My car won't start, it says to remove my key

yes....despite the NEW battery, they failed to wirebrush clean the lug that attaches to the frame...and the frame....this still needs to be done....undo the bolt...break out a coarse wirebrush and clean both surfaces....lug and chassis....bolt together....and be just in time for your samba lesson~

The same has happen to my car 2008 C350. 3 Month ago the car won't start I got it towed to the mechanic once it got off the tow truck it started. Later to this month it wont start and doing the same. I turn the key but noting. Now the steering wheel isn't locking, windows wont work nor the radio. I called some mechanic at the Mercedes place and he said it's the Steering Column issue is the most common issue. I'm still verifying it.

First you need to have your key programmed. If that doesn't work I would recommend putting it on a STAR diagnostic to get a code. My professional experience says its most likely your EIS(unit that you put the key in)

Mine did the same. Take it to a dealer. Stop trying to figure it out. It is the switch. It will cost you around 1200 to replace because of the computer system.

My 2010 C300 has been towed 5 times in 3 years as it won't start. Today, first warm and humid day - call the tow truck. The dealer has no idea !!

I have experienced the same issue as well. Today i found out that there is a recall on a cam solenoid for C models 06-10. I just had mines replaced... hopefully this fixed the issue. JAnthony, what was your outcome ? Thanks

I have merc C200 all was working fine and my son put my key in cuppa tea, I had taken apart and dried then it worked. Following day nothing it wouldn't unlock the car or go in the ignition. Went to Mercedes changed battery nothing, ordered new key and again nothing they ordered another I case faulty and still nothing but tried my old key and all of a sudden it works the ignition but not the door locks. I'm confused as my car worked perfectly fine before my son put keys in cuppa tea so why wouldn't a new key from Mercedes work?

We just had the same issue!! Had the key checked, then the battery, both were good! It was a $3.00 fuse!! Thank God!! :-)

I have a 2008 c300 4 matic The other night when i left work it would not start, dead, I waited 15 min. It started right up and has been fine so far???

I had the same situation today with my 2009 C300, just remove the metal part of the key and try to start the car without it (just the key without the metal part). Worked 100% for me. Good Luck

nunoq15 what metal part?

dusty what fuse did you change?

don what fuse did you guys change?

Just happened to me. I had to call my buddy, and he went home and grabbed my extra key. Worked like a charm

Yah wat fuse I'm having the same issue ....my car worked fine

Having same problem ç300 anyone have any suggestions jumper cables not working

2007 C230 sport. I had same issue. The same fault. What I did was take my finger and put it where the key switch goes. Press into switch and slightly turn to the right as if starting. Remove finger and now put your key in and turn. The switch is spring toggled when key is in place. Sometimes the spring doesn't reset. This worked for me. Good luck.

ICONHUSTLE- Did the lights still come on even tho wouldnt start?

I have a 2007 MB 230CSport. It sat in the garage for 1 week. When I went to start it, it was completely dead ,no lights unable to move shifter out of Park... I called Road Side Assistance from MB South Orland; he jumped it right away with his commercial Jump Start box. I let it run for about 15 mins and drove it around the block a couple times.and turned it off. I then tried to start it and again stone dead. RSA was onlty a few miles away so i called him back and he restarted it. This time I drove it to a town 20 miles away andf then back. That seemed to work as the car started up every day. Again, I had the car parked in garage for 3 days w/o starting and again u=it would not start so I called RSA and he started it up again. The battery was replaced less than 6 mos ago. I think there must be a drain on the battery yet no light ext or int were left on. MB said the battery cells were strong... What next?

Make sure your lights are set on auto. If you try to start the car several times in a short period, you will kill a battery quick. I did kill my battery but a quick jump and it was good. No issues.

My lights did come on.

I have a 2008 Mercedes C300 and have had the same issue about four times now. It is the starter relay fuse. I've been able to pop out and push back in to get car started in the past but my luck has run out. Waiting for tow now.

Dusty, what fuse did you change?

I'm having the same issue with my Mercedes Benz C300 2008-the first time I was stuck on the 12th floor and no tow truck would fit in the parking garage-we ended up rolling it down the 12 floors. The battery was so dead that the wheel wouldn't turn, the ligts went on and the dash lit up but the car just wouldn't start. The dealership charged me 500.00 for a new battery.Two months later I'm having the same issue with my car. I'm hoping it's just the battery and nothing else. I love Mercedes but I tired of this money hole. This sucker is getting traded in.

I had the same issue with my 2008 C300. The car would not start. I tried the spare key too. I took it to the dealer and it was the switch where you put your key in to start the car. it was $1800!! From what I'm reading here, this is a common issue and MB should do a recall. I called them and let them know its a common issue, and they ignored me!!

My 2009 E-350 started but then the engine stopped immediately and I tried to start it again but the engine did not crank. The battery is good . Could it be a fuse and which one?

I just had my bf change my battery (he bought from Walmart that said it would work) in my 2008 C300 and now the car won't start, won't shift out of park, windows/sunroof won't roll down... :'(

Can anybody say what fuse they changed that ultimately fixed their issue?

I have a c300 2010 and won't start I check my battery and all it said take key out from engine. What could be the problem.

I have the same issue. My car is at the dealer now, so i'm waiting for the diagnostic. It may be the ignition, or the wheel lock failure or a fuse issue according to some.

I'm currently having the same problem right now. It happened once about a month ago. I took the battery off just to try and reset the whole car, still didn't work. I got it towed to my house, and the next morning I tried to start it again, and ur started right up like nothing ever happened. I just ignored it, and now I'm having the same problem again. Car won't start, windows won't roll, lights won't turn on, and radio is completely dead, but dash lights and door lights (just the red lights on doors) still turn on. I test the battery and it still has a lot of juice in it. It maybe some sort of relay, cause I can hear a little relay switch making a noise behind the dash, but I'm not sure what it is

Yeah I had the same symptoms. Is your Gear shifter stuck in park also?

Yes it's stuck. I can't shift it at all. This is the second time this happened. I know for sure it's not the battery. All it says on the dash is remove your keys.

Yeah sux. Mine is at the shop I'll let u know what they say in my case at least.

