My van won't start.

1st things first, charge the battery it sounds like you've been trying to start this thing for awhile now and the battery has no ummmf left, so can't really do much with it, till you charge it.... Secondly, never shotgun repairs you've spent a lot of money already and this could be something simple. Only replace what you know to be wrong. Alright with that out of the way, what is the voltage across the battery terminals? What exactly happened when it died? Did it just rev down like the key was shut off? (Reply with the answers to those two questions and then work on answering my other ones in order) Do you have spark? Have you checked fuel pressure at the rail? What did it read? Have you check engine compression on all the cylinders? If so what did they read?

Some of the Dodge vans had a problem with the pcm wiring harness chaffing on the transmission. It is a large harness (about 1 1/2" diameter) and it goes right over the tranny, from front to rear. What happens is, the harness is to tight and it rubs against the transmission, shorting out fuel injector signal wires. Not sure if this was any help or if your vehicle even has this problem. Worth a try though.

This is exactly what I want to avoid... ashes007 spent a WHOLE bunch of money and it is still a problem. I own a 2002 Chrysler T&C 3.8L V6 w/ around 90K miles. Two weeks ago I pulled it into the garage and turned it off. I heard a noise coming from my dash, sounded as if my CD player were trying to eject a cd. Powered back up and pressed eject, nothing to eject. When I turned it off and opened the door, not only did I hear a “whirling” sound coming from the dash, but there was also a rapid clicking coming from the fuse box by the battery. I pulled the cover off the box and determined the clicking sound was coming from an ASD relay. Went and purchased a new one. After a simple replace, I again got the clicking ASD relay as soon as I turned the ignition switch. Removed the ASD relay and began my internet search. Two days later I try to start it and it was completely dead. Couldn’t even jump it, just clicked. Took the battery to an auto store who tested it; tested fine but low charge - charged it. Rule out battery. It appears I am not the only sad sack who has experienced this problem. A few days ago I called my local Dodge/Chrysler dealer and told them of my problem and was told I had a bad battery, that there wasn‘t enough amps. Fist of all, the ASD is clicking without a key even in the ignition, let alone turned to be powered up. I tell him the battery tests fine and share with him that I have seen a lot of on-line posts where people are suggesting to replace the PCM but they continue to have the same problems after replacment. The mechanic at the dealership told me it was likely not the PCM since the ASD relay is actually getting powered (or something along those lines). So today I go out with a freshly charged battery and try to get it started so I can take it to the dealership. Dead! But it did click a lot louder. Towed to dealership. The dealership calls and tells me it needs a new PCM ($730 + $285 labor + taxes = well over $1000.00). I ask if he is sure that is the problem. He proceeds to tell me that they will not know if there are other problems until they fix the PCM and run the codes to see what else pops up bad. Is this unacceptable to anyone else but me? But I am at a severe disadvantage. Replacing a fuse is about as much as I can do in the automotive field and I am completely out of my league. I don’t even know the terminology (as evident, I’m sure) where I can speak with any sort of authority. But I also don’t feel like the dealership is even trying. It just seems sloppy and lazy to me. I tried to have a conversation with this young kid this morning and I may as well have been speaking Swahili. Maybe I’m wrong? Maybe the PCM is the problem? But a majority of the posts I read are where people replace their PCMs and they continue to have the problem. But they really have you, don’t they? After all, what am I going to do, fix it myself? Eat the $80 tow and the $95 inspection and have it towed back in my driveway to rot? I sure wish I were more educated/empowered to combat this awful feeling. This is not just a cathartic release… do any of you have advice as to what YOU would do (minus me going to automotive school) if you were me?

I was having these types of problems for months, but it was my alarm that I thought was causing the issue. What it came out to be, behind the dash/speedometer, the board had cracked solders, I had to remove the entire dash and solder them back. I've had good luck with it since. No more dying and just shutting down. You may want to look at this site, it may help http://ingriddijkers.com/CaravanPics.html Good luck... I've been a month issue free, now another. I will NEVER by a CHRYSLER MINI VAN AGAIN!!

Thanks JoEllen. So, it sounds like it was a short to gound or a ground to short or... okay, it was an electrical problem. That is what I keep reading anyhow. I actaully have liked the van and have only had minor repairs. But I have a strong feeling the dealership is a bunch of morons and this situation is going to cause me to buy something besides a Chrsyler-Dodge product. I'm going to meet w/ the service director tomorrow. If he is anything like the kid who wrote up the service order... Virtually every post I have read about this particualr issue points to an electrical problem otside the PCM. Thanks again.

