My Town & Country shuts down (stalls) while I am driving.

It could be something as simple as a bad battery. I have sold well over a 1000 and owned 10 myself and my experience has been that when the battery starts going bad they do just what you described

I have had the same issue. The problem is getting worse. It quit on the road 4 times. Always in the 20-30 mph range. The stabilizer light goes on, then power steering fails, breaks do not respond. Have to pull out key and restart. It has been getting worse over the last 6 months. Mechanics have no idea and say diagnostic check out fine. What do you do! I try 4 kids around in this thing!

Same issue here. 2010 Chrysler Town and Country 63,000 miles. Dealership has replaced computer module and throttle control. They assured me it was fixed and they were wrong again!

i have the same issue with my 2008 town and country. it's not the battery... had that checked. had spark plugs replaced, that didn't fix it either. left it at the shop for a week so they could try to figure it out and none of the test revealed anything wrong. this is an extremely frustrating problem especially that this is my only vehicle and i am a mother of 3. i'm scared to go anywhere!!

I had the same problem with my 2010 Town and Country. They replaced the egr valve and it now runs like a new van. Worth a try and it was covered under my warranty.

i don't have an answer , thats exactly whats happening to my 1997 town and country and I think you are right is the EGR valve or the little house the goes to it im going to check that thank you for the idea

Ask your mechanic to check the crankshaft positioning sensor. We had this intermittent problem forever until we were able to get the error code.

recalls for the ignition modules look to be the problem, but they don't have the parts to fix it yet.

My 2008 Town & Country began stalling 6 or more months ago. Three dealers and many calls to Corporate later, the car is still dangerous to drive. In fact, I refuse to - and I don't want to sell or trade and let someone else get killed dealing with it. I ended up in the left lane of oncoming traffic today because it stalled during a turn. Someone could have been killed. Why are we, as consumers, allowing Chrysler to blow us off??!!!? I think a class action suit is in order. This is an extremely dangerous fault!!!

I have the same issue i have 96 chrysler town & country and it shuts off while driving took it to diffrent mechanics and still cant find whats wrong with it and ot is scary driving with 6 kids in the car help please!!!

Get your egr valve looked at. That was my problem.

I will just add to the list here. I have a 2010 T & C and it does the same. Stalls intermittently while driving.........can be anywhere......its in the shop now over the weekend. They could not replicate the problem. They did read the internet and saw many instances of the EGR valve being replaced and suggested they may try this. I will update their diagnosis and if it was fixed next week.

It may be the case that the EGR valve is bad but I've read reports of peoples cars shutting off which sounds electrical where as the EGR would affect the idling and wat not. Let us know what happens.

We are having the same problem with an additional symptom... when it stalls or when we have gone out to start it, everything works but the gas gauge doesn't. all lights, radio, horn, etc... goes on and when you turn the key the engine turns over but will not catch. When it stalled going down the road there was no consistency of conditions(like it happens when speeding up or slowing down only). Ours is an '87 in great condition.

2010 T&C Mini Van..... cars shuts off while driving 20-30mph. Never has happened on hwy. Slip light on dash comes on. Exactly what happens when the recall for L25 was explained. I am the second owner so when this started happening I read about L25 recall brought it to the dealership and was excited to have it fixed just to find out it was already fixed. Now I am puzzled and more upset. Seems like there is a need for another recall after reading all the complaints. The man at the dealership said it could be the win module, a $800 PART.... oh then first to figure out if that what it was he wanted to charge me $110 to me diagnose it. Wtf again... for a vehicle that barely 5 yrs old seems like they should be paying for this. ``` fyi to all those this is happening to.... first complain, complain and complain! ***** Second a lil advice. When this happens. Just put car in Neutral and restart key, and car will restart save yourself from trying to pull over @ a possible accident that Chrysler won't admit fault.... thats

I believe there is a recall now for this problem. We dumped the van - I can not afford to chase a ghost. But check, as I thought they now have recalls for Town & Country with sudden engine shut down.

Update.... after researching this isue more....my bro is a mechanic and I remember my engine light came on and didn't stay on but when it did ... low and behold we had a computer on us.... it read po404/po406 which coincidentally enough is the egr system (exhaust gas recirculater) hich can cause a vehicle to stall.... here is the code websites for info .....http://www.obd-codes.com/p0406 http://www.obd-codes.com/p0404 Has anyone had the engine light com me on? my bro is going to fix this. Part is less than 100$ bro is free :) I let you know if this works -JO from NH

Look at this guys post...very helpful to me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9OwrhVOHe1Y

We have a 2010 T&C, starting stalling out last year. Especially prone to stall in the first 10 minutes of driving when temps hover between -5C and +5C, and especially when humid. Only stalls out at low speeds. Scary. Drive 3 kids, have stalled in the middle of busy traffic. Had tune-up/spark plugs/filters taken care of. Still persists. Will check out EGR links. Glad it's not just me.

I have the same problems as the others on my 08. I am on SS and severe arthritis and can't hardly maneuver this van when it dies. I have to think fast and put in neutral to restart. I can't just dump it, I don't have anything else.

I have a 2001 t&c. This keeps happening 2 me!!!! I'm so upset over it because this is mine & my husband's only means of getting 2 work. My van just shuts off. Steering wheel locks up. It's so frustrating. Idk what 2 do. Can't afford a new vehicle right now . is this valve that every1 istalking about expensive??? Is it hard 2 fix???

I almost had an accident this evening. I was making a right onto a street and it died leaving me with no steering and I ran onto the curb, put it in N and restarted. On a 3 mile trip to my sisters the stupid thing quit 6 times!! Why would they keep making Town and Country vans without fixing the ones they have already made. I am ready to cause some static!! Who knows a good lawyer, picket the dealerships, etc. I am mad and I'm not going to take it any more!!

Does Chryler or Federal safety dept. take action after serious accident....? My car is 2009 T&C. I almost had an accident this evening. The engine stall while crossing a junction .... same situation, no brake, no steering. Almost hit the car in front of me. The 1st stall happened about 2 years again... then, it happen more frequently recently... it's the 4th times for engine stall. Call Chrysler customer service for complaint... but they seems not care.. I sent back for dealership for checking after last engine stall. They charged me over $300 for cleaning of electrical panel, but the problem didn't go away. 3 kids in the car !!

I had the check engine light go on about a year ago. turned the key three times back and forward and got the code that the egr valve was the prob. well the engine light stayed on and I just kept driving it. nothing was wrong with it shutting off. Well this year the van started acting funny like it wasnt getting gas and thought well time to replace the egr and I had to get inspected so found the egr on amazon for 30 something $. put it on myself (which i know I did right) well the engine ran good for a few days. I travel 80+ miles to work and then some around town here and there. I had also a smell of gas coming from the car when i got out. I found that the gas is leaking (not allot) from the top of the tank by the fuel pump. but started doing the stalling out while driving. I was told by a guy that works on cars that i can take the egr off and clean out where its screwed to the engine also that i should just replace the fuel pump and see where that goes. which i will do by Monday. i will let you know what i figure out. and im going to check into all the things that was post on here and other sites that i have looked on. 07 town and country

My husband had the egr took off and cleaned but didn't help. I don't think I mentioned that the stall happens at a slower mileage like when I am just stating out of my drive, slowing to make a turn or at a stop light and not over 40 or 50. As long as I have my foot on the gas.

We have a 2010 town and country and it also dies while driving. Usually within the first 5 miles. Never after it is hot. We replaced the ignition module which was part of a recall but not on this van. But it did not fix our van. Always starts right back up and usually will not die again that day. Just spent 625.00 did not fix it. This is crazy.

I have no answer yet, but I have had the exact same problem that many have described here. Car often stall shortly after you start a drive and are still at low speed. It stalls first and then 3- 4 seconds or so later, the traction warning light comes on. It then started stalling more frequently, once on the highway and several times at around 30 mph. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS. It is only a matter of time before someone gets killed in an accident. Independent technician and Chrysler dealer each have looked at it and found nothing. We have 133,000 miles on it and it was fine until two weeks ago. I called Chrysler and they are just giving stock answers and offering no help. It looks like NHTSA is not about to do anything - they will wait until multiple folks have been killed in an accident before doing anything. This stalling issue appears to be something different than the ignition switch problem some T&C vans have had. I am going to see if the local dealer will look at the possibility of the EGR valve or Crankshaft Position Sensor as possible causes. My heart goes out to the Moms driving kids and the retirees who can't afford the bills or steer the car when the power steering goes out. If you can get into a new car, do it!

I'm sitting on the side of the road with my children In my 2008 took it to the mechanic they checked everything that everyone named above. None of it fixed the problem. The mechanic said he has not a clue what is wrong. For me to take it to the dealership. But with everyone already saying they took it to the dealership and no change. This is crazy

We replaced the PVC valve as a shot in the dark since it does not throw off codes to the computer when it goes bad. After leaving the dealer following its replacement, it stalled twice. Since then, it has never stalled again. Don't know if that fixed it or not but I am glad the problem has gone away. It might be worth a try - it cost about $200 tor replace.

02 T&C had a fuel gauge problem. Would show correct fuel level when first started but would go down to empty while driving, then car would stall after about 5 minutes or so. Would pullover,restart it, and continue with journey. That was a week ago. Changed fuel pump/fuel filter and sending unit. Problem still persisted. Now its started stalling spontaneously after restarting it. Now finding out that the fuel injector wiring harness on these vans are put right next to exhaust manifold which would melt the wires regardless of the heat shields on them. I think this is causing electrical issues. Snipped a harness from a scrap yard and going to extend and crimp the wires away from the manifold. Hopefully, this fixes my stalling and gas gauge problems. Hope this helps someone.

I have a 2000 Plymouth Voyager that kept stalling at low speeds. I had to put it in neutral when I wanted to stop or turn and keep one foot on the gas and the other on the brake. I dealt with this problem for years and took it to a Chrysler dealer many times for this problem. Eventually, the manager at the Chrysler dealership suggested changing the wiring harness. That fixed the problem.

Never switched out the wires since I didn't see any problem with them. I did reinsulate them and moved them away from exhaust manifold. Fuel gauge still dropping slowly but car hasn't stalled out on me yet. Hoping it doesn't ever...

This happened to me repeatedly, until 1 time it would't restart. Turned out to be a bad fuel pump. Not 100% sure it was the fuel pump going bad causing the intermittent stalls, but no stalls for a few months.

Just had this happen today on our 2002. We had a new battery, new EGR and just fixed fuel pump and filters and so we were at a loss... turned out to be a simple loss PLUG to our cam sensor. Soon as we secured the plug, everything worked perfectly

Check the wiring to the crank sensor. Oil gets in and melts the wires together. Look all the way from the sensor to the harness by the transmission

Our 2010 Chrysler Town & Country has stalled out while driving 5 times in the last 4 weeks, almost causing an accident 2 of the times. We have taken the van to 2 outside mechanics and the dealership twice. They cannot find the issue and we have already spent over $1000 trying to diagnose the problem. Chrysler Corp. has been uncooperative. I guess they are waiting until someone is killed to care. We have 3 young children and this is so wrong that they will not take this seriously. We are considering taking legal action. Anyone interested in joining us...email me at ridgeinsurance@gmail.com. Maybe a class action will make them jump!