The first time it happened I was able to start the car the next morning tho, so maybe it is the EIS like everyone says. If it's not the EIS that reads the key, then everything should work. The fucked up thing about it is that this problem doesn't throw any check codes, so we can't find out what the problem really is. By the way mine is a 2009 c300 with 70k miles

Please do let me know what your issue is, so I can probably just bring in my car to MB instead of sitting around trying to figure out what's wrong

I will for sure because I know this sucks. Do u have a second key by chance? Did u try it?

No i never got a second key. I should of, but I really don't think it's the key since many people have the same issues as we do, and it always end up being the EIS. I did bought new batteries for my remote to test if it was just low on battery, but that wasn't the problem either. It still didn't work. Jumped the battery just to see, that wasn't the problem either. I'm a mechanic myself, so I'm pretty familiar with other issues besides this. I'm thinking it's the key, if not, then it's the ignition column that is not reading the key.

Oh ok... Well you have more know how than I do as I'm nowhere near a mechanic so we'll see what happens. I'll keep u updated.

Ok i got my car to start now again. Now I know it's not the EIS because I know it's still reads my key. I put my alarm on panic, and then I put my key in the ignition, and it killed the alarm, so I now know that my EIS and keys are still good. It still won't start and I've checked all my fuses and they are all good. So i decided to put my key in the ignition and at the same time wiggled my steering wheel hard and start it at the same time. VIOLA that worked! Car dies right away. I repeated what I did, wiggled the steering wheel hard at the same time turning the key. VIOLA it started again and finally stayed on. Now I can start it without having to wiggle the steering wheel. So I'm guess it's a bad steering column that needs to be replace now.

I can't believe a steering column can stop a car from starting

Does the car keep dying or was that just initially?

When I turn the steering wheel down as I start the car, it started for a quick second and then died instantly. I tried to start it again without turning the steering wheel, nothing happened and was pretty much dead like before. So i turn the steering wheel again while starring the car, it fired right up and I let it ran for a few minutes. Shut it off and after that it fires up every time I turn the key without having to turn the wheel

So by that it's pretty much a bad steering column that's about to go out soon, and not the EIS or the key. The only way to test the key if you only have 1 key is to put the alarm on panic, and then stick the key into the ignition. If the EIS or the key is still good, then the alarm should shut off right away. If it's a bad EIS or key, then the alarm will still be going on because it can't read the key cause either the key or EIS is bad.

Ahhhh I see. Wow happy you got it to start up atleast you can navigate better from here. Thanks for sharing.

Businessfirst27 did you find out what the problem was?

Yes Misty, sorry for the late reply. The problem for me was the ignition switch and the wheel column lock.

I had to have them both replaced.

This just happened to me, my car was working fine yesterday morning, how much was everything @business?

OK! Thank you :-)

@ spexaholic, The rape which I encountered was 2,100 for the EIS and the wheel column lock ughh I'm still sore from the sodomy. It may be only one of those things for you, so you may not have to get bruised as badly as I did. Just check to make sure your wheel column is not locked up.

My 2008 C350 battery died last year and my husband replaced it. I was out of town and never really asked him much about it. After that, I had problems (like everyone else) where the car would occasionally not start, but did seemed to have full lights and other battery functions. I just took it in and they found that "they" had installed an "after market" battery which did not exactly fit, was leaking acid and causing the problems.

2009 C300, 80k miles, died at the gas station, waiting on a tow. Been reading while I wait...tried the steering wheel thing, tried removing metal key insert, no luck. When I unlock and get in, all lights work. As soon as I put the key in, lights on the dash go out except for the center dial (speedometer). Steering wheel locked, shifter locked in park. Will tow to home and try the extra key.

My problem was the wheel column lock and the EIS (ignition switch) that may be your problem too. Those were my symptoms also.

I had all types of Mercedes an let me tell you that's the worst car ever on the market. I hate them they are good only to make the MBZ shops reach.

I have a 2010 GLK 350 and the steering wheel locked on me also, it costed me by the Mercedes dealer $ 1096.20. The thing is you have to go to the Mercedes dealer no has the code. they are making the big money like mafia.

This just happened to my wife on the car we just bought yesterday. I turned the steering wheel real hard both ways real fast and hard a few times and presto it started.

For all those asking what fuse it was, this is a known issue with (my understanding) pre 2008 C-Class models. And there is a TSB on it by MB. The fuse number is #52. MB has a 15 Amp fuse in that location, it should be switched with a 20Amp fuse. This shoud resolve most non start issues. Otherwise, and if the warning lights do not come on the dash (but the car unlocks with the remote key-fob and you can hear the alarm beep, then check to see of putting the key in the ignition will unlock your steering wheel, if it does not and the steering remains locked, then it is your ESL (Electronic Steering Lock), otherwise, most likely, it is the EIS (Electronic Ignition Switch). Hope this helps some. By the way, you will not find fuse #52 on a 2008 and newer C- Class models... For a 2008 & newer, the fuses that are related to the: Starter, 6, 7, 19, 27 Streering Lock 19, 27 Ignition Lock 19, 27 Upon checking those fuses, and assuming all of them check out OK, then again, it is most likely either ESL module, or EIS module or both. Both of those issues can only be properly diagnosed and if needed, replaced by an authorized Mercedes Benz repair center. (Reason being that MB headquarters can only trust their dealers to ensure that replacement keys are only issued to the registered owner of the vehicle. So the made key programming a proprietary program that only they can access through the MB STAR system).

When the warning tells you to remove your key, this is a Security issue. The car disengages and shuts down for security purposes. You have to turn the steering wheel which will disengage the security feature. I believe when you turned the car off the steering wheel may have turn in the wrong position.

I have a E350: When the warning tells you to remove your key, this is a Security issue. The car disengages and shuts down for security purposes. You have to turn the steering wheel which will disengage the security feature. I believe when you turned the car off the steering wheel may have turn in the wrong position.

Hey everyone. I'm sorry I didn't respond sooner with a update. My luck finally ran out with the finger trick. My car now starts when it wants too. If I fill up the car, a day later, the car won't start, same symptoms as everyone else. My car has been in the shop for 2 straight months and they have no clue. $ 2600 spent on problem of not starting and no solution yet. I'm going to try changing the #52 fuse to a 20amp instead of 15. I've tried every possible solution listed in this forum.

Hey thanks Kevin shaking the steering wheel worked for me.

Hey folks. You need to read this. The problem was a switch connector connected to the fuel pumps underneath the back seat. Merecedes knows this is a problem and they have a connector upgrade. When the back moves or shifts you get all of the above issues. For your time, money and patience, try moving the back seat and then try starting.

