Vibration at certain speeds

it could be warped rotors causing it, do you feel it alot when breaking aswell? or is it specifically those speeds?

Hi JDavidson, Thanks for your reply. Just had a complete brake job, and it made no difference. And braking didn't affect it at all anyway. Do you know if this model has U joints or CV joints? Or, does anyone? Thanks again, Bob

unfortunately, i dont know what type of joints it has, nor do i even own this vehicle. wish i could help ya there but as part of the brake job, they did replace the rotors correct? as warped rotors can cause a great deal of vibration especially at elevated speeds. another thing is it could be a bad allignment, do you notice any excessive wear anywhere on the tires as that would be a good indicator.

Hi, Thanks again for your help. Re: the brake job, it was complete and changed out the rotors and turned the drums, but, as I said, braking didn't affect the vibration before or after the brake repair. Re: torking the lug nuts, I don't know what they used, but between all the spin balancing, changing out the new set of tires that came with the vehicle to a completely new set of tires, checking the front end alignment, etc., it would be hard to go back and find out if they torked them to a particular degree. However, the vibration preceded all this, so I don't think it has anything to do with it. I'm really starting to think that the CV joints may be the problem -- I had a "master" mechanic work on it, and he said that he changed out all three U joints, none of which had any grease. If Papa is right that my vehicle doesn't have U joints, it looks like he might be a liar. If he changed out the CV joints and simply mispoke and said U joints, wouldn't there be 4 of them anyway?

correct,no u joints on your car,their is 2 cv joints,1 on each front axle.when they go bad,when you turn the steering wheel left or right past a 1/2 turn you will here them clicking,a constant clicking until steering is straight again then it is quiet.

I'm pretty sure the 2006 Sorento (first generation/BL) is a rear wheel drive based vehicle didn't become front wheel drived based until the current Sorento (second generation/XM). You're Sorento should have U-joints, if it's a 4x4 it also has CV joints on the front wheels. The rear wheels are driven by solid rear axle. 2006 was also the last year with the 3.5L Sigma engine, which I've never really cared much for. Where are you feeling this vibration most prodominantly in the steering wheel or the seat? A vibration in specific speed ranges as small as those would usually lead me to start with tires or tire balance being the issue, that being said I have seen a bad CV joint cause a very specific vibration in an Optima (MG) at 63-65 mph with the steering wheel turned just a tick off center. I take it your Sorento is well past it's 5 year/60k mile base warranty if you're the original owner I'd take the vehicle to a Kia dealer if you haven't already been doing so in case the issue is in the drive axles because the non-transferable limited powertrain warranty provided to the original owner for 10yr/100k miles would cover your CV joints should they be the issue. Just a suggestion, good luck getting your concern corrected.

I have a 2005 kia sorento, rear 2wd. My car started vibrating when I accelerate between 30 and 35mph. I brought it in to the shop and they said it's the U joints. There are 3 of them on my car. I am looking for parts right now cause I hear the joints are $103.00 each from the dealership. I would hate to put this much money out and find out it's something else....email me if you have any other info...tammietrucker@yahoo.com Thanks

Bob I don't have the answer but I have experienced nearly exactly the same thing you have experienced with my 2011 sorento. It vibrates around the same speeds you posted and it's not all the time but most of the time. I have had my wheels balanced/rotated twice in the last 5 months and also got a full alignment, it didn't help. I did this through my local midas shop who I have been going to for 6+ years and he isn't out to rob me and he is puzzled himself. He finally told me that it may be something in the drive train and that I should take it back to the dealer and make them look at that seeing it's under warranty. I'm going to schedule an appointment and see what happens - wish me luck

Hi KK, Thanks for your input. Since my last post I have put all new tires on and it made no difference. I've now pretty much done everything anybody can think of plus 2 sets of new tires. I had my drive line checked when I changed out the U-joints, but I'm now ready to do it again -- I'd be interested in knowing if that turns out to be your problem. All the best, Bob

I have a 2004 Optima and I am having the same issue with vibrations and at the same speeds Arizonabob mentioned. Some time the vibrations are extreme while other times they seem to be very minimal.

something that has just crossed my mind is unlikely alothough it is possible that you actually have a bent rim on the car

or a out of round tire,just adding to last poster.

