Blinking Cruise Control Light and sollid Check engine light

So what was the code? I am just guessing here....P0442 SUBARU - Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction... Possible causes - Missing or loose fuel cap - Incorrect fuel filler cap used - Fuel filler cap remains open or fails to close - Foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap - EVAP canister or fuel tank leaks - EVAP system hose leaking - Fuel tank leaking... The P0442 code means that the control module has detected a small leak in the Evaporative Emission (EVAP). Loose fuel tank filler cap is the most common cause that triggers the P0442 code......P0445 SUBARU - Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Shorted... Possible causes - Faulty Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge Solenoid Control - Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge Solenoid Control harness is open or shorted - Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge Solenoid Control circuit poor electrical connection.

The most common code in this Subie iteration is PO420: cat conv insufficiency. SOA will reflash ECM, and if unsuccessful, may replace front cat assy under extended recall. If not it's financially prudent to ignore it, asa cheaper aftermarket cats do NOT work. Second most common I see are misfire codes (PO301-4) from an ignition wire that's wet or dressed too closely to the intake manifold ground field. Oily plugs from seepage through the valve cover gaskets can be a culprit. (Note that your OE NGK plats are infamous for losing their anodes, so be just jump up to any decent iridium to outlast your car.) So as Ro said: what's the code?

gaskets=seals.

SubaruGuruBoston...I have the code in the car I will check and message back later. All information is very helpful.

2011 Subaru Outback 2.5i with same issue. CEL and VSC lights on steady. Cruise control and BRAKES blinking, AT oil temp blinking after I drive a few hundred yards. Had a guy at Autozone replace my low and high beams a week ago. Gas tank on empty/red yesterday. Filled it with portable gas container. Oil low today. Had oil and filter done today. Checked gas cap. Seems okay. Had codes pulled at Autozone. PO700 Transaxle Control System (MIL Request), P2764 Lock -up duty solenoid circuit (Low), Any help gratefully accepted

First check ATF level. THEN drain and refill with 3.5 qts clean ATF; erase codes. Report back.

can these lights be ignored for a little while or will it cause permanent damage? Error for me is wrong gas cap used after the original was lost

It all depends what the codes are. I was told that mine was to do with the valve body as well as a locked solenoid. Advised not to drive it and get it seen by Subaru for bulletin recall. Full diagnostic done at Brewster Subaru. Valve body and diagnostic done next day. All lights off, and car running well. So to answer your question, not worth taking the chance as the CVT could get more damage than needed.

LSC (and Daniel): your post seems to be a more generic question unrelated to the CVT. If indeed your CEL et al was caused by the gas cap error then you CAN indeed drive ad infinitum without any risk. The CEL may self-erase after the 4th start following using a good vapor-locking gas cap, or require either a battery disconnect...or even erasing by any cheap scanner. But as Daniel said, it's a good idea to scan the CEL to see if there's another code locked in memory before clearing the ECM.

After an AUTOMATIC CAR WASH this ALSO happened IMMEDIATELY with my 2014 Outback "Subaru Outback 2.5i with same issue. CEL and VSC lights on steady. Cruise control and BRAKES blinking, AT oil temp blinking" happened". I got CODES 700, 842 and 420. If something was got too wet in the car wash, could clearing the codes take care of this so I can be on my way?

Probably. Might take some drying in the hot sun?

I AM FRUSTRATED WITH ALL THE ANSWERS!!

Try meditation?

Same thing with my 2008 liberty, used cruise control then went to car wash today then drove approximately 60 km's, now flashing cruise control light and solid check engine light

Something got wet. I'd leave the hood open all day, with battery disconnected to see if the CEL self-clears. If not, drive three times to self-clear. If not, then read and clear the CEL with a generic OBD2 scanner and see what happened. My guess is that you have/had a PO30x for a simple wet wire that caused a momentary misfire. Only takes a millisecond duration event from wetness to set the CEL light (and associated cruise blinker just for inconvenience!).

My 2006 Outback's check engine (solid) and cruise (blinking) come on after heavy rains in warm weather always in August in Minnesota. Is there a quick home fix for this or do I have to pay 60 bucks every time to have it scanned and cleared?