Same problem. Was driving 30-40 mph, stalls out, lost brakes, powere steering. Called AAA for a two. He said, it was probably the fuel pump. Fel wasnt getting to the engine so the engine, power brakes and steering went out. Towed it to the dealer, and it was the fuel pump. 2010 Town and Country. 55,300 miles.

Anyone who has a 2010 T&C, be sure to check your EGR valve. We tried fixing a number of things but the stalling continued until we replaced the EGR valve. Initially, we had all the same symptoms you noted without any warning lights going on. Finally, the EGR valve deteriorated to the place where it triggered a warning light. That, in turn, showed the problem was with the EGR valve. If you have random stalling, have your mechanic check the EGR valve. It cost us about $600 to have it replaced, unfortunately. But all has been well since then. Also, in addition to the stalling, the engine seemed to be grabbing slightly (the best way we can explain it), especially in the first mile or two after we turned it on. If you have that, it may be the EGR valve as well as that has gone away since replacing it.

I'm having similar problems to most of the other posters. I'll no doubt try some of these solutions, but first I am going to dump a bottle of "Heet" into my gas tank. More than once, over the last 50 years that I have been driving, problems such as these have been solved by chemically removing water from my gas tank. Heet and other similar products do a good job of this and ensure that your fuel pump has fuel, rather than water, to feed your engine. Most of the time (for me at least) this problem has occurred following a major seasonal change when condensation issues have surfaced.

Same exact issue with stalling on our 2010 T&C. Took it to a good mechanic and they couldn't diagnois, then the check engine light finally came on months later, it was the EGR valve. Had it replaced this week and no issues yet. I did notice that the car would hesitate slightly and that is consistent with this issue. If you are noticing slight putter or hesititation, I would guess its the EGR value....

I've had the same thing happen to my 2010 T&C. My husband fixed the EGR valve & low & behold it just happened to me again in the worst location heading into another SUV. This certainly hasn't fixed the issue in our van. I'm also having issues of the transmission shifting extremely hard. I just sent an email to Chrysler directly & I suggest everyone should do this. Something needs to happen before someone is seriously injured. I am pregnant and have 3 kids under 3 in my car. NO good.

Apparently, the manufacturer of replacement EGR valves leaves something to be desired as our mechanic has replaced the original replacement twice more. Neither of the initial replacements lasted more than a month. So, there is a possibility the replacement your husband installed has gone bad. Our check engine light went on in both cases when the new EGR's went bad and we never had additional stalling. We had all the same symptoms you describe and these went away once the EGR was replaced. Sure hope you can get to the bottom of it soon. We were on the verge of getting a new car due to the safety issue when we finally got the warning light that the EGR valve was bad. It is very dangerous and I did not find Chrysler to be very helpful Since they just got an enormous fine for messing up on another recall issue, perhaps they will listen a little more closely to you.

Thank you for your response! It's frustrating b/c our expensive extended warranty didn't cover anything & my husband replaced it for 1/10 the cost. I'm sure he can do it again, but we'll now be out close to $400 I assume and over a week w/out a vehicle & making things work. I hope everyone can get their vehicles fixed & I just pray no one gets hurt.

My 2010 T&C has been in and out of the shop including the dealers several times for stalling/losing power/jerking. This most often happens during the first few minutes of driving and causes the vehicle to drop into limp mode. The code it gives is for the MAP sensor however we have replaced that twice. The mechanic has checked the wiring. The issue is getting progressively worse. I am curious about the EGR valve cited above and have talked to the mechanic about that. I will post here if and when the problem is solved.

Also Look to the Battery terminals for corrosion if your having your van stalling while driving. If they connection is weak and you hit a bump, boom and your car stalls. I had cleaned them and then a few months later the terminal had all but eaten thru the metal. Had to replace the positive side terminal to get it to work right.

Omg! Everyone is freaking me out here! Our 2010 t&c had been stalling out on us. It's always the first 5 minutes and really under 30 mph. It will work fine for a couple of months then boom it stalls a couple times a week. I just put it back in park and it starts right up. This is very scary with 3 kids 4 and under in the car! This is unacceptable all these people having the same problem!!!!!! This is serious!!!! Someone is going to be killed! What can we all do here?! Something has to be done! Should we call the news?! Troubleshooter?!

Get a new EGR valve and you car will be like new again. We have a 2010 T&C and have not had any problems since we fixed that (other than having to replace the EGR valve 2 more times because they were defective and had problems within a month of being installed. This last one has lasted longer so far).

I have a 2008 T&C that has been stalling, but also has a concurrent issue of not starting. Recently, stalled on the tollway when slowing down for toll booth and couldnt restart. The entire electrical went dead. Even the hazards. After getting pushed to the shoulder, it started and ran fine all the way home. Both problems have gotten worse this year. Dealer "cant duplicate." I'm furious!

One thing that I had over looked was a loose connection at the battery terminal I had to actually replace the whole connector on the end of the wire with a new one. Since I've seen no problems like I had before. SO I guess if the battery is not in direct connection with a running engine the car could shut down.

Bought a used 2013 Town and Country in July and now in August during a cold and rainy week, have had the van stall several times. Sometimes it happened when stopped and shifting gears. My wife had it stall when stopped at stop sign.

I have talked to Chrysler directly. They told me they have not had other's call on this issue & until that happens-they can't do any kind of a recall or even look into it. Please if you've had this problem-call them to complain. I actually sent an email & eventually after going back & forth w/ a Rep-asked to have a supervisor call me. Please call & make a complaint. This is extremely dangerous.

We also had our T&C back in the shop again for 3 days & couldn't duplicate the problem of course. this has only happened to me 3 times in less than 6 mths. we did change the EGR valve & it's happened once since then. We have to pay for it b/c it's not being covered under our extended warranty we paid for...i have no desire to continue buying this valve, but apparently may have to. David at Chrysler said if it's a part that is made by Chrysler causing the problem-they could look into it w/ more complaints. If it's an after market part-we need to contact the company directly. I'll be honest-I haven't checked this out yet.

I, too, called Chrysler and was told the same thing. I also complained to Chrysler that I did not like the fact that the dealership was wanting to charge me $1900 to replace the WIN/SKREEM module and PCM and could only tell me it MIGHT fix the issue. It is not right that we are paying for them to troubleshoot an issue they clearly have in the safety and design of the vehicle. I told them it was all over the Internet and the problem in tracking it lies with their algorithm they use to code and track the complaints. One customer service rep codes it as one problem while another codes it a different way, and so on. Thus, nothing will be done until some family is killed and some enterprising attorney researches the problem. I also told the woman I talked to when their solution was for me to have it towed, at my expense, to another dealer and pay for that dealer to evaluate it, that when someone is killed due to their inaction, I will be that family's attorney's most vocal witness. That comment was met with silence. After paying Chrysler Dodge dealer $250, I ended up towing It to my friend's house, removing the parts myself at less than 15 minutes each and sending them to Walton At Auto Tech in Laredo, Texas. He tested them thoroughly and could find nothing wrong, so sent them back, charging me $150. I am going over today to remove the battery and have it replaced (shows 10v on multimeter). It may be the battery and/or terminals as someone else suggested. Evidently the rolling codes the Chrysler dealer came up with were wrong about the WIN/SKREEM module. I suspect they never did basic checks such as my battery. I will let you know as I troubleshoot my own vehicle what I come up with. Btw, I am a female in my 50's with zero auto mechanical experience; however, the local parts store guy and You Tube have become my friends! Amazing what is on You Tube about this issue alone!

I'm so glad you've called Chrysler directly. My husband replaced the EGR valve so you may want to check that? I talked to my step dad today who is a mechanic & he said it could be the EGR valve & that it also sounded like a failed relay. I've also recently had problems w/ my van starting. this morning i turn the key & nothing. on the 2nd time it starts. since i'm not moving-this isn't as big of a deal to me right now as having a vehicle stall in the middle of traffic....however, it is happening more often. I told David at Chrysler I will never ever buy another Chrysler. I don't care what vehicle it is-it won't happen. It's very unfortunate there is no help. I hope more people call directly so there can hopefully be some feed back. I've contacted a lawyer, but nothing yet.

Having the same issue on my 2009 Anniversary edition Chrysler Grand Voyager (UK version of the T&C) it randomly stalls at low speed. Not battery, have done the fuel clean... tad worried it sounds like it will be expensive to fix but it's lethal. Stalled on holiday towing a caravan in France with 4 kids in the back!!!!

I am having the same sort of issue with my 2005 Chrysler t and c. I have taken it to Firestone and the Chrysler dealer here in phoenix and no one can find the problem. Any body have any idea how to fix this problem?

Read the above responses and you'll start to get a clue

A local mechanic replaced the both battery terminals. It is starting fine now and no more stalling. Kudos to the local mechanic! This makes sense since the cables were getting hot. Still having some bucking at low speeds, but I think that is a separate problem. Maybe its the EGR valve as stated above. I will have them check it out. Evidently, Chryslers will shut down if there is a bad connection.

Thank you all I am going to check out the EGR system. After, reading the above and watching the following video on how EGR system works, the reason some of you that replaced just the valve it could still be another component of the EGR system. Worth watching if you have time: https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=AVC8qBwQlRw

2009 Grand Caravan SXT 4.0L Replaced the positive battery terminal that was corroded really bad. Problem solved. Had the ignition switch replaced twice by the dealer that didn't solve my stalling issue. Please check your battery terminals for corrosion first.

Could be some trash sucking up on the pump/sock in the tank. When you stop or vehicle dies, there is no suction, and trash falls off. The, it may be near or far from the fuel intake, so it might clog again soon, or take a while. Had a Tornado that did that. Had to pull the tank and really get the trash all out.

The problem seems to be electrical. The engine shuts down and everything else runs. So it possibly could be a relay.

Great news everyone - three weeks ago they announced a recall on this so you should be getting letters in the post soon. Just had mine fixed for free - will add details later.

The issue is the Keyfob system - needs replacing.

Ian, I am unable to find any mention of this latest recall on the web... Did you receive a letter from Chrysler regarding your vehicle?

I called a dealer. They heard nothing about the recall.

Thanks, Terry... I'm thinking that Iain might have been referring the RO3 recall from last year. My car's had that one done but the problem persists. Following the TIPM lawsuit details on the web --http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/defect/results.cfm?action_number=DP14004&SearchType=QuickSearch&summary=true -- perhaps something will come of it but I'm not getting hopeful yet.