IconHostile, have you checked your fuel pump relay?

I got my car fixed with around $1150 paid. Steering lock is the known issue of the C300 series. The special part required will need to match your VID. It shall take you few more days to wait your car dealer to keep and fix your car. Good luck

Help. My husband car in the shop for a month. Same issues - lights on but it won't start or jump off. Has new starter and will start or not. We are so desperate. He has a mass in his pancreas. This is not helping him. Please!

If anyone is having starting issues and needs to release the automatic transmission into neutral (to tow or move the car) there is a release switch under the gear shift leather/vinyl boot... To access this switch/lever, you would simply grab the right or left edge of the boot, pull up on it to release the clips that hold it in place, and when it does pop off, look underneath it, you will see that the gear selector sits atop a small box inside the center console. On the back side of this box, there is a yellow lever which when pushed back (towards the rear of the vehicle) will unlock the gear selector allowing you to then put the transmission into neutral and roll the car, tow it or otherwise move it.

I have had similar problems 3 times now. First time, the car wouldn't start but the dash would light. I left it for a while ,for about 2 hours and when I tried again it started. it didn't give me issues for sometime then one day it would start again. Dash lit up but nothing happened. I jumped it the following day and it started. Battery was replaced 4 months ago. I used it to come to work this morning and it started properly, now, dash won't light, and car won't start. The key is able to unlock the car. It's a 2008 C350.

Mine is a 2008 C350 as well, with the same issue. Stopped at a gas station one night and went back out to start the car and nothing.. dash lights up, radio on, battery fine. After about an hour we went back to try it and it started right up so we were able to get it home. Now, nothing again. We took the metal part of the key out and still nothing. Now the dash says to remove the key, which is new, but still it won't start. :/

The problems Mercedes need engine to be clean and oil change by time to time and the problems Mercedes you need to fix that by your self only it's easy but try to test battery and alternator and test filet fuel change spark plug this important

If you want Mercedes. Start try first thing look for fuse locked door and trunk before remove fuse you cAn open the top Windows only not locked or you be have problems first thing let one Windows downs only no risk second thing you do find fuse in box for locked door and trunk close door by key first and go to the fuse remove that and back that you will hear all door open automatic that mean no security door lock when you remove fuse and back that security lock door be free to start the car

Mercedes problems alternator if not wNt start try first thing battery test and change fuel filer change spark plug and clean all place wire close to the engine mybe dirty Greece make wire not work buy spray to cleAn engine outside

On very hot days after my C300 has been parked in the sun all day, the key doesn't work. I discovered that I can spray some Dust-Off (basically compressed air in a can with propellant) into the key hole and it starts working. Spray the air for a few seconds and it gets very cold from the propellant, then direct the spray into the keyhole for a couple of seconds and it works.

I have seme problem untel to now?? I can"t find the fuse .... please help me

Had the same issue last year. Got it towed and then it started. Happened again yesterday. Came across this post and someone said to giggle the stealing wheel and it worked! Started right up. The dealer said the steering column needed to be replaced. But I'll use the giggle method until that option isn't and option no more.

My car won't start will replace key fob battery, and go from there....2007C-280

Were you able to disengage the alarm/unlock the doors with the key fob? If so, then there is no issue with the key fob battery. In fact, the battery in most newer MB key fobs powers the transmittong of the signal to lock/unlocking whereas when the key is inserted in the ignition, no power is needed to get the key identified and validated (by the CANBUS System).

@Xedus: It is not the 'steering column" but the "steering lock" which is mounted on the steering column.

What can I do to release the steering column of my 2002 E320 4Matic I am disabled and I can't afford anywhere near $1800 to $2500 to give to a Mercidies Dealership to repair I got the car 3 years ago from an older couple who do not drive anymore. It has almost 200.000 highway miles as they travelled a lot down south but the vehicle is still in very good condition.& this is the FIRST PROBLEM I HAVE HAD WITH THE CAR When I put the key in it tells me to remove key! The steering wheel is locked! I charged the battery to the max & used distilled water to top off the ones that were low.any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!!!

2008 c300 won't start. Says to remove the key. Steering wheel won't turn. Shifter locked. No brake lights. Was told it was brake light stop switch. I changed that, no go. Checked fuses, no go. Thinking eis or esl. Leaning toward els. Big azz paperweight in driveway.

Turn steering wheel while turning the key. If this doesn't work, check that your battery is fully charged.

What should the batter charge be if the switch not coming on, my battery was at about 11.46v. Nothing want come on steering wheel will tilt after inserting the key but it still will not start. The alarm still unlock the door and interior lights will come on. I'm a green mechanic still in school but a little lost. This has happened before I did the same thing let it sit for couple hrs went back and push the start it started up until know. I don't think I ever want to own a piece junk like this again it only has 40, 000 miles on it. Some one help me and these dummy that built it does give you fuse panel diagram that lable the fuse??

It MB 2010 E350 piece of junk, smh and money pit, someone help me?

And what I know a charge battery after the surface charge should be 12.6 and if it's below 12.28 MM it indicates that is not fully charged. At ,12.48 it still wouldn't turn my request for head lights on, smh but that battery been in the car since I bout it the first of year and it still have the MB stickers on it. I think it's factory or either been replaced by dealer, what should I do?

We just repaired this on sept 21 2016. It was the electronic steering lock believe it or not. $1200 repair and only at dealership.

It has nothing to do with the battery, they symptoms are very misleading.

Yogi39: It sounds like your battery is causing the no start. Not current across the big load that a car that is primarily electronic would start. 12.6 - 12.7 Volts should do it. I don't know which state you are in, but most all auto parts stores will test a battery and tell you if it needs to be replaced or not. They will load test it, some may even put it on a charger and ask you to return a couple of hours later. Your car is a 2010 and assuming that is the original battery, it has serred you 5-6 years, where the average life for most batteries is around 4 years. If the battery is good, then I would have them check the alternator. In the meantime, you can search for a fuse chart online... and do check fuses. I would suggest you check relays as well. You say you are a "go green mechanic" wellthis is one perfect opportunity for you to learn something new. Every car Mercedes Benz sells comes with a fuse chart. Just because someone lost yours isn't the manufacturer's fault... Good luck!