Either one of your 4 ignition wires is dressed too closely to metalware OR your coil has a crack. Buy a decent cheap scanner and read the code. You'll probably see a PO30x, where x=1-4, indicating the suspect wire. Redress all wires away from metal anyway. If same misfire code reflashes try interchanging that wire with its mate on that side. If the misfire code changes to the subsequent cylinder then you know you have a bad wire. BUT if the same cylinder misfires you may have a bad (or oil-soaked) plug. If the misfire code randomly travels around the 4 cylinders then the coilpack is shorting to ground because it's cracked. If you've checked all the wires and all the plkugs and a singular misfiring cylinder persists then you have a bad internal valve, which is a $1500 head rebuild chore. But that's pretty rare.

My 06 impreza 2.5i wagon also does the solid check engine and blinking cruise. Normally when I'm on the highway is when it comes on going around 50-60mph.....got it checked and it came back. It only disables my cruise control, but I've ignored it and it just goes away after awhile. ‍♀️

My 2004 Subaru outback has a flashing cruise control light and a solid check engine light advanced auto wouldn't tell me the code but said it had something to do with my catalytic converter or upstream sensor does that mean I can't drive the car? How do I know exactly what it is?

My 2007 Subaru Outback has a solid engine light on, cruise flashes and it smells like gas in the car.

So read the CEL and look for cold-start dripping fuel just below the two small rubber fuel line connectors on the top of the front of the motor, as their clamps are probably loose.

Whenever the engine light comes on the “cruise” control will flash so you don’t try to use it. It could be that you just need dark plugs or points.

My 2012 STI was perfectly fine until we put a spacer in the muffler. Then my check engine light and ABS light came on, and my cruise control and Sport mode lights started flashing. It all started the next day. My codes read something about an air pump and muffler problems. The sti had a recall, which I had fixed at the dealership a few days ago. And we put the muffler properly back on. But I'm still getting the same lights and codes. We clear them once in a while but I don't have the money right now to get it fixed or even see what it is going on. Anyone had a similar problem after messing with the muffler or anything?

What's the CEL code?

Does anybody's cruise work while that's happening?... Mine doesn't. 2008 Outback. Tried gas cap trick, but no luck... Subie Guru... any thoughts on that?

Subaru links a blinking cc bulb to the CEL just to provide extra visual warning; that it disables the cc function is just a byproduct of this scheme.

Ok. Thanks. I had a diagnostics run today. The code was P2096: Leaking fuel injector or fuel pressure regulator. Faulty MAF sensor. High fuel pressure. Or Failed heated O2 sensor. The guy said it's common that that code comes up if the injectors are clogged. He sold me a bottle of Lucas Injector cleaner. I added it to my full tank of gas and within 10 miles the lights went off.

Hmmm...good. But I wonder if it's either a leaky manifold or exhaust gasket before the rear O2. IOW it may recur if the intermittent leak is sealed by temperature or chance. I haven't seen clogged injectors in 2000-2009 era 2.5s.

How can I find out if that is tha case?

Well, start by driving s'more. If the pattern repeats maybe try a bottle of Techron in a full tank of premium fuel and see if the problem dissipates. Note that if it recurs every time the tank is below 1/4 full then you might have lots of water and garbage in the tank. But if the fuel's good and the problem persists get under the car and look for exhaust leaks.

oh boy, this just happened to me on my 2011 2.5 outback sport. just got gas as i was driving on empty, refilled and hopped back on highway to head to Maine. traction control and check engine lights are on and cruise control is blinking. Seems to drive otherwise alright. re- tightened my gas cap. I don't have the ability to check codes. Ernie i see you are in medford, i am too! help!

You'll have to have the code read somewhere. If you're home ask my backup wrenches at Alewife Auto on Rte 16 to perform a free scan for you. Maybe your cap WAS loose and the ECU simply needs to have that prior fault code erased from memory. Takes only 2 minutes.

Thanks for the response, i got it read at autozone yesterday, but they told me their reader was broken and could only read one code, so if there were multiple codes i wouldn't be able to tell... anyways, i got a P0031 error - which i found it is related to the O2 sensor. i checked fuses just to be sure. maybe i need a new O2 sensor? I'll see about getting into Alewife auto soon to have them take a look as well. i'll keep you posted. thanks!

I love that this thread has been going for what? two years? We just bought an ‘06 legacy 2.5i L for our new driver in the family. Had it a week no issues and then he drove about 70 miles yesterday and somewhere during the drive the CEL came on solid with the CC blinking. He’s on his way home now and we will be heading to autozone to get the code checked and report back.

2012 Subaru Outback-I was driving about 60 mph and the check engine light came on and traction light and the cruise control and brake light started blinking. I tried taking the gas cap on and off no luckily. I saw some things on here about checking a fuse, any specific ones i need to check.

