Engine turns over but it will not start.

And I also checked all the fuses

why did you replace it??? and it started after you replaced it...it got you home then it stalled and wouldnt fire up again...correct???

I replaced the battery because if it stayed parked for more than about 12 hours the battery would be dead. I went to autozone an installed the new battery in the parking lot then drove home. When I got to my driveway and slowed down the car started sputtering real bad and stalled. It just turns over but will not crank

I would have the alternator tested, if battery is drained all the time. Look for bad or corroded wires from those and check the ground wire block to frame, battery to ground for connection loose or burned wires there or elsewhere.

I checked the wires on the battery they all seem fine. But now it won't even turn over I turn the key to try an start it but it does nothing no clicks or any responses from engine. When I turn the key to acc everything comes on but when I turn it to try to crank it everything goes off. And it isn't saying my battery is low.

The only lights that are showing up is airbag seat belt low ture pressure and traction control. No check engine light is on

Check or replace those terminal wires all the way to the starter and all grounds all the way. Not just at the battery.

I got it to start turning over again. But still won't starring getting fuel I can smell it when I turn it over and there's full when u check the valve

If you smell fuel I would think it is getting fuel but is not firing maybe. Did you check the fuse's. How or whet did you use to clean the MAF?

I used CRC mass air flow sensor cleanor then I let it sit for about a half hour till it was fully dry. I checked the fuses they all look good.

Next see if you have fire and the plugs. You can pull them one at a time to test each with a voltmeter and put each in its boot and ground to block turn engine over to see if you have fire. With voltmeter put one lead on tip and other on the metal case/threads area put meter on ohms if any thing shows up its bad should say OL and then put one lead on electrode and to the metal case if any reading other than OL its bad. Look at the plug wires too. Check to be sure all your electrical connectors are connected good.

I'll do it in the morning it just started raining. I spent 8 hours today looking for a solution to this on every site I could think of an seen a bunch of people with the same problem but no solution. It's gotta be a sensor or a fuse. Or maybe do you think the catilac converters might be clogged? But I'm gonna check the plugs in the morning

I presume you've gone back and checked the battery connections to make sure they are still tight. If that's where you worked and then suddenly started having problems with the car, that's the first place you should look for a problem. Sometimes its the obvious things we miss.

I checked all all of them need the bettery. But I did find a loose ground wire Goin from the engine to the frame underneath one of the head lights. It was real loose the nut was backed almost all the way off. I was hoping that would be the problem I I cleaned it real good and tightened it all the way back up and still same results turns over but wont start. When I try starting the car I notice it will register about 2 or 3 hundred rpms so I found the crank sensor and disconnected it tried to start it and it didn't register anything on the needle so reconnected it and it would register about 2 or 3 hundred again while trying to start it so it seams like that's fine. Made a call to the dealer ship today they said it could be something with the computer or it might not be getting enough fuel pressure it's getting fuel to the rail but idk If it's enough pressure or not. I'm going to try and replace plugs and coils Friday when I get paid see if that does anything an if not have it towed to a dealership.

NO! Don't waste your money throwing parts at it and hoping for a miracle. Trouble shoot it first and fix what's actually wrong. Have it scanned for trouble codes and check the fuel pressure as was suggested by the professionals. It's definitely not the plugs, and if the coils are still good you're throwing money away that could be used to fix the actual problem.

Ok finally got a scanner today it's saying low voltage to the map sensor and lost signal to transmission control module. Hopeople if I change these the car will be up and running

Hope so to.

I changed the MAP sensor which was around $70 and it changed nothing so the only other code coming up is the TCM. And they are around $150 so I hope that fixes it I'm at work now but when I get home I'm going to try and check the wires Goin to it to see if any are damaged or grounds be for I spend 150 on a part the may or may not be bad.

Well the car is fixed and running perfect now. It turns out there was one 15 amp fuse that was blown that cept the car from starting. Lol I looked through the fuse box like 3 times and missed it every time. But Atleast its running now. My next project for this car is getting the power steering working again.