@ Deadmerc: actually EIS/ESL symptoms are rately "misleading". Go back to your post and read the symptoms you posted here, and you'd know precisely what happens when EIS/ESL have given up! (Brake light switch??? Ok... so that might affect the brake lights coming on... but why would it lock the steering wheel, or the shifter, or display a "remove key" message!!! Conversely, the only thing in common between EIS/ESL failure and the symptoms that Yogi described, is the fact that the car would not start. He does not have a "remove key" on display, he clearly mentions his steering wheel not locking up. He does not mention a locked shifter... all his symptoms are electrical in nature...

I'm letting everyone know the solution to my problem. The one you are referring to sounds like the brake light stop switch. $15 dollar part and a do it yourself er.

I had a problem with my E350 mb. The car won't start. When I used the spare key it started for a few days and then won't start the car either. I towed the car to the dealership and was told THE EIS was the issue. Once that was changed, I was told key was not responding to the EIS and I had to replace the keys as well. I am wondering if they reaped me off by replacing a EIS that did not have a problem. I am thinking that I may have just had a key issue

They ripped you either way. Either big as you suggest or simple as they should have know a new eis requires key reprogramming or replacement. In old terms it's like changing a lock, it requires new keys.

If your car starts when it wants to or after you fill up your car, chances are it's the fuel switch under the back seat. The manufacturer knows it's a problem but they make money off ppl getting new keys. Move your back seat back and forth and see if your car starts. It cost me 5 trips to the shop in one year to figure it out. 1500 out of pocket. After it was fixed. I traded for a new BMW.

I have done quite a bit of research on this since last night when my car would not start. I have fuses on order and will get them tomorrow. I have created a chart picture of a C300 2008 fuse panel and the needed fuses that should be changed in case anyone needs. https://gyazo.com/1815232413130a103786df1397b5fbe0 The colors of the arrows are correct. 1 brown, 2 yellow and 1 red. I found my fuse panel in the trunk of the car. Hope this helps. Praying it is just the fuses and not the other things listed.

Same problem with my 2009 c300...Non start issue, initially started with a jump but had to take to the shop 2 weeks later after replacing battery. 1300 total cost something in the steering column. I wrote email to corporate with no response, indicating this an ongoing issue with this year make and should have an available fix that is not at cost to the customer.

hey Kevin and who ever has or solved thi poblem i don't know if i m having the same problem my car star right away but i will shuut off in a second or just dont crank i happened to me couple weeks ago and is been ok untill yesterday and eveytime i turn the key right before i ghet to the star light i can see the brake like and the triangle yellow light on i knew it wasnt going to star the car is parking face down the hill and my whell is not traight it wont let me turn the wheel or the gear

They tell me it's the transponder on my c300 2009. Same issue wind start radio works battery got 13.12 volts. Ill have to get it towed. Anybody got any ideas or fixes. Tony

hello , my car c300 2009 wouldn't start they checked the batteries, fuses everything . Now this guy suggested I try a new keys I am about to order a new keys, almost $300 then if its not that idk what else it can be. Reading some of your comments here it seem to be a common issue with the C300 and it may be the ESI.

hello , my car c300 2009 wouldn't start they checked the batteries, fuses everything . Now this guy suggested I try a new keys I am about to order a new keys, almost $300 then if its not that idk what else it can be. Reading some of your comments here it seem to be a common issue with the C300 and it may be the ESI.

I changed my Ignition Module and it never happened to me again, thankfully. Guess that was it!

@Marlene how much did you pay to change that out ?

$1400. Expensive- I know. But it was definitely the problem. Like I mentioned, I've never had that problem again

Hello, This happen to me on Easter Sunday. I went to the store and got ready to leave my car wouldn't say anything. I have a C300 2010, my key message said to take my key out, my windows will not raise down, horn, head lights will not work and car will not start. But my lights inside and radio comes. My panic button works and my switch turn it off. My fuses are good, no battery not low. I had my car towed to my house. Do anyone know what's my problem? I'm so frustrated

Hello A, we have the exact same situation - happened on Easter Sunday as well We have a C300 2008, my key message said to take the key out, windows will not raise down, horn, head lights will not work and car will not start. But the lights inside and radio come on. Fuses are good. Tried wiggling the steering hard and quick, tried with a second key, waited overnight for the problem to fix itself, also tried the finger method and no luck so far. Seeing a "Take Your Key From Ignition" message even after turning the key. We're getting ready to get the car towed if nothing else works.

Hello, I will need to get the diagnostic done from Benz house. I don't know any place else and I will give an update. I'm thinking it maybe security system/ computer bcz the way it shut down, I'm just guessing. I don't want just anyone touching my car.

Bridge water NJ, Mercedes just called me saying it's my steering wheel lock has failed and not ready the key shutting everything down. My price is $1208. The parts should be in on Friday to be fix.

There's no recall for this matter or on this matter but it should be.

Bridgewater, NJ Thank you for following up... it helps those who may find themselves in a similar dilemma. I don't Blame you for not wanting anyone to touch your car, although in this case you had very little choice. As you may have already been told, the ignition switch as well as the steering lock are not typical in-stock items at any dealership, instead, they must be ordered (from somewhere in Texas, I believe) on a case by case basis and only after proper validation that the person requesting the repairs is in fact the vehicle's registered owner (or his/her agent or representative). And to explain this problem further, when you insert the key into the ignition, that key must be the correct key for that vehicle otherwise the system does not recognize it, and (1) it would not allow it to turn inside the key port, (2) it does not signal the steering wheel lock to unlock, and subsequently, (3) it will also prevent the ignition switch from sending a signal to the starter module to start the engine. In your case, it sounds as if your key was properly identified as being the proper key (as proven by the fact that you could turn it inside the key port), this was then followed by the system sending a signal to the steering wheel requesting it to go into "unlocked mode", when that failed, and since driving a car with a locked steering wheel should not ever happen, the system then deactivated and is not longer proceding with the additional steps that would allow the engine to start. Best of luck going forward. And it seems to me that more often than not, it is the steering lock that tends to fail more than the ignition switch. In fact I know lf a couple of cases where initially, they either misdiagnosed the problem, or they just went with their gut feeling and the calls that went to the owners indicated that the ignition switch had failed, parts were ordered and the cost for the job is approximatery the same as the steering lock. In one case, the car started fine after repairs were complete but when the owner went in to retrieve it from service, it would not start. Sent it back to service, and at that time diagnostics showed the steering lock had failed. Repair costs were then doubled for a grand total of approximately $2200. In the second case, owner successfully picked up the vehicle, on his way home, he stopped to pick up a few items at a grocery store, came back out, car would not start. Towed back to the dealer only to (again) find out the steering lock had failed. Double up on that repair bill he had just paid.