Got code results PO456-evaporative emission system leak detected (very small leak) gas cap?

P0172 code with Check Engine light, blinking cruise control and Traction Control light on. Going to replace the air filters see what that does. If that doesn't help, I'm going to replace the MAF sensor and see what that does. They all came on at the same time when I was driving today, seemingly out of the blue. I haven't had any other issues besides a tire pressure light on. I checked and filled all the tires. Rechecked a few days later. Pretty sure that one of the tire pressure sensors is bad but I haven't gotten around to it as it doesn't seem that important. Any ideas on this on? Will report back with results of filter and MAF.

Follow up to my previous post. P0172 code cleared following MAF swap and system reboot. Since then I have put 3000+ miles on the car and there have been no recurring issues.

Cruise control begins to flash and check engine light comes on and i can't accelerate past 25 mph. Unhooking the battery seems to reset it and is fine for a week or two then goes back to doing it. 2006 Subaru legacy. Any ideas at what may be causing this?

Elizabeth. Take your car to a car parts store and ask them to read the trouble codes. Post the codes in a New thread and I will try to help.

As will I...or just Goggle the POxxx code and you'll get a hint. I'm guessing initially a PO420 from an "insufficient cat conv efficiency", a chronic code from that era that's not worth ($1200-1400) fixing.

2008 Subaru Outback Sport. I just had my check engine light come up (solid), cruise control flashing, anti-skid solid. Pressing cruise control & skid buttons inside do nothing. I'm a good 45 minutes from where I'm staying tonight... I'm going to check the gas cap right now (though I've not gotten fuel since I last drove without any dashboard light issues). I had the same light issues last winter but found a stick lodged up the drivers side front, pulled that out and all was well; hoped to just find another stick this time, but no go. Per this thread, I'm going to trust that it'll be ok to get to where I'm going tonight... I'm in a tight spot - I have ZERO cash to do anything to it.. like... zero (was looking for work - then my (rental - no insurance) house burned down - now homeless - not a good "life stage" I'm working with, here, one could say). Is there another way to go about checking to see what might be wrong with it other than getting codes read? Heart in throat...

Oh - and, btw, if this is relevant: I have 68,000 miles on my car and it was in for an oil change and tune-up about six weeks ago. The stick that was wedged up the front of the car (near the grille but to the driver's side, perpendicular to the ground - the end result of an ice/snow storm, subsequent fallen tree, & difficult driveway at my house) was in February, and I've had no cruise control flashing nor solid CEL nor solid anti-skid lights on from the time I yanked that out until now. And... Of *possible* relevance - it's been super hot during the day for the last week, 85 - 100 degrees during the day, and I've been running AC intermittently. That said, I noticed the lights tonight when I was on the highway, driving *after* I'd been parked for an hour and change.. The temp had dropped significantly with the setting sun, and I wasn't running the AC at the time. (I add this because I don't think anything is wet.)

You can most probably STOP fretting! Most late noughts CELs are now related to either the feared but innocuous PO420 (catalytic converter insuufficiency: no driving affects), or perhaps a PO30x in damp weather (misfire from ignition wire shorting intermittently againt metal; car will mis and stumble under low rpm acceleration...must repair, but it's free!). Check the CEL (it's free at many shops) and see what's up. If it's the PO420 check with Subaru to see if you qualify for a free catalytic converter. If not, just ignore the CEL and live with it. But if it's a PO30x you might want to carefully re-dress the ignition wires to stay at least a 1/4" away from metalware anywhere in their runs from the coilpack to the plug boots. If a PO30x recurs swap the wires on that head to verify that it's the wire. If so, replace that wire. If replacing the wires doesn't help replace the coilpack itself, after checking the plug boot for a tear or rupture (free). Youll get this buddy, and probably at no cost. Follow up here for more advice as needed. Ern TSG/B

Thank you so very much... I pledge to stop white-knuckling. :>) I called my mechanics' shop; they're great guys, I just can't really afford anything.. and they said they'd hook it up and check the code any time, gratis ("it's what's *after* the code that we'll see if we have to worry about"). They agreed that the check engine light is not a huge deal, that it's there just to warn, mentioned even the gas cap thing, and that I'd more than likely be ok through the weekend, not to worry. When I go, either today or Tuesday, I will go armed with this information. ***TYSVM***. I'll post what the code turns out to be. :)))

Drum roll please! I went to get gas today, and though I'd monkeyed with the gas cap, I hadn't messed with the little flap thingy in there... Long story short - lights went away! Hallelujah! thanks again for your help, GuruSW818, I'll tuck it away for when it happens for 'real'... :))))

Hi, I have the same problem with the engine light on solid and the cruise control blinking. My mechanic did a smoke test and said that there was a leak somewhere around the intake gas pipe which needs to be replaced along with the section at the entrance to where you put gas in. This will be a $400. job. I've not read in any of these answers anything like this. Any ideas or suggestions?