Much the same problem. 2009 Dodge Grand Caravan stalls while driving. It will start right up after pulling over. Since Nov '14 the van has stalled over 40 times (documented) and been into the dealer 5 times for a total of 42 days. It has cost us over $1500 and we were assured on 12/18/15 by the dealer the problem (after 2 new computers) was solved. We took the van to Chicago with the family this past weekend and it stalled 5 more times. We have a case # with Chrysler as well as having filed a report to the US Dot. I currently have another phone call into my customer service rep at Chrysler to see what they plan to do next. Yes, we did have the ignition key thing fixed several months ago. That was not it.

I just purchased a 2010 Town and Country 3 days ago and it has done this twice already. I called the local dealership and they said that Chrysler is aware of this problem with the ignition and are replacing it at no charge to the owner. Talk to your local dealership and get scheduled to get this fixed because they said it's going to be at least a couple weeks to get the parts. There is a national back order on this part because there are so many vehicles that this has happened to to fix. Hope this helps everyone out!

We purchased a 2010 T&C 3 and 1/2 months ago and this happened 3 times the most recent is yesterday while driving back from sick kids hospital.exactly like most of you are describing. Took to dealer and they said ABS module. I asked would this repair prevent any reoccurrence and they said they could not guarantee. I said I cant put my wife and kids into this situation and I called Chyrsler direct and have a case # 285-47284 and they said they have no similar cases on file. and no recall. I offered them to take it and test it and find the problem and loan me a car. They refused. I told them how can I sell this vehicle knowing it could kill someone. They said that is my choice. I said how many people have to die or get hurt before the HWY traffic act - forces Chrysler to step up and recall and or stop making this vehicle. I read a 23 rd old guy was killed because of this and it sicken me that all those times my wife and kids were driving on the HWY. It is obvious that they are getting out of the recall because nothing has remedies the problem therefore the problem is not isolated and there are many causes. HAZARD and Liability every time you pull out of your driveway.

I finally got the code reader at Autozone to diagnose MAP sensor......................................................fixed

I am glad I read these posts. I have a 2010 T&C and this just started within the last month. We have had the WIN module changed twice so I don't think it is that. I'm going to take it to my local mech and have him check out everything else listed above. I just got it back from the dealership and they said they think they identified it as a loose connection next to a thermostat housing - did not fix it. I'm not taking it back to a dealer because they never mentioned that this is a reoccurring issue that they had to be aware of...pissed. I'll repost when I learn more.

Update on my 2010 Town and Country. The Dealer offered help and they went to bat with Chrysler who said they will not extend any help !! The dealer Charged me $ 308 for the replacement of the EGR Valve not the ABS Module they suggested a week prior. If the part fails they will give me $ back and allow me to trade up to another kind of vehicle applying what I paid for the used 2010 3 months ago, Ill let you know if it happens again ! PS : I have updated my files with Transport Canada and spoke to my MP who is alos investigating and was the former President of CAW - Canadian Auto Workers Union.

Update by Scarpone: i did replace the battery - no money as it was under warranty. However, it was not the problem. Cables and connectors were fine. Ended up taking van to local mechanic. I mentioned my original concern to him of a module under the dash that was hanging loose and seemed to be shorting out on the underside metal section of the dash. He found a short in the wire to that module - soldered it and voila! Problem fixed for $110 of his time including changing out my all synthetic oil. So, $250 at dealer (they replaced a fuse, ran computer check, and misdiagnosed the problem saying it was the WIN/SKREEM and PCM), $150 to Auto Tech in Laredo, Tx for bench and vehicle testing my WIN/SKREEM, fuse box, keys, and PCM to find nothing wrong despite the "codes" the Chrysler dealer got (Thanks, Walt), and $110 to fix the problem that both the Chrysler mechanic and service rep told me it couldn't possibly be. So, basically it cost me $544 (including postage) and the loss of my vehicle for over three weeks to get a fuse replaced, a misdiagnosis from Chrysler, an all synthetic oil change, and a short found and soldered. Better than the $1950 Chrysler quoted me and would still not have fixed my vehicle. By the way, Walt from Auto Tech also sent me another PCM just in case, but I ended up sending it back to him so he didn't charge me. Postage both times was about $17 each (so, I included $34 in my total expenditures).

Clarification: my minivan is a 2005 Chrysler Town and Country, 3.8L. And, I had similar issues with a previous Chrysler T&C minivan and spent over $2500 with about a dozen trips including towing to dealer until it was finally fixed. A short in the dash, supposedly, was the eventual culprit - after spending over $2000 on things that evidently didn't need fixing. Hence, my unwillingness to fall into that trap again especially for a vehicle only worth $1500 on its best day.

I bought my 2008 Town and Country from CarMax last summer. I received a safe car notification, as there were no open recalls on the vehicle. It has stalled on me around 7 times, within the first 3 minutes of the drive. CarMax service has had it over 6 weeks, while I continue to drive my old but reliable Taurus. I have learned that the recall work for stalling was done the week before I bought the car, by a Chrysler dealership. CarMax, said it can't be diagnosed, and that it can't be replicated often enought to diagnose or even verify they have fixed anything. I took it back the Chrysler Dealership that did the recall work; they said they haven't replicated or diagnosed it yet; it's been 10 days. I feel I should be able to take it back to CarMax, and cancel my car loan for it. I spoke to a lawyer who just told me to keep him posted. He didn't even offer to car CarMax or Chrysler. I don't know what to do... Unbelievable.

I have a warranty but without being able to diagnose the problem, they can get preapproval to do the work. I asked them to check the fuel pump, and EGR valve, and they said, "We can't randomly change parts".

So as I mentioned in my earlier post they replaced my key system on recall (no I didn't receive any paperwork or letter... They did the change with no documentation - it stalled on them!!) and it hasn't happened again. It was regularly happening before about 2-3 times a month. I'm about 5 months in and no stalling. My registration plate is UK one DU59YMC and it is theChrysler Grand Voyager 30th anniversary (2009) model. In US you call it Town and Country but it's the same car.

CRYINGSLER- thank you for your response. That is so ridiculous how Chrysler keeps telling people there are no other reports on file. I had contacted them & spoke with a "supervisor" & got no where b/c they told me the same thing. I hope everyone on here-even if your vehicle is fixed-will contact Chrysler complaining. I even told the guy I talked to about this site & how others are on here complaining & how they needed to take a look at it to see everyone's issues. He stated they wouldn't do that & calls to Chrysler need to be made. This will certainly be the last Chrysler I ever buy.

2010 T&C - same problem. Intermittent stalls at 20-30 mph, appears cold weather correlation. Took to dealer, no codes. Left w them, would not replicate. Researched online and decided to have them replace egr valve although it checked out fine when they tested it. Runs like new but will have to drive it a while before i declare it fixed. Also had battery corrosion problem that i have to watch. Just thought id mention it. Was not corroded when stalls happened most recently. Good luck eveyone and THANK YOU ALL who have made suggestions!

I did have 3 computer codes all related to the EGR valve l... definitely the problem. Had this changed and no problem since!!

Thanks everyone! We have same issue to 2010 Dodge Caravan. I just wish I saw this a day or two ago. We just got our car back from dealer this morning after he kept it for a week trying to duplicate the issue. He could not get a code & it did not stall for him. Low and behold, tonight it stalled 2 times w/in 3 blocks of our home. This morning we paid $1100 on a full tune- up and other minor things hoping that would help (along with shocks, which it needed). We plan to email a link of this post to the dealer so he can read it all. I am hoping they will pay for part or all of the EGR valve replacement. All dealers should know about this dangerous issue!! We will call them bright and early Monday morning and hope for the best!

I still think we need a class action lawsuit against Chrsyler!!!' It makes me so angry that I read above that someone mentioned Chrysler recently said they have no cases on file of this. They are clearly covering this issue up and someone has already been killed over it? How many will it take before they accept responsibility? We couldn't risk my children's life so we felt we had no choice but to buy a new van (Odyssey---no problems at all). But my husband is now driving the old van so I am I very concerned for him and very angry! I am on board if anyone wants to file a law suit!!!!

My husband and I agree with a previous post that mentioned the stalls could be weather related with temps within 30-40 degrees and high humidity. Does anyone else see this correlation? It always happens going slower speeds and usually within 5 minutes of starting car for us as well. It is dangerous -- mine stalled in the left turn lane of a stop light -- thank God it was not a busy intersection and it stalled before I started turning. I do like the dealer we go to and I am optimistic he will help us out, but Chrsyler corp should get their act together.

Same here GraceA, EGR valve is what seems to be the issue. Not a difficult fix. "You tube" I'm sure you husband should be able to do it. Agreed that we should not have to, Chysler should be fixing this, but they are not. Until you fix this if you stall throw it in neutral and restart, instead of trying to pull over and restarting in a parked position. Hope this helps!!

Just had the FOB and ignition recall on my 2010 T&C and experiencing engine stopping and lost power steering while driving. Only the traction indicator illuminated and did not loose power to the radio. It took a few seconds to even realize the engine was stalled the first time it happened because of not totally loosing power. Has happened 3-4 times this month at low speeds, but it just happened going 70 Km. Since I have become familiar with the issue, I threw it into Neutral and restarted on the fly. I'm going to my local mechanic for a consult and then Chrysler. Based on this forum, I'm already dreading the experience.

Chrysler indicated EGR valve issues in diagnostics. Replaced it... Hopefully that's it. I'll update if not.

Wamo67, don't go to chysler they'll charge you an arm and a leg to do a diagnostic test and then the other arm and leg to fix it. Replace the EGR vavle. Part is approx 100, and labor free if you know someone. YouTube will talk you through 100% of it.

I am having the same issue except mine cuts out while driving at about 50-60 mph and automatically starts back up. I have a 99 town and country. This is really irritating.

Once EGR valve replaced I have had no further issues. Do yourself a favour... Even if you are not going to have Chrystler replace or clean it ($$$$), have them run a diagnostic. They have access to historical data that will verify the issue. EGR issue triggers an electronic shutdown of the engine. That's why the instrument pannel and radio are not interrupted during the event. Regarless of this not neccesarily being a manufacturers defect, I think Chrystler should revisit this regularly occuring issue... It's pretty unnerving loosing engine, power steering and power brakes at speed.

94 T&C 3.8 V6 intermittently dies while driving & won't restart. Towed to garage & problem went away after several days with no fix. Driven home and run several weeks and happened again. Towed to dealer this time and after sitting over a wk end problem went away. Dealer's BS explanation is they had to add 2 qts to the transmission. This was causing torque converter to go dry. Need I say this is going to happen again!

After several parts and almost 800 dollars later my brother has come to the conclusion the computer is going out. We changed fuel pump and filter, coil pack, spark plugs and wires, egr valve and sensors. The verdict is this vehicle sucks. I will never buy another chrysler. Dealership says they have no idea what is wrong with it. By the way my brother has been working on vehicles for 14 years so he knows his stuff. Good luck everyone hope you get yours fixed.

No stalls for 1 month after erg replacement. Documented with Chrysler! Good luck eveyone. ..