I second Mark Thyssen posts. Also I have seen the fuel injector wires short out as well as short to the engine on these vans. When the injector wires short the PCM fries out. Have the mechanic probe the wires to the fuel injectors. If the vehicle wont turn over and all you here is clicking it sounds like a bad battery, or bad battery connection. I experienced this on our '98 caravan. Clean or replace the battery terminals and install a known good battery for testing. If you are still having the same problem, check the engine harness like Mark said.

Thanks to you Christopher. You are one of several peopl;e who suggested trying a new battery. When this first happened, I immediately thought it was my battery as it is about 7 years old. But it checked out fine on the auto store test. Man, if it is the battery, I will kick myself in the arse. But I am going to go purchase a battery tomorrow and put it in the van out on teh dealership's lot. If it starts, I pay my $95 diagnostic fee and walk. If it doesn't work, i needed a new one anyhow. I will then demand the dealership * probe the wires to the fuel injectors. * check inside the IPM for corrosion issues. * check for a loose/corroded connection at the battery or where the positive connects in the PDC or the chassey ground. * check the pcm wiring harness for chaffing on the transmission. * check for a shorted and Interior Light conversion panel relay -- if that's how you say that? * check if there is a short in the relay/power distribution box. As one fella wrote: My 30 years of shade-tree mechanics coupled with my 20 years as an electrician is telling me it is a short to ground. The ASD relay powers up the PCM, which in turn supplies power to other circuits thus engaging the short and power loss cycle. I am now getting helpful hints form folks like yourself on what I should be asking the lazy dealership to do. So any additional suggestions will be added to my growing list. Thank you again. G

hey i am having a very similar issue with my 2000 t&c limited. the driver power window went bad so i went to replace it. however after replacing i am getting a rapid clicking sound coming from a relax in teh inside fuse box and the van is completely dead. i am sooo lost. no idea what to check for. if you found a solution please help me out. thank you

dont know if ya cked the harness at the frt goin through the motor mnt also ck the harness over the coil pack at the back of engtop for the inj,tps,iac . hope it helps

we are having the same problem we pulled to dash apart and are looking at your picutre but we cant tell what you solder the wires on our that lead to them are black and 1 green/black on the red plug this is my phone no can you please call me we cant get the van to start thanks heather 248-974-4261

Had similar issues mentioned thru out this post & I did something that seemed to have fixed it. - Disconnected the battery (both post), Cleaned the posts and clamps with wire tool. - I disconnected the 2 wire (red & green) going to the relay/fuse box and cleaned them as well with the wire tool & reconnected them. - Reconnected the the battery (Positive 1st then negative) & cranked the engine. It worked and all is fine so far. (go figure). Maybe it will work for you (or not) but it was easy and nothing to loose. Good luck! Gil

I have a 96 chrysler town and country lx and the engine died, turned over but wouldn't start, I researched and replace the flywheel sensor mounted on the transmission housing behind the engine. It has one bolt and a plug. It was awkward to fix, couldn't really see anything but easy to replace. The new sensor has a pad glued to it that rubs off when the flywheel spins and creates the perfect gap. Maybe this is your problem.

My 02 T&C started having problems two months ago... That's right, this has been a two month ordeal and several hundred dollars in to it. My #3 injector was shorted open and was POURING fuel into the engine. It was so bad, fuel was coming out of the exhaust. I had to change the oil due to the fuel in the oil. So far, we've changed out the fuel injector, PCM and ASD fuse (which kept blowing after the engine was on for 5 seconds). The ASD stopped blowing after changing the first PCM out. The new PCM, however, kept sending signals to the new injector to stay open. ONE of my mechanics found the fuel injection wire were FRIED. Insulation had been melted off and there were BARE wires touching eachother. I think they shorted out the new PCM as well. In the mean time, I wanted to offe up that AFTER you change out the PCM the car is NOT going to start until the keys are programmed to the new PCM if your keys are the kind with transponders in them. I saved money by buying a PCM online from a refurb company. Also, some locksmiths can program the key. Beats towing it to the dealer and paying for the dealer to program it as well. Also, the dealer cost of the PCM is over $800 plus labor. The refurb was under $300 and works fine. Except that it got fried anyway by the shorted wires. Hmmmph! Anyway... Just wanted to say... Remember that if it doesn't start after a PCM change, it could be your keys. The grey ones need to be programmed. - Good Luck

I had this exact same problem, and just cleaned the posts and clamps as Charger440 did, and it solved my problem too.