Hi, I forgot to mention that I have a 2008 subaru forester. I've had this problem twice in the recent month. My mechanic said to make sure my gas cap was on tight. That seemed to fix it. I'm thinking rather than invest over $400. to have things replaced, I should replace the gas cap first and see if that fixes the problem.

The caps rarely fail. Just tighten normally with each fill-up.

Had my 2010 Forrester to shop today.My guy is 75 and runs his own shop. Code came up #4 cylinder misfiring. Changed plugs and all OK 114000KM

Common with the fragile platinum OEM plugs used until 2013. I hopoe he put in the newer iridiums for you. So far they NEVER fail. Good luck. Ern TSG/B

Blinking cruise control light and check engine light solid. It was a bad fuse. Easy fix as it happened when the Les Schwab tire dealer was changing out battery. They put in new fuse and good to go.

Solid CEL and blinking CC code popped up P2006 for intake manifold runner control stuck closed bank 1A. I dont even know where to start on this one

It may have opened. Clear code and drive to see if it repeats.

Code immediately came back on ive been doing fuel treatments every other fill up to clean any carbon buildup and still nothing code is still on

You may have junk blocking the line, or a failing injector. I'd pull the injectors on that #1 bank and clean them. Actually, I'd pull the FRONT two off and switch their places. If the code goes to P2007 then you know it was the injector on 1 that failed. If 2006 recurs try swapping REAR injectors. If code 2007 recurs then it was the rear side one injector. If the code 2006 recuurs re of injector swap then it's a problem with the line itself. PITA, I know... Good luck. Ern TSG/B

Do you think the solenoid needs replaced? Maybe even the actuator? I looked at the vacuum lines and they look perfectly fine. Im going crazy trying to figure this issue out.

How does it run?

It runs good other than going through gas pretty quicker than normal, it does seem to lag a little in lower gears like im towing something.

Yeah, there may be fuel blockage in the line. Have a wrench check flow at each injector when idling. Kind of a messy job, so try not to spill, nor breathe, fuel.

Also: no misfire codes (PO3001-4)?

Thanks ill have my dad help me look into the injectors. the more im researching the more im finding out about the injectors thanks so much ill keep in touch!

Geez...be careful to NOT "look into the injectors" unless they're unplugged!

Same thing happened to me...2009 Subaru Outback 179k...throwing codes for all 4 cylinders misfiring. Also has a flag for EVA system not ready. Went to pass someone, floored it, RPMs went up, car lurched and check engine light came on, started flashing, then went solid and cruise started flashing. I cleared the codes but am not sure where to start troubleshooting. Any advice?

It seems to run fine otherwise...just doesn't do well under load?

Update: I cleared the codes and went for a drive, and all is well until it goes under heavy throttle. Got the check engine light again. Now also throwing a code for catalyst inefficient.

Any other codes? A PO420 (cat insufficiency) shouldn't cause a WOT bog unless it's actually plugged up. Sometimes a bog is caused by a bad MAF sensor connection or loose clamp around there. Codes???

It's throwing codes for catalyst inefficient and also misfires on all cylinders.

Ok. First things first: 1. replace plugs with new iridium type, wiping any oil off the cable boots 2. Inspect cables for cuts 3. Inspect and clean coil-pack connections for corrosion. 4. If ALL 4 misfire codes recur replace coil as it's probably cracked internally If only ONE PO300x misfire code shows up replace THAT ignition wire. 5. If cables are 10yrs old (orig) I'd get some nice cheap NDK blues ($40) in there with the new iridiums, so that if you have a misfire you'll know it's the coil...or rarely a bad valve seal and need to pull the head to repair. Good luck. Ern TSG/B

2006 outback solid CEL and blinking CC lights came on after getting fuel have read the codes yet but I'm pretty sure its fuel cap.

Ambiguous post. Please restate.