Also, I realize it is very frustrating to have a car break down or to have to pay such a sudden and unexpected repair bill. But with regards to you thinking there should be a recall for this problem: (1) Failure of this part does not subject the vehicle or any of its occupents to any unsafe issues. This is why the NHTSA would not force a manufacturer to issue a recall. But, (2) And while you might see many who have complained here about similar symptoms, not every personight who posted here had an ignition switch or steering wheel lock problem. Even if they all did, and let's also assume that there are twice or even ten times the number of failures that required a steering lock or ignition switch to be replaced, heck, let us assume 1000 vehicles were affected, Mercedes Benz sold approximately 250,000 C-Class vehicles between 2008 affixed 2011. And 1000/250,000 = 0.004 = 0.4% which is least than one half of one percent, which would not validate a presumption that this is a problem part or that the manufacturer should be held to answer for repair costs. Your car is a 2008, which makes it a 9 year old car... Parts are not made to fail but are destined to do so. Nothing lasts forever!

Hi A, I got the car towed to the dealership Monday and they haven't gotten back with a diagnosis yet. Luckily for us we ran into a neighbor who works at the dealership and he's handling our case so feeling good about our chances. Thanks for sharing details of your diagnosis, will share what happens with ours.

You are lucky indeed if you have someone on the inside you can trust. And that KS in advance for continuing to update your story.

Just bought a 2000 CLK 320 day before yesterday. Yesterday morning I experienced the "remove key" when leaving Lowe's. Waited a few minutes and it didn't give the message, and started. Later in the day, attempting to go to DMV for the title transfer, I got the other horrible scenario, steering wheel/shifter lockup. It seems more than a few of the problems mentioned earlier were with '08 and newer models. My nearest MB dealer is 75 miles away and I hate to think about having my car towed that far, and even less, what seems to happen afterwards. So much for the "new car" (to me) excitement. They're picking up my '91 300 E tomorrow. "Totaled" in a very low speed fender bender! I LOVED the few years I owned it. Missing it more everyday!!!

Sorry to hear about your experience Tooth, hope it works out for you. An update to my situation - heard back from the dealership last night and they've confirmed the problem is a faulty ESL (steering lock). It will need to be sawed out and then replaced. The cost is similar to what you paid A and am expecting to have the car back by Friday (it was towed Monday). Good luck to others out there facing the same issue, sorry there isn't an easier solution to solving this from my experience.

BW,NJ Yes, you are right about my C300 2010. The Only thing good when I took my car to the dealership was getting a loaner while they were working on my vehicle. I wish I had a neighbor like you. My car was ready on Friday and I have a 12 months warranty. My key wasn't the issue but the failure of the steering wheel. The labor cost was close to $800 and total was $1208. This needs to be on a recall too many ppl having this issue and we all need to complain!

Thanks Kevin..for us it was shaking the steering wheel.I turned it off and on and it turn on again without no problem

Hello Omar S! I'd like to say that although a majority of these Loss of ignition failures reported here have been in parked cars, just imagine if it happened on a freeway in traffic when the EIS system went out! A multi car accident would have occurred with multiple injuries and deaths! That is my concern here! This happened to me with my 2008 C300 in a parked position thank the Lord! But if my Grandchildren had been in my car and it happened It Would Have Been A Major Trajedy!! It's strange that no one has even thought of this! The ESI system can go at any time People!! This has happened to too many of us and it needs to be reported to Mercedes Benz at 800-367-6372 and to NHTSA at 888-327-4236!! We need to be saving lives here people and get a recall going here! We need to stop potential accidents on freeways and stop paying Mercedes for their faulty parts and labor on top of it all! I don't know about you, but I'm not going to sit back and pay for their bad parts! There are enough of us here and on the MB site if you go there to get a RECALL!! So let's get those CALLS IN!! I called today... Now you people should! Okay! Let's get on this before tragedy happens! It may already have happened and we don't know about it!! Can you imagine driving down the freeway and all of a sudden your car stops and you have no steering and your wheels lock and nothing works! That's what would happen going 65 miles an hour folks!!! Think about it! Like I said, we are just talking about parked cars here... but if we were driving ... forget about it!! Take Care.. I didn't mean to scare you. But it's reality people! Signed a caring Mercedes C300 Driver MCG Love To All Of You!

My Answer To The SEI FAILURE in your cars is to report it to Mercedes Benz at the number I gave you and To to the NHTSA Nationals Transportation Safety Association located in Washington DC, so they can issue a recall!! I gave you that number too! Good luck and be safe! Maureen ... (I wrote the letter above!!)

Hello Maureen and Omar, I had the same problem 2 years ago, with my ex-Car 2009 C300. My Wife was pregnant (8 months) when we went to a concert of Albano and Romina Power in beverly hills, we parked the Car on business parking structure at the End of the Concert with oput any issues the concert ended around 11:45 PM The Car Just didn't start, the steering wheel got stuck, The shift stick got stuck too,the ligths the front lights didn't work, the windows were working and some stuff, so I knew that the problem was not the battery, any way someone offered jumper cables, but didn't work as well the car was just death on the Ignition system !!!!!! I tried different things but nothing worked . We arrived at home around 03:00 hours on A taxi. The Total expenses was around $1400.00. I am totally agree this problem should be a Recall !!!!! Once I fixed the problem on the Car , I went to trade it, now my wife she is driving it , because thanks God, we have a lovely baby girl, the Car she is driving is a Nissan Pathfinder and we are so happy with this Car. I wish this problem can be a recall !!! Good Luck Everybody !!!

stop buying these german genius products I adopted a VW Passat v6" talk about German electronic overkill, several thousands later, still experiencing Hitlers curse for the Allies I recently experienced runaway acceleration several times: had to turn off ignition key to avoid major accidents NO trouble light to inform u of the chaos The German geniuses decided to delete the throtttle cable which oberates the butterfly, The resultant is a rude goldberg consisting of a pedal sensor to the computer then to an electronic servo motor which actuates the butterfly in the throttle body A simple operation complicated by these Hitler geniuses Patch ur MBs and then trade or sell them and buy a reliable Honda

Anyone else still having this issue or figured it out? What about when you put something else in there beside the key? Is anyone still being told to remove key from dash light???

