Turn signals, windows, and power locks not working.

...yes, you must wirebrush the end of the black 1/0awg cable as it approaches the fender-chassis frame of the vehicle...this is where your system gets it's grounding...must pull at least 300 cold cranking amps...here and the cable leading to the motor block so the starter motor gets the firey 300 amps to kick it 'round~...another consideration is the grounding to the ECU, the ignition system and the fuel systems are ALL served by this [point zero] on the electrical diagrams where it all ends up going to...sadly with EVERY start this connection actually WELD itself creating a blue spark and a micro corrosion for which the grounding must travel creating a "brown-out" condition for the ECU offering varying amperages and voltages...playin' hell and tossing out CEL's because of insufficient data...need I continue...a sore subject but entirely the responsibility of the choice of materials involved here-----will they never learn?~

...and environment...crikey there is no way to keep ambient moisture out unless you're in a vacuum...air conditioning systems go to all great lengths to insure a "hermetic seal" of the refrigerant...somehow we get that right...but basic high-power electrical is taken for granted...especially when it comes to salty-splashy or mud-envirionments getting past the splash sheild or perhaps you went a little too deep through the stream~

Well those are good answers and I will try, but this morning my wife says now radio and rear wiper do not work. What's going on?

you need good ground...point 0-0 on the schematic, is where it's at....that's the main GROUND connection which has to have a clean connection with a NEW battery....they the WW will work~