All. I had this problem daily for about two months with my 2010 T&C. I then started using 100% pure gas with no ethanol and it went away.

EGR was the problem for me. BUT Chrysler diagnostics did not pick this up. The problem is intermittent, so I told them not to charge me for a $115 diagnostic, and just replace the EGR valve. Symptoms: Intermittent stalls, at 20-30mph (neighborhood driving in the morning), when not accelerating. Very consistent when it would happen, about 3-4 minutes from home, but not every day.

my van just started everything again after nothing for about 5 mths. We've replaced EGR valve. 3 times in last 2 weeks van won't start & last week it stalled while I was driving. Finally, this morning after having my 2 youngest children in the van ready to go-it wouldn't start & we were able to get it recorded. it started about the 10th time of trying. Contacting dealer today to see if they'll take a look at the video. I've contacted Chrysler in the past, but may do so again this week.

Brandi have you had the L25 recall done? The ignition module and new key fobs? That fixed my non starting issue 2 weeks ago. I am now getting more of the slow start low speed stalls, and will have egr looked at. 2009 T&C.

Julie-my cousin told me about that recall. our dealership said our car wasn't affected by it, but my cousin has the identical vehicle we do to the color & said that wasn't true. apparently we need to check w/ them again about it. We never received anything via mail regarding a recall. I have also contacted Chrysler the end of last year & they never mentioned it. Thank you!

http://www.aboutlawsuits.com/chrysler-minivan-recall-16643/

I posted about the 2008 T & C 2 months ago. Although the Chrsyler dealership was not able to replicate with the 10 days they had, they were willing to replace the EGR valve, (no warranty coverage) per the comments on this blog. So far, the van has been running smoothly; it's been 2 months. My fingers are crossed, as I see from other posts that the problem may still return.

Since I've written a complaint about my 1996TC shutting down while driving leaving me suddenly with no power steering or power brake (very dangerous at highway speeds), I have received many dozens of responses from owners with models as late as 2012 that have similar shut down problems. I would like to address two things: 1: For Chrysler to continually deny this problem presents ia Major question of their integraty towards their customers. They think more of protecting their image than the safety of customers, and 2: The design by their engineers to have the engine shut down when certain conditions are met without regard to driver safety in order to protect the engine rather than the driver. Is no less than criminal. I am no longer a Chrysler customer!

completely agree. I would love to get rid of my van. After months of no issues, it started again a few weeks ago. at least 6 times in 2 weeks. I will never buy another Chrysler product. I've tried to contact a lawyer, but no help.

What we did, after no help from Chrysler and it not shutting off (stalling), We took apart the dashboard and removed the gauge cluster. Apparently the connections on the back of the motherboard are famous for shaking loose. The solder points look kind of like a bullseye when they are bad. We took a solder iron and touched all the points to be sure we didn't miss anything and reinstalled it. 6 months and the problem hasn't shown up... Used to happen frequently, even multiple times a day. It seems that when the computer sensed something wrong it determined that the van was being stolen and would shut the engine down.

I could only wish my van would get stolen! Of course, that would never happen b/c even car thieves know better...

I have a 2005 TC, and it has a different stall….only stalls if you fill up the gas tank. As long as you remember to only fill a little past 3/4, it does fine. I got it recently from a friend. She said i could take it to a dealer and they would fix it for free, but i can find no mention of it anywhere……anybody?...

Rob, we had this same problem for about 1.5 years on our 2005 T&C at 130k and recently got a letter from Chrysler with a warranty extension on the fuel tank that specifically addresses this problem. They will replace it for free if you have these symptoms. They tried very hard to tell us that they still need to do their diagnostics for $110 but we declined. Now they are having problems getting a replacement tank. I may simply do this at another repair place and get reimbursed. The following is blatently copied from another thread (thank you Vin-J). "The problem is the vapor/liquid separator valve located at the top of the fuel tank. The valve is designed to prevent liquid fuel from entering the charcoal canister/emissions system. When the valve fails, liquid gas can enter the line and fill the charcoal canister. After refueling the PCM on the vehicle detects a change in fuel level. Then, when the engine meets certain temperature and driving criteria, the PCM issues a purge command to the charcoal canister to remove the stored gas vapors. It’s at that point that all the liquid gas in the line gets sucked into the charcoal canister. The PCM expects to see gas vapors entering the intake manifold and it is prepared to adjust air/fuel mixtures to compensate. However, it is not prepared to see liquid gas coming into the intake. That’s what causes the engine to stall."

As we speak I have my wife's 2009 town and country taken apart. This piece of shit is going to get someone killed. They know about this problem. I have changed plugs and wires 5 times. No power and it shutters. Kept telling me it was a clogged cat. That's bullshit . I'm pretty sure its egr valve. They need a recall!!!!! This isn't safe

I was having the same old issue with my 2013 Town & Country (the stalling, the sputtering, etc) After spending a substantial amount of $ and time at the dealer last week, they were unable to figure out what was wrong since, because by the time I got it to the dealer with the car, the check engine light had turned off. I was told they didn't know where to begin to look for the problem, so did a lot of "tuning up" in hopes it would clean things up After I almost got into an accident, I dropped it off again this morning, and even with the check engine light on, they are telling me they don't know what is wrong with it. I appreciate everyone's input on the EGR valve, which I will bring up to them when (I'm sure) they call tomorrow and let me know there is NOTHING wrong with the car. So frustrating!

I have a 2005 town and country. I ended up replacing my battery cabels alternator, and egr valve. I finally got an engine light when they fixed it. I now and still get a signal when I stop. Butvit does not die anymore. thanks

2008 3.8L Town and Country died while driving in rain at 20 - 30mph. Engine would try to crank but not catch. CEL and Throttle Control Module light came on after trying to restart. Already had the ignition recall done which seemed to fix the problem of the VAN not starting randomly.

Problem solved for me! Thanks to all for the input on this issue, it was invaluable to me. 2001 Chrysler T&C 3.8L Problem- engine shuts off suddenly- no sputtering, stalling etc, just like key got turned off- at entirely random times while driving, no discern-able pattern although typically within 500 mi of last issue Solution- replaced PCM, a very easy fix for even a basic DIY, can be R&R'd without removing battery, there is a hidden bolt behind headlight to be aware of, easy to get to if you take out three screws that hold the headlight in. Part is $225 at Carcomputerexchange.com Cheaper than than having it reflashed or replaced at dealer. Before this I tried in order: Checked battery and connections Replaced EGR valve, very easy to replace though I don't see how this could cause this issue. About $70 for part Replaced crankshaft sensor, cheap but a little harder to replace. This could cause this issue, but it should show a P code if so. About $25 for part. Note there are two versions for this year, get the correct one. If the PCM hadn't fixed it, my next steps were to get the wiring harness checked, then dash module, though I would likely have brought it into mechanic for that. Coincidentally had the ignition coil fail during this time, again easy to replace, but I don' t think it was related.

I'm glad some people are stating their problems are fixed....my van-just yesterday wouldn't start...it's so random. after about the 10th try...it started. The problem to me is that Chrysler s/b fixing these issues...we shouldn't have to spend our time, money or stress trying to figure this out. IT's ridiculous & I will NEVER buy another Chrysler again. Still want to get rid of ours, but we can't put our issues on someone else. so disappointed in this company.

I'm no pro mechanic, but I'm pretty persistent tracking down problems, and it's forums like this that are invaluable. I assume you've had it into the dealer or shop and they can't find any clear problem. If you haven't tried replacing the computer, it's a relatively easy and cheap DIY job, you or anyone handy with a wrench can do it. A bad computer can cause all sorts of issues, and since it's what stores those codes the mechanics are so addicted to, it won't show a fault in itself. No guarantees, a lot of things can cause the issue you have, but it's an avenue to look it A $225 part, about what the dealer would charge just to diagnose it, maybe improperly. My T&C has had a number of weird annoying issues, runs great in between the problems. If I wasn't a DIY guy I probably would've given up long ago, it would have been a fortune for the dealer to fix, but it's got well over 200K miles on it now so I guess it's gravy from here. Good luck with yours. Also, the commonly referred to EGR valve could cause your problem, again a very easy DIY job for a well under $100 part.

yes, my husband has already replaced the EGR valve. it's been to 2 different dealerships for weeks...they can never "duplicate" the issue. we've recorded it happening-no one wants to view it. I've contacted Chrysler directly....talked to a "manager"...who said no one has complained...reading all this-that's a lie. seems to just be a lot of liars on their end & no willingness to even look at this forum to read all the people who have had very similar issues.

My wife's 2006 T&C gave me the code P0404. So I replaced the EGR about $75 for the part. Then the gas pedal started sticking so I cleaned out the throttle box. But the damn thing died on me twice driving to and from my sons baseball game. Thank god no accident. I know it's not the EGR since I just replaced it so I would love a solution. Thanks.

I took my 2008 in after it kept on stalling while driving. Like many others it would stall mostly before 30mph. I took it into the dealer two months ago and they preformed the recall fix on the ignition switch and It seemed fixed! Yesterday I was going 50 mph on a two lane road when it stalled! I'm so thankful for this forum because I would not have known what to do so quickly to turn it back on. I had my four kids, one a newborn with me! We are so so done with this van!!!!

Does anyone know where we can file formal complaints that they cannot deny?!

I posted my issue but wanted to update since my problem was different from others. The dealer found out the fuel pump died completely. They installed a new fuel pump for around $900 parts and labor. Van has been working fine for 3 weeks. I found out the fuel pump and filter is one unit and it is in the fuel tank. You have to drop the tank to replace it. Those of you that may be having problems with random stalling may want to have your fuel pump replaced. Posted Before: 2008 3.8L Town and Country died while driving in rain at 20 - 30mph. Engine would try to crank but not catch. CEL and Throttle Control Module light came on after trying to restart. Already had the ignition recall done which seemed to fix the problem of the VAN not starting randomly.

My 2008 T&C only does it, shuts down when stopped and jerks at times when driving, when we have the A/C on. We live in WI so most of the time it is not an issue. I have found that if I need to stop I put one foot on the break and then continue to lightly press on the gas pedal and it does not stall then. My dad is also a mechanic, he has been driving it when it has happened as well but could never get any codes to come up. We have spent about 500.00 so far in trying to figure things out. I am going to mention the EGR valve to him and see if this will hopefully be a fix!

This happened to me today. We could have been killed seconds before we were on a highway going 70. Is there a lawsuit yet? Anything recalled?

My 2004 T&C usually stall when AC turned on, but it do not stall when the AC turnned off, The engine restarted after 15 minutes ??? What is your opininon

I'm not getting any engine codes for egr valve! No codes at all! Our 08 t&c stalled on us at a red light. Walked to local parts supply for a battery. Next day felt hesadent to start. Took to local garage had alternator, battery, starter all tested all read fine. Tonight a/c also on right when we got home I put in reverse to park and shit off. Started up but hesadent again. Sick of this!!! Any ideas since I'm not getting codes for the egr valve???