I am needing some help to find a wire connector #3 to my fuel injector wiring harness due to a huge, fat mouse that chewed the wires on that one. Any suggestions?

I cannot get my 2001 Chrysler t&c to start. wont turn over at all. Clicks in relay box. Bought and installed new battery and new starter. Still nothing!!!

im having the same problrm with a 97man t&c it will crank cold, but once it warms up it dies...idk where to start...anyone that can help please call patty @like 3522993626

I have a problem with the power turning off on my instrument panel so I drive around with the dash off and pull the instument panel to press the wire harness in the back and reconnect the power to the panel board. many sites have suggested resaudering the connections. there seem to be a lot of other vehicles with this part and problem? I’m not sure how to fix this? I urge anyone with this problem to call ODI, office of defects investigation at 1-888-327-4236 and file a complaint as I did. the instument panel costs $600-$1000 to replace this part. the replacement is the same part and has no guarentees it wont have the same problem? this is a defect and the manufacturer should fix the production of the part properly!

Guys my T & C is fuel related. I can get it started only be pushing the gas a bit. But i have to ease off the gas slowly when it's finally started. Then it will run. (not good to drive like this though). When you turn the car on... where all the dashboard lights light up, but don't actually turn it on! then you should hear a electronic noise coming from the back of the van, like a whirrrrrr... that's the fuel pump. On mine it's doing it sometimes but not all the time and this is where I think the problem is. Took it to a mechanic a few weeks ago and he replaced the alternator and water pump. No help at all :( So stuck until I further diagnose it this weekend.

I have a 98 t&c it started stalled, started stalled, then wouldnt do anything! now turn the key and nothing, checked starter checked fuses (under hood and dash) checked the fuel pump by the fuel rail, took off battery cables to reset the van, I even hit the dash board as hard as i could like 20 times, and still nothing! HELP! I am a single mother with 5 kids and no way to pay a dealership to fix it. Its the ONLY vehicle we have and only one we can all fit in. any kind of help would be greatly appreciated. TY in advanced for any help supplied. Patricia

probably the wire harness behind the instument cluster. you have to unscrew the beauty peices to get to the plug. lean the instrument cluster forward gently press the plug harness connectors. your dash will ding when you find the rigt wire. start the van quick. once it starts it will stay started if you loose your dash.

Okay so I replaced the transmission in my 1995 chrysler town and country lxi. It started right up with the old transmission. After I installed the new one it won't start.. Any ideas why it isn't starting? Its just trying to turn over. Is it an electrical problem? Is there a switch where I have to reset electric . Please help ! Thanks :-)

Same problem here.. 00 T&C Limited. Driving one day,went to stop for a stop sign.. Van shut off like I had turned the key off.. Everything was still on.. Heat,DVD,lights, etc.. Started back up and drove fine... ODD?? Couple of days later, put it in R to back out. Shut off. Started up and drove fine.. Well my wife was leaving work and it shut off while stopping for a light... Sat for a few and said the gas pedal felt limp.. Said she pushed the pedal down and it started up?? Like its not getting fuel? No code for me to read or lights on.. Pretty stumped.. Any ideas?

No power, clicking relays on 1998 town & county, chrysler mini van. 12 volts at battery.

There's a very easy test to check for dead shorts 1) remove the positive battery cable from the battery 2) take a test light and stick the pin into the battery post 3) take the wire with the clip and connect it to the positive battery cable if the test light lights bright you have dead short or something is on if it lights dim you have a small short that's draining the battery also you need a fully charged battery to do this. DO NOT HOOK UP BOTH BATTERY CABLES TO THE BATTERY BECAUSE WHAT EVER IS KILLING OR DRAINING THE BATTERIES WILL DRAIN THIS ALSO. GOOD LUCK

my 2009 chrysler has a short too. I cannot figure out what might be the problem stereo comes on and off when I press break. My van sometimes won't start because it kills the battery. I have replace battery, alternator, and still with new battery the next day it will be dead. I don't know what or where to start checking to solve the problem. I don't trust the dealership anymore! Please help!

sorry misspelled brake.