Glad you're up and running. We all miss those "obvious" things from time to time.

cobalt 2005 turns over wont start unless the lights era on

do u remember what fuse was blown

i have somewhat the same issue on my 2006 Chevy cobalt ls 2.2 motor. it was driving just fine and I parked it one night and over night and the next day we had negative degree temperatures and my car would not start! tried jumping it and nothing. took the battery and charged it inside thinking the temperature might be the problem but didn't work. was getting no fuel to the motor so thought maybe a chance the lines were frozen so I put some heat in it and waited over night but still nothing. so we replaced the fuel filter and still nothing. from there I have replaced the fuel pump 3 times, battery 3 times. temperature control sensor, throttle body, throttle position sensor, accelerator pedal position sensor, spark plugs, and ignition starter switch and it still will not start only cranks

Any codes, Start a new thread so more guru's see your question, thanks and give the above statement.

Why are you replacing the same parts over and over? You didn't get 3 bad fuel pumps in a row, nor did you get 3 bad batteries. Did you load test your battery before you replaced it? Did you pressure test your fuel system before replacing the fuel pump? Sounds like you need to have a technician do some proper diagnostics first, then replace the faulty parts. Randomly throwing parts and money at it is clearly not going to work. With all that said, I'd be suspicious about an electrical connection with moisture in it that is being affected by the cold weather. Also check all grounds. There are several and some are prone to failure on older cars and can cause all sorts of problems. Good luck.

My car was raning fine next couple days car would not start unless i tap the gas then the car start raning hot can somebody help me with this cause now the car just cruck wont start

Scan it for trouble codes. That should give you some direction.

does anyone know what fuse Mario changed cause I am having the same problem

Sounds like you got yourself a bad alternator or a parasitic drain, that you can test for with a multimeter, either alternator isn't charging your battery or there is something draining the battery

@taunya There is a 15 amp fuse for the ignition coils or the injectors in the fuse box. I don't remember which. But it's in the lower "rightish" corner of the fuse box of you're standing facing the front of the car. I've seen these blown two or three times in the cobalts. Look hard, it's there. That's likely the fuse he replaced. It's amazing listening to some of these no start "diagnosis'" on this site. Air, spark, fuel, and compression make an engineer run. No start diagnosis is the same for virtually every vehicle. View any trouble codes then 1) check battery voltage 2) check fuel pressure 3) check for spark Depending on what's missing your check the following... Fuses/relays related to ignition system and fuel system. Use scan tool to verify park neutral safety switch is functioning. View scan tool data for MAF sensor readings, Intake air temp sensor reading, coolant temp sensor reading Check for power to ignition coils and switching signal for the coils. Check spark plugs condition. Verify crank sensor is reading and inputing to the PCM or ignition control module with a scope. Verify fuel injectors are receiving voltage and switching signals. Verify anti-theft system isn't preventing start up. Check compression and timing chain/belt. These aren't exactly in order but if you make it that far and haven't found a problem then its serious head scratching time. Suspect things like faulty head gasket, low quality/contaminated fuel. A fuel pump that is providing adequate pressure but inadequate volume. And other oddball rarities like that. Typically a no start is a very simple fix. Correct inputs/outputs from sensors to the module, fuel delivered in the correct ratio to the air ingested, the proper compression, and spark to light it off.

I need help Ass possibilities

So I see. Try using sentences made up with words from the english language. I believe it will increase your chances of getting help many times over.

Replaced my PCM in my 2006 Cobalt and it will not start. When I get under the car and tap the starter it cranks over but will do nothing when i is the key. The lights on dash all light up so it's not alternator or battery. What can I do. I used a computer to diagnose and it said PCM. Help please.

Dash lights do not necessarily mean a good battery. It takes very little power to light up the dash. Have the battery load tested and make sure all connections and grounds are tight and clean. If it load tests OK, make sure it is fully charged. It might have got run down while you were working on the car. The fact that it does something different when you tap the starter tells me you need to investigate that further. Make sure the connections are tight. Might be worth taking it off and having it tested. Don't buy a new one yet. Trouble shoot the one you have. They rarely fail.

Hello Everyone CHRISTY said this 2 years ago... I have the exact same problem things were fine then temp dropped. Did she get this answered or fixed??? She said"i have somewhat the same issue on my 2006 Chevy cobalt ls 2.2 motor. it was driving just fine and I parked it one night and over night and the next day we had negative degree temperatures and my car would not start! "

Sounds like you need a new battery. Cold weather makes the weak ones fail. You can load test it to be sure, but if its 4 years old or older its probably due for a new one anyway in which case I'd replace it regardless and see what happens.