Engine shuts off at stop sign/red lights
I have a 2009 town and country. It drove just fine, until I brought it to the dealer
for the R03 recall on Friday, June 12th, 2015.
Right after that, the engine sometimes shut off at the stop sign or red lights.
Also, when I back from the parking, the car won't move forward after I shift from R to D -
but it can still go backwards. It doesn't always act like that.
So I brought it back to the dealer. Their technician said it is unrelated to the recall,
and after a week, they told me they couldn't find the exact reason, but
suggested me to replace the spark plugs and wires ($559.xx). Then we can start from there,
which means I may need to replace other parts later on - as they weren't sure the exact cause.
I don't like the idea of the first step - so I drove it home.
Supposedly, the R03 recall is to prevent the car from sudden shut-off. Is that
just coincidence my car started to shut off right after the recall?
I also noticed that it is more likely to die if I brake harder - not 100% sure about this, maybe
just illusion.
Is there a check engine light on ?
No. That is why the dealer doesn't know the cause. They charged me $120 for not knowing the exact cause.
First I am going to suggest some simple things. Check air filter and also clean throttle body with throttle body cleaner spray replace fuel filter if have not done so in a while and add some fuel injector cleaner to gas tank. Lets start there first. Just let me know if the things I suggested you already had done.
To firebird338, I know little about the car, but will google how to do those steps. Seems many mentioned the throttle body in other forums.
Yes it should just google ( How to clean throttle body on the make , model and year of your vehicle).
cleaned the throttle body today, and then did a test drive. The engine shut off when I was backing from the parking. More precisely, I was backing from the parking, and shifted to D before the wheel returned all the way, then the engine shut off. It appears that I need to wait for the wheel return back to its 'normal' position, before shifting the gear.
It is possibly the EMCC solenoid if it is stalling after freeway driving at exits. Answer is here: http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php/60561- PLEASE-HELP!-2009-T-amp-C-4.0-stalling-when-exiting- highway-dealer-is-clueless!/page4
Yes, you are correct in that it stalls more frequently the harder you press on the brakes. I have had this problem for over a year. Cleaned the throttle body multiple times, changed the MAP sensor and also changed the EGR valve which many on another forum swore worked...none of it worked for me, will try the EMCC solenoid next
When approaching a stop sign or red light, have you tried to put the transmission into Neutral? See if it shuts off or stalls when you come to a stop.
Putting it in neutral does prevent it from stalling, but have to wait for car in front to move before putting in gear, just a hassle, now stalls while driving too
Sounds like your lock-up solenoid in your transmission. When you put it in gear at a stop, your transmission is locking up the torque converter and it stalls the car. There is a lock-up solenoid in the transmission that can be replaced without pulling the transmission. This happened to our van. Normally, the lock-up only occurs when you get in top gear while driving. Locking up when you put it in gear stalls the engine.
Sounds like your lock-up solenoid in your transmission. When you put it in gear at a stop, your transmission is locking up the torque converter and it stalls the car. There is a lock-up solenoid in the transmission that can be replaced without pulling the transmission. This happened to our van. Normally, the lock-up only occurs when you get in top gear while driving. Locking up when you put it in gear stalls the engine if you are stopped. Think popping the clutch while stopped.
My did the same thing. It ended up being the incorrect level of atf in the transmission, but you can't check it because it is the stupid sealed transmission. I would have them check that. I went through the same process that they couldn't find anything.
Did any of you ever get a resolution?
I'd also like to know if anybody found a fix. I have a 2014 T&C 119k miles replaced the transmission with a remanufactured (3yr/100k mile warranty) last month and many if the above have started.
I have 09 TC. Just started same problem. Few days ago when 1st starting drive it would buck and act up like choking or bad gas. After few miles fine. Today getting off interstate shut off. Died every time put in drive. Motor runs fine in N or R goes fine. Put in D and dies. Can rev and goes on.
I have a similar issue with my '09 T&C that occurred today. After significant research on the 62TE transmission, I have found the most likely culprit to be the EMCC solenoid (just as Carleaux stated 2 years ago in this same thread). It's still a sub-$30 part, but I see many have gone to the extent of replacing the valve body ($300-$500) depending reman or new/OEM. I would also suggest replacing the Solenoid module (unless you go with the whole shebang and replace the valve body, which should include the solenoid module). If you don't mind the work and the aprox $50 expense for trans. fluid every time you open her up, start with the EMCC solenoid (p/n: 05169313AA). Looking at the valve body replacement, I found good parts details at www.factorychyslerparts.com. There are two types available for the 62TE: p/n: R5078723AE and p/n: RL078723AD The one ending in "AE" is more expensive, but does not list why. Calling their customer support may be helpful in determining which valve body would be best (937-98-JEEPS). Don't forget to replace the transmission filter too. Replacing the valve body, solenoid module or solenoids does not require the transmission to be removed from the vehicle. Depending on your vehicle's engine, it may require removing exhaust components.