Most of you need a new "computer" What you can do is get one from a junk yard, install in 15 minutes and have dealer reflash computer to your vin #. cost $75 used computer, 90 to 120 to have it reflashed.Wanna check it? hold the bare end of any of the coil pack wires and turn it over, no shock usually no computer, you can try a coil pack first. Im just trying to save you a step.

I have had a 2002 dodge Grand Caravan SE with the 3.3 L engine for the last 8 Years what a nightmare !!. The Van was sucking up my Life because of repair work. I too had the number 5 injector problem that could be the injector shorted, the PCM, the Injector wire harness and any number of 100 other things. If the injector can short, the harness can melt, and the PCM get fried because of this what does that say about engineering. This Injector problem was the final straw that broke the camels back. After transmission, ignition coil, fuel pump, radiator, water pump, ac pump, ac condeser, alternator, and on and on it finally hit me I am thick headed but lets face it Do Not Buy A Dodge Caravan. I Dumped the Van and will never ever buy another Chrysler Product Again!.

After having a accident we replaced all parts an panels my chryler voyager 3.3. 1998 won't move even when in "n". As its auto forward or backwards cannot be move acceptt if lifted on 2 truck. Lawrence

I have a 2001 t/c and for two years my diagnostic been reading pcm or module. Could not afford one so never got it. So I took my car to a mechanic to see y my air wasn't getting cold but it blows .mind u my car runs fine but it just had a lil mis shift to it .( maybe just need to change plugs and wires)so get there they check it out and car won't start back up. So had to leave my car and they said I needed a pcm its not running my air compresser so they got one try it still didn't start. Ended up going through all this for about a month ( no car)! So the ended up having to run some wires from my pcm box to make a ground to get the van back started. So it starts and ever got the air compresser to run bi hookin wires to the battery to give I guess juice to compresser to go. It worked. Years down line air stop working off the battery cable, heat n front stop blowing only back heat blowing, um had to turn heat on for frt heat to blow in the glove compartment n the fuse box .take it out the put it n when we needed heat but that finally went out so not heat n frt anymore. Radio system sometimes doesn't work at all! Find out when I reset battery it gets that back working. And yea forgot... back to heat system the frt when u control the heat it comes on but doesn't control nothing! Just u can turn the nobs .they go up and down (ttemperature)but no control nothing. Horn doesn't work, curse control doesn't work, dash lights come on when u start car but not giving and signs like engine lite on.. sun roof won't close all the way!! Vent means open and open means close! All off!! So all this being said I really need help on the next step to take or what could it be. I'm so tired of going through this .I love my van. It has not fell me but just minor things but I affaid its going give out with all these electric problems going on. My whole thing is I can't pass emissions n Illinois like this. Anybody knows anyway thing about all these things I mention or how to pass emissions? Please help!!! Single parent. Only car. Lots of driving I do and gas! Thank you so much!!! PLEASE HELP!!

This may be too late for most people on here, but I hope it may help somebody. My wife's 2000 T&C just died on her in a parking lot. I tried everything to get it started there to no avail. Called for a tow and the driver said the same as I was thinking, the fuel pump. Had it towed to my house, put it in the garage ordered a new pump and filter and hoped that will work. Nope. Went online and heard that the inst. cluster sometimes needs to be re soldered so I pulled it and touched up any soldering that looked bad, re installed the cluster and hoped that would fix it. Nope. Checked the fuses, pulled the injectors off and had my wife crank it up, the injectors sprayed gas, so I pulled the wire harness off the coil and sprayed with WD40 and that worked. So try this very inexpensive solution first and save some time and money. Hopes this helps somebody.

I have a 97 ctc mini van will start but dies kind of load when does start. Smells really strong of exhaust please help me

I have a 97 Chrysler town and country it just ckik but it wont start I change the starter and do the same thing and I have 12.46 battery voltes and it still I got just the ckick on the fuses box and the starter I really need help

My 2005 tc did this.... Am not a mechanic but I figure it out myself there is a relay in the fusebox say safety start or something like that change it or check that first before spending hundreds of dollars

My wife has a 2006 tc and it seems to die out from time to time after the dash gauges flicker and music cuts in and out. I have done a few things to narrow down what this could be I come to think its a short in the battery cable but I can't replace the cable because its a complete harness and factory OEM replacement cost $1,500 so I am currently checking junk yards for this part.

