What role does the ecm play in giving the fuel pump power to turn on?

jog the start position,should run 3 or4 seconds,or get under the hood turn key on and pull the relay jog it on off should feel it click and maby youll hear the pump,

Thanks for the reply. I tried that already and still no response. Even changed the relay. You think the control module will need replacement?

be sure your battery terminals are clean and ground, and full power can get through~

All that is brand new. Fuel pump is about 1 year and a half old. Just did a tune up. I got half a tank of gas. When I move the key forward without cranking it I don't hear the fuel pump activating. Once I try to crank it, it wont start. I checked the wires feeding the fuel pump and there is no power coming to the fuel pump. I'm just not that savy when it comes to electrical problems. I'm just at wits end. Thanks for the feedback guys. The only other thing I can think of is problems with the control module. But how can I know for sure its that?

You know I learned earlier from DavidH25 that these DO have a safety interlock that cuts off fuel if it thinks it's been in a collision. I knew that ford has this so that fuel does not spray in a collision. press a special button to reset. havn't learned where this button is. perhaps one guru who's in the know can chime in...please~

well you can look at what trouble codes are there. as I recall it has something to do with putting the ignition on for twenty seconds, then the mothership sends a message, don't quite know for sure see if someone who actually knows how to do this please-

well if you can emit some fuel in the intake somewhere 1/6 cup it should respond to cranking,prove its fuel related,then look for a pressure check valve on the fuel rail on engine you can ck. pressuer ,wear goggles,,if no fuel pressure your here now ,power only goes to pump for 2 seconds if not cranking ,ck .fuse under hood also,

yeah jim, but compy thinks it's been in a collision. got to reset I think by putting the igntion on for a while and noting the codes- should have to look at resetting fuel switch, and will do it right.mmmmmmmfriggin now, give me a sec-

1.) Look for an access panel in the trunk, driver's side; it might even be labeled "Fuel Pump Reset". 2.) Open the compartment and press the red button. This should reset the pump. 3.) At this point it might be a good idea to "burp" the fuel tank. This will probably be the easiest thing you do all day! Just pop the cover and unscrew the gas cap, this will release any preasure built up inside the tank. As long as you're in a controled environment, go ahead and leave the cap open until you finish "Step 4". Otherwise "burp" it a couple of times while you're priming the lines. 4.) The next step is to prime the pump. In other words, make sure there is enough gas in the fuel lines to start the car. The easiest way to do this is by turning the key back and forth from the "OFF" to the "ON" position. *** Be sure not to turn all the way to the "START" position until you have performed "Step 4", at least 3 or 4 times. If you attempt to start the car before the fuel pump is properly primed, you will run a serious risk of burning out the pump. This could lead to even more costly repairs!!! 5.) Replace the gas cap before attempting ignition. 6.) Once you have reset the pump, burped the tank, primed the fuel lines, and replaced the gas cap; you should be all set! Go ahead and give it a crank, good luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

older chevys had that oil presure cut off also[ like an oil pressure switch] it killed the pump for no oil [hay ck the oil by cracky]

yeah, that post was a google-nut crunch- give crede to the contributor if I could remember who, but it is a basic procedure, if not from this source from another. there isn't a monopoly on good practices.

have you tried listening at the gas cap to see if can hear it at all? if you don't you'd want to check the relay and fuse, if not those it could be the pump, if the battery terminals and cables are all "like new clean" make sure you keep up on your battery maintenance

I finally took it to a shop. Seems the ecm is the problem. Now im waiting to see what the estimate will be. It wasnt sending power to the fuel pump. Is anyone familiar on how much it will cost me? Ballpark figure.Thanks for the ffeedback guys but this diagnosis was out of my league.

A loose or missing gascap would give a CEL, but not shut'er down!

mariroger, will goog a price...now-

$85.27 from parts geek. Don't pay any more than that.

well mari- you've dragged us kicking and screaming through this experience and what have we learned?

We learned that if your fuel pump isnt receiving power then your control module might be shot. I just hope the auto shop doesnt drop the hammer on me pricewise. Thanks guys for the feedback. We learn something new everyday.

i have a 1997 chevy subran im currently working on wit a 350 vortec. iv been working on this car for 4 days ive change the crank sensor, full tune up new distubator, spark plugs its start for 2 sec then dies my obi2 scanner has a code 1351 thats a manufacture control ..could this be the reason why the truck wont stay started..

