow. You should have heat...but not overheat!

...wait for your engine to come upto operating temperature, turn the flow for the HEAT ON FULL, then run up the revs to 3000-4000 and hold it there for a spell. NOW you should have heat thru the heat exchanger, bubbles be gone!

really hate to condemn your waterpump, if you aren't getting coolant flow thru the heat exchanger, it could be fouled up from corrosion and no coolant play could get it right, you may have to replace your heat exchanger if this is the case. Kind of a pain in the ass job to find out, but I think there are two hoses (ole fashioned) on your heat exchanger...when cold hook up your garden hose to one end and see if she's plugged.

still, the truck's overheating, regardless of passenger comfort. This isn't rocket science, t-stat not opening, defective water pump....there ain't nothin' else!

okay, choked off radiator too-

not to dispute the advice but before jumping hoops try a simple trick.with cool engine full coolent rad. cap as normal open hood squeez hose for softness,should be,then start and try if rapid pump up to pressure you got a bad hesd or gaskit sorry to say though not to bad to do on that one

oh noooo~ Say it ain't so. She pressurized it, would have noticed a sudden loss in pressure no?

wouldn't there be oil in the antifreeze if the head gasget was bad? I had a neon a long time ago that blew a gasket and that is what happened.....

7jim is just alarmist, but you could check how supple the hoses are. somehow someway flow is impeded....the radiator looks good?

The radiator is brand new last October....as is the thermostat.....

There is no reason to be an ass....I was just asking questions about stuff I am not sure about bob_nueske......

A side note on the hoses. Have seen old hoses collapse on the inside of the hose. They would look and feel good on the outside but would restrict water flow causing motor to over heat. How old are your hoses?

a gasket can go all ways ,your last neon probally had a cracked head ,but gaskets can let oil out the side, in the piston,water the same ,if compression is getting to the water area it will stop flow, no heater ,looks full at rad. air in system hot spot ,peg the guage ect. youll know just open the rad[cool] watch out pressure ,hold hand over cap hole [ouchy] if compression is pumping up ,bad news if not good carry on and let us know the progress well leave the light on for ya.

"damn, heather....this is starting to get scarey- might take a nap now, perhaps a more knowledgable individual knows something we don't. Check back in an hour or so-" that is what you said...I appreciate all the information you have given me today....I don't know a ton about cars so when I ask questions it is because I truly want to learn......thanks for all the help your assistance is no longer needed. 7jimmy7....I will let you know later this afternoon the outcome of that test...thanks for the info.

Did not mean to place an unsolicited kiss on your cheek, there missy....thousand apologies, getting back to your problem...at our shop in Berkeley we'd TAKE OUT the thermostat so as to omit that item altogether, of course the vehicle would not achieve correct operating temperature, but would know there's flow....gotta go with the flow..

it sound like a tempiture sending unit. Screwed into the block. cost about ten bucks to fix. had the same exact thing happen to my truck.

my temp gauge all over the place, not getting actual overheating, gauge just says so, no heat tho once the gauge says hot, but until then I have heat. now I am getting the flashing service engine soon, and then rough running. Originally just had whacky water gauge, so stupidly replaced water pump and water pump clutch fan cuz someone said that was problem, without looking at it....now I am really worried

also, 1997 chevy s10, always ran perfect till now

all coolant looks good and levels are great

from all my research and from offhand advice from armchair persons, one says temp sensor, and online says possible map sensor..anyone with experience have anything to say?

yes Rosie, we appreciate your courageous attitude around here, we're dealing with the eyes...scratch that the safety glasses, the sense of touch, MAP sensor checks the exhaust parts per million of CO and NOx passes through the EGR valve which either shunts the flow to the engine intake or to the exahaust and the MAF sensor which also comparatively measures the parts per million of various gasses...all total the ECU being the brain of the operation decides how much gas to squirt to the injectors both in terms of size but also duration from the gasoline loop that is regulated from your fuel pressure regulator. mixed dacqueri...don't mind if I do-