I have a 1997 t c. It suddenly wouldn't start. It would turn over but not start. A mechanic friend of mine came out and looked at it and said that it was the coil pack. So we bought that and replaced it. Still wouldn't start and now wouldn't turn over. So we take the battery to be checked it was bad so we bought and replaced that. Now it starts but after it starts to warm up it makes a clicking sound then dies. I am wondering if if could be the fan isn't kicking on cause I don't hear it. But I have no idea what to do because I'm no mechanic please help.

I was reading all your comments becuase my van just dont want start so i read one comment about somebody had this problem on his alarm. So i what i did i just hit a couple times on top of the dush where is the light for the alarm. Then my van start working again ..so is have to be a short on the area i will fix it right later. But for right now is running. .. thanks guys ..

Ok we are out of town on vacation and our T&C won't start. It cranks the radio works oil is fine gas is fine no clicking noises. Hub said batt and plugs and wires look fine. Any suggestions?

turn the headlights on and try to start it if the headlights dim or go out completely it might be the battery or a short in the stater.

Be sure to check the negative cable on the battery, theres a little wire that is connected, that when lose you will get the same effect

Question, this morning I started my 2007 t&c no problems drove it with no problems went out to go get my kids from school and it didn't want to start. My husbands friends came to look at it and they say it has spark and they can smell the fuel. They are think it's the crank sensor could this be the problem? Can anyone help?

2001 town and country 3.8, no power to anything, just quit on me while driving, battery gets hot if hooked up, tried different battery, no help, jumped to the cables directly and the cables get hot instantly, again nothing powers up, no fuses blown, no dome light, hazards, NOTHING, pulled out the battery, disconnected the starter wires and Alt wires that was no help, with the positive cable to the battery and voltmeter to the ground cable and top post of battery a heavy draw is seen at 12 volts ( and it climbs fast ) the battery has a low charge but I'm thinking a main power wire is grounding out and I cant seem to find it, or a melted wire any where. I was hoping someone might have run into this before and can provide some useful insight. Replaced the IPM, no change. Thank you for your time.

Chrysler twon and country Why three works and three does not work

town and country ignition coil Why three works and three does not work

Well I was told I have that weird key thing faub or whatever you call it they told me it's bad and causing my 2010 not to crank they apparently quit working if you have one u might need to replace it I'll get back to y'all if that solves my problem but these dealerships are selling this product to us and they Seem like they don't even know .if they were trying to sale the problem and making money they would be right on it replacing every part is ridiculous there should be a recall on this shit let's get a pattion started and go to the main people and get something done I have a blazer same shit I have a Jeep same shit I have a suburban Dame shit Chrysler same thing when does it stop the older cars ran for ever and a day

So my wifes 2006 Chrysler town and country lx had problems and it kept dying out I had replaced alot and still not fixed so here is how I fixed the problem I replaced the pcm module then I had a short in the voltage regulator connector and under the fuse box. Now the van runs really good and no problems.

Well I have a 2000 t&c and was driving fine never had any problems outta it well as I was driving it just shuts off as if you turned the key off and I tried to crank it back up and it wont start will turn over but wont start any ideas .need help badly only way back and forth to work

does it crank and how strong? very strong it might be a fuel problem IE fuel pump, out of gas or very low gas. It could be the sock or filter in the fuel tank clocked. It could be the timing belt or chain or it jumped timing. Its very hard to diagnose a problem without seeing the van. It can be a simple thing like a cracked or loose distributor cap. as I said before the possibilities are endless. I had a 2001 T/C and a 2007 T/C now have a 2014 T/C Its cheaper to trade them in for a newer one then repair them.

Check and see if the ignition fuse has blown? That is what happened with mine..... As for the starting and stalling issue you could have a defective TIPM? GOOD LUCK!!

We have had problems with the orange wire that attaches to the positive cable, they don't give you any extra, so check that, sometimes if you move it it will click, it gets thin and you may need to tape it and check the positive, because if it is not tight enough the car would not start, Also, the horn relay controls all those lights, blinkers and dash, so swap with another relay and see if it comes on. Beware, speed sensors will make van run in limp mode and might seem like a transmission

I have had many miles of no problems with this caravan, it ran to about 250K miles of abuse. We have learned that every car has it's issues, and luckily we can now search in youtube and the internet. Currently trying to figure out Anti-skid and speed sensors on Volvo's that go limp.....