I have a 2009 T&C Limited, 65000 miles, purchased from Carmax in 2012. Same problem, been in and out of the dealership for 1.5 years. Under warranty, but we have paid well over $2000 trying to fix the problem. Flushed fuel lines, replaced ignition, computer chips, four batteries, alternators, etc. Dealership says they "can't duplicate the problem" half the time and send it back to me. I was nearly in a head on collision with my 8 and 5 year old boys when taking a left in a busy intersection. Are there any ideas on where to go next? How do you complain to Chrysler? HELP!! So tired of stressing and having my heart drop every time an alert sounds.

I have a 2010 TC Touring and it is the same story as most of the people on here. "EGR looks good and we cannot replicate the issue. We drove it for 20 minutes" The problem here is that it happens randomly, and has happened twice in the last 2 months. But because there is no "code" they basically tell you they understand your concern or driving an unsafe vehicle, but they cannot replace parts based on a guess. Scary stuff. Looking into lemon laws, documenting conversations with Chrysler in the event of liability suits. Its unfortunate that the best option appears to be trying to pull the wool over a dealerships eyes and taking a financial hit, but I cannot sell this thing directly to someone else knowing what may happen.

I have a 2010 T&C with 87k miles and it stalls only within the first few minutes of driving. I think it started sometime AFTER they did the ignition recall work a year ago. I'm still a little weary about that. Anyway, sometimes it stalls while moving at 20-30mph after I take my foot slightly off the gas, but other times it just stalls while moving at a steady speed; only stalls when cold. It doesn't happen after the car has warmed up or have been driving for awhile. I watched the tachometer while driving. It appears to drop pretty low (close to 0) for those times when it tries to stall but doesn't. It doesn't do that after its warmed up; tach stays near or above 1. I'm wondering if the shifting of the transmission has anything to do with this. I took it to Chrysler and left it there for a week. Same old story. They couldn't replicate the stall but charged me for the time anyway. Then I went to a trustworthy mechanic for a tuneup (new plugs, intake manifold cleaning). It runs better but it still stalls after all that work. After reading these posts, my next step is to get the battery tested and the EGR valve replaced....we'll see....

Adding just one more thing to my post above this one. I'll tell you this: I've purchased and leased several Chryslers over the years and after this crappy non-resolution and big $$$ spent at their service center (for this problem and several others), this is the last straw for me. I'm never going to get another Chrysler again.

All the same issues with my 2008 T&C...replaced the EGR valve, nothing. Going to try the MAP sensor next. Mine stalls after the car is warmed up, not right away, and only when my foot is on the brake, if I can avoid putting my foot on the brake it does not stall, although I do have to put in neutral most times when at a stop light. Drove to Florida 3 times like this, terrifying!!!! Have to go again in a month so I really need this resolved!! My mechanic also charged over $200 to clean the throttle, which slowed it down for a couple of weeks so my son did it again and nothing. Could it possibly be a transmission problem, it feels like the car is not downshifting as it should and the stalling is like what happens when you drive a manual transmission and do not clutch properly

Lisa, your issue seems different from mine. My problem was resolved by replacing the EGR after all. So, based on this experience, I suggest finding a local mechanic who is willing to research this with you. I got nothing like that when I went to Chrysler service. The local guy tried harder and was willing to experiment. He "borrowed" an EGR valve and installed it. If it didn't work, he was going to take it out (those things run $200 and up).

I have a 2010 with 115,000 and it would stall mostly when we where going under 25 and foot not on the gas pedal and it would show no warning lights. All I had to do was turn car off and it would restart and run fine until the next time it happened. It would happen on average once a week. Had it in to dealer multiple times with no diagnosis. This went on for months. Finally the stabilizer light and check engine light came on and the dealer was able to diagnosis that it was the EGR valve. It is being fixed as I write this.

I have a 97 T&C that I obtained from my uncle. He had an instrument cluster from the junk yard as the gauges were acting up (fuel level showing wrong etc.) in it. I installed the new cluster then being an electronics guy I went "Hmmm" and pulled the old one apart. Sure enough, the solder joints at the connector were bad. I then pulled the set out that I had just installed and it had the same problem. My uncle had a spare cluster for his 03 van and it too had bad solder joints. This is a common problem on these things and will cause the engine to not start or randomly just shut down. The computer loses communication with the cluster and then just shuts the engine down. Anyone with a van that is older than a few years I STRONGLY recommend pulling the cluster out and re-soldering the cable connection pins as a preventative measure! Of course stalling out at a light is more likely the egr.

I have a 97 T&C that I obtained from my uncle. He had an instrument cluster from the junk yard as the gauges were acting up (fuel level showing wrong etc.) in it. I installed the new cluster then, being an electronics guy, I when "Hmmm" and pulled the old one apart. Sure enough, the solder joints at the connector were bad. I then pulled the set out that I had just installed and it had the same problem. My uncle had a spare cluster for his 03 van and it too had bad solder joints. This is a common problem on these things and will cause the engine to not start or randomly just shut down. The computer loses communication with the cluster and then just shuts the engine down. Anyone with a van that is older than a few years I STRONGLY recommend pulling the cluster out and re-soldering the cable connection pins as a preventative measure! Of course stalling out at a light is more likely the egr.

I have been so frustrated with my 2010 Chrysler Town and Country as it has been stalling for the past year. I took it in for the recall twice and it still stalled. After reading all the comments on this page my husband and I decided to replace the EGR valve as a last resort. It cost 500 bucks, but it worked! Well worth the money! Why Chrysler doesn't do another recall and replace the EGR valves is beyond me!

change EGR valve problem solved on my 2008 town and country very easy to change

Appreciate everyone's comments about the EGR valve. My 2010 Town & Country death trap (that I've owned for 40 days and had it die twice while driving) is currently at the dealership and they refuse to acknowledge the EGR valve with a very firm NO - since their codes aren't indicating it and they say they "can't" use the internet. I told them to keep it until they find the problem. If they can't find the problem they can diagnose it for free forever and I'll make my car payment and laugh and laugh (and cry). I mentioned that I'll get legal help if they try to give it back without finding the problem. He got very defensive. About as defensive as I got when they said they couldn't find the problem. Understandably, my mechanic boyfriend says "it shouldn't be the EGR valve", but at least he'll change it without the permission from the Code Gods.

Personally, I don't think it's the EGR valve. My husband changed ours. Worked for a few months, but this van stops while driving or just won't start whenever it feels like it. There were some recalls on the ignition, but our van has not been included in that. my dad is a mechanic too & said the other day it's probably more of an electronic issue & who knows when or if they could ever figure that one out. I think a law suit against Chrysler is exactly what is going to end up happening if someone gets hurt over the vehicle just stopping while being driven. I hope no one gets hurt. We've wanted to get rid of ours, but just can't seem to be ok w/ putting this issue on another family. I will never buy another Chrysler again.

I understand the EGR valve maybe/maybe not issue, but will probably still change it since I have the resource and it's not terribly expensive. While the dealership tech has mine and is driving it around, I fear the odd circumstances of the weather (being slightly warmer) could also interfere with their inability to duplicate the problem. If it ends up that I get a different car and they take it back - the moral dilemma of knowing it's still out there is rather sickening. I was so happy with my 2003 T&C... And now this. I'm glad to have found this discussion forum and will keep reading and posting since it seems all we have is ourselves... Maybe it will help in the future lawsuit.

I just had the EGR replaced in my 2009 T&C today. 172,000 miles, has been stalling since May of this year. Stalls were only at low speeds, my gas mileage was affected (17 vs 22) and I could manipulate when it would stall by letting the van coast. 9 miles of driving today after the replacement tells me this was the problem! No lurching, no stalling, very soft and easy driving again. This problem does not throw a code!!! In a 3.8 the cost for replacement should be around $250, for a 4.0 the cost was $380. I am in Michigan.

Agreed, the no-code throwing of this issue has caused interesting arguments with the tech. He said it CAN NOT be the EGR because there is no code for it. But he also can't find anything wrong related to the codes it is throwing. I asked him where the logic was in that multiple times. So happy for your results! (pic from the first stall, since then multiple listings of "can b bus" code).

I have a 2008 T&C 4.0. Replacing the EGR fixed the stalling and lurching. An individual mechanic finally pulled a code after years of fighting with Chrysler. However, they wanted too much to replace it. Replace it yourself if you can. I got the mopar replacement from Rock auto for about $100. It is very easy to replace. If your still having stalling/starting problems, you probably have a bad connection on the battery. My mechanic cut the original positive terminal completely off and soldered a new terminal on. No problems since!

Thanks to the information on this forum, I replaced the EGR valve on my 2010 T & C that I just purchased. It died on me four times after I bought it. I had the EGR replaced and it has apparently fixed the problem. No stalling for three weeks so far.

Our 2009 Town & Country Chrysler 2009 van started to kill AFTER replacing the FOB under warranty. It would kill after about 2 miles down the road. Never had problems until we replaced FOB with new ignition . It happened 6 more times, and the last time I was approaching the railroad tracks, with a train coming, and I barely got van started again to roll over the track before the arm came down. THIS MUST BE REPORTED AND FIXED! The power door stopped working about 2 months prior, along with sensor issues on tires. Is this computer related?

2010 Grand Caravan SXT continually stalls when I take my foot off the gas to slow down to turn or prepare to stop. Won't stall if I'm breaking or revving. I put it in neutral and turn the key to restart it to avoid pulling over. Extremely nervous with the kids and pregnant wife over railroad tracks and turning left off the highway. I'm a mess - last Chrysler product I ever buy.

SAME issue here 2010 Town and Country it has happened 3 time now driving and all of sudden feel the steering wheel sight and then traction light on and then realize van is off have to put in to park and turn over again and starts. But yes scary as never know when going to happen mine has been slow speeds and yes auto mechanic said same stuff can not tell us what the issue is since nothing shows when they scan it and they had for almost 2 weeks never stalled or did anything when they had it then the 3rd time was on our drive home last night with it.

Willmar10 this sounds like egr valve if you are at slow speeds. Doesn't always throw a code.