So our friend the ECU takes measurements from the 02 sensor, then reports to the MAF sensor and compares the EGR before and after readings, and also determines the fuel distribution based on the TPS (throttle position sensor)- two olives tanquerey please~

We are having the same issue with our sons 97 chevy s10. Just last February we replaced the thermostat, temp sending unit, and clutch fan then tried a 4dollar flush solution from auto zone and it has done great since, until we just recently put in the antifreeze for this winter and it has started overheating again. The heater works fine so I am at a loss now, any suggestions?

point a 15 dollar thermo-spot gun at the radiator to see where the clogs are~

Thank you judge_roy, but I just got it back from the shop the other day and was told by the mechanic that the radiator has a crack in it and also a block test was ran and found combustion gases coming into the radiator.. So either a cracked head or head gasket.. I appreciate you responding to my comment though.

dont always trust the mechanic at the shop

You have to remember there trying to get paid

if he's a gray haired guy...at the "Gas Station" mechanic his whole life, has fixed all the family's cars and smokes a pipe and takes a real long time...that's the mechanic who we should be dealing with....I'm talking about Mike's on Silver Spring Drive in Milwaukee, WI....you can just tell the motivation there....the guy would go on his back with a pan to do an oil change....the other service bays were taken by others....that's the level of dedication~

Hey roy I'm having so cooling issues also.1st F#$k this Chevy. It desnt seem to be working right I think I have air in the system it ran dry a week ago so I added fluid and everything went back to normal accept my radiator hoses seem to be extra stiff like the system isn't flowing properly. I've replace thermostat and radiator cap car isn't over heating but lines on intake and exhausts seem exta stiff and there isn't any spring in the line to keep from collapsing any ideas

How did you drain your radiator?? I cannot seem to find the drain plug, thanks

How did you flush the system??

If it overheats after running , check for missing radiator fluid. (Water and anti freeze). Anti freeze keeps engine cool. If it is low on fluid , check radiator cap pressure.

I HAVE 96 CHEVY S-10 JUST CHANGED THE WATER PUMP THERMOSTAT AND FAN CLUTCH AND MY TRUCK IS STILL OVER HEATING...WHAT ELSE CAN I CHECK

This might be the worst answer of them all. But i had the same problem a couple of years ago. My 1997 S10 had issues with overheating;come to fine out there was hairline crack in the engine block.Check your oil for coolant.Team Chevrolet had to put it under a lot of pressure.After the motor was replace they drop my warranty. :)

I have a 1994 LS Chevy S10 Pickup that overheats when I go up hills but not when I go down them. I have replaced just about everything that can be replaced. The radiator is full of rust even though I have had it flushed more than once. I don't know whether or not that causes a vehicle to overheat. Rather than answers, I have more questions. Help me if you can. Heat and water pump have been replaced.

03 Chevrolet s10 zr5.. we are having the exact same problems.. heater just quit heating also.. hesitates and jerks when coming into 2nd and 3rd gear.. sometimes wont shift into passing gear.. along with overheating issues.. when we took thermostat out the bottom was gone.. no idea where it may be.. tester at O'Reilly said exhaust leak or exhaust problems.. but didnt pinpoint where.. somebody please HELP US!!!!!!

I had 2000 and 2003 isuzu hombre which is the same thing as an S-10. NEW the trucks would overheat if you were sitting IDLE in traffic for a long time. If the bottom shroud is loose or a piece of it missing it would overheat. It has a ONE CORE radiator and an AC looks like microchannel condenser coil. I think it's simply UNDERDESIGNED to handle the heat load on purpose so as to destroy and overheat the engine. Getting a 2 core radiator may help. I live in FL but I remember SAME PROBLEM when new-- NEW. GM makes CRAPPY cooling systems to blow up engines on purpose. I had 85 Camero with cooling problems if 1 thing is out in any part of the system. Crappy cooling system.

I has a 2000 chev s10 i have a lack of power in accer. some time