Won't start gauges do not work

I hate to say it but it your ECM might be bad. Check your fuses, relays, and wiring. If none of those work, hook up a diagnostic and see if there's any codes that you can see to fix it before my assumption.

Not sure if your problems are unrelated here from your description...however. There's a little I guess black box under your hood. The proper term is the integrated power module. It's that thing with the fuses n relays in it and while it's important to check those fuses first, it also has something called an ASD relay whose only job is to turn on n off the fuel n spark when you wanna go somewhere. Sometimes, like all pieces of our magical amalgamation of electro-mechanical wonders of technology, it can fail. Pull this relay n first, check the connectors for corrosion. If that brings no epiphany to your quest, swap it with another like shaped/sized relay in the IPM. You'll notice that many/most of the relays are the same part number with the same pin arrangement. Your "gauge" problem, I'm guessin' here is nothing more than the tach n speedo not cycling when you go to the "run" position on your ignition switch?!? If this is true, try the ASD relay first. I think that the engine computer knows it's not gonna get what it needs to set in motion the things that bring about engine life so it stops sending out things that aren't integral to engine life...but that's just a guess based on your description. But also note if your check engine light is on n stays lit. That should get you started, we're all counting on you...good luck!

I have a 02 Dakota that guages went crazy. Guages all froze over to the right. The mileage meter said "NO BUS" I had a lot of mechanics tell me it was something they had never seen before. Also had a lot of Dodge owners said they had same problem and put in new computer and that did not fix the problem. Everyone said it "could be the computer, but new computer usually doesn't fix it." So I watched a you tube video and learned that it most likely WAS in fact the computer, but here's what you have to do if your computer is bad. Go to ebay and order a computer from a company who will PREPROGRAM the computer to YOUR VIN NUMBER before they ship it to you. If it's not preprogrammed to your vin number, it won't fix the problem. I ordered a computer for $269 (plus sent him my old core) from a guy on ebay who preprogrammed it to my vin. I put it in myself following the instructions that came with new computer. Only had to remove four bolts and three plug-ins to change it and the job was done. Worked great and has been working fine ever since. I don't know if your problem is your computer or not, but if it is, the way I fixed mine above could be a simple solution. Good luck.

Im having the same exact issue. Did you ever figure it out. Gauges sit all the way the the left, alarm light on, turns over but wont start. After awhile I'll try again and the gauges work and the truck will start, but it has died on my while Im driving 3 times. Please help

My truck (2000 Dodge Ram 1500) was out for a whole month because of this. I had some mechanics that I trust look at it, and we all couldn’t figure it out. I was told it was the alternator, the fuel filter, fuses, the starter, and a whole bunch of other things. Once it stopped starting all the way, mine gave one click. They jumped it and put a new battery in and its back to how it used to be. My symptoms were no bus blinking in the odometer, no gauges working and sometimes an engine light, my radio and lights would come on but the engine would not start. I was told that with Chrysler vehicles, if the engine doesn’t have a consistent 12V, problems will occur. Even though my battery levels were fine on the dash, my battery was shot. It was an Everstart btw. My symptoms got worse as the battery died. I hope this helps someone; I kept coming back to this same forum hoping someone would update, so now that my issue is resolved I want to share my paticular solution with others.

I had the same problem and im yet to get a good soulition . Mine just killed on while driveing all guages went left dash lights work headlights work it has spark at the coil but no fuel is getting to the plugs . Changed fuel pump but that didnt help either .can any one help me thanks

Same with my 2002 Dodge Ram Van - been happening for a year now, and no one can figure it out. New computer, new alternator, same problem.

Updates

I have a 2002 ram 5.9 starts then dies and gauges don’t work on dash anyone know Whatsup? Please please anyone?

I also have an 02 ram 1500 slt with the same problem I have found that everything lights up but the volt meter and gas gauge won't cycle all the time and usually slow. The truck will not start til they do and everything normal after that runs like a charm. I have replaced fuel pump, ignition switch and battery as well as relays and fuses. but still no change turn the the key to on and wait for them 2 gauges to move if they do not turn it off and do it again til they do keep in mind sometimes it is taking 10- 15 seconds for them to move once they do she will bust right off no cranking and business as usual, so if somebody has figured this out please advise I see this thread is a year old.

I changed my battery and every thing works fine now . The battery was not putting out a constant voltage to the fuel pump so it would trip the computer and it shut everything down .

what amperes of battery needed? does amperes has something to do with the voltage needed?

Y'all I had that issue months without my truck trying to figure it out. CHECK THE ECM FUSE!!!! That was my problem, it was blown and as soon as I switched it out, BOOM, it cranked!!!