After one year of searching, here the answer Stalling problem solved with fuse box update kit to bypass internal fuel pump relay ,plus wiring update kit. Bertvang@vaxxine.com
Honestly this sounds like a torque converter locked. There are several reasons why this happens. I know it sucks but instead of throwing parts at it hoping for a patch. I recommend getting trans rebuilt and new Torque converter.
Similar problem started last week on 08 T&C with 106k on it. Engine dies when you stop in drive. Cranks back up in neutral and operates fine in reverse. Drop it to 1rst, crank it in neutral and put it back in drive and it bucks a little like popping the clutch on a standard, but shifts up and down fine till the next time you stop and the engine dies again. No codes to be found. Tried solenoid and valve body, same thing. Tried electronically releasing the torque converter lock-up, same thing. No codes usually equals mechanical. Don't know enough about it to tell further but I believe it has to be internal, a stuck valve, bearing or something worn or rusty.?? Replacing the transmission with a good warrantied rebuilt at trusted mechanics suggestion. Not being charged for attempts to repair which is very rare. If yours does the same thing, may be better to replace the unit rather than throwing money at the old one.
I’m getting a p0883 codes on my 08 Chrysler t&c 4.0. What can be the issue.
same issues with a 2010 T&C, anyone nail this issue down yet?
I have a 2012 Dodge Caravan that stalls at stops, bucks, idles rough....truly has a mind of it's own. Been a dodge lover for 20 years, have replaced just about everything and still continues. Anyone have any answers? Seems to be common....
My dad had a 2002 chrysler town and country and had to replace the 02 sensor 2 or 3 times in all the years hes had it. he said it would stall out like that
Ok. do this, you will thank me later. Cut off wire no.3 in the picture, which is the + wire that feeds the coil, and get any other + power from the underhood fuse box, BUT, notice it should be from any fuse that cuts power when you switch your car key off and connect it to no.3 wire in the picture. I have done this 3 years ago and my car is running just like a Swiss watch :) Do It Now.
I have this exact same issue except my 2010 started in 2016 and the whole start of it bagan with me walking out to leave and every automatic door open on my van and it would not start took two vehicles to get the van started and when it did start we literally couldn’t stop or the van died after like 7 hours three kids 6 and under one two months old middle of Texas summer we made it to some gas station about idk 10 minutes down the road and some random person recognized my husband and was like I have a battery that will fit that like I’ve never be more thankful of someon in my life they put the battery in and the van started right up like nothing happened. At the time life was really hectic and we lived out in the country I was scared to drive it anywhere but the bus stop afraid it would happen again then I had no gas and I suddenly had to move so it dat down the street from where we used to live at some distant actual family but we had no idea if years because I didn’t have any money to get her up well my brother was nice enough to drive the hour out there and retrieve my vehicle and try to figure out what is wrong and fix it now he is certain it’s the fuel pump relay built into the fuse box FYI 1300 part because some idiot thought it was smart to build it into the fuse box I’ve also gotten could be and some issue align with egr or erg valve but when he put the battery in it started fine after a few months it would try to turn over and I figured out that if I turned it off and turned it back on again it would fire right up now we are three times however if I try to start it and just turn it to ignition on and let it sit for five seconds or so then start sometimes it starts if I get about 40dte starts acting like it’s running out of gas stalls a lot for a few weeks like two weeks ago my abs light would come on I wasn’t sure if it was because I needed breaks or the tires or it was seizing or what but I also noticed that if I would make a turn like say a right on a yeaid to get on the highway if I put too much pressure instead of slowing down way back and easing it that in the middle of the turn it would cut out happened the same damn place five different turns so I break easy and I try not to put much pressure on the brakes and I you know am cautious making slower turns slowing down way back and it’s fine until the fuel light comes on. Iam beyond frustrated it has less then 100,000 miles and I’ve driven it a total of 6 whole years or so since 2012 I’ve already gotten two tickets for registration like I’m sure I can’t pass inspection if it decides to act up but I don’t have thousands to spend to try and guess at what the actual issue is so I went into autozone and explained everything all the issues and symptoms and we go outside and he opens the hood and asks me to start it so once turn it off wait a couple seconds after the stuff stops clicking and try it again almost putters our and comes right on and the guy said that he watch fuel come out my intake manifold and i need a fuel filter however I don’t right now have 268 for one because the fuel pump has to be done as well so maybe that is it or maybe it’s just another thing it isn’t right