GuruZZCR5, not sure what else you intend on putting in the ignition keyhole and/or what Do you expect will happen as a result, but the "remove key...." reminder is neither unusual nor is it indicative of a failure or a defect. If the key is in the ignition, and the driver door is open, that message is programmed to pop up on the dash.

Hello Maureen, and sorry for my late reply... Your concerns about this happening in freeway traffic are unwarranted simply because this problem can only happen when the engine is off, when someone inserts the key into the ignition switch, which is when thebignition switch will attempt to authenticate the key (as being one which belongs to that particular car). Once the engine starts, the ignition switch is not called upon to do anything and therefore it cannot fail while the engines running. As for the steering lock, that only functions immediately befkre the engine starts (to unlock the steering wheel) or after it is turned off andnthenkey is removed. So while you are free to file as many complaints with the NHTSA as you want, and while you can continue hope for a recall, this issue does not fit the criteria for one, as there is no safety risk involved when these failures occur. I gain nothing by continuing to repeat the same thing.... I am only being realistic.

So I just struggled with this problem for the past 48 hours. FINALLY figured it out. 2009 c300 wouldn't start. It has plenty of juice in the battery. Had the battery tested twice and it's healthy. However, if I jumped the car from another vehicle it would start! After much fury and persistence, I figured out that the previous owner's bank had installed a hidden "GPS kill switch" device. Lender's put them on borrower's vehicles and if they get behind on payment, banks can send a signal to disable the ignition on the car. (Google if you want to learn more) They had the device installed under the fuse box in the hood. Kinda hard to get to, but it's spliced into the main ignition wire. It was poorly installed and had loose connections causing the vehicle not to start. I mean, these jokers left bare exposed wires exposed in there! Once I studied the wiring diagram a little that I found on Google I could see how to remove the device and re splice the ignition wire properly. (The device consists of a GPS unit and a kill switch relay, you can see both in my photo) Bingo bango!! Car stars like a champ now! Now I'm attempting to get some cost reimbursement from the dealership that sold me a car with a sneaky, poorly installed GPS tracking kill switch without me knowing.... jerks.

2013 MB C300 Fourmatic with 61K Miles. Many of the same symptoms described in other answers. Pacific NW climate. Dealer diagnosis: Stearing lock failure. This repair is being covered under the certified preowned car warranty, It is a little troubling that the car on at least one occasion prior to the failure warned us while we were drinking on I5 at 60mph that the key could not be found.

2010 ML350 starts right up when cold in the morning. If i go to a store and return to the car when I insert and turn the key nothing happens no lights on dash. After struggling for 5 minutes trying everything from locking/unlocking opening doors turning key slowly it finally starts. This problem started a month ago and is becoming more frequent now. After reading here I assume it is the ESI and it is an expensive fix so I called MERC Benz and complained and asked if there is a recall. There is no recall and customer service told me she is not a mechanic and wants me to take it to the dealer. If you experience similar problems I encourage you to call and let them know about these problems.

Also take 5 minutes and file a safety complaint https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/

2012 e350 has also shown to be susceptible to steering lock failure. Drove the car fine one day and two days later the car won't crank or start. The dash says please don't forget to remove key. The dealer immediately suggested steering lock failure as a probable cause. The cars steering is not locked but may fail either locked or unlocked. What the hell on a 60,000 dollar car? Where is the recall?! Still not repaired and a dead weight in my driveway until the owner decides to face reality that this car has issues that put it dead and no solution or support from MB about this.

I have a 2012, W204 C180. 200 000 Km. I went inside a shop when I came back the car could not start, dashboard, radio and windows could not work. I took it to a mechanic, he checked a ESL which was fine and later we got a new key, he coded it. and the car started to swing and we could close windows. the car still cannot move. What may be the problem?

@Omar_S HI everyone, I have a 2009 C-300. Last week went for regular A service, they also changed FLEX DISC for $440, saying it was cracked. This morning car wont start. I will have to tow it to dealership next week. My battery is original Mercedes, changed 18 months ago. I read online, some said its ignition switch or may be steering lock or even starter relay. But everyone had slight different symptoms. So I will explain mine in detail. When I insert key, I do not hear the zzzzip sound. The key TURNS NORMALLY. ONLY cluster display comes on, showing date & mileage. But Engine or gas or ABS light does NOT come on. The gear shift is locked. Windows do NOT roll down. Dash board back lights are on, but when I switch the headlights on through the knob on left, the dash lights go away, come back on when turn headlights to off or auto position. I thought it was the battery since the headlights wont turn on and the dash lights turn off thinking headlights taking all the juice. The voltage on battery is 12.25 V. My friend brought his X6, we connected cables, but still EXACTLY the same. Even the headlight won’t turn on despite being connected to the other car, I checked the voltage and it was 13.75 on the terminals (while connected to the running bmw). I checked the starter fuses, 6,7,19,27. They are OK. I saw a video describing similar problem caused by starter relay, but in that video the engine, ABS and gas lights were turning on when turning the key, mine does NOT. So I did not buy a relay as it may be a different problem. I am just trying to save money on towing it, if it is something that I can fix at home. I have a fear that it would be one of those $1200 thing everyone is taking about with the steering. Please advise me if you can ….. thank you in advance.

Just had same pbm on my 2008 C300 225K miles car,. Car in garage and won’t start. MBZ service tech came and checked battery was good. Battery was replaced last year May 2017. Had this issue once last month and waited 10 min and it started. This time it is dead for good. Waiting for tow truck to take to dealer. What i’m reading sounds like ESL issue so hope that it is. Will update next week.