Codes read p0420 and 0700

Thanks to all on here for your previous posts and helpful hints. My 2010 Outback 4cyl just passed 103,500miles. I had the 103K mile service done about a month ago and all was well. A tank of gas can last me a month or more b/c I am a full time work from home, so I regularly drive until the light comes on. Saturday, at just about 1/8 tank my Brake/Cruise/Traction/Check Engine lights came on and terrified me! Thanks to this board, I checked my gas cap - which was not as tight as I'd expected it to be, then fueled up. At first, there was no change but when I started my car again in the morning, all of the lights had cleared. Such Relief!!! Thanks to all of you - the only disappointment was my husband who had been excited to disassemble my battery and my Mass Flow Air Sensor....

RE: upcoming post: WHAT? NEVER let your husband "disassemble the battery"!! Huge subsequent skin grafts and probable blindness will ensue; it's a pretty bad way to go. The MAF sensor is just a bit fragile, and not dangerous, but indeed, leave it alone too. Seriously, removing and thoroughly cleaning battery posts and clamps is NOT a bad idea...especially on a decade old Subie. Scrub 'em with baking soda if caked up. Replace the brass clamp if broken with any cheap alloy one. Nice Interstate batteries are now cheap at Costco, and my standard stock item. Pray your CVT holds up, and don't go replacing your timing belt unless actually cracked or oily (easy inspection for hubby and his 10mm wrench). Cheers. (Disclaimer: I service and resell 2016+ OB/Legs in the Boston area.)

just got a used subaru WRX 2018 check engine light comes on with a flashing cc light.

Good for you! Get a cheap scanner and read it....

Ugh. I drove 15 miles today and the lights came back on 1/4 mile from home. What next?

I let the car sit 2 nights , started this morning and all the lights came back on we disconnected/ reconnected the battery and the codes cleared. My mechanic is not close by so I’m hoping this fix will stick for a bit

Read the code...just like before. Report back CEL code.

I just got a 2006 Subaru Impreza (outback) w/ manual transmission and 155000 miles. I was teaching my two new drivers how to drive a stick and when my son did a clutch start the check engine light came on solid and the cruise light started blinking. It went out later that night. It came on to stay during my 1200 mile move to TX. I took it to the Subaru dealers service department and they said I needed to get the Catalytic converter replaced for $1700. I just took it to AutoZone to look at the codes myself. They came back with P1518 Starter switch circuit (OFF) and P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). Their system says that the most likely solution is to replace the Starter Assembly for $107-$150 (parts only). My question is which should I do? Might it be both? Is their a way to check, definitively, before I start throwing money at possible solutions? I have had this for about a week and a half so I don’t know if it is running rough or if the start takes longer than normal.

Subies don't eat starters, but they DO wear out the Siamesed solenoid's copper contact set. You can remove the starter, its solenoid and easily replace these contacts (about $15?). But I wouldn't bother unless you have intermittent cranking (not related to a weak battery of course). Sometimes a non-crank is due to a bad cam or crank sensor. One way to discriminate is to whack the starter with a hammer. If it perhaps then starts it's probably the solenoid's old, dirty and worn down internal contacts. The ubiquitous P0420 code can often be ignored if there are no drivability problems. The CAT simply overheats due to fuel formulas not within the tight range specified by PZEV limits. Do NOT try to sandwich in there an aftermarket CAT...it won't work. Indie wrenches can buy the front assy for about $1200 and bolt it up in under an hour. Thousands of owners have learned to ignore the P0420 until emissions inspection time, then erase it and hope to drive enough to reboot all sensors before the code reflashes. Around here (Mass) it's an annual annoying ritual. Your '06 Imp is one of my favorite Imp era (2006-7), but having a torquey 2.5i DOES mean it rips up clutches easily if not started from stop very serenely (never above 1500rpm). It is absolutely critical to teach your newbies to learn to de-clutch WITHOUT throttle...learning to feather off the clutch at idle speed until fully released. This teaches humility, and results in a LOT of embarrassing stalling and bucking bronco behavior, but the reward is GREATLY extended clutch life. Once mastered they're fairly easy to drive, and can "roll" through soft stops in 2nd gear without declutching...but that's Level 2 learning. Have fun.

Hey SubaruGuruBoston, I have a 2006 OB XT with 128k miles. Was driving around 45-50 today when the CEL came on solid, CC light flashed, and Er HC displayed above the odometer. Took it to Autozone to quickly get the codes read; the only code it came up with is P0600: Serial Communication Link. I looked through this thread and didn't find any clues or questions involving that code. Any ideas?

Forgot to respond...sorry! Passenger floor carpet get soaked? Regardless, peel it back from the front top to expose the ECM underneath. Carefully unplug the main harnesses and clean them if wet or dirty. Gently spray-lube the contacts and securely and fully reattach. Erase the code (of course) and drive normally. Maybe it won't reoccur. Good luck.

