what is wrong when my car doesn't have power and won't go over 20-25 mph?

Is it a reputable shop? The car shouldn't have left their shop if it wasn't fixed right. That said, your car might be in limp mode - meaning the throttle control is limited if a 'throttle fault' if detected. you should have the car scanned for DTC (trouble codes) to determine what is causing it to be in limp mode (assuming it is).

I'm not sure. I spent $600+ for a crank sensor and a coil pack and when I pick the car up, the man said he test drove it and everything was fine. then as soon as I got onto the road I noticed I didn't have any power and it never acted like that before. I took it back and the guys were very rude about it and I didn't want to leave it there and spend more money on things that weren't needed. I believe that ripped me off and made me pay for stuff I didn't need and in the process of putting those parts in, they messed something up.

Hi!does anyone have answer for TabbyB02,because I have same problem on my 2000 Saab 9-5?had a new turbo installed and engine filter box.car will not go over 25 mph and makes a swooo sound if pedal is pushed past 25 mph....Thanks

Electrical issues can be a "rabbit" to chase down. However, the first place to check is the battery and see if its hold a charge or is it draining. If its below 13 volts then 1 or 2 things (the battery is defective or you have a bad diode in the alternator or alternator has simply stopped). A bad diode in the starter will cause the battery to drain and come morning you have nothing. The other and least looked at is the Anti Theft module. The module contains 3 batteries and controls your fob. If this is defective or not working then your fob will not function and you have to unlock manually. The defective ATS will also draw power overnight. What you are describing sounds like a fuel pump issue. When a foreign item is put in (the turbo) the computer has to be reprogrammed to recognize it ... this is called flashing and its done by a GM dealer in North America or any import car shop. If the computer is not "flashed / reprogram" then a higher voltage is sent throughout the car and the car internal monitoring system sense a fault and tries to protect the car (limp mode)

I have a 2001 Saab 95 2.3T and have gone through these similar issues. I have spoken to the SAAB in Europe when I first got the car and they sent me a complete diagnostic book on known issues. The scary part is Saab is a "jet fighter" manufacture...makes me wonder...are their fighters built the same...

My 2008 9-5 lost power suddenly at 70 mph but got me to a parking lot bucking severely. Had codes P0130 (O2 sensor), P0300 (misfires), and P1300 (catalyst). Mechanic estimated 1-2K to replace converter so I took it home and spent more time reading what it could be than to fix it. A few minute inspection yielded a separation between main air intake hose and the intake. Reseated hose and reclamped and problem fixed. Look for hose and easy problems first.

Unplug the battery terminal and hold the two connector wires together while the battery is unplugged for 5 mins. Then you tighten them up which when starting the motor again your engine light should go off so enjoy having horse power again. FYI just happened to me tonight with my Saab. The issues that eventually needs attending too is the throttle body.