Hey yall i did alllllll that and it ended up being the battery was not putting out the correct voltage and even though it turned over it was tricking the ecm into thinking it was sending the right voltage to the fuel pump but not the other components its fine now thanks to all

I have a 2005 Doge ram 5.7 it had sat since 2014 with 106000 miles put new fuel pump in it ran great for a bit now you turn key on fuel gauge doesn't move and it's full and you turn the key and hear the fuel pump run but doesn't turn over PLEASE help thanks

Y'all I dont know What going on my gauges dont work but everything else does my moter will start and run fine its because we did a Cummins swap about 4 years ago but none of the gauges are working but I'm pretty sure the pcm went out but I dont know for sure any help please

UPDATE..... I READ THIS COMMENT ON ANOTHER FORUM AND IT WORKED AFTER EVERYTHING WE CHANGED... ONE BRASS SCREW AND BLOWING OUT PLUG WITH AIR HOSE....THE ENGINE PURRS UPDATE! And to everyone who has had this problem with their Dodge pickups. I have been in contact with another guy who saw my original post, he asked me a few questions to see if I had any luck with solving this instrument cluster failure. Derek actually solved this, Way to go Derek, you, my friend, are my hero! Under your hood beside the battery is a big black fuse box. Remove your battery terminals, take the cover off of the fuse box. There is a connector with a single brass screw holding that connector on, loosen that screw so you can unplug that connector. Blow out any dust or dirt you have in there, Dereks was dirty, mine, the screw was just loose, put that connector back on and tighten it up, put your battery terminals back on, you should be all set. Mine and Dereks was simply that connection. I will need to replace that brass screw because as I said, mine was loose and would not tighten up to a snug fit, the connector had already started to work its way up out of that slot. I hope this will help everyone else who has this issue. Best of luck to you all. Way better than paying 600-700 dollars for a new instrument cluster or 800-850 dollars for a new PCM.. I have to wonder how many dealers actually charge customers for a new PCM or cluster and don't even actually change them out, instead just fixes the connection problem. Dealers can be crooked as ol' mary hell. Laugh if you want but I have had to pay for parts that a dealer never did put in, thats why I stay as clear of them as possible unless I have a vehicle thats still under full warranty..

mine actually was the PCM my gas and battery gauge wouldn't work when it was cold I would take a hair dryer and blow some heat on the PCM for a little bit turn the key back on a poof they worked and would fire right up . Also the fuel pump wouldn't run when the gauges didn't work nore would it turn over . And I figured that out just with good old dumb luck by that I mean I unplugged the computer once and left the key on and plugged it back in and I could hear the injectors all turn on and the relays and it would fire up so I tired the hair dryer and that worked till I got a plug and play PCM from FLAGSHIP1 for 239.00 the programmed it to my truck shipped it and there it went never had a problem since but it hasn't been cold either

My proem was a bad battery. It was not putting out the correct voltage replaced the battery and it bin fine ever since

I own a 1998 3.9 dodge ram van. Bought it second hand t first the only issue was that the gauges kind if came and went all on their own, other than that acceptable performance. After a few weeks it started stalling but gauges where doing ok bus and everything. From then it all going south. Gauges just wont move gas light always on. Bus works, cranks and sometimes starts good idle and half a block away itll just die. Leave it be for a couple of minutes and itll start again same thing half a block and dead going really slow. On long stretches (just love to push my luck and get stranded on the highway) ot will coff a couple of times like everything missfired and itll pick up right away. BTW no codes in the computer. No engine light. So far ive thrown in these possible suspects, new distributor pick up sensor, new crank shaft sensor, new ignition coil, (these last ones are the ones that usually woudlnt generate any codes) checked on every single fuse and relay, any thoughts?

Wackyjaquie the brass screw in the fuse block under the hood worked for me. I drove it around allday and it died 20 times but i kept getting it going and making it continue. Finally went to tinkering read this post and began to mess with brass screw, it had corrision or dirt of some sort built up, i couldnt get it to come out but i backed it out and noticed screwing it back the corrosion wasnt blocking it and i drove it for 2 hours and it ran perfect under high beams, ac on full blast, and radio on. Temp ran cooler, more power, and the ac was colder! I would def start at that brass screw, i just spent $260 on a redtop batterie, was thinking about an ignition, ecm, tps, cps, iac, spark plugs, coils, etc. thank god i only bought a battery. Hope this helps someone else, parrs are expensive and frustrating

I have a 2002 Dodge ram 1500 5.9 l and I had the same issues no spark no fuel I changed almost everything and finally realized it was my computer I went to the junkyard and actually bought one for 50 bucks and it started right up I was lucky getting one so cheap at the junkyard but it works great

im sorry but i see no brass screw holding ANY connector!??? Only thing close to a brass screw under my fuse box lid is where the screw that holds the fuse box lid goes into.... can someone PLEASE post a pic of this screw so i know what everyone is talking about?? PLEASE????