I respect the knowledge you have shared along with the numerous people you have helped over all of this time @TheSubaruGuruBoston. I just purchased a used 2008 Subaru Impreza with the 2.5L. i purchased it knowing it had some minor problems... but i dont know where to begin when trying to start to diagnose.. It has the following codes. P0134 02 sensor CKT no Activity (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P0030 H02S Bank 1 Sen 1 Heater Circuit The car accelerates then pulls back, accelerates, pulls back its almost like a.. i little hard to explain here... like a negative power surge that happens in waves... : Picture a sine wave with every bottom being a loss in power not too much of a loss but a loss at that. The other symptom is a strange sound that ultimately is linked to the rpms. the sound is similar to a rotational based, small rocks in a tin can? or a heat shield vibration like sound or a bad bearing (timing tensioner pulley?) i cant pinpoint exactly the source of this sound...but with the hood up and a helper revving the vehicle in spurts.. gas pedal 3/4 down for about 2 seconds it is located when looking from the front of the vehicle, the passenger side of the motor almost up and under where you cannot see. tomorrow i will get up under it and do the same Procedure with a helper revving the gas to see if i can pin point the exact location if it. Any and ALL help is GREATLY appreciated! Tysvm, Aaron.

Replace that O2 sensor and THEN listen for that incompletely-described noise, which might just be knocking from errant timing due to the bad sensor. First things first. Let us know what transpires.

The previous owner bought a H02 off of ebay, and i guess it came with two so there is a new one in the glove box. i will have to contact him more about that. but as for the noise, i did a horrible job describing it but i recorded it and uploaded it to my google so i could share the link so here it is. https://drive.google.com/file/d/15FzWCi67-_M8uPWnJk- KOU7eVNG5sipC/view? usp=sharing

Ok so my daughter has a 06 outback. Had the flashing cc light and solid CEL. Had her take it to O'Riley's and have it scanned. There was no codes present according to the guy who scanned it. Had her disconnect the battery and cleared the lights. Came back on later in the evening. That was all yesterday. Today she was on the highway and called and said it is stuttering / bogging down when it shifts into 4th gear. I'm at a loss since there was no codes and she is 4 hours away and I can't drive it. Any places to start checking when she gets back home around the 11th of May?

My 2009 Subaru Outback Plus was working fine until last week (July 2021) when the Vehicle Stability OFF (traction control) and the Check Engine lights came on solid and the Cruise Control light started blinking all at the same time. What? After checking out many online posts, I checked my gas cap and it was indeed loose! (My wife decided to have the fuel filled up and a harassed young gas pump attendant had not tightened the cap as he was running between four different customers.) I tightened the cap until it ratcheted a couple of times and started up the car. The three lights were still lit up. I waited a few days and while the car was running fine, the lights didn't go out by themselves so I detached the negative lead on the battery for five minutes, reconnected it and started the car and Voilà! the three lights were off and the car was back to normal including cruise control. So thank you to all the posters who suggested the loose gas cap issue and the battery contact fix! Saved me a ton of worry about facing an expensive fix!

So what happened Ricky?

OK ... today the CHECK ENGINE light, the ABS light, and the Cruise Control (flashing) came on in my 2011 Subaru Sport Wagon. I read just about every comment on this blog to find answers. Long story short ... my brilliant farmer/rancher husband winnowed down the ideas from the many posters to this blog and went out to the pole barn, uninstalled the battery in my Subie, power cleaned the air filter (which was beyond filthy ... we drive a rural dirt/gravel road ) and reinstalled the battery. Started the car ... all lights are off. I love my husband. He is magic.

Hi all, I have seen the CEL+blinking cruise thing a few times in my 2008 Outback, but today, I had blinking cruise with NO CEL. Anyone know what that means?

Check for a code anyway, in the case the CEL bulb burned out. If no code then maybe you're one of the really rare owners with a CC defect. Congrats! Never seen one before.

Thanks Ernest - the blinking light cleared up on its own, and there was no code. Will monitor. I get the airbag light on quite a bit too. My local dealership tells me that this is often related to buggy electronics in the overhead console which they are willing to replace for 300$ + labour. Perhaps the electronics in my car are gremlin-infected...

Neil, you jogged my memory: Remove the roof console and resolder the obvious flat resistor joints, as one or two can crack open after years of jiggling. Easy peasy. Use a 40w iron or a 100w one with extreme care. If you blow it this is an easy $30-50 salvage part.