Had the EGR valve changed, still stalls about 3 times per day, while driving, while stopping. Shakes and a belt squeals really bad before stalling. Driving from Florida to NJ, started shaking to the point that I thought I had a flat tire, found a mechanic, had the ignition coil replaced. Worked great, no shaking, no stalling for 3 whole days!!! Now worse than ever. Yesterday actually stalled while in reverse backing out of driveway. Not a day goes by with out it stalling, and I had the EGR replaced. Willing to do almost anything at this point being I do travel from NJ to Florida every few months, but don't want to pay for repairs that are not needed

So I had this same problem with my 2009 Dodge Caravan with a 4.0l engine (110,000 miles). After over a year of chasing down the problem I finally fixed it. What was happening was that the check engine light would occasionally come on (like once a week or every second weeks or so). It would throw a P404 code (egr valve error). Also, (and what was much more worrying) the van would suddenly stall out of the blue. It would seem to happen mostly at slow speeds, but my wife was not very impressed when she would lose power steering and brakes with our 3 kids in the van. What I ended up trying (that didn't work): - Cleaned up the battery posts - Replaced the battery (twice) - Replaced the ignition switch (on recall) - Replaced the EGR valve (twice) - Replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor - Inspected the wiring from the EGR valve to the PCM - Replaced the PCM (computer) - Installed a new ground cable from the battery to the transmission - Changed out the relays the fuses in the fuse box NONE OF THE ABOVE WORKED! What finally worked: - Replaced the TIPM (the fuse box)

Welp! Let me add in... I have a 2013 Town and Country! Today out of no where, the stirring locked up, the breaks went out and the car stalled then shut down!!! I took it to my Chrysler dealership and the diagnostic read everything was fine!!!! I called him back to mention all that I read here. He said that even with my extended warranty......and if they went in and for sure found a issue EGR (ect) that unless the diagnostic flippen computer gave the code.... the problem would NOT be covered under warranty!!! So apparently the computer holds the power. Such bullshit.

It's been four months of refusal to drive the 2010 T&C I bought in November 2016. After 3 times of the problem (just as described above) a "power steering" fix and software upgrade did NOT fix as a couple days later the problem happened again, but included massive shuddering when trying to start it back up again. When I suggested, numerous times to look here and about the ERG they laughed and scoffed. So now I'm in dead-mans land waiting for a car I want to do an equity trade with the dealer or write a letter to the owners basically begging to be let out of my contract. I've been patient but only because I have a back-up rig and find the whole scenario of the Town & Country death-trap mind boggling. I have enough efforts on my part and the dealership to now file a claim with Chrysler. I believe this blog itself could prove to be useful in court if a class action lawsuit is to happen one day.

Solution!! Hey folks. I can't guarantee anything here, but this seems to have solved the issue for us. We had the same issues for months...driving at 20-40 miles an hour and all of the sudden the vehicle would shut off. No warning, just the traction light coming on and then all of the sudden you have no power. Totally sporadic...would drive for days, miles at a time, and nothing. Then, it would happen 3 times in 10 miles. Again, no consistency. After taking it to three different shops, a friend at our church recommended we talk to his mechanic, and this gentleman suggested we replace: 1) the crank shaft sensor 2) the cam shaft senso 3) the ERG valve. He also checked the fuse box, just to make sure everything was tightly plugged in. We bought all of these parts at Advance Auto and he replaced it himself, all for less than $300. This was a couple of months ago, and it has not happened since!! Praise the Lord! We have had a little bit of an issue with it stalling out at a parked position and occasionally not starting, but we think this may be an unrelated throttle sensor issue and anti-theft system issue, respectively. However, the main issue of turning off in the middle of the road while driving seems to be fixed. I hope it works for you!

That is great news Guru52MW!! Thank you for posting for all of us. Gives some hope to what seems like a hopeless situation.

I have a 2006 Chrysler Town and Country 3.3L. My engine stops always when the gas pedal is left to idle. If I push the gas pedal a little bit down the engine runs but as soon as I release the gas pedal the engine stops! On the other hand if I push the gas pedal so that the RPM is about 3000 then the engine speed fluctuates down and up and does not let the RPM go normally up. What could cause these problems? I have cleaned the Idle Control Valve and checked the Idle Position Sensor. They have no problem but I get the code P0508 which means that the Idle Control circuit is low or poor. How this problem can be solved? Does anyone know? Thanks

my 2010 stalls as well, all the time to my wife and kids. no one can fix it so I will hit a tree, problem solved

WOW! I am looking into a class action lawsuite if anyone wants to join in please let me know! This has been going on for about 9 mths. Been in the shop about 4 times. Still today it is in the shop and they cant figure out what is wrong with it. Stalls 4 times on me everyday on my 4-5 mile trip taking kids to school and sitter then to work. all in the same city. This is just ridiculous and VERY dangerous!!! Ive had to rent cars to drive because we dont have an extra. My husband is a firefighter and works 24-48 shifts along with going to medic school so we cant share 1 car. impossible.

Opening my case today: Chrysler’s Customer Service number is 800-992-1997 if you have not called about your vehicle issues, call them and get a case number.

I called last year & got no where. I'm certainly interested in joining anything that will get this issue fixed. If they'll listen-i'm happy to call again.

So I had posted that replacing the TIPM fixed the problem. It seemed to go away for a while, but after a month or so the problem came back.... Back to the drawing board.... :(

Robert, I'm not surprised by any bad news regarding this problem.. I couldn't even get my dealership to look at the EGR valve or TIPM even though there have been many suggestions to do so. I'm going to post this link as well for reference, since this seems like a good forum to save some info about it: http://repairpal.com/engine-keeps-shutting-off-on-me-while- driving-seems-to-be-common-on-chryslers-658 - See more at: http://www.aboutlawsuits.com/chrysler-minivan- recall-16643/comment-page-1/#comments

All, while I just sold my 09 T&C and bought a Mazda CX-9, I still follow this. IF your van is stalling at slow speeds while your foot is on the gas, but won't stall if your foot is off the gas, you most likely need to replace the EGR valve. Any mechanic can do this. In a 3.8 L it will be about $250, while in a 4.0 L it will be closer to $400. The bad valve will probably not throw a code! If you suspect this just get it done!

Also, EGR valves are a part that gets build up of carbon on it, or just wears out. This is nothing that will be a recall or a class action suit - notice none of these vans are close to new and the van at the start of the thread was 17 (much too old to invest any time or money in). If your van is still under warranty and the dealership won't fix it, call the 800 number in the back of the owners manual and I bet they will help you cover it. An EGR valve is a very cheap fix, but is only the problem if the conditions are what I listed above. Shuddering, not starting or shaking are other problems.

We've replaced the EGR valve & the van still does the same things it did before.

Brandi did your ignition ever get recalled? I don't know why it would not have been included. Another interesting thing I realized, many listed here seem to be 08-10 models. Chrysler was in dire straights at that time. Certainly no money for design. My husband was laid off from Chrysler in 08 and took a buyout in 09 when they filed for bankruptcy. If the problem is not the EGR, it could be the cam shaft positioning sensor, which is about $250 to fix (not at the dealer). I am very grateful I was able to get my 09 running perfect and then sell it. Once I had the EGR changed (never showed a code for it) it instantly ran better, had better gas mileage and never stuttered or stalled.

no, it wasn't on the recall list which I called Chrysler directly to discuss & advise them that it doesn't make sense that it wasn't. Our van ran "perfect" for a period of time after the EGR valve replacement, but then started up again. It's not as bad as what some people have explained, but it still happens & never know when it's going to happen. We would love to get rid of it, but we don't feel comfortable giving the issue to someone else even though it's been ok for a few months.

We finally replaced a wire harness in the engine that was causing the car to short and stall. It has not duplicated the problem in 3 months.

Add me to the list of people having the same issues with the traction light coming on, and the steering wheel and brakes not working. Thinking about taking this to the media to finally get noticed.

Also this is possible: IF your engine shutdown or stalling while your foot is off the gas, the problem might be in so said "Idle Air Control Valve" or "Throttle Position Sensor". Both of them are located on the throttle and are easy to be opened and cleaned or to be replaced. Here is a video that shows how to clean or replace them: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Om0fSVFFK4g

my 2000 Town and Country that I've had for 14 yr now @ 154,000 miles is dying while driving. It only does this after I've been driving it several minutes @ any speed. I broke down several times in the last 2 weeks always lucky that I was able to pull over out of the way. Tonight however it died @ a busy intersection and I was the victim of another driver with severe road rage that was inconvenienced for a few minutes waiting to go around me. It was awful. I have replaced crank sensor, fuel filter and pump, coil pack, thermostat, spark plugs and wires. Next is going to be the EGR valve ONLY because its been a good vehichle til now. If EGR (final attempt) doesn't work, it is sadly time to scrap it. I can't believe how awful these last 2 weeks have been. Tonight was so bad that I wish I had read all this first, or I definately wouldn't have been out there taking the risk.

Getting the EGR valve replaced did the trick for mine! Hoping it works for you as well. Since then, however, my van was totalled after someone ran a stop sign while going highway speed! Needless to say, we went with an Enclave this time! Good luck in getting this resolved.

I joined this conversation about 6 months ago regarding my 2010 T&C "death trap"... as I referred to it, while exploring ideas with the Chrysler car dealership I had just purchased it from. Finally got them to take it back on trade and let's just say we all lost money on it. Their service department couldn't fix it - spent 3 weeks and comped a $700 power steering "fix" (changed nothing, still died randomly) and the whole time refused to consider the EGR valve due to no code being thrown. So it sat out front of my place undriven for almost 4 months until we agreed on a trade. It's off to the wholesalers now and I can finally sleep again... I opened a claim with Chrysler, which essentially accomplished nothing (rumor is they don't care due to the age of the problem) - but I'm putting it out there that if anyone did take this issue to a media or lawsuit level I would gladly join the effort. Thank you all for your stories and support, this blog has been a saving grace to my sanity.

EP87, Thank you for your reply. Shame after everything, you got hit. UPDATE to my original post 3 weeks ago. I decided to replace the EGR plus the camshaft sensor @ the same time after watching a lot of youtube videos. My experienced mechanic said the old EGR was very dirty, but still refuses to believe it would shut it down. however he believes the camshaft sensor was the real culprit. No codes thrown. He works @ a shop, and does work on the side (under the hat) So, I will never know which sensor was causing the stalling without warning. He drove it for 2 hours and said it's runs perfect. A friend of mine is going to drive it for a few days before I'm brave enough to get back behind the wheel. I broke down each and every time I drove it, so we will know soon. Will report back in a few days.

* Camshaft position sensor was gunked up with oil

My 2012 Town and Country stalled out on me today. I had 2 of my 3 kids in the car and I almost got rear ended. I was shaking. When I turned the car off it restarted fine and I was able to drive the mile home. It is sitting in my driveway and I am scared to drive it. We could have been killed.

I have this posted above but if your van stalls while you are under 40 mph and you are not accelerating the problem is most likely your EGR valve. This is a common part to wear out and will never cause a recall. Go to a good local mechanic, request it to be replaced. Most vans the bill will be around $250. A 4.0 L will be more. Do not go to the dealer for non warranty repairs. It will always be double the cost if you do. If you have stalling happening under other conditions the cam shaft positioning sensor could be bad. If you are driving and your van stalls, shift into neutral, restart and then go back to drive. You can do this fast and people behind you will barely notice. A bad EGR may not throw a code (mine did not) and it will affect your gas mileage. Mine increased after I had the valve replaced and my van drove much better.