Hi Kia Owners I Think I might know your your problem My Wife has a 2003 kia sedona mini van it Had the same issues It was vibrating around 35 to 45 mph and when she would let off the gas and then press the gas it would go away We had the tires balanced and that wasn't it we couldn't figure it out . After some time went by One day I was riding with her I noticed It was getting worse letting off the gas and pressing on the gas she had to do more often .So we decided to take it to our mechanic and we told him what it was doing and at what speed it would vibrate and what we did to stop it from vibrating so we left it from him and a day or two later he called us and he said it was a clutch in the Transmission that was going bad causing the vibration at 30 to 45 mph. So she took it Kia and they looked at it and confirmed the same diagnoses so they replaced the transmission and the Vibration has gone away I hope this helps .

thanx, scooter. i will have my mechanic take a look at the trannie. all the best, bob

you DO have u joints. Sorento is a rear wheel drive vehicle. It is NOT brake rotors. Brake rotors do NOT technically warp but rather get a build up on them giving the pulsating effect when brakes are applied... I had it at 68-72, Kia replaced the rear end and it helped but it did come back. The rotated all of the tires in different configurations and determined it is one of the tires but they don;t know which one (nice huh) then I just had my timing belt and water pump replaced and the problem is Much less than it was... which leads me to believe it is something engine related perhaps harmonic balnce or something. Will let you know what I find but yours sounds definately like tires out of balance.

bob, i hope that you are no longer having this problem, but in case you are i have a suggestion. this particular model has had problem with the harmonic balancer(crank pulley) coming loose and actually causing the vibration its made to correct. you usually find out the hard way when the crank bolt breaks and you can no longer drive the car. i would visually inspect the crank pulley with the egnine running and make sure it doesnt wobble. not just at idle but also at higher rpms.also will the vibration come and go with acceleration? or is it constant? if its constant it almost has to be in the driveline

Hi James, I will check out the crank pulley ....can you tell me where and what it is? Re: whether the vibration comes and goes with acceleration, I don't know but will put it through some tests tomorrow and report back. Thanks for your help.

Hi James, The vibration seems to lessen somewhat when I take my foot off the accelerator, which I would assume means that it is drive line caused rather than wheels or tires. Can you tell me more about the crank pulley? Thanx, Bob

Hello all, just had tires replaced, new struts and shocks, alignment and greased both front and rear dirve shaft. Vibration is still there but not nearly as noticeable. I have noticed that it is not just a 3000-3200 rpm thing because when i run it in 2nd or 3rd gear at those rpms, i don;t notice it, yet if i run it up to aboe 4000 or 4300 I notice it because again that gets me to the 68-70 range. only other thing i can think of is drive shaft.......

bob the crank pulley is what connects to the crank to run all your accesory belts. its at the bottom of the engine and has 2 belts running around it i beleive. its about 8-10" round and should not have any noticable wobble to it

Well still at it.. It's driving me nuts! RPM has nothing to do with it, it's all about 68-70 mph. mine is a stick so if i am cruising at 72 and push the clutch in i can feel (though not as bad) as cruising under load at the mph.

Thanx James -- I will check it out. All the best, Bob

Check your Universal joints in the drive shaft. I think this may be your issue. My 2005 rw drive is making a rumble noise. hope this helps!!! Let me know

I have a 2005 Kia Sorrento LX and I have a rear wheel drive that just had the exact same problem. In my case it was a combination of carrier bearing, u joints and drive shaft. They originally replaced the carrier bearing with the three u joints and it fixed the problem. However, one of the u joints had a defect in it and fell apart on me 10 miles away from the mechanics. They replaced that u joint but only to discover that a new vibration had started. They thought that it might be the clutch or transmission, but my clutch/tranny mechanic said with 100% certainty that it was definitely in the drive shaft. Took the car back to the original mechanic and shaft should that the front end of it was badly damaged. It needed to be completely replaced and balance. Since it was caused by the defective part that they installed, I was able to get that replaced at no additional charge. I did of course pay for the carrier bearing and u joints that I originally went in for.

wow, alot of crap on here leading to, well, nothing helpful. I understand that everyone after given advice says "well, ill have my mechanic check it out...". See the problem clearly is many people just dont know what to look for. You need to know how much "play" should be present with many different components, where the vibration is felt, at what speeds, braking or accelerating or coasting, in what gear, a/c on or off, engine mounts broken, drivebelts loose, check engine light on, etc... these are all things that "mechanics" should be able to look at and be able to figure it out. this is not rocket science. but from what i have heard on here it seems all these "mechanics" work at advanced auto parts- they replace parts, they are not diagnosing the problems. i could go on and on how to diagnosis issues related to an air pump hooked to a highly sophisticated electrical system, but that would take too long. look for a "technician", just like getting bids on jobs for your house, interview them, figure out what skill level they have when diagnosing problems. DONT settle for someone who knows how to drain fluids and call them your "mechanic"....they will leave you with a bad taste in your mouth about your car, when in reality, its the person that YOU choose to take care of your pride and joy.

