Crank no start (when hot)
Hello, I have a 1999 camaro rs with the 3.8 litre
supercharged engine. Baught the car last year and ran
good for about 2 months and then started to stall out after
it got to running temperature. I have engine codes for fan 1
and fan 2 also have a cps code as well. I replaced the cam
sensor and that didn't work. The problem seems to be
getting worse now I have abs light also left turn signal light
and high beam light stay on until the car warms up. I've
tried to check the ground wires and clean them up that
didn't work. Also when I drive at night and hit a bump in the
road my headlights flicker or go out entirely. I've run out of
patience with this car and just want it to run like it should
and be reliable. I also get about 200 kms per fill up. Please
help me!
could it be your fuel pressure regulator? http://www.partsgeek.com/xfhh4n9-chevrolet-camaro-fuel- pressure-regulator.html? utm_source=shoppingcom&utm_medium=pf&utm_content=wc&ut m_campaign=PartsGeek+ShoppingCom&fp=pp&utm_term=Chev rolet+Fuel+Pressure+Regulator
the main ground strap from the battery connected to the chassis and to the motor need to be tidied up with a wirebrush and water rinse~ 50 AMPS needs to get through there...flickering would indicate a loose clamp on the positive AND the negative having blue corrosion on the important connections would solve your problem for NO Money...'cept a little water and scratchy brush~
Bob_nueske it wouldn't make sense for that to happen. Forgot to inform that after it stalls out and has the crank no start, I let it sit for about 20 minutes and it will start again no problem and drive fine. Until it gets hot again.
my poppa, who designed LEAD out of car battery design in like 1995 tells me the new tin-antimony batteries have a life of about TEN years before they stop accepting a re-charge~ so check the date embossed on top...perhaps you need a NEW battery~
well it's scientific...do to expansion and contraction of dis-similar materials...combined with a dodgy connection is a miracle it even starts at all...Salty mid-west places will Ruin a car this way~
Problem solved in my case... 1995 3.4L would start every morning with no problem... Good strong idle, etc.. Once engine got up to operating temperature, it would idle fine, but as soon as I accelerated, it would stall.. If I was in a drive scenario from the cold start, I could literaly be driving down the highway and it would stop and not start... A Clear Flood start would eventually get me going just enough to get off the highway... Tried all the fixes everyone else has recommended... IAC, Temperature Control Sensor, New Coil Pack and Ignition Module.. As everyone else, I spent a lot of time and money.. My goal was to put in a lower operating temperature thermostat to keep the engine cooler.. (Since it runs so good cold).. Upon removing the MAF to get to the thermostat, I was really blown away as to how much crud was behind it. I mean a lot.. Looks like never before cleaned... Now mind you I had already used the MAF spray to clean the front side... The MAF spray did a credible job cleaning the back side, but there was so much, I eventually hade to use a wet towel and scraper to get if all off...Also, I noticed that the crud extended all the way up into the chamber where the PCV sits.. So I cleaned all of that out, put the thermostat back in and went to start the car, not expecting anything, but to my surprise, after about a minute, my engine idle dropped from about 1000 rpms down to around 750.. I was a little surprised, then I noticed that upon acceleration, the engine no longer hesitated... Still afraid to take her on the street, I drove around the corner several times and shes breathing easy, running like a racehorse... She's back on the road again... This solved it for me... Hopes this helps...