Here is the solution guys.. I faced this problem twice, first time The battery was juice, internal lights was working, stereo was working. But the ignition will not kick start with all the lights on display, I got the car towed, and when it reached dealer it started. Second time got me frustrated and I decided to get towed without trying options. The one that worked is below . When you car steering is locked, the message reads "take your key out of ignition." you do things. Keep the driver door open, press lock unlock button on the key fob 2-3 times with slight pauses and your door open. NOW insert the key slowly in the ignition and turn to start position, if all the lights comes up in dashboard .. WOLA looks like you reset the start system, start the car and enjoy the ride. It worked for me....try it and may be you can save all those big bucks on creepy dealers. Regards Garg

Sorry, Garg but what you offered makes very little sense, if any at all. For starters, and if "press[ing] lock unlock button on the key fob 2-3 times with slight pauses... etc" would "reset the start system" then the entire anti theft system on these vehicles is worthless as far as protection. Fact is, if the starting system has detected a faulty element (a stuck/non- responsive steering lock, a defective ignition switch... etc) the system will generate a diagnostic trouble code that is stored in ECU. Unless and until that code is cleared from ECU, the system will continue to disable the starting cycle. Furthermore, the circuitry in your key fob that (1) sends out the lock and unlock signal to the vehicle is totally separate from the circuitry that (2) generates the key identification code that is sent to the ignition switch to help identify the key (which is an integral step in the starting cycle). So to say using circuit (1) will reset circuit (2)..... Not likely! Also, the message "take your key out of ignition." is not only shown when the steering is locked. That message is programmed to come on whenever the driver's door is open while the key is in the ignition, regardless of what state the steering wheel is in (locked/unlocked). Of course none of this is to suggest that people should not try your method... Just as long as they are aware that the chances of those steps "resetting the starting system" are slim to none. Accordingly, tonatart your post with "here is the solution guys" is a bit misleading! Last but not least, things like a failed start do not happen as a fluke. Often times there is a reason for them and in your case, it still maybe a bad battery, could be an ignition switch or steering lock that is failing intermittently, fuses, starter relay or the starter itself. Good luck!

Has the same issue and found this thread. I was able to fix by cleaning dirt off the contact inside the switch. When you press the ignition flap in (simulating a key fob insert), you will see a metal contact at the bottom side of the switch. Mine was dirty presumably from usage over the years. I think the car wasn't able to read the key fob because of the dirt. I scratched it a few times to get cleaned a bit and re-inserted the key. It started up just fine.

So i just had this problem with my 08 c300 and after alot of research i found out that the car has a auto lock system on the stearing column if you put your hey in you should hear it unlock and lock when you pull it out. I moved my staering wheel up and down a few time and everything engaged and started to work again i believe the lock pin is sticking or was not reading that the key was in

Has anyone found a cheap and affordable solution without having to take it to the Mercedes Benz dealership and having it towed? I have replaced the battery, checked the fuses and tried resetting the auto lock system on the steering column, yet nothing seems to work.

Thanks walker32388! It worked on my 2012 c250. For anyone with the steering wheel lock failure, try unlocking the latch below and move your steering wheel up and down a few times, re-lock and start again.

I am having many of the same issues. My car was working perfectly on Wednesday and Thursday morning nothing. The steering wheel is locked, the warning appears to remove key, the ignition won't turn to start car, there is a strange sucking sound when the key is inserted. I will try the starter relay fuse first. Can someone tell me where it (the fuse box) is located on a 2010 c300?

My car is a mercedes benz C300 4matic 2011 and I'm going through the same problem right now ; I've got $400 dollar down towing my car twice witch is the coast of the locking mechanism of the steering wheel ; this star up on wednesday , My key fob doesn't unlock the car so I call the mercedes dealer ship they told me that my locking mechanism is broken and it's gonna coast me $1400 dollar to fix it but they don't have the part in stock it has to be order , Ok It tow it the car home set it up on my space went home to use the bathroom came back down my car star up like nothing happen ; I was happy and mad at the time because Iost $200 bucks. Today I coming to work get in to my car star up the car make a quick stop in Public to buy something to eat at work " done " so comeback to my car ufff my car doesn't star it doesn't unlock the car ; tow it the car back home an other $200 because the towing truck has to use a dolly that is an extra $50 bucks , got a hour late for work plus an Uber driver . ! I love My car but I'm so disappointed that I really fill like I don't wanna any more . Thank You everyone I fill much relax reading all your comments !! like someone say " everything happen for a reason " But Head up ! Everything it's gonna be OK .

I drove my 2009 C350 to work two weeks ago and it worked fine. I went to lunch and came back to the office my car would not start. It gave me a message to remove the key ???? I have both of my keys and neither works. I call the dealer and of course it is the steering wheel column. It will cost me around $920 to fix, Why is this not a class action lawsuit?

Same with my 2012 C class..Does anyone know if this has been a recall yet....I'm so frustrated and now how to figure to pay this bill...

i read a comment saying shake the wheel and it worked ... you gotta flip the switch under the wheel to adjust and move it up and down then lock the wheel in place and try to start .. i had to do this a few times and then it worked... just keep wiggling it up and down and lock it in place and try starting

Steering wheel jiggle left and right worked for me. Firm jiggling. Frustration venting jiggling.

2007 MB C280 Luxury starting issue: Same as all of your symptoms; locked in park, sometimes will start and etc. Went outside, after reading all these related problems, jiggled the steering wheel and it started right up. This car is beautiful but drives me crazy. It belonged to my in-laws and it had only 29k miles on it when I purchased it and it has been a continued issue in one form or another. It sits in a garage in central Florida for 6 months at a time since it was new. Can someone tell me what kind of switch; i.e., micro or cherry, is used in the steering column? From the issues, it sounds like a cherry switch which is easily contaminated.

A little bit shock to see that many C300, whether a little older or a little newer all have this issue: Mine, only 2 over 18 months period with happy ending. First time: starter won't crank in the early morning west coast. By PM at shop, it started. Second time: starter cranked but still not enough to start engine. By 9am when AAA mechanics came over, it started. Ran full check, no engine code show up. M-Benz, are you listening to our issues here??

Hard winter in Illinois now. Filled tank Friday before MLK Day, would not start Saturday or Sunday, towed Sunday night to "thaw out", Monday mech. says diagnostics reveal nothing unusual, then Tuesday morning says 70 compression on one bank, 90 on the other, I need a new motor. There were NO anomalies prior to shutting car down Friday night! How can that happen??

Press the unlock button on the key while its in the ignition

It might be that switch for anyone with this issue but mine does that same thing but it could have something to do whith the security system so i just put the key in and press unlock and it work wierd but these cars always have little tricks to them and keep only the best gas cheveron with tecron 91 only, the accuator rods on the intake manafold are made of plastic so if the carbon builds up the will get stuck shut and break then your sol for that intake code p2006 take care of your c class my friends and good luck

Same problem here, with my 2009 C300. Wouldn’t start, steering wheel locked and said “remove key from ignition”. Tried the advice from this thread (try to turn the steering while very hard while the key is in the ignition). I heard something engage inside the steering column and the message went away, steering wheel unlocked, then I was able to start the car. Some on here have said only an MB dealer can replace the steering lock, so I guess I’m going there. Thanks for the advice on this thread! Now to make my wallet lighter on the fix.