Hello. I had a vibration problem on my 2011 sorento LX V6 AWD for 3 years. The dealer changed rear differential and drive shaft. Finally, last month, he changed a rear wheel bearing and he found that a defect cardan. There is no more vibration.

If you are having vibration issues, before you do/have any more work done you might want to check and see if there are any TSB's that address the issue. A TSB is a Technical Service Bulletin that dealers get that address a variety of issues. Dealers won't tell you because the have to pay for so you need to ask. You can also look up your make and model; just Google Technical Service Bulletin's and just your vehicle and it should take you to sites you can click on to narrow your search. Hope this helps.

I do not have answer for you but in my experience it is a small misfire that only shows at heavy loads lke when shift fron 1 to 2, or highway speeds. 60 to 75 in my case i still trying to find out out exactly what it is but i have no luck but i dud plugs wires i hope is not the coils i am not looking forward to take that intake manjfold off again that timing can cause that problem since this is an interference engine if you happend to find out what it is becore i do please le us know

I have a kia sorento 2003 and I have notice that when I start the car and put it on drive and make a right or left turn it makes a rubbing sound under the car but it only happens when i start the car and put it on drive it only happens 1 time

I have a Sorento EX and I have vibration between 30 and 35 mph also above 80 mph. I believe it is the split drive shaft and the angle at which it meets at the center bearing. They now make a straight one piece drive shaft in CA and you can get it off of Ebay. It has been created for the Sorentos that have a vibration while giving it gas and it goes away when you take your foot off the gas.

Had to get drive shaft carrier bearing replaced. They don't get lubes usually and wear out.

Definitely does have U joints (universal). Unless I got lied to and ripped off...

I have a 04 and the drive shaft went out on me on the freeway i had the two part shaft and converted it to the long only single drive shaft b4 it went out there was the shaking of the vehicle, And yes it does have u joints. I recommend checking the drive shaft Before changing tires, brks, ect..this cld very well save ur life...

My 2005 Kia director ex shakes when I start driving. About 20-30 miles per hour. I was told it is the merchant bushing. It was shown to me by a mechanic. I forgot to ask if it had a front and rear bushing. Help???

I own a 2007 KIA Sorento EX. It is a powerfully dependable vehicle. VIBRATIONS Sorentos with rear-wheel-drive, have drive shafts with carrier bearings. KIA has a BULLETIN out for drive-shaft (center) carry bearings. They are expected to fail at 70K Miles. These drive shafts have three Universal (U) Joints. The Carrier Barring is frame mounted between the 1st and 2nd U-Joints. The last two U-joints allow for suspension travel of the rear differential (rear gear body) and wheel-drive axel housing. My Carrier Bearing lasted to 153K miles until it failed (obliterated itself). This is likely due to the fact I have meticulously manage variables (any change in performance, feel or sound). I really noticed this feel, sound and shake! It was more like of an off road rally on rocks at high-speed. When the carrier bearing came apart it allowed the shaft to spin freely in the round carrier housing. If you can imagine a drill bit spinning in a much larger hole, this was the affect of my drive-shaft on the bearing mount when the drive-shaft lost its centrifugal center. KIA sells replacement drive-shaft carrier bearings for $50-$70. Unfortunately if you own a 2007 and later rear-wheel-drive, you are “blessed” with a machine-press assembled drive shaft. AKA a drive-shaft expected to shed its carrier bearing at approx.. 70K miles. But that’s not the impressive part. The non-repairable replacement is between $900-1100 for the part alone. So, if you own a 2007 or later rear-wheel drive Sorento, I recommend forgoing the intended design of the carrier-bearing to reduce U-Joint wear. For cost and safety go to a straight drive-axel preplacement (two U-Joints). You can find them online. The weight of the entire straight axel is less than the original and is approx. $250-350 (way more affordable for the wear). Even if the U-Joints do fail, you have more miles for your money. MORE TIPS Tires are the number one most over-looked cause of most maintenance related break-downs. If not properly monitored or managed they cause un-intended weight distribution and vibration impacts on vehicle suspensions and drive-trains. This all translates through brakes, shocks, springs, axels, differentials, U-joints, transmissions and finally engine mounts and parts. God Speed!

