Rear window don't roll down

The window switches in them old Saab’s go bad. It’s probably just the door switch if it’s multiple windows at once. Check eBay for replacement switch. If you have some electrical know how, you might be able to just clean the connections and test all switches and motors. A light up tester works wonders here. Professional diagnosis and new parts will cost you. These parts burn out or sometimes they’re just dirty. You can usually pop the door switches out without taking the panel off. YouTube is your friend here.

I took the switch panel off and cleaned it real good with a wire brush and all the brass connectors I will try to replace the panel thanks

Possibly faulty relays, that's what my problem was. There are 6 relays associated with window operation on a 2002 9-3 se convertible. They are located behind the plastic trim side walls either side of the back seat. There's 3 on each side, and the relays serve the windows of the side they are located...make sense ? There's loads of good write ups on the forums etc about removing the panels themselves so I won't go into that, but once you've got the panels off, you'll see the relays mounted in a plastic frame. Theyre identical looking, black, about 2 inches tall, but they each have different part numbers, identified by its function on a white label on the top of each one (e.g. Saab part number 50 38 609, relay number 3, left rear window) and they serve separate unique functions (they're not your bog standard relays, they are "smart" relays i.e. They've got a chip in them that's programmed to respond to specific command said from the 'puter. They aren't fully interchangeable, by which I mean you can't just take the left rear window relay out and plug it in to try it in place of the right rear window, as it won't work...well, it will work, but it's not as straightforward as swap them and try it....remember what I said about being programmed ? It's like this....if you take the left rear window relay out (assuming that you know you don't have a problem with the left rear window) and swap it over to the right rear window relays position, it WILL work, but only if you operate the LEFT switch ! Confused ? Sounds a bit crazy but it's a bit of Black Saabery and it's the serial bus programming that's responsible....basically, the relay, having been programmed to respond to the 'puter signal, will only respond to when the puter gets the correct input signal i.e. From the left rear window switch in this case......it kind and talks back to the puter and says "what ? You want me to open THIS window ? Well, ok, whatever.." and it does what it's told to do and goes right ahead and opens or closes the right rear window ! Not saying that this is your problem though, this is just to help you along the way if you do get that far. There's another thing that you need to be aware of....when you operate any of the window switches, it's not just as simple as a switch sending power directly to a relay which in turn powers the motor. The routing of the signal is via the soft top controller (STC) ....know when you put your soft top down, one of the things that happens, or should happen, is that the STC will partially lower the rear windows, just as it starts the operation of moving the soft top, right ? Well, that means that it becomes part of the whole window operation circuitry, so it can kinda get in e way of things. Luckily, it's located right in the same compartment as the relays, 2 plastic nuts holding it on to the bodywork In my recent troubles, which weren't all that different to yours, my rear window wouldn't go down at all. Checked it all out electrically an found that I had a constant 12 volt supply going to the window motor all the time. Fortunately, I have a diagnostic tool and I could see in the software that the switch state was changing its logic (on/off) state , so the switch was ok ... if you don't have access to a diagnostic tool, then bear in mind that what the switch ultimately does, is to switch the power on and off to the relay coil, so you should hear and feel the relay clicking as the coil moves and changes the relay contacts over. If you've got a constant 12 volts (you can measure it with a multimeter across the coil contacts), then there's a couple of different scenarios you can look at: 1) identify what is giving a constant "command" to the coil. It can be the switch, but also it could be the STC. If you unplug the STC, then it sure isn't going to be giving any kinda command, so you can rule that out ...dose it make any difference to the presence of a constant 12 volts ? Operate the switch ...does tha make a difference ? If not, then the issue lies with the relay itself. With a conventional (non-smart) relay, it can be very common for contacts to basically weld together so that the circuit is constantly made (closed). What makes life difficult with these saab relays is the smart bit..i.e. The chip ! They're not repairable, it's a changeout that's required, and they're pretty scarce. They are available on fleabay, but I'm not that confident in fleabay as a source of parts, too many dodgy sellers there. I was put on to a really good place in the uk, by a very reputable saab dealer, and I have to say that I found the guy really good to deal with (and cheaper than anything I saw on fleabay ! He's got a website https://rawsaab.com And he does postage. Specialises in pre-2003 9-3 used and tested spares. Hope this info is of some help to you, sorry it's so long winded but there's nothing straightforward about saabs, as I'm sure you already know...best of luck !