Hi everyone. Same problem here on my MB C300 - 2010. Car wouldn’t start. I tried all the tricks but still nothing. I think is my ESL and I can’t believe this type of cars will have this stupid issues. I am done owing MB’s they will stick you with a $1,200 bill for a $20 electronic component.

I have 2010 C300...vehicle will lock and unlock with both keys as normal. When I open the door, the left instrument cluster has the high beam light indicator illuminated and the right cluster has the fog lamps illuminated, yellow on top and green just below it. When I insert the key the normal screen appears in the center. Upon turning the key, the ESL can be clearly heard…I also have a 2008 C300 and the sound is the same in comparison. Back to the 2010, as I continue to turn the key I get the full range of xmas tree lights including the warning indicator between the left and center instrument cluster. The center cluster begans to cycle through messages…airbag not functioning/tire pressure monitor not functioning/ESC inoperative… Other items of note, the headlights/tail lights will not turn. The radio, windows, locking and unlocking the car works fine but without the flashing lights indicating the car is being locked or unlocked. There is no clicking when turning the key all the way to the right for starting. Many of you may be thinking battery…my first thought as well…I purchased a new battery from Mercedes and checked it after it did not solve the issue…its putting out 12.36 volts. I swapped out the starter relay from the 2008 C300…all was the same as stated above. If there is another fuse I should check please be specific as to what fuse and its location…I’m at the point of towing to the dealership. I have also tried starting the car in neutral…nothing! Anyone with a similar experience?

MB Fam please give some input:, I have a 2010 C300. back story of my car, it has hesitated to start after filling the tank multiple times. I have to charge the battery 3x the passed week. Friday I had just put gas in the car, within 20min after getting gas I was coming to a stop light and the car kind had 3 misfire, not downshift correctly: not sure how to articulate. on the gear shift the RED light went off next the drive gear. I noticed that the [C] disappear off the cluster. I pulled over, open door turned off car, waited 10 and restarted.. I continue on way, I made a stop before getting on HWY. I was on the ramp to the hwy and it's basically went into limp mode. I pulled over turned car off and tried to restart and it would not turn over. i towed to dealership and yesterday to the dealership to see if it would turn and it didn't, I also had to recharged the battery because it was dead. any thought? also the fuses I have some A and others Z. the owner's manual says fuses should be A is it ok to mix?

2010 W204 Mine had the same problem too. Some electrical components work but when i turn key to start, nothing. No crank no sound nothing. Wiggled the steering hard until finally it worked. Took me a good 1 minute. So happy was able fixed the issue. At least for now.

2009 C300 with 108,000 miles. Got the "Take your key from ignition" error messaged. Tried jiggling the steering wheel and the ignition spring and nothing. Had car towed to dealership and my work order says "No crank - no cluster info or lights. Quick test - code for steering lock malfunction. Recommend steering lock replacement. $1238.55 [plus shop charges of $69.99]"

2011 C300 4matic sport with 97500 miles. Pulled in my driveway went to leave. Nothing! "remove key" SO I got on the web and found many with the same problem. I didn't want to tow the car to the dealer so I started trouble shooting in the driveway. I wanted to make sure it was something simple so I checked the battery, pre fuse module and all the fuses. Car would lock and unlock and when I set off the panic alarm the fob inserted into the ignition would kill it. Figured the dealer is the only place that is able to fix this because I think I have it narrowed down to the stirring lock EIS. ..$1200 later new stirring EIS and works again. What a pain in the ass.

I am currently experiencing the same issues with my 2012 Mercedes C350 coupe. Weeks leading to this, my car started occasionally not cranking and would take at least 2 attempts before starting. The past week this became more frequent and took more tries to get the car to start. Monday I left to go to the store and it took nearly 5 attempts before the car actually started, once leaving the store it again took another 2 times to start up. Monday night I prepare to leave and the car won’t start at all. I’ve watched numerous diy YouTube videos, jump started the battery, changed the battery to an aftermarket and then Mercedes battery, wiggled and roughly yanked the steering wheel and NOTHING!! Dreadfully called the dealership and I am currently awaiting a tow... smh!! Definitely feel like with all of the complaints there should most definitely be a recall! This is absurd and seems completely unavoidable!!

Humidity under the driver map floor do all these problems... pull it out and let it dry and the car will work like new again. and to prevent rain water to come back inside open all the drains especially the ones from the sunroof. German cars especially Mercedes are well known for there bad electric engineering and a fool placed all these plugs in a place which might get humid easley.

we have 2011 Mercedes c300 auto .every think work light lock but car not start car issue

Hope this will help some owners: it’s an over-engineered problem by MB—key and EIS, ELS need to be in synch everytime. Sometime it fails due to the $4 motor in steering column—not the column itself. There are kit sold on Amazon for $20; however you need to spend 4 hrs of labor to replace that motor. I chose a simpler solution: have Locksmith (specialized) installed an Emulator—which get rid of this problem for Life. It costs $250, pre-empty a frustrated problem that may cost $1200-$1800!

I know this is a really old post. I just wanted to let people know if you are having issues with your 2011 c300 when putting the key in the ignition and you are able to turn the key but nothing happens. You also get a warning saying to REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION and your steering wheel is NOT in the locked position. In order to get the car started is to get your steering wheel to lock again first. I found rolling the car in natural, too do this you will have to pull up the shifter cover and press the yellow switch ( its yellow in my 2011 c300, its black in the 2002 c320) down which will allow you to move the shifter out of park. Once in neutral roll the car for a second turning the wheel back and forth, then put back in park and try again. make sure the steering wheel locks. Sometime shaking the wheel works but it is easier to move the steering wheel while the car is moving this is why rolling it is the easiest way I have found. I will update once I figure out exactly why the car is doing this, I believe it is either a battery power issue or a malfunction of the locking mechanism? It is not an EIS issue because the car is recognizing the key. it defiantly could just be the motor of the locking mechanism however that could just be malfunctioning because the battery isn't preforming correctly?

My problem!!: BAD CONNECTION/RELAY ( NOT SURE WHICH 1, UNDER HOOD) I heard relay clicking & felt which one with my finger, pulled it & replaced. Started right up!!!!