hi, i think i have the answer about the vibrations problem. mostly the car is getting old, the chassis misaligned so as the engine mountings. axle bearings goes out and in in each housing. better to check the original alignment of this two components. in front drive, check the inner bearing of the right joint if it is inside the housing or at edge that causes the vibrations

Just solved our problem today and it was a surprise. Two bolts had dropped out of the front of the drive shaft, and the two remaining bolts were loose. One hole had to be regaled as had been damaged as the bolt fell out. Feel blessed we did not drive it until all fell out. The car had never been worked on so was a factory fault. Put in 4 new metric bolts with new lock washers and used locktight. No more vibration. Had done front end alignment, new plugs, was having the rt front break checked that was rubbing when discovery was made. Hope this helps some one.

I have a 2011Sorento like all I have a vibration at about 55 mph. Ive gotten all the things checked that everyone posted also had checked. I took it to my mechanic rear end rotors tires no warped rims no wheel assemly bad but he heard a small noise when putting from R to Drive. After putting on a lift it was found it's a rear motor mount. Ive found one online for $112 after being told its a dealer part $200

i am gonna look at the mounts ... just replaed the center support ... it seems the vibration is more prevelent when the fule tank is almost empty and lessens when the tank is full ... going to try rear shocks and make sure all tires are the same amount of air.. i have like 130 k and the vibration is the same as all the others going to check the bolt that has been known to brake as well >>////??? other than that hmmm //???

herd a bout solid one pice shaft but cant seem to find one

My problem turned out to be bolts loosened in the drive shaft, all by themselves. One was gone and the others were so loose they damaged the threads not just the bolts but also the flange on the transmission. Had to buy a tap like metric of fine thread and tempered bolts. All fixed now

My 07 kia sorrento was clunking really bad, well turn to find out my driveshaft is all one piece cannot replace carrier bearing! Its a scam by kia! You have to replace the whole thing because the rubber wore out and created all that space to move,

So i have to replace the whole thing which is 1100 dollars total and my co2 sensors are bad so im out 1800

Sorry to hear. My problem was not the universal joints, but the flange attaching to the transmission. I am surprised but then not surprised the universal joints can of be replaced since big business often do unjust things in the name of profit, number one is to maximize profits for share holders. No good for the environment.

so after reading every one of these comments / post i have yet to see anyone say what the problem is to the viberations? so let me be another kia owner of a 06 Kis sorento Lx over 200k miles ive owned the vehicle for over 5 years now. the vehicle shakes/vibrates pretty damn bad when first starting off or if its trying to go up any incline.. (like really bad) maybe transmission? but therea never any issues with the gears switching and it never had any issues going up inclines before, kinda just started happening one day. ive also noticed that now when i try to make any kind of sharp turns i hear some kind of clicking/clanging noises??? and to continue to the list ive noticed along with the bad vibrations that if i try to press the break to hard and not give myself enough time to stop it there are some clinging /clanking noises as well? im afraid to drive it and or take it to a shop and the problems not be solved until 5k later and at that point buying a used vehicle would have been a better option? if anyone has any input they can offer please email me a mposs545@gmail.com thanks in advance

Your drive-shaft Carrier Bearing Rubber housing will deteriorate (projected 70K miles). this allows the carrier to swing free when the Drive-Shaft meets a specific speed or torque swinging it our of center. A deteriorated carrier cannot return the shaft to center until you let-up on the gas. So, the problem will increase unless corrected causing severe shaking and even banging noises as the shaft pummels the carrier brakets. Since the carrier bearing housing and the drive-shaft are one assembly it can cost 800-1300 for a new shaft. Unfortunately, when you get a new one, it may not be balanced. So slight vibrations may persist.

You ever find an answer?

My gf has a 2015 Kia Sorento & it jus started bouncing & shaking really bad at 80mph but at 90mph + it stops I’ve noticed.. We have changed the tires & redid the rotors & pads & changed out the rear shocks for new ones & it’s still shaking & bouncing at 80mph & you can tell it’s coming from the rear because you can see the passenger rear headrest shake like a M*****F***** nothing in the front but you can feel it coming from the back through your seat. I’m thinking it has to be the Cv or U joints whatever it has on it idk which one it comes with but it can’t be anything else as we have tried EVERYTHING else to try fixing it. Her breaks also squeal like more then the indicators for the pads it’s way deeper screech then that. It makes you cringe almost. We can’t figure out that problem neither...