Mines doing the same thing it's starts for 3 seconds then dies I'm wondering why the problem is

Fuel pump

I have a similar issue but I cut In with the grey wire and put it on a 12 volt ignition it starts but floods but I guess the brain isn't telling the pump what to do and the fuse box under the hood for the fule pump relay all the Points on it is dead no power and ik the brain isn't bad cause I've tested it any ideas thanks in advance

for the people where the truck runs for three seconds and then shuts down, its your key not reading properly through the cylinder. put the key in the ignition turn it on let the ignition stay on until the security light goes out. you have now relearned your key. have a great day.

thank everyones for your advice. just replaced relay switch and fuel pump but fuel pump was getting power and relay but not at tank. connectors under relay box under hood on driver side fender were burnt

I have a 98 ck 1500 replaced pump filter and relay, and still the relay gets extremely hot to the point it has started to melt a pin on the relay, any idea's?

https://m.youtube.com/watch? v=PvVgu6E_z4w \ X | 2 | X | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | X / `\X | 10| X | X | X | 14| 15| 16/ ``------------====-------------- PIN Function 2 J1850 Bus (+) 4 Chassis Ground 5 Signal Ground 6 CAN High (J-2284) 7 ISO 9141-2 K Line 10 J1850 Bus (-) 14 CAN Low (J-2284) 15 ISO 9141-2 L Line 16 Battery Power__________________ http://www.youtube.com/watch? v=Bc-kLhYnjLQ&feature=related

\ X | 2 | X | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | X / `\X | 10| X | X | X | 14| 15| 16/ ``------------====-------------- PIN Function 2 J1850 Bus (+) 4 Chassis Ground 5 Signal Ground 6 CAN High (J-2284) 7 ISO 9141-2 K Line 10 J1850 Bus (-) 14 CAN Low (J-2284) 15 ISO 9141-2 L Line 16 Battery Power__________________ Sorry bout that http://www.youtube.com/watch? v=Bc-kLhYnjLQ&feature=related https://m.youtube.com/watch? v=PvVgu6E_z4w

Seems like harness has rubbed and grounded wires, tracing start ay back.

I have a 1996 dodge ram 1500. Have replaced computer by previous owner. Truck wasn't running when I got it. Fuel pump not getting power to it. Brand new relay and pump. Put gas in throttle body, truck runs. Till its out of gas. 3-4 seconds at best. Checked grounds. All seem good. I cleaned them to be safe. I'm about lost. Should I check to see if a new computer will work? He said it has 360, vin number says 318..... What to do?

Crank position sensor. Shuts the injectors off when it's bad.

It was replaced by previous owner. Not sure

I have power at my tank, I cannot get power to pump, 3 wires, will fuel gage have power using a test light, black purple and gray, it's a 96 350, have new pump and it's not kicking on either

Someone call me 270 507 8060

My van is chevy 02 1500 Problem started on underside of fusebox in engine compartment, driver side. BCM wire connection corroded. My mechanic ran a new wire to BCM from underside of fusebox connection. Body contol module. Van runs again. BCM cut power to fuel pump. 350.00 he charged me. Week later dist cap failed flooding the car, everytime you crank it injects fuel. Problem solved. Cpl more weeks later starter motor failed. So spent bout a grand or more to get it running 3 times. Headlights flash in daytime is annoying at night it stops. Alarm system seems only partially bypassed but it runs fine. Tip... keep over 1/4 tank of fuel or pump runs hot on most fuel injected cars and prevent premature pump failure. Make sure you have spark to prevent flooding. It injects everytime its cranked. Good luck.

Hey guys, Having a similar problem with a 1999 Suburban. Fuel gauge started jumping pegging out then to empty. Stopped at the store put 20 in it to be safe. Drove about 30 miles stopped at store. Wouldn't start. covered the TB with hand and it would stay running, but rough. Had to wrap a t-shirt around air filter to cripple it home.

My husband wrecked my 2000 Chevy surban 1500 4wd the code reader we have says it's something to do with our fuel lines where can we find the rest button for it

93 Chevy sports car show coach edition. Sometimes starts but just noticed fuel pump sometimes don't kich on. Is it the fuel pump or strarter problem?

I have an 03 suburban. Started running sluggish after getting gas. And progressively got worse within the day and got to the point where it wont start. Ive replaced plugs(although my buddy gapped them way wrong) so i plan on replacing those again. Ive changed fuel fump, filter, maf, map, tps, iacv, camshaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, and drained the fuel and put new fuel in it. It cranks and acts like it wants to start but will not run. Anybody have any answers?? Someone mentioned knock sensors, but ive never heard of a knock sensor keeping a vehicle from running... Completely lost need help

Where is the body control module located in a 1997 Chevrolet suburban c1500?

Other end of pink wire from under hood fuse box connects to BCM. Then there is wire from BCM to fuel pump. check connections from under fuse box

Fat pink wire connects under fusebox then runs across the cab in a harness. I have a van so cant help on locatiion.

Fat pink wire

Connections corroded under fusebox and check to BCM. Do this first.

to much ether causes low compression after a while on old engines,not applicable here;my chev 3500 truck wont start-was running fine yesterday--sometimes coI bought relay and fuse today- may installmorro

Seems I'm having a similar issue with my 98 ck1500/ 5.7 Z71 My relay has tested to be good, my oil pressure sensor closes at as low as 5psi. When my truck is running I pull the relay and it quits. This tells me the oil sensor is the fault yet I can bench test and prove it's operating properly. From a cold start , through the working relay my truck will start some times and sometimes not. I've removed the pump and tested with a pail of fuel. I put the pump back on line with the pail not the gas tank and it shower fluxuation between 30-55 psi. While the truck was running I once again pulled the relay and the fuel pressure dropped off till the truck quit. I rapidly removed the oil sensor and proved it again. Reinstalled and no success. Seems to be no power to my pump at the moment. I'm very frustrated and I don't want to through parts at it knowing all the components are operable. Please helppppp

I have. 1998 k2500 changed 3 fuel pumps an truck won't start. Now when i turn key on pump primes and tail lights come on. Pump shuts off tail lights go off. Pumps putting out low pressure. Any one have any ideas?