Hi guys I am also having problems with my 2009 Chrysler T&C anniversary edition. I have called Chrysler, the place I bought it from and they don't want to help. I have replaced egr valve, battery terminals, battery itself, starter. I have given up and will be trading this car in since I'm still making payments on it. But if it helps you this is what i have done with the 3 almost 4 years of having this POS. Put it neutral and restart most if the time it works. If I can see or tell the rpm dropping I stomp on the gas and it keeps it from dying. Of course sometimes that is not possible like when coming to a stop or turning. I can usually tell when its going to stall the car feels heavier but again that is not all the time. And I forgot yes I did get the key fob replaced, I called Chrysler told them it was still stalling but they said I would have to pay out of pocket if they could not trace it back to a new faulty key fob. PLEASE DO YOURSELF A FAVOR DO NOT BUY A CHRYSLER. I think this issue is why the new minivan is the Pacifica. I just don't feel safe with my family in the car and Chrysler does not care. I believe they have a minimum number of DEATHS or accidents before they can start looking into a recall. I just don't want to be one if those or any of you guys. Be safe.

Ok at the moment I can not afford a new van. So we tried a fuel injection service and I can tell some difference in my rpm the way the car drives etc. If it stalls again I will post about it. I hope this works for us and I hope it works for anyone else that wants to try it and has to keep the van.

Everyone with this issue needs to file a complaint with the National Highway Traffic Safety Adminstration at the link below. The NHTSA will investigate consumer complaints and if determined unsafe will require the manufacturer to fix the problem. Since Chrysler will not issue a recall this is a good way to go around them! I filed my complaint today. https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/?

Thank you!! will do!

I am just starting this adventure. Over the past year, my 2010 T&C has stalled several times on locale roads at between 20 & 30 miles/hour. Today, I was in the fast lane on a Route 80 when traffic went down to 20 miles/hour. The car stalled. It was a very dangerous situation. I also have an issue with starting the car sometimes. If the wheels are not straight when I park, I sometimes am unable to start the car to begin with. Any idea what to do first, I have very limited funds.

This sounds exactly like a bad egr valve. Should be $250 fix at local shop. Do not go to the dealer. The egr valve is a part that wears out, there will never be a recall on this. It's just maintenance. Good luck!

Hey guys. So I did the fuel injection service so far so good I can tell it wants to die but it hasn't yet. Also I forgot to mention on my previous post I was getting a p0404 (egr) error code that kept turning on and off every time I got gas. So today we are replacing the egr valve and I will see if that in combination of the fuel injection service makes a difference. Now I'm no Einstein but whoever came up with the idea to recirculate dirty anything back into the cars system was not thinking clearly. So our guess right now is that the egr valve just makes the car dirty faster once it gets too dirty it will stall the car. Again this is only my guess. But we are going to take out the current get valve and clean it got next time and see if it can be reused again. There are lots of videos that show you how to take them out replace them or clean them. I got a quote from a mom and pop shop and it was 328 dollars. I bought a new part for 102 dollars from advance with a percent off coupon. And apparently is not just the minivans with this issue, I have seen videos of trucks with the stalling problem as well. Will post again and let you guys know how this goes. Hope this helps anybody that wants to try it.

2008 Grand Caravan 3.3L/V6 118K miles - Currently intermittent stalling at low speed, hesitation/skipping while driving. Read most everything on here so far. First code kicked out Map sensor. So far by myself, I replaced PCV valve, Map Sensor, EGR, Air Filter and cleaned throttle body. Cleared codes along the way and newer code kicked out O2 sensor. Have one in hand but cant get old one to budge. Still stalling/skipping and getting worse. So there are 3 other things I'm looking at: 1) Battery terminal connections (seems like a cheap and easy thing to try), 2) Throttle position sensor, and 3) camshaft position sensor. Even if I replace all of these, Im still only out like 200 bux total for everything. But Im running out of ideas. Gotta get it fixed. Dangerous! BTW, plugs and wires replaced within a year, so doubtful its that.

Did ALL of the same...the only fix ended up being a re-built transmission at the tune of $3500...stopped the stalling at stops but still occasionally stalls while driving 30-40 mph...I just put in neutral while driving and turn the ignition back on and put back in drive and don't really miss a beat. After that replaced most of the cooling system now just want to get rid of it but invested over $5k in the last 6 months so have to run it into the ground at this point.

2008 Grand Caravan 3.3L/V6 118K miles - Currently intermittent stalling at low speed, hesitation/skipping while driving. Read most everything on here so far. First code kicked out Map sensor. So far by myself, I replaced PCV valve, Map Sensor, EGR, Air Filter and cleaned throttle body. Cleared codes along the way and newer code kicked out O2 sensor. Have one in hand but cant get old one to budge. Still stalling/skipping and getting worse. So there are 3 other things I'm looking at: 1) Battery terminal connections (seems like a cheap and easy thing to try), 2) Throttle position sensor, and 3) camshaft position sensor. Even if I replace all of these, Im still only out like 200 bux total for everything. But Im running out of ideas. Gotta get it fixed. Dangerous! BTW, plugs and wires replaced within a year, so doubtful its that. UPDATE: Replaced battery cable end terminals - no difference in performance. Van went to shop today. Stalling ALOT and sputtering

In my case, the Mazda B4000 stalls ans sputters when I hit a bump, sometimes the engine dies. When the weather is cool, it does not do it. Odd. The hotter the temp outside, the worse it is. Seems like a loose electrical connection.

2008 Grand Caravan 3.3L/V6 118K miles - Currently intermittent stalling at low speed, hesitation/skipping while driving. Read most everything on here so far. First code kicked out Map sensor. So far by myself, I replaced PCV valve, Map Sensor, EGR, Air Filter and cleaned throttle body. Cleared codes along the way and newer code kicked out O2 sensor. Have one in hand but cant get old one to budge. Still stalling/skipping and getting worse. So there are 3 other things I'm looking at: 1) Battery terminal connections (seems like a cheap and easy thing to try), 2) Throttle position sensor, and 3) camshaft position sensor. Even if I replace all of these, Im still only out like 200 bux total for everything. But Im running out of ideas. Gotta get it fixed. Dangerous! BTW, plugs and wires replaced within a year, so doubtful its that. UPDATE: Replaced battery cable end terminals - no difference in performance. Van went to shop today. Stalling ALOT and sputtering_____________________________________________________________________UPDATE AGAIN....Mechanic replaced the crankshaft position sensor and installed the O2 sensor that I couldn't get unstuck. So for me it was the CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR.

Finally!!!! EGR code came up and it's being fixed right now. Had the key fob recall fixed and can still stalled. Hope this will fix it this time

Thanks to everyone for very informative posts on this! My 2010 T+C does exactly the same thing as described: stalls at 20-30 miles per hour when engine is warming up, worse when cold or wet, etc. I plan to get the EGR valve replaced soon and see if that does the trick. In the meantime, I found a workaround for stalling. If you use the manual shift function of the 6-speed automatic and keep the setting on 4th gear maximum, the momentum of the car will generally keep the engine from actually shutting down when it acts up. It still feels very hesitant during warmup, but it stays going. Caution: remember you are in 4th and shift back to auto before hitting the freeway.

I as well have a 2010 Town and Country. This has been going on for over a year. The dealership says they have never heard of this happening. My van dies as well when 20 to 40 mph in any weather but mostly wet/moist. I have gotten pretty good at feeling when it's going to happens and hit the emergency flashers. With 2 kids in the van I have such a strong fear that someone is going to hit us. Battery has been check, plugs redone,battery replaced in key fob. Nothing. Now we are going to try the suggested egr valve and crankshaft sensor. I will keep everyone informed. Thank you for helping me realized that I am not crazy☺

Hi everyone. Just wanted to let you know that I had the EGR valve replaced and the problem went away. Like many of you, my 2010 T&C stalled when warming up at low speeds, and it was getting very bad. I asked my favorite mechanic to just replace the EGR and skip the diagnostic, which according to these posts likely would not have revealed the problem. The fix was not cheap, but it was effective. So thanks to one and all for the helpful posts that pointed me in the right direction without a lot of wasted money on ineffective repairs. Also, for those of you have not been able to get the problem addressed yet, I repeat my earlier advice: use the manual feature of the transmission to prevent the car from shifting to 5th or 6th gear al low speeds. That trick prevented all stalling in my T&C until I was able to get the car to the shop to get it fixed properly. Good luck, and thanks for a very helpful discussion.

We are SOOOOO frustrated with our 2010 T/C Dodge van. It stalls out when we are driving. Typically when we are going 30ish mph. Have to skip it into neutral to restart. Often times it won't restart. We read about 300 comments of others and we experience the exact same problem. The dealership cannot fix it. They keep suggesting to try various fixes none of which work. A recall should be done by Chrysler

I have a 2009 Grand Caravan 4.0 L purchased new in Feb of 2009. It has 92,000 miles. It has had all the necessary maintenance including a complete tune up and new timing belt. For the past two months it has been stalling occasionally in the same manner as others in this forum have experienced. It stalls when deaccelerating at low speeds. The power brakes and power steering goes out and the only warning light which goes on is the anti-skid light. Rain seems to be factor. I took a printout of this forum conversation to a highly rated independent automotive service garage in Grand Rapids, MI for diagnosis and treatment. I presented the history and a printout of this forum's 37 pages with yellow high lighting. The mechanic appreciated the forum information. Based upon my reading of the postings in this forum, I suggested the replacement of the EGR valve, the camshaft sensor, and the crankcase sensor. The mechanic drove it to his house and back the night before the scheduled work. As I understand it, he checked the computer which showed no code, Using a computer data stream the EGR operation was found to be normal. The throttle plates were dirty. The battery voltage was low. It was necessary to relearn all adaptive computer memories. The throttle plate was cleaned and the battery was replaced. I was advised to drive my van and keep a journal of any bad performance issues, e.g. stalling. So far, with less than one hour of operation and with three shutdowns including on in the rain, everything is fine. Fingers crossed. Stay tuned. Thank you to everyone who has posted.

Hello guys, OK so it has been about a month or so since I replaced the EGR valve and had a fuel injection service done and so far so good. I had previously replaced the EGR a little over a year before I had to replace it again, but I do believe the car (EGR) just gets too dirty without cleaning some of the cars other components as well, which is why I believe the car was still stalling after the 1st time I replaced the EGR valve. I will try and upkeep the car with seafoam and take it to get the fuel system clean and anything else that might help clean it up on the inside. I'm looking at it like my air pump, even if I replace the air filter but leave the dust on the grill, the air filter will just get dirty faster. I'm not a mechanic but this is what is working for me so far. Good luck to you all I will try and post again in another few months to let you guys know how my car is doing. (2009 T/C 4.0)

K. So I think I finally solved this for my van. I replaced the EGR valve again (the third one in 2 years) and it has worked fine for the last months. My wife has put lots of miles on it and it hasn't had a bit of a problem since. I'm not sure, but I might have gotten a EGR valve, then a bad replacement valve. I ended up using a different supplier, and the last EGR valve I got has been working.

