1993 Chevrolet C1500 "K" 5.7L, cranks but will not start.

10

Asked by timcser712 Dec 10, 2015 at 06:18 AM about the 1993 Chevrolet C/K 1500 Cheyenne LB RWD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Summary of the problem: Initially the truck wouldn't start as if the batt. were dead. replaced the battery and it started. two days later, after and initial start to warm it up, it just died after 20 minutes. Replaced the Ignition Control Module with one that I had from an old distributor and it started right up. Next day: started in the morning drove it some 18 miles and it just died again. I, again, replaced the ICM with the original one as well as the coil, it started. Drove it down the road about 100 yards and back, the "Battery" light was flickering and my volt gauge was reading about 9.5 volts. I checked all connection going to the engine and only found a frayed connector wire that is for the Engine Temp Sensor. I did an "on the spot repair" and the the light still flickered for a monent and then went out, and the gauge climber to between 13/14 volt. I had both of the ICM's tested and both were good. To date, I have replaced the ICM, Distributor, spark plugs & wires, Coil. Checked all grounds. I'm at a loss for a solution, and really need some assistance.

18 Answers

223,755

Ok, sounds like you got the charging system working as 14 V on the gauge means it is charging. If you still have the battery light or gauge reading low, I would suggest getting the alternator checked out, my be the voltage regulator going out. This may be the causing it to die. Another thing to check would be fuel pressure. It should be 9 to 13 lbs.

1 people found this helpful.
10

I'm going to check the fuel pressure this evening. As far as the Battery light and gauge goes, I'll double check that also and get back to you. This has me pulling out my hair LOL, I can spray staring fluid directly into the TBI and nothing. any who, I'll be in touch. Thanks

1 people found this helpful.
223,755

Ahh...It should start when spraying starting fluid down the TBI. That is indicating something else. When you say you replaced the distributor, is that with a new one? This is sounding more electrical than anything. ICM can test good, but with heat they can stop working and explains being able to start it up after it cools down. Do you have a new ICM that you tried? I need to know about the distributor.

1 people found this helpful.
223,755

On the fuel, check some plugs and see what they look like. (black, white, coca-brown, wet)

1 people found this helpful.
10

Rowefast,the distributor is new as well as the ICM. The plugs that I pulled last night were a of whit and the coco-brown, and were bone dry. The distributor is a Duramax Gold brand if that helps you.

223,755

Well that indicates it is burning perfectly, fuel & spark. So there would be a new pick-up coil in the distributor also? Tell me about the cap & rotor, & the coil. New? When it doesn't start is there spark? Starting to lean back to fuel, thinking the fuel regulator in the TBI may be weak.

1 people found this helpful.
223,755

Forgot to ask, did you put that dialectic grease under the icm when installing?

1 people found this helpful.
10

Yep, the distributor came with the ICM, Cap, & rotor button pre-installed, as was the internal pick up coil. So, to answer your question, no I did not apply any dialectic grease. The external coil is new. There isn't any spark or fuel, the engine just turns over and no start.

223,755

So you never removed the ICM? Put that grease on it if you do, it dissipates the heat, protects it. Well then need to insure there is 12V at the coil when the key is on. Did this run after putting in the new distributor?

2 people found this helpful.
223,755

I can feel it, can you? Were getting closer to the problem... Gona have to check and see if it is in correctly. (distributor) Do you know how to do this?

1 people found this helpful.
10

Yes Sir. Thats my plan when I get home tonight. Gotta do it the old fashioned way, TDC, compresion stroke, etc. LOL.

223,755

I'll be around, so check dizzy placement, 12V at the coil, then fuel pressure...Talk at you later...

1 people found this helpful.
10

Okay Rowefast, I have your update on my issue, but first, let me say this. I was an Army helicopter mechanic, and wheeled vehicle mechanic for 20+ years. I was always told, and always told my soldiers, "take your time, triple check your work, and be 10% smarter than the equipment that you are working with or on. That being said, I did not heed my own mantra. Here was the problem. 1: I had the distributor out of time by 180 degrees. 2: ( and most embarrassing) I did NOT reconnect the ICM connectors. After "Correctly" setting the distributor, and plugging in the connectors, Ole Big Red fired right up. In closing, let me say thank you! Your thoughts and comments made me think about the problem and led me in the right direction to solving this issue. Merry Christmas and/or Happy Haunaka / Happy Quansa, and thanks again.

223,755

Well thank you! That started my day off very nicely. It is rewarding for me to be able to help, more than you know. I just love it... I find no matter how smart a persons may be, we all have our days. Thank you for your comment. Have a great weekend!

905

how many miles are on vehical? also have you ever changed the fuel filter and pump? check to hear fuel pump, fuel pump relays go bad.. is it manual trans or automatic?

905

people think fuel pumps are either good or bad, well i disagree... then why is it you can pound on tank to get it going? clogged fuel filters will burn out a pump also or weaken them.

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