I had the same problem, after changing my fuel pump and my relay I decided to get on the oil pressure sensor. That's what it was!, $59 was all I needed.

Sorry Roger, seems I answered the wrong question. As for your tail lights my only thought ( as weak as it is) is the wires may have been compromised when the tank was reinstalled. I assume you dropped the tank when you changed your pump, as I did. If you have the key on and a spotter checking for you, try to simply manipulate the wire harness as it goes up over the tank.

Sounds like the pulled the bed and pinched some wires installing it...

When you turn your key on to the 1st position for your fuel pump to prime there is a fuel relay switch or so called solenoid. Either 2 of them separate or 1 big one with 2 switches in it. It will click and activate your pump if its working correctly. Then when you go to start your car the other one starts pushing gas constantly while the car is running as long as it stays in contact otherwise the car will stop running. To make sure its not the pump or wires google your vehicle and look how to by pass the ignition with 2 fuse touching wires together and that will activate your pump if working properly.

i have a 2003 tahoe/suburban and when i drive it it stops getting power like it is not getting any gas to it the it sputs and then goes dead after you let it sit for a few minutes it starts back up

First of all this thread got high jacked, it is about a ford fuel pump not getting electrical power then it switched to chevy which has an entirely different system in it. So lets take this thread back to the ford for a moment. In all likelihood the highest probability is that it is a bad wire or ECM. The fact that there is no current to the fuel pump can mean the following....1) your crank sensor is out because when the crank sensor goes out it can gradually go out causing many similar symptoms as it cuts off fuel AND spark ...2) your ground wire to your car's computer is not tight or secure and without a secure ground to your ECM you will not get permission from your ECM to send current to your fuel pump ….. 3) your ECM is faulty and needs replaced ….. 4) your computer relay has slightly corroded metal plug prongs that need sprayed with a solution to clean contacts and then plug it back in because your computer relay gets the electrical current first which is then sent to your fuel relay and then from there the current is sent to your fuel pump, I personally experienced this working on a 1989 F-150, remember, 70% of the time its not your sensors, its the plug or connection going to your sensors that is the problem although crank sensors commonly go out on fords from 1993 to 2005 models. But in all my experience it is definitely either A) the computer relay or the fuel relay (which usually sit right next to each other in the under the hood fuse box) or B) a ground wire from your ECM to the car's body or from the car's body to your fuel pump ground wire or C) a shorted out wire from under your hood's fuse box (easy to view those wires just by looking under the hood's fuse box) or D) your fuel reset button needs reset (located in your trunk on drivers side) or E) your crank sensor or F) if you recently replaced your fuel pump in your tank it may have become un plugged if it wasn't plugged in tightly or G) you have a faulty ignition switch (check for current going from your ignition switch with it in the start position to the computer relay under the hood, then check for current going from your computer relay to your fuel relay with a volt meter or a test light) Here are the things it CANNOT be...… 1) it cannot be your fuel pump if there is no current going to it especially if you recently replaced it (unless it became un-plugged) …. .2) it cannot be your fuel filter since this would not restrict current to your fuel pump …. .3) it cannot be a crimped fuel line since this would not restrict current to you fuel pump …. .4) your fuel level is too low because this would not restrict current to your fuel pump ….

I just spent 2 days trying to diagnose my 2006 Suburban. Driving around 55 mph lost power and died. Fuel gauge showed 1/2 tank. Had it towed home and checked fuses, relays, cleaned the MAF, & MAP sensors and the throttle body. Working outside, traffic made it difficult to hear if the fuel pump was working or not. I dreaded dropping the fuel tank as I have done this job before on previous burbs that I have owned. I thought maybe I'm really out of gas and the gauge has malfunctioned. Put a gallon of gas in and it started up. The gauge went to zero and the warning light came on. Drove to the gas station and filled the tank, runs like a charm! I got lucky this time. Will put fuel treatment in and drive till something else happens. Moral: Positively verify the fuel level no matter what the gauge says.

I got a 2002 Chevy 2500ho 6.0 Vortech dam thing runs great , fires up perfect barely hit the key and it’s running ... today got in it went through town to go get some gas and pulled up to a little hill to go on the Highway that died a roll backwards I parked along the street and I’ve been here for about four hours I’ve checked all the fuses checked relays I’ve checked everything my fuel pump is not kicking on if I turn the key the fuel pump is not doing nothing I took the fuel filter off first thing this morning and it was clean I check it first I put it back on there’s no pressure in it now there’s no pressure on the fuel rail so I’ve had fuel pumps go out before but they slowly went out early went out over a couple days time you know something and now it’s this one here just all at once it’s like there’s no power at all to it and I have a utility bed sitting on top of it so it’s hard for me to get in there to try to test wires is there anything ICan you check to see what is wrong with my fuel pump why it is not engaging , And yes it has close to a quarter tank of gas in it ...