Timing belt?

Peeps having starting or running problem (won't run for long), I have a theory and that is it is the anti-theft system responding to a DUPLICATE KEY...not one with the electronics on it! So the moral of the story is to always use the proper KEY to start it..use the one that came with it with the remote lock/unlock buttons. I had a duplicate "made" at Wal Mart for my T&C LX and it's great to open the doors manually, but apparently not great to drive with.

This thread is so confused because the description of the problem is sadly lacking. Is the starter engaging and turning the motor over? Is the starter not engaging? Diagnosis is much different pending an accurate description of the problem.

I have 2003 Town and country lx 3.3 having same prob. everyone seems to be having No crank no start didi every test i knew and then some. being a tech, for over 25 yrs. found the PCM was done replaced it started right up go to start again it starts NOW windows wont go up/dn no radio A/C blower motor wont work. Anyone got an idea from there?? What is Chrysler building these days Junk for more $$$$$$$ I wont let any of my fam. buy Chrysler again and i had aRam 1500 for yrs no prob.

I had same problem and the little wire that goes on the negative terminal has lost connection try taken a pair of jumping cables walking to the negative terminal and clamp it on the exhaust manifold or somewhere on the engine try cranking it it should start at least that was my problem

More than likely, it's the TIPM (total integrated power module). The TIPM has a notorious problem of having FAULTY FACTORY RELAYS installed on the interior circuit boards. Don't run out and spend $1200 for a new TIPM that has these relays - you're throwing away your money and not solving the problem. I replaced the TIPM on my 2010 T&C with a rebuilt unit (cost $325) and it solved everything! Car runs great, A/C is working again, no problems with starting up. I bought my TIPM at: https://www.totalintegratedpowermodule.com I'm not saying you need/should purchase your TIPM from where I bought mine, I'm just saying to verify that the internal relays are not the factory-installed pieces of garbage. If the relays haven't been replaced, there's a big chance the problem will resurface.

I have 2003 Chrysler Town& Country van want crank just turn put in a fural pump want sratr so what could it be.

I have a 2009 T&C and everything turns on, but the engine wont start. No cranking, no noise, just wont start. Got the battery checked, battery is good, so not that. The tow guy said that it has to be an ignition problem because he can hear it has power going to it, but for some reason it wont turn the car on. Anyway it's in the shop so guess I'll find out after this weekend

Sunocoblue Please post anything you find out. I have a similar issue with my 2008. I have done the battery and changed out the battery in the keyfob. I am still having the issue.

Ok i finally had fixed that problem i just have not posted in a long time. So what i did because the harness for the battery that is going to cost alot to replace i disconnected the possitive cable only and replaced it with another positive cable after i connected that then used electric tape over the old positive cable so it does not touch the chasie. Oddly enough after all the money and trouble shooting the problem was the battery cables so mad after wards but happy to know the problem is good.

I got a2001 t & c lxi was pulling on a street an stepped on paddle & died out. Didn't start after tat.cranjs no start ..checked spark none .fuel pressure .none .tested ciol ok none spark .

I have a 2012 wife drove it to work got in it and started backed up and died wouldnt do anything,the dash lights came on with a red swiggly thing in the middle of the cluster, i got it towed home battery checked out good so i did a hard reboot taped the postive and negative togeather over night installed battery back still nothing took the battery out re taped the positive and negative left for 3 days and went and got a new battery installed worked fine problem solved i thought i cleaned on it for 3 days after work i put a reader on it and it said no codes was found, on the 4 day was going to drive it to work wouldn't start.got home and started up and it died like someone cut the key off put the battery back on charge was allnright and re tapped , next jumped in it and it started up and just died like someone cut the key off. Any more suggestions

Try getting fault codes by turning key on & off 3 times,it should display your fault codes.

I had the same and it was a bad fuel pump relay that is located deep in the your Town & Country's fuse box. Chrysler's solution to this problem is to replace the entire fuse box, estimated cost $1200-$1500. However my mechanic said that there is a work-around that cost $30. He said that the fule pump is located in the gas tank and that the relay is designed to stop the flow of fule if you are involved in a major accident. YouTube has videos of the work-around and you can Google the part and cost. If your T&C has an intermittent starting problem then finally just won't start then this is most likely the problem. The part was 2 day delivery and solved my problem.