Thank you for all your posts folks. We bought a 2010 town and country last spring. Love it! But............... after a couple months We started having issues with stalling occasionally, but a much bigger problem with the car not starting. It has power to everything but when key is turned all you get is a "cchh" sound. Sometimes continuing to try it a few times starts it up. Lately however, the vehicle is simply more appt not to start at all (while the battery still has plenty of power). Our vehicle is at the mechanics today and they insisted the ground wire is bad and needs replaced for the car to start properly. I brought up the egr valve issue regarding the stalling and he said we had to fix the ground wire first and go from there. $225. I'll let you know what happens.

1186 make sure key fobs look new, was ignition recall done? That solved my not starting problem.

Please see previous post -- 5 posts above. Uncrossed fingers. It stalled out last night after about 5 minutes on a clear night at 41 F. going 25 mph. It started right up again after I put the car into Neutral , turned ignition key fob off and then to start. I received a honking from a following motorist who was apparently objecting to my curious slowing down for no apparent reason. So, I am posting a check list on the dashboard to make the restarting process quicker, when it stalls again: 1. Hazard Flasher On , 2. Shift to Neutral, 3. Ignition Off . 4. Restart , 5. Flasher Off. I will make another appointment at the independent garage to again seek replacement of EGR valve, camshaft sensor, and crankshaft sensor. Stay tuned.

Just reporting back regarding the work done on my 2010 T&C that was both having ignition problems and stalling issues. My vehicle came off the line in Sept. 2010 so we did not get in on any ignition /stalling recalls. The garage we took it to replaced the ground wire from the battery to the engine block. Quoted us $225, but ended up costing only about $201. That fixed the ignition problem. As to whether it will still stall is yet to be seen. They said their wasn't any power going through the cable. This was an independent garage, NOT a dealership

I returned to the independent garage to again request the " Big 3 " : EGR valve, camshaft sensor, and crankshaft sensor. The ace mechanic agreed only to replace the two sensors at this time. He stated that a stall due to a faulty EGR valve generally results in the vehicle coughing/sputtering/gurgling just before it stalls, whereas a faulty sensor results in immediate arrest. So , a day in the garage and a $ 200 charge and we are off again.

Unfortunately my car stalled at a very slow speed in a parking garage as I rounded a corner, So, next week I will return to the independent garage to seek installation of the Notorious EGR Valve. Stay tuned.

Owl2 can you "make it stall"? I could with mine, by keeping my foot on the gas but below 40mph. That means for sure it is the EGR valve. Sounds like your local mechanic can fix this reasonably. Good luck!

I'm not sure if my T&C stalling issue is the same as many of yours? It has more than just a stalling issue, though. But the stalling thing, so far, has only been at low speeds, like is mentioned many times here. I read a lot, but not EVERY reply. But when mine stalls, EVERYTHING is shut down, radio, lights, it's just DEAD. And it holds my key hostage: I can't turn it fully to off, can't take the key out of the ignition. I have to wait several minutes, then all of a sudden, lights and radio back on, and I can remove the key. I can also restart it, and it's fine. Sometimes this is when I first start driving, sometimes after I"ve been driving at least a half hour. But other issues, may or may not be related... This is completely random, there is NOTHING I can determine that is common in when this happens... but, for a split second, all the panels on the dash drop to zero (gas, temp, speed...) and the dash lights come on and the ping noise. It's so fast, if you're not looking, you won't notice it (except hearing the ping). Sometimes it just does it once, but usually more often... and usually, once it does it, it will do it each time I use the brake, or the turn signal, or.... And sometimes it'll affect things until I turn the car off and wait a few minutes... like the stability thing, or cruise control will stop working, etc. It SEEMS to happen more often when the lights plus something else are on (such as lights plus A/C (and i live in Arizona!), or lights plus the halo lighting inside (so that's off now), etc. I CAN use the radio and lights. But turn signals are best NOT used if the lights are on :/ (oh and I work nights, so I'm always driving in the dark!). Now a new problem, but may be unrelated.... it's overheating... in this cool weather. Water is full. Only been driven 15 mintues when it overheats. It's currently at the mechanic for that, and initial thinking on that is thermostat, so may not be related at all to the above. It HAS been to the mechanic for the above though, but of course, they couldn't get it to act up, and no codes showed up. Anyone else have these issues, not just the stalling thing? Or stalling but, like mine, EVERYTHING stops and it holds your key hostage?

Oh yeah, and there is no recall on my van. Not sure if it had one prev that got fixed, I bought it July of last year (2016) but no recall currently.

Update on the overheating, the radiator needs to be replaced.

Jessica what year is your van? This does not sound at all like a bad egr valve. I suspect electrical issue of some kind that involves the battery.

I also join the list of complaints. I own a 2008 t&c limited. I usually never buu american car but i went agaisnt my better judgement and bought this thing. It has had continued problems starting and it now just died on me whike driving home with my two kids. I do not feel safe letting my wife drive this vam around. I also replaced the egr valve last week. I am at a loss and do not know where to go from here.

It's a 2010

Julie -- thank you. I did have the EGR valve replaced. That was it ! My car now runs better than when new. From the time I bought it, the car jerked/balked at about 31 MPH. It now no longer does that. It does not stall. It does not nearly stall when slowing down. My only remaining issue is that on rare occasions it does not immediately start. Usually after a few rounds of turning the ignition off and then to start, the car starts. Only once did I leave the car in the garage after not being able to start it. I returned the following morning and it started immediately. Anyone else have this happen to them ?

Owl2 was ignition recall done on yours? My not starting issue was fixed by having that done and camshaft position sensor replaced. Summer 2015 dealers had many of these vans towed in for not starting and the fix was usually new ignition box. The recall came out in early 2016 I think.

Thank you, Julie , for your interest. Yes, I believe , the ignition box has been replaced. The first time was just a routine changing of the " key " device because of the recall relative to the issue involving the inability of the device to hold the weight of multiple keys dangling off it. The second replacement was in response to my complaint about the failure of the car to start at the first attempt. The second replacement was about a year ago. The new failures to start immediately have occurred recently after the recent replacement of the cam sensor, the crank sensor , and the EGR valve.

2010 Chrysler Town and Country 110,000 miles Location: Boston area Issue: engine stall in 1st 5 min for overnight parking or park at workplace for 8+ hours (Engine is cold), in cold weather or humid weather. Sometime the traction control light goes on when this happens. No engine check light, no error code can be read. The issue started a year ago and it randomly happen, once a few weeks or so. It is getting worse recently, sometime twice a day, beginning of my commutes. Solution (cautiously called it this way now): 100K maintenance and tune up (injection system clean up--change spark plug, it also clean the throttle body with their tune up service, per the service guy, at a local shop). Result: a week after tune up, no stall or no sign of it so far, keep my finger crossed. Before the tune up, it happen almost every day, a couple times per week for sure. Here is a post on other website which lead me to the tune up service. https://community.cartalk.com/t/town-and-country-stalling-out/83432/4 How many miles are on this van? I was reading carefully, and the clues I picked up on were 'same stretch of road' and 'few minutes after leaving the house'. The van should be programmed at start up to fast idle the engine. Once the engine reaches a certain point, the PCM will cut the idle to normal. However, there is a small window between this certain point and fully warmed up where the engine could stall because it is not fully warmed up. Based on mileage, the could be due to worn spark plugs, lower compression, or dirty throttle body and/or idle air controller (IAC). These will probably test fine on a fully warmed up engine, but a luke warm engine will suffer. A cheap way to find out if this could be the reason is to let the van warm up until the idle drops while in the driveway, not the garage (exhaust fumes), then drive it. If it stalls out at a different spot or not at all, it's probably something a tune up and throttle body/IAC cleaning will fix. Good luck to everyone. will provide update in a month or two.

Is that a 2010 with 4.0 engine? With top engine cover removed, check your vacuum hose on intake manifold plenum beside throttle body. (The hose leads to the evaporative system's proportional purge solenoid near passenger side firewall.) The hose on our 2010 Grand Caravan 4.0 was merely hanging on the fitting by gravity alone, and causing a considerable vacuum leak. I secured it at base of fitting with mini hose clamp. Hose end is shown here on right of diagram https://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=641012&ukey_make=1062&ukey_model=15493&modelYear=2010&ukey_category=20308 Intake manifold plenum hose fitting visible on left of circled "2" (throttle body) https://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=671534&ukey_make=1062&ukey_model=15493&modelYear=2010&ukey_category= 20309

https://www.cbsnews.com/news/chrysler-recalls- 160000-pacifica-minivans-over-engine-stall-fears/ Signed on to Google and this was the first story on my newsfeed. Seems like the same problems we are having, but they have already updated my computer and no fix for me afterwards. On another note, my van has stalled once since replacing erg valve, although it wants to stall once I put a fuel cleaner in it runs fine. My next replacement will be fuel filter.

I'll gladly join the masses. Same issue - stalling around 30-40 randomly. Can often duplicate holding at 35mphs for 2 minutes..typical driving, Intermittent drops to 0 in RPMs. idles at 400-500, still too low.. traction light may or may not come on. other times runs great, although hesitation occurs 30-40 mph. Seems to sputter a bit, but steady on the gas pedal will fix this temporarily, til it decides to stall. once in the morning, 3x after sitting in garage at work for 6 hrs, although not every time... Just through into neutral, and turn the key while driving, then back to drive..NOT a fix, but a quick workaround. Watch the RPMs fall while driving, so you are prepared... this is what I do til we can pinpoint the issue.. Look at this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9OwrhVOHe1Y - Seems to maybe a sodering issue under the guage cluster.. just a thought. -- Used to throw ABS codes, and torque denied to ABS, replaced ABS module, and does not seem to be issue. Many forums on TIPM, needing to be replaced (the entire fuse box!) but 1200 dealer item. so not going down that road. only code - C211C, but only applies to 4 wheel drive - my 2009 town and country 110,00 4.0 is front wheel drive, so does not apply. EGR replacement: not yet, but seems somewhat likely... THIS is interesting here: The problem is the vapor/liquid separator valve located at the top of the fuel tank. The valve is designed to prevent liquid fuel from entering the charcoal canister/emissions system. When the valve fails, liquid gas can enter the line and fill the charcoal canister. After refueling the PCM on the vehicle detects a change in fuel level. Then, when the engine meets certain temperature and driving criteria, the PCM issues a purge command to the charcoal canister to remove the stored gas vapors. It’s at that point that all the liquid gas in the line gets sucked into the charcoal canister. The PCM expects to see gas vapors entering the intake manifold and it is prepared to adjust air/fuel mixtures to compensate. However, it is not prepared to see liquid gas coming into the intake. That’s what causes the engine to stall."-- Although I dont know if it is related.. I was told Key Fob possible..we have 2, the one that does NOT have the heavy key chain, seems to work better. but still stalls. Throttle body cleaning, and Lucas in the tank seems to help but only for about a week With 4 kids, I will continue to be the sole driver til we can figure it out. Good luck to all!!